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Old 07-16-2013, 11:13 AM   #91
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Originally Posted by ESP View Post
So the axles could certainly still shift?
Way off topic, but I just actually read your avatar just now....awesome!

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Old 07-16-2013, 11:25 AM   #92
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Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
Yes because the brackets lower your CA's and do nothing with the track bar.
Makes sense.

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Way off topic, but I just actually read your avatar just now....awesome!
Yeppers. I liked the color so much I picked one up a few months ago. Make that jeep no# 5.

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Old 07-16-2013, 11:37 AM   #93
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Old 07-18-2013, 05:33 PM   #94
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Ok, I finally got around to posting about this mod.

Had just over 5 and 1/2 inches measuring from the spring seat to the frame.

Got the brackets and put them on. Do yourself a big favor. Just CUT that freaking upper control arm bolt on the passenger side and buy another one at the hardware store. TRUST ME ON THIS! Buy a sawzall if you have to.

I wasted more time trying to get that POS bolt out than it took to cut it, drive 10 miles each way to Home Depot, get a new bolt, and put everything else on and torque it all down, and clean everything up and put away the tools. The kit really should come with a spare. I'd gladly pay the 2 bucks extra.

I could only use the upper hole on the bracket. No way I could have even tried using the other holes. Other than that one bolt, install was a breeze.

Ride and handling are much improved. No more brake dive, smoother shifting with no "squat" (manual tranny), bumps and potholes are barely felt, and I can easily drive one handed or even one or two fingers on better roads. No more grabbing the wheel with both hands to be on the safe side.

Will see August 3rd how she travels offroad. The brackets hang just over 2 inches lower than stock. Worth $99? No question.
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Old 07-18-2013, 05:45 PM   #95
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I had to pick my lines carefully when going offroad...They only took a beating in a dirt mound due to my 4drs wheel base.
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Old 07-18-2013, 06:11 PM   #96
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I've seen a few people say they use these brackets with adj. LCAs, not just as a replacement for adj. LCAs. I'm tempted to try these, but I want to keep my RK adj. LCAs because they seem to be much stouter than the stock LCAs. Is it advisable to use these along with adj. LCAs and would I likely get the same benefit?
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Old 07-20-2013, 12:12 AM   #97
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Hey, Brighton!

I'm no expert, but I don't think you would want to use these brackets with adjustable LCAs because kit is specifically engineered to avoid the need for a longer LCA. If your adjustable LCAs can be adjusted back to stock length, then I would say they should work just fine. Especially if they are heavier duty.

If you leave the LCAs at their adjusted length, the addition of the kit would likely over-correct the front-end geometry using both together. Tread carefully!

FYI...my JKS Adjustable Track Bars were about the same length as the stock ones out of the box...I just made them a bit longer after when I installed my lift. I would think the same might be possible for the adj. LCAs. The drawback is that you paid for feature (adjustability) that you won't need anymore.

In the end, the geometry correction kit significantly improved my ride, similar to the experience of Mark above (see my note a bit further back). Definitely worth the money with little compromise off-road, IMHO.

I hope this helps!

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Old 07-20-2013, 09:45 AM   #98
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I think you would benefit with both. Why ?
Since the arms hang lower, most aftermarket arms are stronger. RK's LCA's are bent up some for more clearance.
Right now I am using the middle hole at around 4* caster. The upper hole would prob add too much. With adjustable arms, you can tweak caster with uppers or lowers. Both wheelbase.

Bob, I do agree though. You "should not" need to run both. In my opinion, it won't hurt.
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Old 07-20-2013, 12:36 PM   #99
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Bob & kjeeper,
Thanks for the comments. If I understand correctly (and I may not), the geo brackets assist by returning the LCAs to a more horizontal position after lifting, while adjustable LCAs lengthen the control arms, but keep the arms at more of an angle. If I installed the geo brackets with my adjustable LCAs, I would likely need to reduce the length of the LCAs, maybe even back to stock length.

Kjeeper, you are correct the RK LCAs are bent, what they call "high clearance" arms, so while I would be negating some of the benefit of the additional clearance, they are still beefier and I would probably have some additional clearance over stock arms. For the cost of these brackets, I'm tempted to try them out, and I could always remove them and return the LCAs to my current setup if it doesn't improve the handling on the highway. Most of my offroading does not involve large rocks, so the slight loss of clearance may not be critical for me.

My 2.5" lift actually netted me closer to 3.5". Using the measurements from AEV, I would need to use the middle hole. My caster is currently at 6.5*
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Old 07-20-2013, 01:04 PM   #100
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That's way to high caster @ that lift height. The angle of the driveshaft is extreme.

What we need to know, is if the brackets push the wheelbase out like CA's would.
everything else you said is correct.

If the brackets keep the axle back, the CA's would benefit in centering the axle in the wheel well.

If you are at 6+ caster, and at the 3.5" height. The brackets will set caster to 4 ish (middle hole)

You can either
- set arms to stock still benefiting from the clearance and bind free use of the flex joints.
- start at stock length but evenly lengthen to increase wheelbase.
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Old 07-20-2013, 01:21 PM   #101
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A friend of mine and I both put these on our JKU's. What a difference on both. He went out to CO for two weeks wheeling and camping. He said the jeep was a pleasure to drive (from IL to CO), no issues off road. I'm really happy with these.
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Old 07-20-2013, 02:21 PM   #102
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Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
That's way to high caster @ that lift height. The angle of the driveshaft is extreme.
I realize my caster is higher than stock. I don't have any driveline vibrations and I've been keeping an eye on my driveshaft boots, but so far no issues. I also realize I may be replacing driveshafts at some point (good excuse to install some Tom Woods?)

I had a 4x4 shop install my RK lift and they claim everything is centered and so forth. It handles well until about 50 mph, then it starts to have a flighty feeling, and becomes harder to control over bumps and potholes, etc. so I was hoping the geo brackets could help correct that.

So by doing nothing else but installing the brackets, it would bring my caster back to around 4* ?
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Old 07-20-2013, 04:05 PM   #103
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I realize my caster is higher than stock. I don't have any driveline vibrations and I've been keeping an eye on my driveshaft boots, but so far no issues. I also realize I may be replacing driveshafts at some point (good excuse to install some Tom Woods?)

I had a 4x4 shop install my RK lift and they claim everything is centered and so forth. It handles well until about 50 mph, then it starts to have a flighty feeling, and becomes harder to control over bumps and potholes, etc. so I was hoping the geo brackets could help correct that.

So by doing nothing else but installing the brackets, it would bring my caster back to around 4* ?
Without the arms or set to stock. We don't have any idea what your arms are set to, that's the problem.

That's still worrisome on the caster. Is that the number they gave you ? Some people try to gauge caster of the bottom of knuckle.
You shouldn't have any wandering. The brackets will improve overall feel over bumps/potholes.
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Old 07-20-2013, 04:13 PM   #104
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Without the arms or set to stock. We don't have any idea what your arms are set to, that's the problem.

That's still worrisome on the caster. Is that the number they gave you ? Some people try to gauge caster of the bottom of knuckle.
You shouldn't have any wandering. The brackets will improve overall feel over bumps/potholes.
Yep, 6.5* with 1/8" toe-in was from the installer when I asked about it after I had it back in to be re-torqued.
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Old 07-20-2013, 04:30 PM   #105
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Day-um. That's crazy.

Just for reference @3.5 of lift and 5* caster. My u-joint was running over 6*
5* is pushing it with 3* being the max safe operation angle.

Def a no no with a aftermarket shaft. I know you have stock, but really surprised you have no issues
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Old 07-20-2013, 04:34 PM   #106
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Difference with mine being a 4-door? Btw, this is a reputable Jeep-specific 4x4 shop.
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Old 07-20-2013, 06:06 PM   #107
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None.

RK recommends 4.5 like mentioned. People complain of bowing coils. Reason, the arms out too far and/or too much caster,

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rock Krawler Suspension View Post
That is cool. Glad you got it squared away. That is part of the reason we recommend 4.2 to 4.5 is proper lower spring pad positioning.


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Old 07-20-2013, 06:47 PM   #108
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thanks, sorry for taking this off-topic. I'll see if I can get my caster back into a recommended range and then I may still try the brackets since I don't see a big downside for my use.
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Old 07-20-2013, 06:51 PM   #109
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Good information for anybody stopping by
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Old 07-20-2013, 07:00 PM   #110
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Does AEV make a shock shifter kit (and sell it separately) for the JK?
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Old 07-20-2013, 07:28 PM   #111
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Does AEV make a shock shifter kit (and sell it separately) for the JK?
what do you mean by this ?
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Old 07-20-2013, 07:47 PM   #112
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Don't they or didn't they have a kit that moves the lower front shock mounts more outboard?
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Old 07-20-2013, 07:59 PM   #113
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Hmm not sure. I don't think so. Synergy makes a good set.
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Old 07-20-2013, 09:33 PM   #114
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The Synergy one moves the mount up. I'll do some checking. I saw some Rough Country ones that moves the mount so the shocks move away from the frame by ~2 inches. Someone told me AEV includes them with their kit or something. I'll call AEV.
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Old 07-21-2013, 12:47 AM   #115
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The Synergy one moves the mount up. I'll do some checking. I saw some Rough Country ones that moves the mount so the shocks move away from the frame by ~2 inches. Someone told me AEV includes them with their kit or something. I'll call AEV.
http://www.nem-ind.com/catalog/jk/jk...er-shock-mount

The RC ones are prob just the extensions offered with their budget boosts.
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Old 07-21-2013, 10:47 AM   #116
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I wanted to get an idea of articulation using the AEV brackets and stock arms

My passenger rear was stuffed sitting on the bumpstop pad. driver side pulled in because of the stock arms. (Axle steer)

This was slightly pulling on the brake line, and I did not want to push it. Disco'ing from the frame or longer lines would give the slack on I needed.

I would say it did really well. I still had room/shock travel to go in the front. My guess 2-3"?Well..... besides dumping diff fluid out through my driver side axle seal
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Old 07-22-2013, 05:39 PM   #117
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Anybody got a flexy setup using AEV brackets ?
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Old 07-22-2013, 08:07 PM   #118
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Haven't flexed it since I did the brackets, but I already extended the brake lines.

I need to re-install my homemade quick discos anyway. so when I do I'll see about some pics, if I can find anything decent to flex on, and the time to do it.
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Old 07-23-2013, 12:14 AM   #119
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I just installed the brackets today. 2013 2 door sport, Running Rubicon Express 3.5" lift with acos adjustable spacer in the front (1") and one inch spacers in the rear and rubicon express drive shaft.

All I can say is "wow". The difference is night and day. Roads in Tucson suck and before the brackets hitting and bumps in the road or transitions at over passes(where the street ends and the bridge starts) was jarring at times. Now that energy is transferred to the suspension. Its about as close to the way it felt when I drove it off the lot.

I eventually want to replace all 8 arms but until then is was well worth the $100.

I will have it out at Charleau Gap this sunday so I will get some flex and clearance shots. I am really not o worried about clearance tho.
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Old 07-23-2013, 04:45 AM   #120
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