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Old 08-06-2013, 09:18 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ahsumtoy View Post
1) Put a 2 1/2' to 3 1/2" lift on it
2) Put on some nice KM2's 35"
3) Put on some nice wheels (black)
4) Put on some Rock Sliders
5) Upgrade the tire carrier
6) Tint the windows
7) Change out the entire sterio system
8) Put on some better lights
9) Put on Mopar Hood Locks that use your original key
10) Put on some hinge locks
11) Put on some grab handles for back seats
12) Get a Superchip flashcal
At the risk of opening up a huge can of worms.... Do you have a recommendation as to the lift?
2) 35's? why not 37's? (just curious)
3) agreed
4) 10A has rock sliders (I think they are fine unless you know something that I don't and trust me I don't know everything LOL)
5) agreed
6) not a priority but I might
7) Could care less about the stereo
8) agreed but not sure if it is a priority
9) agreed that I need better hood latches not sure about the Mopar's though
10) actually never considered hinge locks... Are Wrangler doors really being stolen that often?
11) 10A came with 4 grab handles but you are right I am going to get the Welcome Distributing set as soon as possible
12) Agreed I just wish it did some type of performance upgrade.

Thanks

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Old 08-06-2013, 09:32 PM   #32
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The way I did mine was to just make a list of everything I wanted to do and then break it up in logical chunks as funds allowed. Do the big ticket stuff first. Pick away at the little stuff between now and the next big chunk. The front axle needs to be beefed up. Its not that much more to go with a prorock 44 compared to trussing/sleeving/gussetting. Especially if you resell your stock housing. Get the axle squared away, the lift, the wheels, the tires, the driveshafts, the axle shafts, and go from there. To cut the few grand out of your current list, go with the gamechanger lite and skip the rear driveshaft. That saves a couple grand. You should be able to get a zeon 10-s for 1100ish. Skip the skids for now or go with something cheaper for now. That gets you close to budget.

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Old 08-06-2013, 09:35 PM   #33
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↑↑ I did my build the exact opposite. Soooo many ways to go about it. I feel sorry for the OP if he has a hard time making his mind up about things like this.
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Old 08-06-2013, 09:39 PM   #34
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Lift, rims, tires, bumpers, winch and skid plates
This.
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Old 08-06-2013, 09:41 PM   #35
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Prorock44, lift, rcv's in the front, chromoly rear shafts, driveshafts front and rear, wheels, tires. That should be a good start.
I would never recommend anyone run RCV shafts. Hell, even the big boys I know running D60 front and D80 rears don't run RCV shafts for one reason. If you run RCV shafts (which are basically bulletproof) you are moving your weakpoint to your R&P. Id rather replace a broken shaft than a r&p. Chromolly shafts and call it a day.
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Old 08-06-2013, 09:42 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by Jstraw View Post
I just don't get why people buy rubicons just to upgrade them??? Seems like a waste of money! Especially the 10a... I like the way stock rubicons look anyhow, too much beef looks like sheet!

If I were you, with a 10a and 10k, I would put a RIPP supercharger on that pentastar, sleeve and gusset the Dana 44's, and a snorkel. Plain and simple!
So you would throw your drivetrain warranty out the window on a brand new Jeep? To each their own I guess.
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Old 08-06-2013, 09:44 PM   #37
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I did warn zeon 10s 1300
Winch plate and centering plate 300
Sector 55 thimble 150
35" tires 1500
Rims 1000
Teraflex tire carrier and hinge 700
Teraflex rock sliders (needed a step for wife) 600
Teraflex 2.5 with 1" spacers (free from teraflex since there lift only raises a 10a by about .5") 600
Bilsteins all around 500
Trektop nx 650
Teraflex monster trac bar 200
Flash cal 150
Bestop floor mats front to back 300
Cold air intake 350
Gibson exhaust 500
Offroad lights and mounts 300
Wheel spacers 200
Red top battery 200.
That puts me at about 9500 now. Damn hadent realized I was that far in hahaha. I love it though. Also made probably 2000 back selling some of the stock stuff.
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Old 08-06-2013, 09:48 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by CPT_D View Post
I am looking into the Game Changer but here is the problem I'm running into... Like the consensus I think lift, wheels, tires, wench, skids, truss and gussets but when I do the math... it doesn't work out...

Game changer $4K (plus a case of Beer for my club friends to help install it..)
37's ~ $2200
Wheels $750-2100 (non beadlock vs. beadlock)
Artec axle truss $250 + $100
River Raider skids $1200
Warn Zeon 10s with mount and hoop $1800
Let's not even talk about tube fenders... (the set from MetalCloak will run me $1650)
Tom Woods drive shafts ~$1300
Gears $800
Lets see... All that (the cheapest way) $14050, if I did the beadlocks then I'm looking at $15500

So is there something I can cut? or go with a different lift?
This is the reason I started this thread, there are so many ways to skin this cat that it's extremely difficult to come up with the best solution. I'm sure someone here has done something similar as I'm sure not everyone has an unlimited budget.

With all that said I will likely get another $10K after April to do with as I please on the Jeep.

BTW JEEP = Paid in full
Don't piss your money away on river raider skids. Get the evo protek system and save yourself $1000.
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Old 08-06-2013, 09:59 PM   #39
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I would never recommend anyone run RCV shafts. Hell, even the big boys I know running D60 front and D80 rears don't run RCV shafts for one reason. If you run RCV shafts (which are basically bulletproof) you are moving your weakpoint to your R&P. Id rather replace a broken shaft than a r&p. Chromolly shafts and call it a day.
Actually the carrier if stock is likely to go first or the ball joints will for sure if you still have the stock ones. If you run RCVs and 1310 U joints none of this matters anyways.

The"big boys" I know personally that don't run RCVs just don't want to drop the coin on them, especially since a 60 CM shaft is so strong and way cheaper. Along the same thought processes they are way overkill for most folks with JKs, unless you find yourself putting your axle in a bind with your wheels turned full stop a lot since the RCVs don't have U joints that will bind up.

Saying no one should run them is a little weird though.
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Old 08-06-2013, 10:04 PM   #40
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I have to save I have a keeper, I do good by here and she does good by me. Anyway we wheel as a family so to her it's an investment in family time.
You do have a keeper. I am really glad that y'all wheel together, as it is a great way to bond as a family. Happy wheeling.
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Old 08-06-2013, 10:09 PM   #41
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Don't piss your money away on river raider skids. Get the evo protek system and save yourself $1000.
Apples to oranges since one covers way more then the other
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Old 08-06-2013, 10:11 PM   #42
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Actually the carrier if stock is likely to go first or the ball joints will for sure if you still have the stock ones. If you run RCVs and 1310 U joints none of this matters anyways.

The"big boys" I know personally that don't run RCVs just don't want to drop the coin on them, especially since a 60 CM shaft is so strong and way cheaper. Along the same thought processes they are way overkill for most folks with JKs, unless you find yourself putting your axle in a bind with your wheels turned full stop a lot since the RCVs don't have U joints that will bind up.

Saying no one should run them is a little weird though.
Its not weird. Its simple physics, and applies to Jeeps, to race cars, to everything. All moving parts must have a weakpoint. This is true in Jeeps just like it's true in sports cars. You cannot eliminate a weakpoint, you can simply move it to another point. In the JK, it's the half circle C clips. Replace those with full circle, it moves to the axles. Strengthen the axles, it moves to the R&P. Strengthen the R&P and it moves to the driveshaft. Fix that, and it moves to the transmission. The goal is to have a weakpoint YOU want. An axle is much easier to swap out on a trail than a r&p. Furthermore, my advice was geared to the OP, who obviously isn't fully aware of axle strength. Most guys that I know that would think about running RCV shafts wouldn't make a thread like this (not that there is anything wrong with the thread, just saying they are usually fully versed in offroad tech.) I guess I should have clarified that my "no one" meant regular weekend wheeling joes. If you have a dedicated rig with 60K in drivetrain mods, then yes, you can think about running RCV shafts. Thats just my opinion.
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Old 08-06-2013, 10:16 PM   #43
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Sell the JK, and use that money plus the 10 grand to build a TJ.


Okay so you don't want to do that.

Go take some welding classes and pick up a welder and other basic tools.

Fabricate to your liking until you run out of money. I'd start with a quality suspension system, decide if you're sticking with shocks/springs or want to move to COs or ORIs etc, then build all new arms, fix the suspension geometry and figure out a ride height whatever tires you want to run eventually. Keep learning and building.


Or just overpay on a bunch of bolt on stuff, that works too.
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Old 08-06-2013, 10:17 PM   #44
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Apples to oranges since one covers way more then the other
Way more is a stretch. It is a redundant system. I have seen the OEM gas tank skids take beatings that most wouldn't even come close to doing, and they held up fine. It also covers the oil, trans, and transfer case. The evo covers the weakpoints without wasting money on skids not needed (like the gas tank skid.) If you think replacing the OEM transfer case skid and gas tank skid (which are perfectly fine) is worth $900 over the Evo system, by all means. I was giving him an honest opinion, and nothing more. The oil changes on the RR system are very messy, and I have seen nightmare cases in regards to RR customer service, even when something is 100% their fault. I have also heard they cause a lot of heat to be retained, since they envelope components, not to mention, can keep leaks hidden.

Plenty of stories of RR skids bashing the transfer case.



Factory skids can take a lot more abuse than people give them credit for.

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Old 08-06-2013, 10:53 PM   #45
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Its not weird. Its simple physics, and applies to Jeeps, to race cars, to everything. All moving parts must have a weakpoint. This is true in Jeeps just like it's true in sports cars. You cannot eliminate a weakpoint, you can simply move it to another point. In the JK, it's the half circle C clips. Replace those with full circle, it moves to the axles. Strengthen the axles, it moves to the R&P. Strengthen the R&P and it moves to the driveshaft. Fix that, and it moves to the transmission. The goal is to have a weakpoint YOU want. An axle is much easier to swap out on a trail than a r&p. Furthermore, my advice was geared to the OP, who obviously isn't fully aware of axle strength. Most guys that I know that would think about running RCV shafts wouldn't make a thread like this (not that there is anything wrong with the thread, just saying they are usually fully versed in offroad tech.) I guess I should have clarified that my "no one" meant regular weekend wheeling joes. If you have a dedicated rig with 60K in drivetrain mods, then yes, you can think about running RCV shafts. Thats just my opinion.
Exactly why I brought up 1310 drive shafts. Personally I would rather have RCV shafts and chang a U joint on the trail then change an axle shaft any day. Takes every bit of 30 mins to drop a shaft tap a new one in and bolt the shaft back up. Spare U joints take up a lot less space also. But if I only had a 10k budget I wouldn't even think about RCVs.
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Old 08-06-2013, 10:54 PM   #46
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Way more is a stretch. It is a redundant system. I have seen the OEM gas tank skids take beatings that most wouldn't even come close to doing, and they held up fine. It also covers the oil, trans, and transfer case. The evo covers the weakpoints without wasting money on skids not needed (like the gas tank skid.) If you think replacing the OEM transfer case skid and gas tank skid (which are perfectly fine) is worth $900 over the Evo system, by all means. I was giving him an honest opinion, and nothing more. The oil changes on the RR system are very messy, and I have seen nightmare cases in regards to RR customer service, even when something is 100% their fault. I have also heard they cause a lot of heat to be retained, since they envelope components, not to mention, can keep leaks hidden.

Plenty of stories of RR skids bashing the transfer case.

Factory skids can take a lot more abuse than people give them credit for.
HaHa a lot better post then just "don't piss your money away"
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Old 08-06-2013, 11:29 PM   #47
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Exactly why I brought up 1310 drive shafts. Personally I would rather have RCV shafts and chang a U joint on the trail then change an axle shaft any day. Takes every bit of 30 mins to drop a shaft tap a new one in and bolt the shaft back up. Spare U joints take up a lot less space also. But if I only had a 10k budget I wouldn't even think about RCVs.
Fair enough. However, driveshafts are after the r&p...my understanding is that the r&p will grenade first no?
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Old 08-06-2013, 11:32 PM   #48
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HaHa a lot better post then just "don't piss your money away"
There are a lot of manufacturers out there producing overpriced parts that underdeliver. I have bought some of them, and regretted it. I didn't want the OP to make a mistake, an expensive mistake he'll regret. I generally speak frankly when it comes to companies taking advantage of unsuspecting buyers, and I guess sometimes this "frankness" doesn't translate well on forums, so apologies for any misunderstandings.
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Old 08-06-2013, 11:39 PM   #49
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Fair enough. However, driveshafts are after the r&p...my understanding is that the r&p will grenade first no?
No the whole driveline is in a bind so the weakest point will(or should but not allways thought, strange things happen) give first no mater where it is.
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Old 08-07-2013, 12:13 AM   #50
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I'd wait on 1200$ worth of skids. Use the stock ones and get the ones stock doesnt cover. When your stockers are beat to crap then get new ones.

Also you can do adams drive shafts for under 800$ for both.

Depending on the trails you do the rock rails can be better or worse. They tuck tight into the body which is good for squeezing thru a tight spot but the ones that stick out just a ways can also keep some nasty stuff away from the jeep.
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Old 08-07-2013, 06:57 AM   #51
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I'd wait on 1200$ worth of skids. Use the stock ones and get the ones stock doesnt cover. When your stockers are beat to crap then get new ones.

Also you can do adams drive shafts for under 800$ for both.

Depending on the trails you do the rock rails can be better or worse. They tuck tight into the body which is good for squeezing thru a tight spot but the ones that stick out just a ways can also keep some nasty stuff away from the jeep.
Good point and I do like the Poison Spider and MetalCloak ones better...
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Old 08-07-2013, 07:11 AM   #52
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Old 08-07-2013, 11:25 AM   #53
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So you would throw your drivetrain warranty out the window on a brand new Jeep? To each their own I guess.
Just putting a big lift and tires on can throw the drivetrain warranty out the window. Once that lift affects pinion angles then it all can be traced to the transmission and the engine. Those big heavy wheels can cause the tranny and engine to work out of their designed specs. Do I agree? No, but your choice is accept it or fight it in court. Either way Chrysler doesn't have to do the work until a judge tells them to.

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