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Old 11-27-2012, 05:41 PM   #31
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I didn't want to spend lots of money on my lift either so I went with a 2" Rubicon Express lift (2" coil spacers, new longer shocks and bump stop extensions) for $200 shipped to me. Tires are 31x10.5x15 and it handles great both on and off road. I haven't wheeled it with the sway bars disconnected so I cant tell you if they would rub or not but I like the way it looks. I may end up doing a 1.5" body lift along with a 1" motor mount lift.



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Old 11-27-2012, 05:49 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Firehound12

The shocks that came with the lift kit were crap and only lasted a year. They used rubber bushings which dry rotted due to the salt and mud. The Skyjacker shocks have polyurethane bushing which hold up much better. I have no complaints otherwise about the actual lift kit. It wasn't a bad deal for $500.
Okay. Yea cause I was looking at the skyjacker hydro shocks. So good To know!

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Old 11-27-2012, 05:51 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Enemy
I didn't want to spend lots of money on my lift either so I went with a 2" Rubicon Express lift (2" coil spacers, new longer shocks and bump stop extensions) for $200 shipped to me. Tires are 31x10.5x15 and it handles great both on and off road. I haven't wheeled it with the sway bars disconnected so I cant tell you if they would rub or not but I like the way it looks. I may end up doing a 1.5" body lift along with a 1" motor mount lift.
What company did you use? Could you post links for me? I like your set up too
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Old 11-27-2012, 05:54 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Enemy
I didn't want to spend lots of money on my lift either so I went with a 2" Rubicon Express lift (2" coil spacers, new longer shocks and bump stop extensions) for $200 shipped to me. Tires are 31x10.5x15 and it handles great both on and off road. I haven't wheeled it with the sway bars disconnected so I cant tell you if they would rub or not but I like the way it looks. I may end up doing a 1.5" body lift along with a 1" motor mount lift.
This is the look I'm going for actually
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Old 11-27-2012, 06:52 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by markmdz View Post
If you're just going for looks and not really looking to exploit all of the off-road capabilities, a bone stock TJ is plenty capable. With that said, I don't see any need for you to gain additional travel out of the suspension, and it's a sick addiction (trust me, I'm the poster child for sick Jeep addiction. I've only had my rig just over 2 months and every other day I'm doing something different to it.)

Anyway, I'd suggest if you were to stick with 31's on 15's, go with a slightly less backspace than stock but not much and an aggressive tire but with great road manners (Goodyear DuraTrac is a great choice IMO). These tires will fit under a stock TJ without any modification.

To get a nice tasteful lift which looks great over a set of 31's, I'd suggest a simple 2" BB and a t-case drop kit. The 2" BB utilizes your stock springs and extends the bumpstops, so your travel does not change, but your height does. The t-case drop will slightly lower the t-case and net you a corrected pinion angle. IMO, even if you don't notice any vibes without the t-case drop, you're still putting your joints at a greater angle which causes more wear on the joint.

2" will give you a slightly more aggressive look, and combined with the 31" DuraTrac's, it'll look damn good. The reason I suggest a backspace only slightly less than stock is because if your tires stick out beyond your flares, even if you hit a tiny puddle, you're going to be slinging mud/water/whatever all over your rig, and while I looks pretty damn cool, it gets old especially when it's your DD.

This whole setup will run you:
Tires: 31x10.5x15 G/Y DuraTrac; 5@ $176.00 = $880.00
Wheels: 15x8 Ultra Rogue Black w/Mach Lip (3.74" b/s) 5@ $98.00 = $490.00
2" poly spacers (BB): here $60.00
Bump stop extenders (BB): here $24.00
T-case drop Kit: here $38.00

Installation: Honestly, if you want to learn more about your rig and how to wrench on it, this is a very very easy kit to install even for someone with very little mechanical knowledge. If you wanted to have a shop install it, there's no material charge and the labor should be 2-3 hours (4 max). Estimating 4 hrs @ $100.00 /hr, you're at $400 here.

Total including install charge: $1,892.00.

If you really wanted to pinch pennies, there's a ton of set of wheels/tires on craigslist or on this forum for $300-800 in very good shape. I can confidently say you can do this whole lift (if buying used wheel/tire combo) for under $1k. Well under that if you do it yourself.

With this setup, as long as you don't do anything nutty and your existing shocks are in decent shape, you'll have a very nice rig with great road manners and a nice aggressive stance.

Once you go up to 33's, you'll likely want to start thinking about a coil spring lift (although a BB will work just fine on 33's), new shocks are now recommended, and 3+" of lift is more ideal for 33's. 33's will likely make you want to regear which is not cheap. Also, 33's stuffed on stock wheels is not a good idea as they'll rub on the endlinks. A lesser offset wheel is recommended to get the clearance of the endlinks and inner wheel wells. But once you do that, because nearly all 33's are 12.5" wide, you're going to be way outside your stock flares and will be back into the mess of slinging shit everywhere. Also, 33's are considerably more expensive than 31's.

Long story short, I do personally think 33's look perfect under any TJ even if it is a pavement queen, but 31's do look damn good when done right, and 33's invite a host of other expenses which 31's do not.
I'll jump in here real quick and say that I have literally all the same questions BeachJeepPhil does and I must say this is by far one of the most helpful (if not the most helpgul) posts I've EVER seen. Thank you very much
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Old 11-27-2012, 07:07 PM   #36
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Also, would 30" tires make much of a difference in looks than 31"?
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Old 11-27-2012, 07:30 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin063

I'll jump in here real quick and say that I have literally all the same questions BeachJeepPhil does and I must say this is by far one of the most helpful (if not the most helpgul) posts I've EVER seen. Thank you very much
Glad we can all help. The feed back I'm getting is a ton of help! Thank you everyone
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Old 11-27-2012, 07:56 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeachJeepPhil

Glad we can all help. The feed back I'm getting is a ton of help! Thank you everyone
For real, I'm making myself a little list and budget here. Hoping to get all of this put together by June. Taking baby steps, but it'll get done eventually
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Old 11-27-2012, 08:01 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin063

For real, I'm making myself a little list and budget here. Hoping to get all of this put together by June. Taking baby steps, but it'll get done eventually
I truly hope to have mine done by February-April ish. Maybe sooner honestly
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Old 11-27-2012, 08:39 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeachJeepPhil

I truly hope to have mine done by February-April ish. Maybe sooner honestly
If I had a source of income it could get done waaaaay sooner. It really shouldn't run me too much, roughly $400- $500 but that's more than I have :P
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Old 11-27-2012, 08:39 PM   #41
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Another way to go is with the flat fenders. It makes the jeep look lifted, and can handle taller tires without required suspension lift.

Maybe 1.5 inch body lift and 33' tires. I'm pretty sure you won't be flexing the suspension dramatically while cruising the beach and boulevard.

Get rid of the end caps on your bumpers,
There are lots of body maneuvers you can do that are free and really wake a jeep's look up.
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Old 11-27-2012, 09:02 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Enemy
I didn't want to spend lots of money on my lift either so I went with a 2" Rubicon Express lift (2" coil spacers, new longer shocks and bump stop extensions) for $200 shipped to me. Tires are 31x10.5x15 and it handles great both on and off road. I haven't wheeled it with the sway bars disconnected so I cant tell you if they would rub or not but I like the way it looks. I may end up doing a 1.5" body lift along with a 1" motor mount lift.
I ran that combo for a short time. I wouldn't recommend running a mml with that lift as you won't see any real gain from doing it unless you plan on bumping up the lift a decent body lift like performance accessories will come with a radiator drop and will keep you in line. Also, if you do go with a 1" body lift you may want to wait until you bump to 33" tires. I ran that combo off road with the sway bar connected and it did some grade 3/4 out of 5 trails with few hang ups.
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Old 11-27-2012, 09:31 PM   #43
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ok, so full disclosure:

My setup and all costs for the setup are as follows.

I brought my rig home September 4th 2012 (just about 2.5 months ago).

It was a one owner, bone stock, garage kept rig with 84k on it. The only 'modification' (if you can even call it that) is that when the owner replaced the original worn tires, he had 31" Nokian Vatiiva's mounted to the stock Canyon wheels.

This picture is from only a few days after I took it home:


A few short weeks after I took it home, I was plowing through craigslist like a madman and found a number of great deals.

First was a 2" BB with Bump Stops for $60 (in retrospect, I could have gotten this cheaper through the ebay links in my earlier posts on this thread)
The same guy I bought the BB from also sold me a set of 5 Mickey Thompson Classic II's in okay shape for $100.

I installed the BB and kept the stock 31's on (because I didnt' have any other tires at the time) and the slight wobble I had when I was stock was now amplified and downright scary. I put on a new HD steering stabilizer from Napa for $30, and the wobble is gone. I'm sure there's an underlying problem like some play in one of the many ball joints, but I at least bought myself some time.

Two days after the BB was on (which did look damn good with the 31's), I snagged a set of 5 1st Gen Goodyear MT/R's which the seller mounted and balanced to my Classic II's for $450 all in.

I picked up the 33's the morning that Sandy came ashore and started hammering us, but I was able to rip home and mount up the 33's before the winds and rain really started coming in.



The following day I tried to drive down to my boss' house which is right on the water, and the roads had an easy 4-6" of salty muddy sand from the ocean on them. Just trolling at about 10-15 mph and it became VERY evident why I do not recommend a low backspace wheel used with stock flares. I promise you I was absolutely not trying to make a mess.



So, a quick stint on ebay and I found a set of oem style 7" wide flares for $95 shipped and pulled the trigger. They showed up just in time for a weekend, and a few hours after I opened the box, they were on and I never looked back. I admit it did look very cool with the stock flares and the tires sticking way out, but functionally it was a nightmare.



So, not including the many other little accessories and craigslist finds, I'm into my lift, flares and tires for a total of:

Tires: $450 (used)
Wheels: $100 (used)
BB: $60 (used)
Flares: $95 (new; ebay)
Steering Stabilizer: $30 (new; napa)

Total: $685

I bought a t-case drop, but it has not yet arrived. That was $38 shipped from ebay, which will bring my total to $723. Bear in mind this is for a set of 33's. 31's are considerably cheaper and you won't have to buy new flares, so you can realistically be right around $500 with some frugal shopping.
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Old 11-27-2012, 09:45 PM   #44
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Dont forget you will have to re-align your right too, find a good shop, not Mavis type of joints!
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Old 11-27-2012, 09:53 PM   #45
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Dont forget you will have to re-align your right too, find a good shop, not Mavis type of joints!
can you elaborate?
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Old 11-27-2012, 10:08 PM   #46
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I got tired of reading the varied opinions so I will give mine.....If all you want to do is run 31"s you can do that stock.

If you want to lift and run 31"s I did and used OME lift and it rode better than stock.

A lot of people said if you are gonna lift it that much (4") you need at least 33"s.

After running around with the OME lift and 31"s for 2 years I added a BL and MML, with 33" x 12.50" 15" Duratracs on Gragar soft 8's with Black centers, than I added the Bushwaker Flatflares just for looks...man am I happy even though it took almost 2 years to get it done...next 2 mods Tummy Tuck and a great top/

This after OME still on 31"s
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Old 11-28-2012, 12:06 PM   #47
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Don't know about Maryland, but here in CA, the yearly smog certs have changed so that smog shops have specific rpm's to meet in specific gears, so that taking an otherwise stock rig in (without a regear) with too much oversize tires won't pass smog. If that's the case in MA, and you plan on going with 33's, be sure and keep your original tires...you may have to put 'em on to pass smog.
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Old 11-28-2012, 12:55 PM   #48
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No way!? I only moved to md from ca 2 years ago. Since then they've mandated that cars go up on something that you can rotate the tires so you can read exhaust output in each gear!? That's crazy. MD is easy, they just read the obd2.
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Old 11-28-2012, 02:11 PM   #49
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No way!? I only moved to md from ca 2 years ago. Since then they've mandated that cars go up on something that you can rotate the tires so you can read exhaust output in each gear!? That's crazy. MD is easy, they just read the obd2.
Yep...they put them on like a dyno machine and run them at a certain rpm in a certain gear. I ran into it this year when I had mine smogged at registration time.
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Old 11-28-2012, 03:44 PM   #50
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That's crazy
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Old 11-28-2012, 03:53 PM   #51
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Thank you everyone for the opinions! I am getting 4 inch lift and going with a little bigger money budget. ill update everyone soon!

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