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Old 09-26-2013, 10:25 AM   #31
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I don't get it either. My guess is its a legal issue. They don't want to be liable for possibly putting in the wrong psi, so they go by what's printed as the max on the side of the tire.

I almost cried after driving home with E rated tires from Discounttire that were inflated to 45psi.
Thats nothing...my E rated tires were at 60 psi when I left...made a u turn and had them lower it to 27 psi.

The guy at Discount looked at me crazy....he asked "Are you sure?"

I asked him what he drove.....a honda accord.

Hes never driven in a 4x4 with over sized tires..never gone off road..

Its called "Ignorance". They dont know any better and just read whats on the tire.

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Old 09-26-2013, 05:18 PM   #32
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Tires are overinflated during shipment from the factory to prevent flat spotting while it sits on the lot.

The factory sticker is based on many factors, ride, handling, fuel economy, durability, and traction. The main reason for the 35psi is to prevent concerns for tread separation (remember Firestone and Ford Explorers?) in hot climates and high speeds. Also driving higher tire pressures are EPA Fuel Economy targets.

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Old 09-26-2013, 07:00 PM   #33
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thats nothing...my e rated tires were at 60 psi when i left...made a u turn and had them lower it to 27 psi. The guy at discount looked at me crazy....he asked "are you sure?" i asked him what he drove.....a honda accord. Hes never driven in a 4x4 with over sized tires..never gone off road.. Its called "ignorance". They dont know any better and just read whats on the tire.
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Old 09-26-2013, 07:17 PM   #34
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i got this from a post on another forum.

On the sidewall of the tire you will find the max load/pressure of the tire.

For an example I’ll use a tire rated at 2270 lbs @ 50 psi and a vehicle that weighs 4850 lbs.

Step 1 - Multiply the max load times 4. This is the maximum weight your four tires can safely carry.
2270 lbs * 4 = 9080 lbs

Step 2 - Divide the weight of the vehicle (placard on driver’s door jam) by the number you got in the first step. This is the percent of the max load you are actually carrying on the tires.
4850/9080 = 53%

Step 3 - Multiply the psi stated on the tire for max load by the percentage you got in step 2. This will give you an optimal pressure for you tire on the road.
50 psi * 53% = 27 psi

The chalk test and the math approach will usually give you very close answers.

These methods give you a start point for getting the psi that will give you even tire wear. Start at that point and go up/down a few lbs to get what you want. A few pounds more gives you better mpg. A few pounds down softens the ride more.
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Old 09-26-2013, 07:56 PM   #35
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I raced motocross in the late 60's through the late 70's.

I ain't bit@hin even a lil bit.

Back when Fox was just gettin started I paid top dollar for that system. Never heard of Bilstein before I bought my JK...Now I'm a rest of my life Bilstein user.
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Old 09-26-2013, 08:16 PM   #36
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i got this from a post on another forum.

On the sidewall of the tire you will find the max load/pressure of the tire.

For an example I’ll use a tire rated at 2270 lbs @ 50 psi and a vehicle that weighs 4850 lbs.

Step 1 - Multiply the max load times 4. This is the maximum weight your four tires can safely carry.
2270 lbs * 4 = 9080 lbs

Step 2 - Divide the weight of the vehicle (placard on driver’s door jam) by the number you got in the first step. This is the percent of the max load you are actually carrying on the tires.
4850/9080 = 53%

Step 3 - Multiply the psi stated on the tire for max load by the percentage you got in step 2. This will give you an optimal pressure for you tire on the road.
50 psi * 53% = 27 psi

The chalk test and the math approach will usually give you very close answers.

These methods give you a start point for getting the psi that will give you even tire wear. Start at that point and go up/down a few lbs to get what you want. A few pounds more gives you better mpg. A few pounds down softens the ride more.
Do I use the single or dual load on tire?
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Old 09-26-2013, 08:21 PM   #37
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Unless you have a dually Jeep you would need to use the single.
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Old 09-26-2013, 08:28 PM   #38
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Unless you have a dually Jeep you would need to use the single.
3195x4=12780
4900/12780=.383
.383x50=19.17. Seems low. Going to need a procal.
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Old 09-26-2013, 08:31 PM   #39
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I raced motocross in the late 60's through the late 70's.

I ain't bit@hin even a lil bit.

Back when Fox was just gettin started I paid top dollar for that system. Never heard of Bilstein before I bought my JK...Now I'm a rest of my life Bilstein user.
It is interesting that you draw that comparison. I raced motocross and flat track during that same era, and into the early 80's. My really good dirt machines had air adjustable forks, and adjustable rear springs and adjustable shocks. I can't understand why Jeepers resist the idea of putting on adjustable shocks like Rancho 9000's on their Wranglers. Using one fixed setting shock for city/highway/dirt/and rock crawling does not make sense to me. I'm glad to be able to tune my suspension for the conditions I am using my Jeep in. Tire pressure adjustment should be used for traction considerations, not a poor man's way of tuning ride quality and handling.
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Old 09-26-2013, 08:36 PM   #40
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It is interesting that you draw that comparison. I raced motocross and flat track during that same era, and into the early 80's. My really good dirt machines had air adjustable forks, and adjustable rear springs and adjustable shocks. I can't understand why Jeepers resist the idea of putting on adjustable shocks like Rancho 9000's on their Wranglers. Using one fixed setting shock for city/highway/dirt/and rock crawling does not make sense to me. I'm glad to be able to tune my suspension for the conditions I am using my Jeep in. Tire pressure adjustment should be used for traction considerations, not a poor man's way of tuning ride quality and handling.
I'm no shock expert and love the 9000's but shocks like the Bills and 7000's are self
adjusting. Think of a progressive rate or dual rate coil. Soft up top but bigger hits the coil stiffens up. Shocks change compression/dampening at different points of their stroke or shock applied to them. Not sure if this made any sense or if I even got it right..... Somebody can correct me if in wrong or not entirely accurate.
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Old 09-26-2013, 08:48 PM   #41
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I'm no shock expert and love the 9000's but shocks like the Bills and 7000's are self adjusting. Think of a progressive rate or dual rate coil. Soft up top but bigger hits the coil stiffens up. Shocks change compression/dampening at different points of their stroke or shock applied to them. Not sure if this made any sense or if I even got it right..... Somebody can correct me if in wrong or not entirely accurate.
This. Digressive valving. Mattt! Where the hell are ya!?! Lmao The bilsteins on the other hand come with the rod welded to the mono tube. Similar to a hard tail harley or solid piece of steel holding up the roof at a mall near you.
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Old 09-26-2013, 08:50 PM   #42
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This. Digressive valving. Mattt! Where the hell are ya!?! Lmao The bilsteins on the other hand come with the rod welded to the mono tube. Similar to a hard tail harley or solid piece of steel holding up the roof at a mall near you.
I just shot soda out my nose .... Thanks
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Old 09-26-2013, 08:58 PM   #43
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I just shot soda out my nose .... Thanks
Hahahaha your welcome!
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Old 09-26-2013, 09:07 PM   #44
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07 4 door Sahara. I run my 18's at 28 lbs. I adjust the pressure to being able to see a flat contact patch on the pavement. 28 seems to be the number on mine. Ride is acceptable, tire wear gets me about 50k on a set.
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Old 09-26-2013, 09:08 PM   #45
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I just shot soda out my nose .... Thanks
And I dribbled Fat Tire ale down my chin and into my collar thanks a lot!
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Old 09-26-2013, 09:11 PM   #46
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I did the math and my jkur with 255/80/17 BFG's KM2 ride like crap at 35psi I've been dropping pressure all week 2 psi at a time and I'm down to 28 psi the ride is much better I guess it's ok
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Old 09-26-2013, 09:24 PM   #47
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I did notice that in my jeep. Any one know how to get better mpg out of the 4.0L.
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Old 09-26-2013, 09:35 PM   #48
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I did notice that in my jeep. Any one know how to get better mpg out of the 4.0L.
Yea take it out and put in a 4 banger lol
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Old 09-26-2013, 09:43 PM   #49
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I did notice that in my jeep. Any one know how to get better mpg out of the 4.0L.
Private messaged you. Check your inbox :P

But generally changing driving style and/or gearing will help milage the most.
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Old 09-27-2013, 09:44 AM   #50
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Mopar Stage III

I put a Mopar Stage III lift on my 2013 JKU. It is basically a Teraflex Stage III kit with Fox shocks and bumpstops. I am running big KM2s for the tires and can honestly say, my Jeep feels better now than when it was stock. It is not bumpy on or off the road. I really believe the shocks and the bumpstops have a lot to do with it. No, it doesn't ride like a Cadillac but it rides better than a stock Jeep does.
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Old 09-30-2013, 03:56 PM   #51
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OK
I want to start this post with a comment: I am not an "hands on" guy like most of you here so......

I lowered the PSI in all the tires to 29 from 34 psi. All I got was a ride that didn't seem much different and a low tire pressure alarm.
The ride is not that bad at 34 psi so I guess I will stay there and look into some shocks mentioned here for Christmas.

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Old 09-30-2013, 06:14 PM   #52
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They "ride rough" for several reasons. First off the Jeep is a solid axle vehicle, way different then IFS type rigs. Meaning your tires are linked together and your going to feel more bumps.

Have you seen the springs on your Wrangler? Much beefier/ stiffer then say a lexus. Stock Wrangler shocks are marginal at best compared to a quality Bilstein, Fox, Rancho.

And if you run 37 psi, on stock 32 rubi tires then that's another issue. Try 30 psi..your ride qualiy and tire life will thank you... I didn't just read it some where on the internet,I put 30k on a set at 35 to 37 psi and the wear wasn't even...even with rotating every 5k.

The stock Wranger is awesome but there is a lot of room for improvement, and the right mods will make you smile. Cripe I could go on for hours but my Wrangler still rides beter then my old 82 civic wagon...lol
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Old 09-30-2013, 06:36 PM   #53
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Bear with me please...I have a '04 TJ with OME SL and JKS BL and am running 33"x12.5" x 15"s Duratracs at 26-28psi...and IMO it rides as well as the '12 JK Sport does...which is bone stock on factory tires and wheels. But our '14 Sahara JKU IMO rides as well as our '13 300 Awd.....and both of those are bone stock. Bottom line the Jeep Wrangler has come a long way in the last 10 years. My wife wants to go in any of the Jeeps, she hates the 300 ....it makes her back "hurt" from the angle of the seat leg height...only place she is comfortable is in the Jeeps.

Lets be honest those of us who really like the Jeeps are more forgiving of any "short comings"......
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Old 09-30-2013, 06:46 PM   #54
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Lets be honest those of us who really like the Jeeps are more forgiving of any "short comings"...... [/QUOTE]

Amen LOL.... but what about the low tire pressure???
from 29 to 30 psi won't shut them off correct???
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Old 09-30-2013, 06:48 PM   #55
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The Tj doesn't have TPS...and the other are set whatever Jeep called for....I do know the '12 Jk will come on when it gets cold enough and e will have to "air them up"
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Old 09-30-2013, 06:50 PM   #56
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Duh!!
I probably should have said...I just purchased a 2012 WU Sahara. I'll have to check the tire specs.....
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Old 09-30-2013, 06:53 PM   #57
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Duh!!
I probably should have said...I just purchased a 2012 WU Sahara. I'll have to check the tire specs.....
I think it ±5psi for sensors.....but don't quote me
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Old 09-30-2013, 07:14 PM   #58
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Why? Because some people don't think, don't use maintenance, and do crazy things with their vehicles.

Some owners believe tires are maintenance free objects and never check tire pressures until the tire goes flat. They put gas in the tank and they feel that should be the extent of the maintenance involvement with their autos.

Some people try to use their Wrangler to tow trailers as if they were rated for Class IV trailers or they'll put enough cargo inside that should require a 3/4 ton truck. Every so often, someone will ask here if they can do it, refusing to believe/heed the engineers who designed the Wrangler.

Other owners demand maximum MPG and will complain loudly to a tire dealer when a new set of tires delivers real or perceived lower mileage than the previous set. As a rule, higher pressures offer less rolling resistance and this is why they do it. Stop in at Discount Tire, Big O, Firestone, or Goodyear and ask a manager.
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Old 09-30-2013, 07:14 PM   #59
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I have a stock '13 JKUR. I just started messing with the tire pressure yesterday. They were set at 37 and I took them down to 32. It definitely makes a difference. It's not night and day, but you don't feel every little thing, or at least it's not as jarring. I'm planning on adding a 2 1/2" lift and 33" but that is probably a year away if I had to guess. Would adding a quality shock now make enough ride difference that it would make sense to do now?
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Old 09-30-2013, 07:37 PM   #60
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I went through many shocks before settling on my 7000's. Made all the difference in the world.

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