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Old 12-15-2012, 01:11 PM   #31
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perfect! didn't realize that's possible with a '12.. guess i should skip the aluminum diff covers, a?

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Old 12-16-2012, 01:27 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by mflint1513
I'm finally going to regear. 2012 JKU SportS, manual, 35s, currently with 3.73s. I'm havin issues with constantly having to downshift whenever I'm at highway speeds and towing is a painful experience. As I read and research, 4.56 gears bring me back to a stock driveline with a 4.1:1 final drive. Apparently this is optimal. Most guys say go 4.88 but they say that as thy don't have a lot of highway driving. So, final thoughts? any reason I should NOT go 4.56?highway driving to do.
4.56 sounds like a great choice for your needs but don't be fooled into thinking that it will not downshift on the highway. It's still a V6 and the power isn't great in the low to mid RPM range, it downshifts to get closer to the powerband. It won't downshift as often but it will still do it.

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Old 12-16-2012, 01:35 PM   #33
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It'll be me that downshifts, I have a manual. I don't doubt that I'll still have to shift but I won't be in third going up through some of the passes here. The lower diff ratio gets me into a higher rpm so like 2,500-2,700 in sixth. If you compare that to the torque and horsepower chart for the 3.6 it puts me in a good place at highway speeds.

I think overall I was looking for reasons to not go with this get range because its a little big "against the norm". Most guys will go with 4.88s with my setup. Other than the mechanical difference between the two (which isn't really good for my purpose), I'm not sure why to not do 4.56s. So I'm looking for things like gear whine, mechanical failure of this gear set vs another.
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Old 12-19-2012, 10:37 PM   #34
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So I got the Jeep back. With the new gears, it's great from a stop. It seems like it gave me some of the seat of he pants feel that I had in my TJ with the 4.0. The highway speeds will have to wait til tomorrow. So far, a good choice!
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Old 12-19-2012, 11:08 PM   #35
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So robbing your thread....
Has no one done 4.56s on an auto? Also have 3.21s but auto. Probably going 4.56s but don't trust the chart.
Interesting point on the warranty...but I can't stand it either. Painful on the road but now that I am on the trail frequently the problems become more apparent. Done too much now to trade her in. So gonna have to cross my fingers. And toes.
Back to you OP: please post your results after you've driven awhile!
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Old 12-19-2012, 11:11 PM   #36
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I'm 4:88's. kinda wish I went 5:13
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Old 12-19-2012, 11:12 PM   #37
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^I always recommend getting a feel from your dealer on how they feel about mods, but as someone else mentioned, most likely no one but you would know that you re-geared.
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Old 12-19-2012, 11:19 PM   #38
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I'm 4:88's. kinda wish I went 5:13
I get ya. Pretty sure my max is 4.88s on a 2012 though. Won't go bigger than 35s and don't want to turn my Jeep into a Honda. Not that there is anything wrong with a Honda. I once had a mean Del Sol.
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Old 12-20-2012, 01:08 AM   #39
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So robbing your thread....
Has no one done 4.56s on an auto? Also have 3.21s but auto. Probably going 4.56s but don't trust the chart.
Interesting point on the warranty...but I can't stand it either. Painful on the road but now that I am on the trail frequently the problems become more apparent. Done too much now to trade her in. So gonna have to cross my fingers. And toes.
Back to you OP: please post your results after you've driven awhile!
What year is your jeep? My mechanic recommended 5.13s (I think?) for an auto with 35s.
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Old 12-20-2012, 09:17 AM   #40
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What year is your jeep? My mechanic recommended 5.13s (I think?) for an auto with 35s.
For a 3.6 Pentastar with the 5 speed auto, 5.13 gears are too much unless you never drive on the highway or you are running 40" tires.

On my 2012 JKUR auto, I have 4.10 gears. I'm getting new axles with 4.56 gears installed next week. The 2012 JKUR auto came stock with 3.73 gears unless you upgraded to 4.10 gears from the factory.

Running a 4.56 gear and 37" tires puts the rpms about 130 rpm higher than where they were with 3.73 gears and stock 32" tires. If you had the optional 4.10 gears with the stock 32" tires, the rpms are about 95 rpm higher than running 4.56 gears with 37" tires.

For a 35" tire, 4.56 gears put the rpms about 160 higher than stock 4.10 gears and 450 rpms higher than if the JK came with the 3.73 gears.

IMO, 4.10 and 4.56 gears are a good choice for 35" tires. 4.56 gears work for 35" and 37" tires. If you never decide to go larger than a 37" tire or if you might downsize back to a 35" tire, there is no need to go for more than 4.56 gears, especially if you have a Rubicon 4:1 transfer case for offroading.

Regarding the warranty, my front D44 has been in the shop twice for a leaky oil seal that was covered under warranty. My JK has also been in the shop once for the CEL misfire on cylinder 6, but I'm not going to be held hostage by Chrysler if I want to mod my Jeep. After next week, nothing under my Jeep will be factory anyway except the rear rotors and calipers, transfer case, transmission, and engine.
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Old 12-20-2012, 11:25 AM   #41
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I didn't think you could get 4.10s from the factory except on a Rubicon. At least, I didn't have that option and it doesn't seem to be the case on the Jeep website.

4.56s do seem to work well with the 2012, auto, 35s setup. The guy that liked it had a 3.8 though. Not sure if that matters.
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Old 12-20-2012, 12:37 PM   #42
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For a 3.6 Pentastar with the 5 speed auto, 5.13 gears are too much unless you never drive on the highway or you are running 40" tires.

On my 2012 JKUR auto, I have 4.10 gears. I'm getting new axles with 4.56 gears installed next week. The 2012 JKUR auto came stock with 3.73 gears unless you upgraded to 4.10 gears from the factory.

Running a 4.56 gear and 37" tires puts the rpms about 130 rpm higher than where they were with 3.73 gears and stock 32" tires. If you had the optional 4.10 gears with the stock 32" tires, the rpms are about 95 rpm higher than running 4.56 gears with 37" tires.

For a 35" tire, 4.56 gears put the rpms about 160 higher than stock 4.10 gears and 450 rpms higher than if the JK came with the 3.73 gears.

IMO, 4.10 and 4.56 gears are a good choice for 35" tires. 4.56 gears work for 35" and 37" tires. If you never decide to go larger than a 37" tire or if you might downsize back to a 35" tire, there is no need to go for more than 4.56 gears, especially if you have a Rubicon 4:1 transfer case for offroading.

Regarding the warranty, my front D44 has been in the shop twice for a leaky oil seal that was covered under warranty. My JK has also been in the shop once for the CEL misfire on cylinder 6, but I'm not going to be held hostage by Chrysler if I want to mod my Jeep. After next week, nothing under my Jeep will be factory anyway except the rear rotors and calipers, transfer case, transmission, and engine.

Post up when you've got your 4.56s installed. Would you mind checking your RPMs at 40? I could deal with my 3.21s (maybe) but when I hit 40 mph it upshifts to 4th- at about 1200 RPMs. Feels like a tank.I drive mostly city- and this is my main driving speed. Fiddled with the Procal and called my dealer. No love. (I tried searching "mod friendly dealer" but nothing came up.
Strange.)
I am surprised you are gearing up with 4.10s. I haven't heard they were bad- but there is always room for improvement. Enjoy!
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Old 12-20-2012, 12:44 PM   #43
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Post up when you've got your 4.56s installed. Would you mind checking your RPMs at 40? I could deal with my 3.21s (maybe) but when I hit 40 mph it upshifts to 4th- at about 1200 RPMs. Feels like a tank.I drive mostly city- and this is my main driving speed. Fiddled with the Procal and called my dealer. No love. (I tried searching "mod friendly dealer" but nothing came up.
Strange.)
I am surprised you are gearing up with 4.10s. I haven't heard they were bad- but there is always room for improvement. Enjoy!
My axles with the 4.56 gears are being delivered today and will be installed shortly after Christmas. I'm changing gears because I'm going to a 37" tire when my 35" tires are worn out. I'm also changing from my Rugged Ridge wheels to ATX Slab beadlocks that weigh more. With the additional weight of the wheels and larger tires, plus heavier duty axles, I changed my gears to 4.56 to help move the weight. I could live with the 4.10 gearing with 35" tires if nothing else changed. I'll let you know how it works out.

The added bonus to the 4.56 gearing is that it works for the 35" tire if I decide not to stick with 37" tires. If I start getting a little crazier, I could do a 38" or 39" tire and the rpms with 4.56 gearing won't be any different than what it was with my 35" tires and 4.10 gears.
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Old 12-20-2012, 02:15 PM   #44
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^I always recommend getting a feel from your dealer on how they feel about mods, but as someone else mentioned, most likely no one but you would know that you re-geared.
just me, 4WDH, and anyone whom notices the wire exiting the front diff... oh well.. patients, or the lackthereof, definately has a price
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Old 12-20-2012, 02:23 PM   #45
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just me, 4WDH, and anyone whom notices the wire exiting the front diff... oh well.. patients, or the lackthereof, definately has a price
if you need lockers, then waiting 4 years for the warranty to end seems dumb. I don't get the idea of modding the jeep so much you will make it undriveable, but that you think regearing will the straw that breaks the camels back.

Besides, dealership techs arn't that smart. Unless you tell them its been modded, they probably wouldnt even notice an axle with a locker, because the jeep can come factory with it. Same thing for the gears, since jeeps dont all have the same gear ratio, that won't know it's been regeared unless they actually measure it.
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Old 12-21-2012, 12:25 PM   #46
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i'm going for it. i'm over stressing about it.. 3.21's aren't for me. going 4.10's + truetrac in the 44 and e-locker in the 30.. i don't necessarily need a locker, but the carrier needs replaced regardless and i want control over the steering interference. sticking w/ 32"s with no lift in sight.
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Old 12-21-2012, 12:27 PM   #47
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just me, 4WDH, and anyone whom notices the wire exiting the front diff... oh well.. patients, or the lackthereof, definately has a price
Jeeps with factory lockers have wires exiting the front diff so nothing unusual there.
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Old 12-21-2012, 12:32 PM   #48
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i took your advice SS.. talked with the service folks yesterday during a visit.. they didn't seem to care one way or another about said mods.. he said.. if you blow the rear, that's on you.. if the pentastar takes a dump.. that's still on us.
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Old 12-21-2012, 12:50 PM   #49
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i took your advice SS.. talked with the service folks yesterday during a visit.. they didn't seem to care one way or another about said mods.. he said.. if you blow the rear, that's on you.. if the pentastar takes a shit.. that's still on us.
Makes me wonder something...how long does the powertrain (eng, trans, t case, axles) go for on the 2012? Is it 5 years, 35k?
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Old 12-21-2012, 01:39 PM   #50
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i believe it's 5 years.. 50k.. or longer. i forget
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Old 12-21-2012, 03:03 PM   #51
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Yeah, gonna have to research.

Anyway, the new gears are great. I can stay in sixth gear and keep the cruise on without slowing down over a bump. Works great around town as well! Will post mpg numbers later.
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Old 12-21-2012, 06:39 PM   #52
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i took your advice SS.. talked with the service folks yesterday during a visit.. they didn't seem to care one way or another about said mods.. he said.. if you blow the rear, that's on you.. if the pentastar takes a dump.. that's still on us.
See, no worries. The ball is in your hands, better start running with it. LOL

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Makes me wonder something...how long does the powertrain (eng, trans, t case, axles) go for on the 2012? Is it 5 years, 35k?
5 YR/100K miles.
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Old 12-21-2012, 07:52 PM   #53
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Post up when you've got your 4.56s installed. Would you mind checking your RPMs at 40? I could deal with my 3.21s (maybe) but when I hit 40 mph it upshifts to 4th- at about 1200 RPMs. Feels like a tank.I drive mostly city- and this is my main driving speed. Fiddled with the Procal and called my dealer. No love. (I tried searching "mod friendly dealer" but nothing came up.
Strange.)
I am surprised you are gearing up with 4.10s. I haven't heard they were bad- but there is always room for improvement. Enjoy!
Santa came and left these in my garage. I should have an answer for you late next week. If you look close at the upper left side of the Dana 60 and the left side of the Dana 44 pumpkins, you will see 4.56 stamped on them.
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Old 12-22-2012, 04:08 PM   #54
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I'm wondering if that gear ratio is still gonna work for me if I ever upgrade to a Hemi.
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Old 12-23-2012, 03:56 PM   #55
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I'm wondering if that gear ratio is still gonna work for me if I ever upgrade to a Hemi.
The Dodge PowerWagon has a Hemi with 4.56 gears. I don't see why it wouldn't work.

If the 3.6 works, it should be even easier for the Hemi because it has more torque and horsepower. In fact, Chrysler is suppose to release a Hemi conversion for the 2012 JK auto anytime now and all it does is replace the torque converter in the existing transmission and adds the Hemi. One of the reasons that I opted for the Dana 60 in the rear was for the Hemi if I ever decided to do the Hemi conversion. The gearing should be fine.

With the 3.8 auto, the 4 speed transmission wasn't up to the task, so numerically higher gearing was still required or you had to swap out the transmission for a different one.
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Old 12-23-2012, 04:12 PM   #56
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[QUOTE=bo9roadking;3130934]Santa came and left these in my garage. I should have an answer for you late next week. If you look close at the upper left side of the Dana 60 and the left side of the Dana 44 pumpkins, you will see 4.56 stamped on them.
[QUOTE]

Well, paint me green!

What are you doing with you original axles? What kind of return do you get selling these sorta things. Running 35s with the 4.10s now and already thinking that spring may bring me 37s. Just trying to figure out my options...
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Old 12-23-2012, 04:58 PM   #57
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I'm wondering if that gear ratio is still gonna work for me if I ever upgrade to a Hemi.
I can't figure why they put a weak ass V6 in a Wrangler in the first place. I had a 4.7 V8 in my Ram and the wife has it in her commander. It's a great engine. A little gas thirsty, but the commander gets better mileage than my 09 Wrangler. I would have gladly paid 5-7K more for the satisfaction of having a V8 in place of all the other add on Junk that they easily charge 7 grand for. Maybe we wouldn't have to be swapping gears for every little mod we add. Never met a V6 that I liked.
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Old 12-23-2012, 07:09 PM   #58
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Well, paint me green!

What are you doing with you original axles? What kind of return do you get selling these sorta things. Running 35s with the 4.10s now and already thinking that spring may bring me 37s. Just trying to figure out my options...
I wasn't planning on hijacking this thread, but you asked. I'm going to sell my factory rubicon D44 axles with 4.10 gears and e-lockers that have about 14,000 miles on them. I'm not sure what I can get for them, so I have to do some checking. I'm going to wait until I get the new axles installed and everything is working good before I put them up for sale though.

The rubicon axles have Rock Krawler trackbar relocation brackets on both axles. The front trackbar bracket has a relocation hole for mounting the steering stabilizer above the tie rod for added clearance. The front axle is setup for the highsteer, so you can flip the drag link for better steering geometry on lifts that are 3" or higher. The only thing that the axles won't have on them is the brake rotors on the rear and the unit bearings on the front. I'm transferring those to the new axles.
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Old 12-26-2012, 03:35 PM   #59
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So Santa brought 4.56s for Christmas. I am a little worried about highway RPMs since I am in 305/70/17s but I don't think 4.10s aren't enough. Dont want to handicap myself later. The Jeepy bank needs to recover so I can buy a rear locker. Meantime I'll still be researching.
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Old 12-28-2012, 09:19 PM   #60
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Post up when you've got your 4.56s installed. Would you mind checking your RPMs at 40? I could deal with my 3.21s (maybe) but when I hit 40 mph it upshifts to 4th- at about 1200 RPMs. Feels like a tank.I drive mostly city- and this is my main driving speed. Fiddled with the Procal and called my dealer. No love. (I tried searching "mod friendly dealer" but nothing came up.
Strange.)
I am surprised you are gearing up with 4.10s. I haven't heard they were bad- but there is always room for improvement. Enjoy!
Took the Jeep out for about a 30 mile ride this evening with the 4.56 gears in it. It moves a little quicker off the line than it did with the 4.10 gears and considering that the new axles are more than twice as heavy as the old stock axles, I'm glad to see the Jeep is more peppy even with the additional weight. Since I'm still breaking in the ring/pinion gears, I have to take it easy for a while, but I expect I'll be happy with the 4.56 gears. At 65 mph, I was still in the upper green ECO range of the tach. From a dead stop, the Jeep didn't feel like it was struggling to get moving.

To answer your question about driving at 40 mph with 4.56 gears, I was doing about 1600 rpm in the top gear with my 35" tires. It is hard to judge exactly since the tach isn't precise, but the needle was slightly above the white line that marks 1500 rpm. I hope that helps with your decision on choosing 4.56 or 4.88 gears.

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