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Old 09-19-2013, 04:53 PM   #1
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You'll never guess why my door is rattling! Ugh!

Couldn't find the thread from a few weeks ago about my passenger side rear door rattling on my 13 JKU. Dealer has had it all day and just called to tell me that inside the D pillar, there is a thin strip of metal rattling around. They don't know what it is for, why its there, if it should be bolted/welded to something or what. So they no need it for 4-5 days in the body shop. Said they may not be able to comp me a loaner (which is pure BS since its under warranty and I'll fight them on it). Pretty aggravated. Anyone EVER hear about something like this?

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Old 09-19-2013, 04:59 PM   #2
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A few days? If there's a matching vehicle on the lot they should switch doors and figure it out on their time, not yours.

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Old 09-19-2013, 05:18 PM   #3
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Is the D pillar part of the door? If so, just leave the door.
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Old 09-19-2013, 05:31 PM   #4
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Probably meant B pillar. There is fno D.

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Old 09-19-2013, 06:41 PM   #5
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The service tech specifically said D on the phone. SAid its between the C and the rear gate. I wondered about that as well. When I picked it up I learned he had been there 8 days so he may not know what he was talking about. Anyhow, replacing a door won't do a think. Its in the tub. Shoot me now. :-(
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Old 09-19-2013, 06:47 PM   #6
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Drill small hole, inject sealer/epoxy, and call it good. Otherwise, let them send it to body shop for a few days.
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Old 09-19-2013, 07:00 PM   #7
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So above the rear arch well? Definitely no easy access (Photo from Sblaine's JK8 thread). IIRC you have to drill out all the spot welds to remove the panel.

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Old 09-19-2013, 07:26 PM   #8
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So above the rear arch well? Definitely no easy access (Photo from Sblaine's JK8 thread). IIRC you have to drill out all the spot welds to remove the panel.

Ugh. This is why they need it for that long.
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Old 09-19-2013, 07:53 PM   #9
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That sucks.. almost sounds like a robot missed a spot weld or two and QC was napping or on an extended lunch..
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Old 09-19-2013, 08:03 PM   #10
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So above the rear arch well? Definitely no easy access (Photo from Sblaine's JK8 thread). IIRC you have to drill out all the spot welds to remove the panel.

Thats technically not the D pillar. The D pillar would be above the belt line, the back uprights of the hard top. Maybe the dealer is loose with the terms.

Honestly, if I had a minor rattle in that place, I'd probably leave it and hope it settled. Perhaps fill more of it with the self expanding foam like the factory does!
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Old 09-19-2013, 11:40 PM   #11
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I work for Chrysler, not the Jeep plant, but most terminology is corporate wide, on a JKU there would be a D pillar. The pillars are named alphabetically starting at the windshield with A. B would be located behind the front door, C behind the rear door leaving D as the most furthest structure point in the rear. In a Jeep this could mean the attachment point of the roll bar which would explain why the technician described it as being between the C and the gate. I haven't removed my taillight but I'm wondering if doing so would provide access to the cavity at the rear corner of the Jeep? Maybe someone who has done work in this area can provide more info on that. I can reassure you however that more often than not a rattle is caused by a nut or bolt being dropped during assembly rather than a major manufacturing defect such as a missed weld especially in an area of structural integrity. I'm not saying its impossible just hope for the best and let the warranty take care of it. Pretty crappy being without your Jeep though.
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Old 09-20-2013, 12:05 AM   #12
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I have a rattle coming from the tailgate stop. I've tightened all the screws and lubed it. It's better, but still there.
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Old 09-20-2013, 12:30 AM   #13
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Yes, you can access both rear cavities by removing the two screws nearest the tailgate on each light and then gently pulling or wiggling the light until it releases and tilts out. Unplug the harness behind the light and it's free, you'll have a hole to look into.

With the noise on the passenger side I would wonder if the tailgate arm has chipped or broken off inside the panel, or a part related to it.

Check out this thread about the tailgate, the later pages have a lot of info and some photos.

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f33/my-...ke-195265.html
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Old 09-20-2013, 12:27 PM   #14
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Yes, you can access both rear cavities by removing the two screws nearest the tailgate on each light and then gently pulling or wiggling the light until it releases and tilts out. Unplug the harness behind the light and it's free, you'll have a hole to look into.
^^^^ This

I had my taillights off a few months ago when I was at my buddy's house to get the jeep undercoated. We were able to put a 3ft long nozzle inside there from the taillight hole all the way to the rear door

dp
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Old 09-20-2013, 02:36 PM   #15
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It gets better. Last night and this morning I absolutely heard the rattling they were talking about. Around corners especially as the item moves around. However, that rattle was NOT what I was hearing before. In fact, I never heard it before. I now have the rattle they discussed and the driver's side rear door. Wonder if a tech dropped something in there somehow while trying to figure out the door. It went in with one rattle and came out with two.

Thanks to all of you for your replies.
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Old 09-20-2013, 02:53 PM   #16
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I had a mouse get inside the b pillar and die with no way to get to it. Talk about a horrible smell. I tried everything to get it out and finally just had to run a water hose down it to flush it out!
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Old 09-20-2013, 03:31 PM   #17
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^^^^ This

I had my taillights off a few months ago when I was at my buddy's house to get the jeep undercoated. We were able to put a 3ft long nozzle inside there from the taillight hole all the way to the rear door

dp
Sounds like I need a long thin mechanics magnet. And Im talking LONG!
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Old 09-20-2013, 11:31 PM   #18
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You might be surprised. The area in the rear isn't that big, and there isn't a ton of areas where a dropped item can float into that are hard to get to. A standard 18 inch expanding magnet should do the trick. In fact, when I was working on a few things in there I dropped a screw. I could easily see it in the bottom, and feel it, but not pick it up. A quick swipe with the magnet and I got it. My driver's side had foam already installed on the bottom, my driver's side did not (does now).

If you want to spend some time in there you may also want to route the rear axle breather tube through the bottom and into the cavity behind the taillight for some extra protection.
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Old 09-21-2013, 01:44 PM   #19
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You might be surprised. The area in the rear isn't that big, and there isn't a ton of areas where a dropped item can float into that are hard to get to. A standard 18 inch expanding magnet should do the trick. In fact, when I was working on a few things in there I dropped a screw. I could easily see it in the bottom, and feel it, but not pick it up. A quick swipe with the magnet and I got it. My driver's side had foam already installed on the bottom, my driver's side did not (does now).

If you want to spend some time in there you may also want to route the rear axle breather tube through the bottom and into the cavity behind the taillight for some extra protection.
Ill check it out. Go in through the driver's side taillight?
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Old 09-21-2013, 03:12 PM   #20
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Go in through the side that is making noise. If you can, have someone ride with you in back and narrow down where the noise is first, or have someone drive while you look (sometimes this works easier since you know what the noise sounds like).

If it's on the passenger side use that tail light. Also, there are a few holes in the panels leading to the area behind the body panels, you can see that in the photo above. If you get creative you can search these areas to using a small magnet on a flexible rod.
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Old 09-21-2013, 03:37 PM   #21
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Go in through the side that is making noise. If you can, have someone ride with you in back and narrow down where the noise is first, or have someone drive while you look (sometimes this works easier since you know what the noise sounds like).

If it's on the passenger side use that tail light. Also, there are a few holes in the panels leading to the area behind the body panels, you can see that in the photo above. If you get creative you can search these areas to using a small magnet on a flexible rod.
Appreciate the advice.
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Old 09-21-2013, 07:39 PM   #22
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You might be surprised. The area in the rear isn't that big, and there isn't a ton of areas where a dropped item can float into that are hard to get to. A standard 18 inch expanding magnet should do the trick. In fact, when I was working on a few things in there I dropped a screw. I could easily see it in the bottom, and feel it, but not pick it up. A quick swipe with the magnet and I got it. My driver's side had foam already installed on the bottom, my driver's side did not (does now).

If you want to spend some time in there you may also want to route the rear axle breather tube through the bottom and into the cavity behind the taillight for some extra protection.
Sorry, may be I don't get it, but what is the reason to put foam in there ? Wouldn't this help keep moisture in and accellerate rust from inside ?
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Old 09-23-2013, 04:19 PM   #23
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I have a rattle coming from the tailgate stop. I've tightened all the screws and lubed it. It's better, but still there.
I had a similar issue. not sure if you've done this yet, but double check that your spare is tightened down all the way. Mine was the slightest bit loose and the rattling drove me crazy.
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Old 09-23-2013, 04:40 PM   #24
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Sorry, may be I don't get it, but what is the reason to put foam in there ? Wouldn't this help keep moisture in and accellerate rust from inside ?
The foam they are speaking of is not the spongy foam but an expanding foam that is used as a sound deadener and insulation. Some of the body cavities are already filled with it from the factory. It's an industrial strength version of the stuff you buy in small cans to fill around the doors and windows of your house to stop drafts.
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Old 09-23-2013, 10:51 PM   #25
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I had a similar issue. not sure if you've done this yet, but double check that your spare is tightened down all the way. Mine was the slightest bit loose and the rattling drove me crazy.
It finally stopped on mine. But I'll check the spare too. I like everything nie and tight.

I knocked the Jeep around quite a bit this weekend on Padre Island. The beach was torn up pretty good by the high surf due to the Tropical Storm in the Gulf. Whatever was loose ought to be settled now.
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Old 09-23-2013, 11:06 PM   #26
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I have a rattle coming from the tailgate stop. I've tightened all the screws and lubed it. It's better, but still there.
electric tape the base where the light comes in contact when bolting. makes for a good buffer.
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Old 09-24-2013, 12:22 AM   #27
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The foam keeps debris and water out - you can also buy foam that water can drain through but it won't allow water to rush in (it will seep in if you are submerged for awhile though).

Since we get some mean spring weather I prefer to not have to pull the plastic out of the bottom area and stick a hose in there to clear the debris after I have been out in the crappy weather already. If you look in the wheel well you'll notice the tires can easily spin debris up, over the top of the rear metal if you remove the plastic fender liner. I did this, so I also foamed that hole to keep stuff out.

I mistyped either as well - the passenger side was foamed at the factory, the driver's side was not. I cut a plastic lid from a storage bin and placed it at the bottom on the driver's side, then I foamed the lid in. I used waterproof pond foam - the same stuff you built fish ponds with and fountains. It's black and it works well. you can carve or cut it when dry, but it doesn't look as nice as a job done well to begin with. If you want to keep it contained and not have it expand outside an area there are two options.

Foam a few inches behind where you want it a pray it expands into the area well - this does have a pretty good rate of success too, if it expands too much and you watch it, you can cut it off when it's still wet and expanding and it will continue to expand which covers your cut marks pretty well too.

Or if you want it nice and easy - take a piece of plastic like a lid from a storage bin, cut it to fit the area and foam it in. If you want to have the black foam showing when done instead of a plastic lid - rub a light coat of Vaseline on the plastic, put that to the inside, and duck tape the plastic over the hole tightly - any gap is potential for foam to escape. If you can, put pressure over the plastic too, the foam likes to push on it, or use heavy plastic. Spray your foam and wait a few hours for it to cure. If you spray it thick it takes longer, foam cures from the outside in, so if you pull the cover off to early it will continue to expand (bad). Wait until cured, and pull the plastic off, the Vaseline should make it fall right off or close to it. Wash the Vaseline off the foam and you're done.
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Old 09-24-2013, 12:22 PM   #28
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Received a call yesterday to set up a time to bring it in. The service guy is new. He is now saying the B pillar when he specifically said D before. He's confused. Thinking of figuring out the door myself and seeing if the other sound goes away. Not trusting these guys all that much right now.
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Old 09-24-2013, 02:09 PM   #29
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Eek. I think I would agree with you at this point. I'd rather not have a newbie at a dealer look at it unless I could meet him first.

B pillar eh? Door latch rattle is common.

Can you get someone to ride with you and pin down the noise further?
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Old 09-24-2013, 02:11 PM   #30
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Would it be feasible to pull off the doors and see if the rattle goes away? If it does, then put the doors back on one at a time to isolate the source.

If you know it's one door, then you can hopefully find the issue.

Maybe if you shook each door while off, you could find the rattle as well.

Maybe there is something inside the door panel itself. That would be FAR easier to get at than anything in the B/D pillar (never heard of a D pillar before), I would guess.

Keep us posted.

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