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Old 03-25-2012, 09:55 PM   #1
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06 OPDA / cam gear

Hey all .. I have read about this problem with the 05 06 opda and I took mine out to check it and the gears don't look too bad but I do have a ticking noise so I am going to order a new one and do the mods to it so I can grease it.. But what are your opinions on the cam gear pictured ? I have never seen one but it looks worn a little .. Is this normal ?

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Old 03-28-2012, 09:08 PM   #2
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I am having a nightmare with my recently purchased 06 wrangler. I bought the vehicle from a dealers used car lot late last year with 72,000 miles. I drove it very little during the winter but began having the "whining" noise on start up and problems with the check engine light coming on. I thought I did some decent reserch on this vehicle before buying but I don't remember anything about the OPDA failures and the "symptoms" I was having should have pointed me right to the problems since I have now found hundreds of posts from people with the same problems. Anyway, while my wife was driving the Jeep, the engine seized up and would not turn over. I had it towed to my mechanic who discovered the seized OPDA (it is supposed to rotate)and the broken and missing teeth on the gear where it mates with the cam. I have been told by 2 dealers that they will fix the problem at my expense. I know there was no formal recall on this issue but there was a TSB issued by Chrysler in 05. Anyone had any luck getting this repair covered by Chrysler

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Old 03-28-2012, 09:43 PM   #3
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Go here & PM this guy. I think he had some success with getting Chrysler to pay SOME of his cost although he didn’t have a complete failure as I recall. 2005-06 Jeep OPDA_CPS_Distributor Failure - Page 195 - JeepForum.com
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Old 03-29-2012, 08:46 AM   #4
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would this be covered under warranty? i bought a fairly extensive warratny with mine and i think it would pay for it.
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Old 03-29-2012, 12:41 PM   #5
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Only way to tell if the warranty will cover it is to have the dealer make the call to them and ask. And I would have em do it ASAP!

That cam gear looks bad. Ditto the OPDA gear.

Bummer on that. But at least you caught it before it went boom.

Best of luck!
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Old 03-29-2012, 01:17 PM   #6
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Only way to tell if the warranty will cover it is to have the dealer make the call to them and ask. And I would have em do it ASAP!

That cam gear looks bad. Ditto the OPDA gear.

Bummer on that. But at least you caught it before it went boom.

Best of luck!
do you think its bad enough that it needs replaced ?
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Old 03-30-2012, 01:52 PM   #7
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Everyone has an opinion on that, it seems. There is definitely wear on the cam gear teeth. They aren’t razor thin but looks like the surface is pretty rough. That may (probably will) cause problems but for what is involved in cam replacement I would go with it & monitor it. As for the OPDA, does it spin freely? I would remove the roll pin & gear & push the shaft out & see what it looks like. If too bad, replace the entire OPDA, if not too bad, lube the shaft, consider modding the unit for lubrication & get a new gear from Crown & put it back in. The gear is about $25 from 4 Wheel Parts. Then you are back on the road for cheap & see how long it lasts. That is what I did on mine although my cam gear wasn’t as bad as yours looks. So far, so good. If the cam gear eventually eats up the OPDA gear, then I will deal with it. If you go with the Crown gear, here is my report on what I did to install it.

2005-06 Jeep OPDA_CPS_Distributor Failure - Page 125 - JeepForum.com
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Old 03-30-2012, 02:17 PM   #8
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Everyone has an opinion on that, it seems. There is definitely wear on the cam gear teeth. They aren’t razor thin but looks like the surface is pretty rough. That may (probably will) cause problems but for what is involved in cam replacement I would go with it & monitor it. As for the OPDA, does it spin freely? I would remove the roll pin & gear & push the shaft out & see what it looks like. If too bad, replace the entire OPDA, if not too bad, lube the shaft, consider modding the unit for lubrication & get a new gear from Crown & put it back in. The gear is about $25 from 4 Wheel Parts. Then you are back on the road for cheap & see how long it lasts. That is what I did on mine although my cam gear wasn’t as bad as yours looks. So far, so good. If the cam gear eventually eats up the OPDA gear, then I will deal with it. If you go with the Crown gear, here is my report on what I did to install it.

2005-06 Jeep OPDA_CPS_Distributor Failure - Page 125 - JeepForum.com
well i did already buy the opda and the parts for the oil cup mod.. just got everything yesterday.. i dont have the tools so im looking for a shop (which i know a few places that would do it for me reasonable) to do the drilling and taping and ill put the new unit on.. i under stand the cam gear will weat the opda gear.. but i dont have the loot now to do the cam.. im thinking about getting one of those after market type extended warantys.. i have a buddy that has a used carlot and i can get one thats like $650 for 3 years .. and if nothing breaks by year 2 ill start the process and see if i can get them to replace the cam gear for me.. i figured replacing the gear would atleast cost that with labor..

what mod did you do .. grease fitting or oil cup ?
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Old 03-30-2012, 02:54 PM   #9
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what mod did you do .. grease fitting or oil cup ?
I'm gonna do the grease zerk. Grease is good enough for wheel bearings, so I figure it should be good enough for the OPDA. The oil mod is probably better though.

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Old 03-30-2012, 03:04 PM   #10
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I did one of the first oil mods & as far as I know the first oil cup mod. My original OPDA was not too bad so I did the mod on that one. I don't drive it many miles a year but so far it has worked great. You can see my modded OPDA in the link I gave above.

Be careful with those warranties. I have read where some have had problems because the OPDA is considered a CMP (cam position sensor) & considered an electrical component & not covered by a "power train" warranty.
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Old 03-30-2012, 04:37 PM   #11
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I did one of the first oil mods & as far as I know the first oil cup mod. My original OPDA was not too bad so I did the mod on that one. I don't drive it many miles a year but so far it has worked great. You can see my modded OPDA in the link I gave above.

Be careful with those warranties. I have read where some have had problems because the OPDA is considered a CMP (cam position sensor) & considered an electrical component & not covered by a "power train" warranty.
well if you did the first .. i applaud you sir when i saw that i thought to myself .. f'n briliant i do have a question though.. i have read over willy's forum for that a few times but i have so much going through my head these days i have a couple of questions about the oil cup method i might have missed.
1- this mod sticking out as it does and not seeming to screw in that far is there any issue on vibration with it being screwed into the alluminum.. any worries on it breaking off basicly..
2- what type of sealant do you use on the threads..
and i know i had more questions but im at work and have been busy as hell today so they are not coming to me right now..
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Old 03-30-2012, 06:41 PM   #12
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On Willy’s thread on page 1 click on Alternate Designs & you will see mine at #3. I’m not sure which posts are linked there but the main 4 that I posted are #1050, #1061, #1443, & #1867. Note the 1st one there. I had my idea then saw that one. I knew mine would work seeing his was working.

1—yes it doesn’t screw in far because there is very little material there & it has to feed in to the reservoir since the oil hole through the bushing is on the other side where the grub screw is. In one of the posts you can see that I put a reinforcing plate above the fitting & clamped it. Probably overkill but I had the same concerns as you. In Willy’s version I don’t think he supported his & don’t think he has had any problems.

2—I used a Teflon sealer like used for plumbing fittings. You can get it at Home Depot or any place like that. It seals well yet parts can be removed if necessary.

Here is another method that I like a lot. Also in Willy’s thread #2656 & #2696 Might be a little easier to build & no support issues.

Not these photos, they are my version.
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Old 03-31-2012, 01:44 PM   #13
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ok i did think of 3 other questions..
1. does that black o ring need to be there ? i bought the parts list that willy listed and not sure the threads on the nipple are long enough for the o ring to be applied also..
2 when i take the gear off .. the pin that comes out .. that can be reused right ?
3 do you have any pictures of the 2 screw heads on that brace that you used inside the casing .. just wondering how far they stick up.. (rounded head top or tapered)or if clearance is an issue
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Old 03-31-2012, 06:46 PM   #14
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1 – mine was the first & the fitting I used did not have tapered threads like the one Willy found. I sealed the threads but the housing is round & I wanted to be sure the fitting didn't leak so I added the o ring + that fitting had a space where the threads ended before the hex area started & that left less area for thread engagement into the aluminum. You won’t have that problem with the tapered fitting Willy found.

2 – very important! The roll pin is reusable but the gear only goes on one way. The hole for the pin is not centered on the shaft but close enough that if you reverse the gear the pin will start in but won’t go through & if you tap it too hard the gear will break. I’ve seen it happen twice.

3 – there is plenty of clearance inside for a bolt or screw head. As you can see from some of the photos, some oil will get over the top of the bushing & into the housing so a bolt in that hole actually keeps any oil from leaking out. (only one screw, 2 different views)

The position for the fitting was chosen so the cup would be accessible for adding oil. It is important to note that you have to tap into the reservoir & it is close to the bottom of the wheel housing. That leaves little room for the fitting to clear the housing & be able to thread it in. If you add a bracket like I did it gets very tight. I ground the fitting down as you can see in the top photo above & it is still close. Be sure to consider that & tap the hole for the fitting as low as possible.

Here is a look at the screw & some oil that accumulated in mine. Also a shot at it installed to see where the cup is located.
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Old 04-01-2012, 08:28 PM   #15
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Where is the best place to order a new OPDA. Mine has completly seized up and has broken "teeth" on the gear and I am waiting to hear from my mechanic about the condition of my cam after he inspects it with a camera. I would also like to have the mod done to it but lack the proper tools, is there anyone in the Columbus, Ohio area that has done this modification? Are the replacement OPDA's still the same bad design? I was reading on some older forums from last year that Crown was possibly making a new redesigned OPDA for the 05-06 wranglers.
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Old 04-01-2012, 10:39 PM   #16
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Nothing from Crown & no improvements in the OEM design. If the gear broke I'm sure you will need a cam as well.

Good prices here http://www.mopar-wholesale.com/oemcatalog

PM Willy from his thread here. He is in the Baltimore area. He may be able to help you with the mod. 2005-06 Jeep OPDA_CPS_Distributor Failure - JeepForum.com
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Old 04-02-2012, 08:09 AM   #17
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Thanks for the info Rubi. I was told by my mechanic to be prepared for the possibility of having to replace the cam after he saw the damage on the OPDA. I've been without the vehicle now for 4 weeks while trying to work with 2 dealers on a warranty repair but it appears that that is not going to happen so will tell my mechanic to get started on it today. I will let my mechanic know about the mods and see if he can do them if I get the parts.
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Old 04-02-2012, 10:44 AM   #18
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Page I'm sorry to hear about what happen .. Did you have any warning signs? Ticking or laughing monkey sounds ?
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Old 04-02-2012, 10:45 AM   #19
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I got my replacement from local dealer and was around 175 for reference .. Dont forget the gasket
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Old 04-02-2012, 03:42 PM   #20
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Rubi I have another question.. now i have a ticking sound and I am pretty sure its coming from the OPDA .. Now I know they are suposed to have play up and down but when I am holding it in my hands and moving it up and down the click that it makes sounds like the ticking im hearing wile im driving and trying to eliminate.. has anyone put a washer between the gear and the thrust bearing above the gear to eliminate that up and down play.. or is that play in the unit required?
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Old 04-02-2012, 05:58 PM   #21
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I just put $ down on a 2005 Unlimited with 81K and am getting the financing done, then I came across this thread and the one over on Jeepforum! Arrgg. I noticed that the OPDA looked like it had been replaced when I was looking under the hood....Hmmm, "S" in the 8th position, so it was probably modded when new. Engine seems to start fine, no ticks, and runs strong. Its a really sharp looking LJ. Crossing fingers.

Well, I pick it up Saturday, and on Sunday I'll be pulling the OPDA to take a look at what I bought. Comes with 90 day warranty, and I can purchase 3 years for $1000, but if you read the fine print on those things, they are about worthless.

I got the shop facilities to replace the cam if and when it comes to that, and hopefully thats not for a long time!

Once they are modded with the grease fitting or oil cup, does the gear wear go away? (in other words, if you installed a new cam, and new OPDA and maintained it, is that the end to the issue?

How come no company has come up with a ignition trigger that runs off the ballancer? Then you could throw a pre 05 piece in the hole just to drive the oil pump. I suppose the '05 is new enough that the computer rules the engine and you can't go too far without going all the way back to a carb and distributor....
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Old 04-02-2012, 06:08 PM   #22
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mine hasnt failed on me yet. it was changed at 53k miles with the PO. in some months they where made there is a recall. i cant recall what months they are tho. keepin my fingers crossed on mine!
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Old 04-02-2012, 06:52 PM   #23
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Rubi I have another question.. now i have a ticking sound and I am pretty sure its coming from the OPDA .. Now I know they are suposed to have play up and down but when I am holding it in my hands and moving it up and down the click that it makes sounds like the ticking im hearing wile im driving and trying to eliminate.. has anyone put a washer between the gear and the thrust bearing above the gear to eliminate that up and down play.. or is that play in the unit required?
The 4.0 is notorious for ticking. Some have had ticking & it has gone away after replacing their OPDA but that is not a problem normally associated with this. As to the up-&-down (end play) movement, there is supposed to be between 0.010” & 0.030” end play. As far as the movement causing noise, I have checked mine with a dial indicator on the shaft & with the engine running I find that the shaft rises up against the thrust washer & stays there under any conditions I could give it. That tells me that there in no up-&-down movement when running so I don’t see how THAT is causing the ticking some (not me ) are getting. The end play is adjustable if needed. I think mine is 0.026”.


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I just put $ down on a 2005 Unlimited with 81K and am getting the financing done, then I came across this thread and the one over on Jeepforum! Arrgg. I noticed that the OPDA looked like it had been replaced when I was looking under the hood....Hmmm, "S" in the 8th position, so it was probably modded when new. Engine seems to start fine, no ticks, and runs strong. Its a really sharp looking LJ. Crossing fingers.

Well, I pick it up Saturday, and on Sunday I'll be pulling the OPDA to take a look at what I bought. Comes with 90 day warranty, and I can purchase 3 years for $1000, but if you read the fine print on those things, they are about worthless.

I got the shop facilities to replace the cam if and when it comes to that, and hopefully thats not for a long time!

Once they are modded with the grease fitting or oil cup, does the gear wear go away? (in other words, if you installed a new cam, and new OPDA and maintained it, is that the end to the issue?

How come no company has come up with a ignition trigger that runs off the ballancer? Then you could throw a pre 05 piece in the hole just to drive the oil pump. I suppose the '05 is new enough that the computer rules the engine and you can't go too far without going all the way back to a carb and distributor....
If it has been modded you will see either a grease fitting or oil cup sticking out from the housing somewhere. See page 1 of my link in post #16 above.

It is believed that shaft binding causes drag that leads to gear wear but there have been gear problems where the shaft spins freely so no one knows why some gears wear a lot & others have 100k miles & no problems. What is clear is that modding for lubricating the top bushing cuts down or eliminates shaft binding. May or may not cure excessive gear wear.
Some blame lack of ZDDP in modern oil as contributing to the gear wear.


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mine hasnt failed on me yet. it was changed at 53k miles with the PO. in some months they where made there is a recall. i cant recall what months they are tho. keepin my fingers crossed on mine!
Never a recall for this. SOME early ’05 (mine included) had a service bulletin (TSB) to replace some bad gears. That didn’t keep mine or at least one other person that I know of from having shaft binding & excessive gear wear after a few thousand miles.
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Old 04-02-2012, 07:03 PM   #24
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The 4.0 is notorious for ticking. Some have had ticking & it has gone away after replacing their OPDA but that is not a problem normally associated with this. As to the up-&-down (end play) movement, there is supposed to be between 0.010” & 0.030” end play. As far as the movement causing noise, I have checked mine with a dial indicator on the shaft & with the engine running I find that the shaft rises up against the thrust washer & stays there under any conditions I could give it. That tells me that there in no up-&-down movement when running so I don’t see how THAT is causing the ticking some (not me ) are getting. The end play is adjustable if needed. I think mine is 0.026”.




If it has been modded you will see either a grease fitting or oil cup sticking out from the housing somewhere. See page 1 of my link in post #16 above.

It is believed that shaft binding causes drag that leads to gear wear but there have been gear problems where the shaft spins freely so no one knows why some gears wear a lot & others have 100k miles & no problems. What is clear is that modding for lubricating the top bushing cuts down or eliminates shaft binding. May or may not cure excessive gear wear.
Some blame lack of ZDDP in modern oil as contributing to the gear wear.




Never a recall for this. SOME early ’05 (mine included) had a service bulletin (TSB) to replace some bad gears. That didn’t keep mine or at least one other person that I know of from having shaft binding & excessive gear wear after a few thousand miles.
that must have been what it i was. mine falls into this TSB i think feb to march or april, no?
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Old 04-02-2012, 07:16 PM   #25
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that must have been what it i was. mine falls into this TSB i think feb to march or april, no?
I think that is about right. Remember I had it done & still had issues at less than 25,000 miles.
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Old 04-02-2012, 07:36 PM   #26
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I'm just hoping/praying/crossing everything that they didn't just slap a new OPDA in there on a 1/2 warn cam gear to "get 'er out the door" and once its 30 days old its my problem.
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Old 04-02-2012, 07:39 PM   #27
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Beaker,
Yes, I did have warning signs. The laughing monkey was laughing at me for about a month prior to the OPDA seizing up.I did not have any ticking sounds that I remember. I only drove it maybe a half dozen times or so in that time period and thought it was a bad belt pully or something like that. The check engine light would also come on sometimes amd then other times it would not. I wish I would have gotten on a forum such as this before hand and found the bigger problem. I guess my thinking was that this is a Jeep, it will go forever. I was wrong. BTW, my mechanic was telling me today that the 4.0L engine in the Jeep was not made by Jeep or Chrysler. Anyone know anything about that?
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Old 04-12-2012, 11:43 AM   #28
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Oil cup mod done and ready to go !! Will be installing tonight as long as I get the brace done
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Old 04-12-2012, 12:28 PM   #29
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Looks good . I just got my Aeroshell, so mine will be going in this weekend.

Keith
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Old 04-12-2012, 03:53 PM   #30
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Brace done.. Install tonight

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