I've not really looked at removing the front bumper yet but plan on ordering the Poison Spyder Brawler lite and when you mention removing the crash bar, just how much trouble is that? Not looking to spend an entire weekend doing this install. And I guess I am going to be getting the skid plate too since they recommend it for a Rubicon.
__________________ 2013 JKUR
MB TKO 17x8 wheels
285/70/17 Goodyear Duratracs
Rock Krawler 2.5" max travel, Bilstein 5100's
Line X grill with Rugged Ridge insert
You'd have to drill your own mounting holes. I didn't want to since I plan on running a winch at some point. When that time comes I'll use a farlead mount. But for now she rides up in the windshield. I could zip tie it up front, might do that if I get hassled about it being in the windshield. Not really a design flaws, many states don't require a front plate.
Been thinking about using L brackets and a thin sheet of metal or aluminum and making my own bracket and use the winch mounting holes for the L brackets. I just don't and won't drill holes into this bumper for a stupid plate that I'm required to have.
Nates off road. Retains the stock plate design. Can't imagine covering up wheels with a plate. Also running LEDs through the tire for the third eye. Would never buy a bumper from a manufacturer that did not think if this.
Good luck with your mod
So where do you put it. Hopefully it doesn't stay on the tire and windshield or its a bad design.
I put mine just a little it above the skid plate. I did not drill any holes or buy a license plate holder. All I did was take double sided 3m tape and put it all over the back of the plate, stuck it on, and took a Micro torch and heated up the front of the plate to let the tape warm up and stick. If you leave it in the windshield you will get a ticket(don't ask me how I know ). Hope this helps..
QUESTION? With the bumper on is it possible to remove the grill. I may down the road want to add new headlights.
SKID + RUBICON = CUT THE CRASHBAR REQUIRED
I just got the PS Brawler Lite (with plate gussets) plus the skid. I did a test fit without the skid and it fit on fine. I trimmed the crash bar and put the skid on tight and it would not go on. I tried a few times and checked to make sure it was lined up. There was nothing small to trim in the way when test fitting. It does fit if I loosen the 4 side skid attachment bolts. Then if flexes just enough. It leaves about a 1/8" gap on the side. There is no way around not cutting off the crashbar with a rubicon and the skid in my opinion. At least with having everything tight to spec. I don't think the spring ratchet adapters will go up to 40ft/lbs. The electric swaybar motor, and the swaybar pipe that runs across, is in the way of being able to get you arm in to tighten the bolts. Between the swaybar pipe and the crashbar leaves about 3". It's not a straight shot though and there is almost no room to actually ratchet when your in there. I think I could MAYBE tighten the passenger inside frame bolts after putting the bumper in place. That would be at best down to about 10ft/lbs. That also would be if I was super lucky, and I didn't drop the bolt or break my arm. Then there is the driver side with the vacuum pump right in the way. Add the crashbar to that and it will be hard to get the inner most frame bolts. I could see maybe making it work if you didn't put on the 4 inner frame bolts on. Even with midget arms I cannot see the inner lower frame mounting bolts being possible with the crashbar in the way.
SKID + CRASHBAR = MUD COLLECTOR
The skid plate rest against the crashbar tightly. It works out that if mud got in the front holes of the skid, it would collect against the crash bar. It makes a pocket that would make mud very hard to get out.
TRIMMING THE CRASH BAR
I spent a good amount of time trimming up the crashbar. With my 2012 it seems like all I really needed to do was trim off the bottom of the 2 sides. They drop about 3/8" below the main crossmember portion of the crashbar. The vertical cut that it showed in the directions I don't think were necessary for me (2012 JK). I did make the cut before I realized that I didn't need to. I read this guys post and figured it out after angle grinding them out.Poison Spyder Brawler Lite Front Bumper for JK. For anyone wanting to keep the crashbar just know that you need to absolutely make the main long bottom middle portion, the lowest area. The skid will come up right onto it.
Here you see I made the recommended vertical cut. It appears that just cutting on the green line would have worked. NOTE:The crashbar style I believe has changed over the years.
Here is the rear. I highlighted the part that needs to get trimmed.
Here is the side before trimming. The gold line I created trying to find the best way to cut it.
Here it's trimmed, but on the other side
Originally Posted by RedSectorA
I left my crash bar mostly intact, only notching the corners. If I had to do it again (and I might) I would completely remove it.
My crash bar must have been a smidge lower that most because I could not get the lip of the skid to slide over the bottom of the crash bar with the bumper and skid bolted together tightly. I had to leave the skid hanging loosely from the bottom of the bumper and then tighten it all up once the bumper was tight to the frame horns. It still isn't 100% and it's nagging at me. I might take the entire thing back off and lop off the crash bar.
That makes 2 of us. I also have a small gap on the passenger side, side, where I can see light through. That's with it bolted all the way down. It's not really noticeable when mounted though.