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Old 11-12-2011, 07:58 PM   #1
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wiring--add lights

Hi...Installing additional driving light 2011, JKU 4dr Sport
Looked in fuse box BUT couldn"t find a spare jack that was power only on acc.
Looking for a relay control hot tap that goes dead with the key turned off...i.e. Acc. Help

Ran into deer @ 60+MPH on free way...Headlights didn't get the job done. Pleasantly surprised how little damage, Front bumper cover only, and how well the Jeep handled the running over it with the right front tire, very stable!!!

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Old 11-12-2011, 09:30 PM   #2
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Most lights come with a wiring kit that includes a relay. connect that relay directly to the battery. There is no need to connect anything to the fuse box.

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Old 11-12-2011, 10:16 PM   #3
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The power outlet/cigarette lighter is switched with the ignition. Try tapping that.
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Old 11-12-2011, 10:18 PM   #4
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I power all of my light switches from acc fuse. On the 2012 in the M8 - M11 area there are usually some empty slots run off the acc - unless you have all the options on your Jeep.
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Old 11-12-2011, 10:36 PM   #5
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Get a fuse tap and do as mikekeeper said. If you don't have ALL the options, there are empty slots for seat heaters, etc. Just find something you don't have on your jeep that is switched.
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Old 11-12-2011, 10:53 PM   #6
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Additional lighting is as mentioned before usually powered directly from the battery through a relay operated from the high beam circuit. If not overly electrically knowledgeable, there are aftermarket wiring kits available that simply plug in. You remove the plug on the back of the headlight and plug the new loom onto it, then the original plug connects to a socket on the new wiring kit.

Very simple!
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Old 11-12-2011, 11:00 PM   #7
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This guy's....fuse tape it shall be
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Old 11-13-2011, 06:37 AM   #8
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SeaComms, do you have a source, or a name for the aftermarket kit? Thanks
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Old 11-13-2011, 06:46 AM   #9
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Glad you didn't get much damage from the deer.

Just started this myself yesterday. Got a painless wiring kit installed, but the A-Pillar switch pod from Rugged Ridge was for 2007 - 2010, the 2011 has a different dash and color (gray not black) so I picked up some simple rocker switches and I'll install myself above the mirror. I'd already bought the supplies to do it all myself, otherwise I might have invested in a SPOD, 4x4 SPOD Since 2005 - The ORIGINAL JEEP Over The Windshield Switch Console - Jeep Power Distribution System.

PM me if you'd like pictures of what I've done to get my lights going. Should have the lights installed by the end of the day. I spent more freaking time trying to route the wiring through the same path that I took for the CB wiring. Should have just pulled the CB wiring out and tapped the painless fuse box for CB power.
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Old 11-13-2011, 12:03 PM   #10
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I should have stated above that the fusetap is used to power the switch only, you still need to run a power wire to a relay to power the lights.
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Old 11-13-2011, 12:58 PM   #11
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Quote:
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SeaComms, do you have a source, or a name for the aftermarket kit? Thanks
Painless wiring harnesses. Any decent light kit should come with a wiring harness and relay.
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Old 11-13-2011, 01:41 PM   #12
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Yea my Hellas came with the wiring harness and relay, I was looking into the plug for the head light high beam tap, don't like the idea of cutting the factory wires.

From Sea Comms:
"You remove the plug on the back of the headlight and plug the new loom onto it, then the original plug connects to a socket on the new wiring kit."
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Old 11-13-2011, 03:35 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by 45 RPM-ACP View Post
Pleasantly surprised how little damage, Front bumper cover only, and how well the Jeep handled the running over it with the right front tire, very stable!!!
Best review of mowing down a critter I've ever heard.
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Old 11-19-2011, 09:37 AM   #14
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Where did you guys run your wires through the firewall? I don't see any openings under the drivers side dash.
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Old 11-19-2011, 09:59 AM   #15
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Where did you guys run your wires through the firewall? I don't see any openings under the drivers side dash.
Open the hood, drivers side, above the master cylinder and right below the large wiring loom...there's a rubber plug, make a hole and push the wires through.
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Old 11-19-2011, 10:55 AM   #16
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Found it, thanks.
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Old 11-19-2011, 11:07 AM   #17
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Here's a simple diagram on how to wire fog lights using a Bosh Relay...I would use a 30 amp relay.
http://www.classictruckshop.com/club...h/foglites.htm
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Old 11-22-2011, 05:35 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by krutj

Open the hood, drivers side, above the master cylinder and right below the large wiring loom...there's a rubber plug, make a hole and push the wires through.
Awesome jumped on here just to find this info. My kit did not come with a relay though. What's it do?
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Old 11-22-2011, 05:44 PM   #19
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I have mine wired directly to the battery using an inline fuse. I wanted the light to work without the key 'on'. I'm new at this but is there a downside to this way?

I have a relay with the wiring kit but figured a 20A inline would protect the expensive stuff ok.......I trust this is a safe option.
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Old 11-22-2011, 06:00 PM   #20
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Angry YOu will not believe this.........

Called my 4x4 shop to get a quote on installing "rear" lights as the stock backup lightes suck!

1. They quoted 2 - 3 hrs labor at $60 per hour

I will learn to do this MYSELF and save $120- $180
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Old 11-22-2011, 08:19 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cu in oz View Post
I have mine wired directly to the battery using an inline fuse. I wanted the light to work without the key 'on'. I'm new at this but is there a downside to this way?

I have a relay with the wiring kit but figured a 20A inline would protect the expensive stuff ok.......I trust this is a safe option.
The only problems are...
1. If not using a relay, the same amps that your lights pull is also going through your switch, which will shorten it's life and possibly cause a short unless it's rated for those amps.

2. Another purpose for a relay is to keep the 'high amp' connections under the hood and out of the cab. A trigger wire to the switch is of much lower amperage. If there is a short, you don't want it inside the cab.
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Old 11-22-2011, 09:04 PM   #22
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The only problems are...
1. If not using a relay, the same amps that your lights pull is also going through your switch, which will shorten it's life and possibly cause a short unless it's rated for those amps.

2. Another purpose for a relay is to keep the 'high amp' connections under the hood and out of the cab. A trigger wire to the switch is of much lower amperage. If there is a short, you don't want it inside the cab.
And I would add that with all the power going through the switch it will reduce voltage going to the lights...resulting in dimmer lights.
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Old 11-23-2011, 02:44 AM   #23
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OK...a couple of questions and a switch location solution...

I plan to install some auxilliary LED lighting both inside the Jeep and outside. They take VERY low current...so, I plan to run the wires directly from switches wired into the dash accessory outlet (which is switched to the ignition switch, so it doesn't stay on after the key is removed)...

So...running wire is not a problem, especially for low-current LEDs...but, where to put the switches???

Here's the big question...There are some 'dummy' plugs on the lower bar of switches on the dash (where the Rubicon has the sway bar disconnect button etc)...there's at least 3 spare spots...on my Sahara...
So...anybody ever tried to get factory push switches to install in the dummy plug spots for auxilliary equipment?...(I presume they are MOPAR parts...)

Here's another question...I'm not particulary enthusiastic about the DRIVING LIGHTS being switched by PULLING out the end of the light stalk...doesn't seem too durable (or intuitive!) to me ...I'm thinking of putting a proper switch in one of those 'dummy' plugs...and run it into the stock relay...just gotta find the RIGHT WIRE in the maze of wires coming from the 'multi-purpose' stalk!!!

If you ask me...it would have made more sense to spread the functions of stuff like the driving lights out...onto separate dash switches...Comments???

Comments written in previous post regarding the stock backup lights being rather DIM...so true...I'm going to put auxilliary LED backup lights in series with the stock lamps...I don't think any replacement lamp in the stock light fixture would make much of a difference...

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Old 11-23-2011, 06:53 AM   #24
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My switches are rated at 20 AMPS. I hope this is ok. I'll see about a better way to wire. I just wanted to get it doen yesterday quickly. Buyt 20 AMP (I would think) should be ok........thoughts?
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Old 11-23-2011, 07:38 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by willee51 View Post
Called my 4x4 shop to get a quote on installing "rear" lights as the stock backup lightes suck!

1. They quoted 2 - 3 hrs labor at $60 per hour

I will learn to do this MYSELF and save $120- $180
Here's what I did willee51....maybe $40 in material..

Recessed rear bumper light install - JeepForum.com
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Old 11-23-2011, 03:57 PM   #26
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Is the bumper cover, held on with the same,..."push screws" type fasteners as the front bumper cover?
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Old 11-23-2011, 04:02 PM   #27
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Is the bumper cover, held on with the same,..."push screws" type fasteners as the front bumper cover?
The bumper skins have brass inserts and bolts, accessed from the backside.

A total of 4 if I remember correctly....
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Old 11-23-2011, 04:07 PM   #28
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Spend some money, getta foolproof/failproof/trouble free sPOD system-





Wanna save money, doit yourself, wanna stick switchs all over your dash ?

Although I've seen some pretty good "A" frame pods--

Good luck

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Old 11-23-2011, 04:15 PM   #29
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My switches are rated at 20 AMPS. I hope this is ok. I'll see about a better way to wire. I just wanted to get it doen yesterday quickly. Buyt 20 AMP (I would think) should be ok........thoughts?
Its not a matter of what your switch is rated at...there is a reason that they provide a relay with aftermarket fog lights, refer to post 21 & 22.
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Old 11-23-2011, 05:13 PM   #30
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Its not a matter of what your switch is rated at...there is a reason that they provide a relay with aftermarket fog lights, refer to post 21 & 22.
X-2....direct wiring is a bad idea

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