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Old 08-14-2010, 10:20 PM   #1
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Will I void my warranty?

I just picked up my 2010 Rubicon and want to do all maintenance myself. My question is will it void my warranty if I do my own oil changes and differential changes?

Thanks to all that reply.
Sam

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Old 08-14-2010, 10:30 PM   #2
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No. Keep a maintenance log.

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Old 08-14-2010, 11:03 PM   #3
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I have not looked in the jeep manual. Mainly because it is more of a "quick setup guide" but in my last jeep the salesman was sure to tell me that if I did my own work I must keep a log and receipts for consumables and parts. Then in the manual or the warranty booklet it said that warranty could not be denied based on the lack of maintenance records or receipts. As always, the better record keeping you do the less of a fight you may have on your hands when you make a warranty claim.
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Old 08-14-2010, 11:29 PM   #4
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As the others have said, you need to keep detailed records of everything to include receipts.
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Old 08-15-2010, 02:49 AM   #5
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Thank you all! And another question, I have heard that the Jeep JK 3.8 should have its first oil change around 500 miles. Then read it should be changed after the initial break in at 20 miles…. 20 miles? Well it’s to late for that I have 99 miles and now thinking about changing at 150-200 with K&N filter and regular 5-20w.

Does anyone have a recommendation to what weight to use? I have read that if you take your 3.8 in with clicking noise they use 5-30w, should I use the 5-30w for break in?
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Old 08-15-2010, 03:00 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2010 Rubicon Black View Post
Thank you all! And another question, I have heard that the Jeep JK 3.8 should have its first oil change around 500 miles. Then read it should be changed after the initial break in at 20 milesÖ. 20 miles? Well itís to late for that I have 99 miles and now thinking about changing at 150-200 with K&N filter and regular 5-20w.

Does anyone have a recommendation to what weight to use? I have read that if you take your 3.8 in with clicking noise they use 5-30w, should I use the 5-30w for break in?
20 miles??
Where'd you read that?

I did my first oil change at 3k and now will do them every 6k.
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Old 08-15-2010, 03:17 AM   #7
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The manual shows every 6,000. I literally just picked mine up and they said they would see me in 6,000 miles. (or when my hard top comes in)
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Old 08-15-2010, 03:39 AM   #8
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This is what I read for break in secrets!!!

Q: If break- in happens so quickly, why do you recommend using petroleum break- in oil for 1500 miles ??

A:
Because while about 80% of the ring sealing takes place in the first hour of running the engine,
the last 20% of the process takes a longer time. Street riding isn't a controlled environment, so most of the mileage may
not be in "ring loading mode". Synthetic oil is so slippery that it actually "arrests" the break in process before the rings can seal completely. I've had a few customers who switched to synthetic oil too soon, and the rings never sealed properly no matter how hard they rode. Taking a new engine apart to re - ring it is the last thing anyone wants to do, so I recommend a lot
of mileage before switching to synthetic. It's really a "better safe than sorry" situation.

Q: My bike comes with synthetic oil from the factory, what should I do ??

A:
I recommend changing the factory installed synthetic oil back to petroleum for the break-in period.

Q: What about the main and rod bearings, don't they break - in ??

A:
Actually, the operation of plain bearings doesn't involve metal to metal contact !! The shiny spots on used
bearings are caused from their contact with the crankshaft journals during start up after the engine has been sitting a while,
and the excess oil has drained off. This is the main reason for not revving up the engine when it's first started.

The subject of plain bearings is one of the most mysterious aspects of engines, and will be covered in a future issue
of Power News. In it, I'll reveal more information that fully explains the non-contact phenomenon.

Q: Why change the oil at 20 miles ?? Doesn't the oil pick up
screen catch the aluminum bits ???

A:
It's true that the screen stops the big pieces, but many areas of the engine aren't within the oil filtration system. The oil that is splashed around will circulate metal debris to the lubricated bearing surfaces. For example, transmission gears and their ball bearings are unprotected by the filtration system, and even the cam chain makes a perfect "conveyer belt" to
bring metal debris up into the cylinder head !!

A close examination of a new engine will reveal lots of aluminum deposits on steel parts. This aluminum coats and tightens
up the clearances of the parts, which creates a loss of power. Most of the time I spend "blueprinting"
an engine is actually inspecting every part and "de-aluminizing" them !!

I prefer to remove the oil pan and clean the aluminum bits out of a new engine out that way, but a $20 oil change
is an easy and inexpensive way to flush the initial particles that come loose in the first miles.

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Old 08-15-2010, 03:42 AM   #9
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I personally will change the oil myself soon and put a magnetic drain plug in with a good quality oil filter. (I picked up the K&N filters for 3 for $41 bucks) but that is what a oil change would cost anyways so if your going to do it then do it right! lol that’s what I am going to do, it can’t hurt.
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Old 08-15-2010, 03:46 AM   #10
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The above are recommendations by a moto GP Tec that states this is the way all 4 stroke engines should be broken in.
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Old 08-15-2010, 03:47 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2010 Rubicon Black View Post
This is what I read for break in secrets!!!

Q: If break- in happens so quickly, why do you recommend using petroleum break- in oil for 1500 miles ??

A:
Because while about 80% of the ring sealing takes place in the first hour of running the engine,
the last 20% of the process takes a longer time. Street riding isn't a controlled environment, so most of the mileage may
not be in "ring loading mode". Synthetic oil is so slippery that it actually "arrests" the break in process before the rings can seal completely. I've had a few customers who switched to synthetic oil too soon, and the rings never sealed properly no matter how hard they rode. Taking a new engine apart to re - ring it is the last thing anyone wants to do, so I recommend a lot
of mileage before switching to synthetic. It's really a "better safe than sorry" situation.

Q: My bike comes with synthetic oil from the factory, what should I do ??

A:
I recommend changing the factory installed synthetic oil back to petroleum for the break-in period.

Q: What about the main and rod bearings, don't they break - in ??

A:
Actually, the operation of plain bearings doesn't involve metal to metal contact !! The shiny spots on used
bearings are caused from their contact with the crankshaft journals during start up after the engine has been sitting a while,
and the excess oil has drained off. This is the main reason for not revving up the engine when it's first started.

The subject of plain bearings is one of the most mysterious aspects of engines, and will be covered in a future issue
of Power News. In it, I'll reveal more information that fully explains the non-contact phenomenon.

Q: Why change the oil at 20 miles ?? Doesn't the oil pick up
screen catch the aluminum bits ???

A:
It's true that the screen stops the big pieces, but many areas of the engine aren't within the oil filtration system. The oil that is splashed around will circulate metal debris to the lubricated bearing surfaces. For example, transmission gears and their ball bearings are unprotected by the filtration system, and even the cam chain makes a perfect "conveyer belt" to
bring metal debris up into the cylinder head !!

A close examination of a new engine will reveal lots of aluminum deposits on steel parts. This aluminum coats and tightens
up the clearances of the parts, which creates a loss of power. Most of the time I spend "blueprinting"
an engine is actually inspecting every part and "de-aluminizing" them !!

I prefer to remove the oil pan and clean the aluminum bits out of a new engine out that way, but a $20 oil change
is an easy and inexpensive way to flush the initial particles that come loose in the first miles.

Those question/answers are in reference to motorcycle engines....
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Old 08-15-2010, 03:56 AM   #12
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Yes they are recommendations by a Moto GP Tec, but he also states that all 4 stroke engines should be broken in this way…

Either way all answers sound good to me, the initial break in does leave metal peaces in the engine and probable should be removed asap.
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Old 08-15-2010, 06:26 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2010 Rubicon Black View Post
I personally will change the oil myself soon and put a magnetic drain plug in with a good quality oil filter. (I picked up the K&N filters for 3 for $41 bucks) but that is what a oil change would cost anyways so if your going to do it then do it right! lol thatís what I am going to do, it canít hurt.
You can't hurt anything by changing oil frequently, if you feel it needs it go ahead. I change mine every 3k-3.5k and use syn. I don't need to change it that often, but I like to.
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Old 08-15-2010, 08:01 AM   #14
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Did my first at 3,000 and will do the second at 6,000 and then every 6,000 thereafter. Using Mobile 1 suplied by the dealer for around $40.
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Old 08-15-2010, 09:46 AM   #15
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So, is everyone in agreement, switch to synthetic after 6,ooo Km .. .. or is that 6,000 miles?

I am only a few kilometers from 6,000 .. and thinking about getting it done next week.
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Old 08-15-2010, 09:54 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2010 Rubicon Black View Post
Thank you all! And another question, I have heard that the Jeep JK 3.8 should have its first oil change around 500 miles. Then read it should be changed after the initial break in at 20 milesÖ. 20 miles? Well itís to late for that I have 99 miles and now thinking about changing at 150-200 with K&N filter and regular 5-20w.

Does anyone have a recommendation to what weight to use? I have read that if you take your 3.8 in with clicking noise they use 5-30w, should I use the 5-30w for break in?
Firget what you "heard". All the information is in your manual. Your manual is on the DVD. You have to use a data search to find it. You can also get a free .pdf copy at www.jeep.com.
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Old 08-15-2010, 10:18 AM   #17
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Buy your filters from the dealership,and keep your receipts.
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Old 08-15-2010, 11:36 AM   #18
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Buy your filters from the dealership,and keep your receipts.
Neither is necessary. All you need is a log.
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Old 08-15-2010, 12:03 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by Islander902 View Post
So, is everyone in agreement, switch to synthetic after 6,ooo Km .. .. or is that 6,000 miles?

I am only a few kilometers from 6,000 .. and thinking about getting it done next week.
I switched to synthetic at the second oil change ~6000 miles.
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Old 08-15-2010, 01:08 PM   #20
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Well, Thank you all for your responses... 3k then every 6k after that? Roger that!
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Old 08-15-2010, 01:20 PM   #21
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[QUOTE=ColdSRT;725130I have not looked in the jeep manual. Mainly because it is more of a "quick setup guide" but in my last jeep the salesman was sure to tell me that if I did my own work I must keep a log and receipts for consumables and parts. Then in the manual or the warranty booklet it said that warranty could not be denied based on the lack of maintenance records or receipts. As always, the better record keeping you do the less of a fight you may have on your hands when you make a warranty claim.[/QUOTE]

^^^ THIS!^^^
it's what I was told too.
Get a file folder, keep receipts and a written record.
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Old 08-15-2010, 02:52 PM   #22
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Synthetic at 3200 miles?

Quote:
Originally Posted by pdubois64 View Post
I switched to synthetic at the second oil change ~6000 miles.
I'm at 3200 miles and went to Autozone to get oil and filter. They had a killer deal on Mobil 1 oil (5 qts) and Mobil 1 oil filter for $35, so I bought 10 qts of Mobil 1 5W-20 and two Mobil 1 filters and also got two extra qts of oil to make up the 6 qt difference.

My question is: What is the consensus on changing to full synthetic at 3200 miles?

The owner's manual (pg 450) does not have any comments about when it is acceptable to change to synthetic, only that you always need to stick to the recommended change interval and specifications.
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Old 08-15-2010, 04:10 PM   #23
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I'm at 3200 miles and went to Autozone to get oil and filter. They had a killer deal on Mobil 1 oil (5 qts) and Mobil 1 oil filter for $35, so I bought 10 qts of Mobil 1 5W-20 and two Mobil 1 filters and also got two extra qts of oil to make up the 6 qt difference.

My question is: What is the consensus on changing to full synthetic at 3200 miles?

The owner's manual (pg 450) does not have any comments about when it is acceptable to change to synthetic, only that you always need to stick to the recommended change interval and specifications.
I probably would have switched at the first change, but I got the first one free at the dealer and they wouldn't have given me synthetic for the free change. On my Charger I went to synthetic at the first change and have had no issues.
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Old 08-15-2010, 07:50 PM   #24
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Note to self: make sure that I remove the old oil filter gasket from the engine before installing new filter.

Other than that this wrangler is the easiest oil change I have ever done. Am I correct in assuming that the reason such a small engine holds so much oil is because of the unusual sustained attitudes that a jeep can get in when off roading?

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