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Old 06-28-2013, 07:11 PM   #1
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Yet another regearing question

So the next mod is definitely gonna be a re gear. Found diffs and casings and such online. I know im gonna need new rings and pinions, and a new carrier up front. However! Do i need a whole new diff assembly or just the case? I have stock 3.21's right now. Im asking bc the 3.73 and up case is like 89 bucks where as the assembly is like 300 lol

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Old 06-28-2013, 09:03 PM   #2
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So the next mod is definitely gonna be a re gear. Found diffs and casings and such online. I know im gonna need new rings and pinions, and a new carrier up front. However! Do i need a whole new diff assembly or just the case? I have stock 3.21's right now. Im asking bc the 3.73 and up case is like 89 bucks where as the assembly is like 300 lol
Somebody please answer me before i swipe the card on a RE loft kit lol. Its staring at me....

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Old 06-28-2013, 09:18 PM   #3
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I'd slow down a bit and double check with an expert on the new Jeeps (I ain't one)

As far as I know, you need the ring and pinion gears for your axle (d30 or d44) and the install kit, (bearings, pinion seals, pinion shims, crush sleeve, pinion nut, ring gear bolts)

Also, that's a good bit of coin for going up from 3.21 to just 3.73, I'd be cracking the diffs open for a bigger jump, like 3.21 to 4.10 or more likely 4.56. But if you've done the math for your application, game on and good luck.
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Old 06-28-2013, 09:21 PM   #4
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far as I'm aware you'll just need the new carrier. do you have a link to the assembly of which you speak?
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Old 06-28-2013, 09:23 PM   #5
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Call the guys at Yukon, or any reputable comapany/shop and the will let you know exactly what you will need. If you're gonna be in there do you want lockers also? With the amount of highway driving I do I wouldn't go more than 4.1, but if I was changing from a 3.21 I would go to 4.1 for 35" tires. If you have the D30 in front don't do more than a 4.88.
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Old 06-28-2013, 09:35 PM   #6
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I'd slow down a bit and double check with an expert on the new Jeeps (I ain't one)

As far as I know, you need the ring and pinion gears for your axle (d30 or d44) and the install kit, (bearings, pinion seals, pinion shims, crush sleeve, pinion nut, ring gear bolts)

Also, that's a good bit of coin for going up from 3.21 to just 3.73, I'd be cracking the diffs open for a bigger jump, like 3.21 to 4.10 or more likely 4.56. But if you've done the math for your application, game on and good luck.
Oh sorry i meant to say ill be going 4:10 i just meant i need the 3.73 and up carrier. Wont be adding lockers, i just dont feel they are necessary for me. Will post the link in a minute when i find it again but its on morris 4x4 under the parts diagrams for the jk
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Old 06-28-2013, 09:39 PM   #7
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Old 06-28-2013, 09:41 PM   #8
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Oh sorry i meant to say ill be going 4:10 i just meant i need the 3.73 and up carrier. Wont be adding lockers, i just dont feel they are necessary for me. Will post the link in a minute when i find it again but its on morris 4x4 under the parts diagrams for the jk
All you should need is the gears/carrier, an install kit (G2 makes a good one), a dial indicator for measuring the backlash, some black RTV and gear oil. Are you planning on doing this yourself? Have you done it before? It's not hard.

If you're gonna keep open diffs then you will need the new case.
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Old 06-28-2013, 09:43 PM   #9
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All you should need is the gears/carrier, an install kit (G2 makes a good one), a dial indicator for measuring the backlash, some black RTV and gear oil. Are you planning on doing this yourself? Have you done it before? It's not hard.
Lol no way im scared sh*tless to do it. Gonna have a guy called the jeep doctor over here do it for me. Was quoted 250 an axle for labor.
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Old 06-28-2013, 09:48 PM   #10
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Lol no way im scared sh*tless to do it. Gonna have a guy called the jeep doctor over here do it for me. Was quoted 250 an axle for labor.
That's not bad, if he guarantees his work it's worth it.
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Old 06-28-2013, 09:52 PM   #11
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That's not bad, if he guarantees his work it's worth it.
Yea i been meaning to ask him about guarantees, i knows he a big go to guy around here.
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Old 06-29-2013, 12:14 AM   #12
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My 4.10 are not enough for 35s. I do live in Colorado but any halfway decent incline will have it shift down 1-2 instantly. Not too bad when flat but I'm getting 4.56s next year....if I can stand it that long.
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Old 06-29-2013, 12:26 AM   #13
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My 4.10 are not enough for 35s. I do live in Colorado but any halfway decent incline will have it shift down 1-2 instantly. Not too bad when flat but I'm getting 4.56s next year....if I can stand it that long.
I agree with this. Although 4:10s are manageable, there not optimal, and your not going to spend that kind of money on something that's going to make your vehicle "manageable". I believe 4.56 is the best way to go for 35s. Not too deep, but deep enough to make you feel preppy off the light And crawly off road (I made new words).
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Old 06-29-2013, 01:14 PM   #14
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4.56s on 35s is great. 4.10s will (probably) get better MPG....but who cares. (Yes; I know, lots of people- just not me). You will need a new carrier upfront as mentioned. Just an interesting pic- the D30 carrier vs. the D44. (The difference in the new front carrier is pretty small- we wondered if it was necessary but sure as hell weren't taking the chance). G2 does have a nice kit- what we used on our install.
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Old 06-29-2013, 02:56 PM   #15
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The 4.10 may get better mileage on the highway, not necessarily the city. I can get 21 MPG doing under 65 MPH. In the city (mixed driving really...I don't live in a very congested area), I get around 16 MPG. I just get a bit frustrated with the gear-hunting and lack or acceleration sometimes. My 4Runner revs lower but the V8 has much more torque so it's not an issue. I also think the 4.88 would be too much for me (best for 37s, in my opinion) and the 4.56s seems to be the best option unless you think 37s are in your future. I'll use Yukon gears, and am currently researching local shops. I may be jobless for a few months (by design, so I can travel) so I should probably wait till next year.
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Old 06-29-2013, 05:54 PM   #16
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I think 4:10's will be plenty for me. I wanna be able to still use my 32's for the time being and not shift it like a big rig lol. As for the actual tires i wanna get, im thinking about staying metric and with the same tires. I really love these trail grapplers. I was thinking the 285/75/17 size would be perfect. Basically 34's and one foot wide. I think true 35's just look to big on the 2 doors. And i dont plan on going higher than a 2.5 inch lift.
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Old 06-29-2013, 06:11 PM   #17
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I think 4:10's will be plenty for me. I wanna be able to still use my 32's for the time being and not shift it like a big rig lol. As for the actual tires i wanna get, im thinking about staying metric and with the same tires. I really love these trail grapplers. I was thinking the 285/75/17 size would be perfect. Basically 34's and one foot wide. I think true 35's just look to big on the 2 doors. And i dont plan on going higher than a 2.5 inch lift.
That's a good plan. A lot of people either want 35's or 33's. the size you picked will look great on a two door. But I will say, 4.56 isn't all that deep, and you may regret your decision of 4.10. Especially because nittos are very heavy. 4.88 will be of a crawler setup, but 4.56 will be great for DD and off road. 32's and 4.56 will be a little funky, but that, as you said, is for the time being, but in the long run, you'll be happier you went with 4.56.
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Old 06-29-2013, 06:14 PM   #18
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Ugh man your guys are putting voices in my head lmao..... Ok opinions on 4:56 and 32's lol define funky because i do gotta drive with these until my card is back to zero from the regear lol
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Old 06-29-2013, 06:23 PM   #19
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Ugh man your guys are putting voices in my head lmao..... Ok opinions on 4:56 and 32's lol define funky because i do gotta drive with these until my card is back to zero from the regear lol
How long are you thinking? It will feel really quick and zippy around town but the highway will be a little annoying. You will be revving really high, and you will probably be getting 15 mpg cruising on the highway with those gears and tires. It's definitely something that will annoy you for the time being, but it's worth the hassle, because those 34's will feel much better with 4.56 gears. If your cruising around town, the gears and 32's will get pretty fun I might add do 4.56.... DO IT NOW. (Arnold's Schwarz' s voice)
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Old 06-29-2013, 06:27 PM   #20
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^EET EES NOT AH TOOMAH.......but it is good advice, +1
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Old 06-29-2013, 09:46 PM   #21
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Ugh man your guys are putting voices in my head lmao..... Ok opinions on 4:56 and 32's lol define funky because i do gotta drive with these until my card is back to zero from the regear lol
I ran 4.56 on an AT XJ with 32" BFG MTs for years. Different animal. You could just use a good Jeep gear calculator online and select your year, trans type and tire size and it'll show you your RPM at speed.

My favorite one is
http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html

On the XJ it was rather aggressive. The 4.0 turned pretty high on the freeway. But nothing too bad. Again different animal there. I'd have to compare on calculator as to how much different....
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Old 06-29-2013, 09:57 PM   #22
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I ran 4.56 on an AT XJ with 32" BFG MTs for years. Different animal. You could just use a good Jeep gear calculator online and select your year, trans type and tire size and it'll show you your RPM at speed.

My favorite one is
http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html

On the XJ it was rather aggressive. The 4.0 turned pretty high on the freeway. But nothing too bad. Again different animal there. I'd have to compare on calculator as to how much different....
That seems cool but i have no idea what the name of this tranny or the numeric value of the gears lol
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Old 06-30-2013, 01:23 PM   #23
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I think 4:10's will be plenty for me. I wanna be able to still use my 32's for the time being and not shift it like a big rig lol. As for the actual tires i wanna get, im thinking about staying metric and with the same tires. I really love these trail grapplers. I was thinking the 285/75/17 size would be perfect. Basically 34's and one foot wide. I think true 35's just look to big on the 2 doors. And i dont plan on going higher than a 2.5 inch lift.
No such thing as too big. May have missed it but how much lift do you have?
I ran 305/70/17s for several months on much lighter KM2s and it was perfectly fine. Yes highway RPMs are a little high but its not a Honda. The power band on Jeep is pretty flat at 2000-3000. (Remember the extra 85 hp on the Pentastar doesn't even hit until over 5000).. There isn't a ton of difference between 2600 RPms and3000. Figure around 2700 RPMs at 70. It does hit you at the pump- but I drive 75 so it doesn't help. 4.10s are fine- 4.56s will put you better than stock.

Search DERF on the member forum. I think he or Grimm created the gear calculator. It was right on. You can look at his posts; I know he mentions which tranny to use.
And honestly I've had more compliments in the two months I've had on my 35" MTRs than the entire time I had my 305s. And it's from non-Jeepers too.I do have a 3.5" lift.
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Old 06-30-2013, 02:54 PM   #24
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That seems cool but i have no idea what the name of this tranny or the numeric value of the gears lol

Yeah, the 6 speed is the NSG 370 and the auto after 2012 is the W5A8580.

The transfer case is NV241 or NV241OR (in a Rubicon).

Anyway, if you don't want to bother with the full calculator, there's lots of charts that show you where you'd be if you went ahead with 4.56 on 32s.

There are charts posted in threads here.

Here's one that's easy to read.

Header

Just scroll down to the 3.6L and transmission you have.

On a true 32" tire, you will run 2403 RPM at 70 MPH in 6th with 4.10 and 2672 RPM at the same speed with 4.56.

If you are going up to a "34" eventually you get 2261 at 70 with a 4.10 and 2515 at 70 with 4.56. (The caveat is that the metric 35s vary in height around 34.something).

Now, only you know what you're going to use your Jeep for. Lots of folks like the low gears because they offroad often and when not offroad their miles come from running around town on taller tires. OTOH, there's folks here in the flat lands running 33s on 3.21 gears all day long having a blast.

The other thing, 4.10s are going to be less expensive than 4.56 most of the time. To be honest, I'd go up to 315s on my 4.10s without thinking of regearing due to the cost involved, unless I lived in the mountains. I only live in the "hills" and can hold 6th on 33s. No big deal if I have to reach down to 5th eh?

Originally, I misread your post and thought you were going to the expense of regearing to get up to 3.73. My bad.

If you've got time though, think about what else you can do while the pumpkin is open, like true lockers on the higher side, or even something as simple as new diff covers and swapping over to synthetic oil.
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Old 06-30-2013, 05:56 PM   #25
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Thanks for the replies everyone. As of now i only have a 2" budget boost. I really dont like rock crawling or bending stuff on my jeep lol. I do enjoy going down some fire trails carrying a slight amount of speed though. And i absolutely love driving in the snow. I will be ordering the RE 2.5" lift with monotubes very shortly. I just think im gonna do the gears and tires first.
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Old 07-01-2013, 01:57 PM   #26
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Yeah, the 6 speed is the NSG 370 and the auto after 2012 is the W5A8580.

The transfer case is NV241 or NV241OR (in a Rubicon).

Anyway, if you don't want to bother with the full calculator, there's lots of charts that show you where you'd be if you went ahead with 4.56 on 32s.

There are charts posted in threads here.

Here's one that's easy to read.

Header



The other thing, 4.10s are going to be less expensive than 4.56 most of the time. To be honest, I'd go up to 315s on my 4.10s without thinking of regearing due to the cost involved, unless I lived in the mountains. I only live in the "hills" and can hold 6th on 33s. No big deal if I have to reach down to 5th eh?

.
Thanks for posting the chart. I found the calculator most helpful because it shows other speeds. You don't drive 70 MPH all day. I wanted to see city driving speeds and found the calculator to be pretty accurate.

It's probably a local thing- but we were quoted the same price no matter what the gear ratio for install. For just the gears/install kits if there was a price difference it was very minimal. That was several months ago however. Delivery was the issue- 4.56s are harder to come by than 4.10s.
Good luck! You'll enjoy no matter which ratio you choose.

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