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Old 01-05-2011, 05:46 PM   #1
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160 Amp Durango Conversion

This is the installation of a 160 amp alternator I installed on my 2003 Jeep Wrangler. This alternator came from a salvaged 2006 Dodge Durango with 60,000 miles, from an online salvage yard company called Pam’s Automotive, http://www.pamsauto.com/. It only cost me $25 for the alternator and $15 for the shipping. I checked around my local salvage yards but either they didn’t have one or they were charging over $50. So check your area first and you may find a good deal without having to pay for the shipping. I’m hoping that this will help anyone else trying to upgrade their alternator without spending big money on aftermarket units.

*NOTICE* I do not know all the conversions for all the years of Jeep’s or Durango’s that will match. I spent several hours doing research before I purchased this alternator. I’ve found that the 2001 – 2006 Durango 4.7L V8 and the 2004 3.7L have the 160 amp alternator that worked with my setup.

*INSTALATION* this is a rough guide as to how I installed this alternator, yours may vary.
1) Disconnect the positive and negative battery terminals first, then the alternator power cable and electrical plug.

2) Using a serpentine belt tool or a breaker bar in my case, remove the serpentine belt.

3) Remove the two bolts that hold the alternator in place and remove factory alternator.

4) Install the 160 amp alternator; it took some finessing and patients to get the alternator in. I ended up having the file some of the factory alternator bracket in order for the new one to fit. Be patient and take your time, you don’t want to damage your new alternator.

*NOTE* The Durango alternator has an extra bracket on top of the unit, it does not come into contact with the factory ignition coil but may interfere when trying to remove the it.

5) Reattach factory serpentine belt and check that everything is secure and in place.

6) Follow the factory alternators red power wire that leads to the fuse box. Mine started red and went
to green when it entered the fuse box, your may vary. Cut the green wire and remove the rest of the wire.

7) Take a piece of 4 gauge wire about 25 inches or longer; I picked mine up at AutoZone for a few bucks, and attach it to the new alternator.

8) Unscrew one of the two bolts that hold the stock alternator and battery wire, and attach the other end of 4 gauge wire to it.

9) Reattach the positive and negative battery cables and double check that everything is tight and secure.

10) You’re done!

If you have any questions or comments please feel free to share.
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Old 01-05-2011, 05:47 PM   #2
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Old 01-05-2011, 10:03 PM   #3
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nice. Do you think grinding off the extra tab would be beneficial for changing plugs?
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Old 01-05-2011, 10:21 PM   #4
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On number 7, the 4 gauge wire, that is the black one? Replacing your green wire? I assume a heavier wire for the higher amperage?
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Old 01-06-2011, 08:59 AM   #5
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nice. Do you think grinding off the extra tab would be beneficial for changing plugs?

It probably would, that way you dont have to try and wrestle around it. I would have but i was installing this yesterday in 10 degree weather and i got really cold so i just wanted to get it on, plan on doing it later down the road.
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Old 01-06-2011, 09:01 AM   #6
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On number 7, the 4 gauge wire, that is the black one? Replacing your green wire? I assume a heavier wire for the higher amperage?

yes the black 4 guage wire is replacing the factory alternator wire which is red at the alternator and switches to green when it enters the fuse block. And the bigger wire is for the higher amps, the factory wire wasnt made to hand over twice the amps.
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Old 01-16-2011, 10:06 PM   #7
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I was in a pick a part looking at a Dodge 1500 van with the 136amp alternator when I double checked the part numbers and came across your post. I read about the 160amp mod but heard it wouldn't work for some. But I also have a 2003. That site you provided have some good prices. I would rather pay an extra 20 than spend another full day searching for the right dodge, also there were very few out there anyway. On a side note I grabbed a Taurus fan and a spare set of d30 shafts, so wasn't a wasted day.
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Old 01-16-2011, 11:51 PM   #8
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Was doing some cross referencing and found a pretty big list of vehicles that use this 160amp alternator.

ASPEN 07-09 (160 amp), 4.7L
COMMANDER 06-10 3.7L
COMMANDER 07-09 4.7L
DODGE 1500 PICKUP 09-10 3.7L
DODGE 1500 PICKUP 09-10 4.7L
DURANGO 01-03 4.7L, 160 amp
DURANGO 04 3.7L and 4.7L, 160 amp
DURANGO 05-06 4.7L
DURANGO 07-08 4.7L, 160 amp
DURANGO 09 3.7L and 4.7L, 160 amp
GRAND CHEROKEE 07-09 3.7L and 4.7L
GRAND CHEROKEE 10 3.7L
LIBERTY 02-04 3.7L, 160 amp
LIBERTY 06 3.7L, 160 amp
LIBERTY 07 (3.7L), 160 amp
LIBERTY 08-09 (3.7L)
LIBERTY 10 (3.7L), 160 amp
NITRO 07-10 3.7L


Other good info

Interchange Part Number: 601-00908C
Manufacturer Part Number: 56041693AE

I found the list on a ebay seller page so I kinda doubt it's credibility but from what other searching I have done I have not disproved any of it. I found a '10 Liberty 160amp alternator that has only 13k on it that I am going to try. Thanks alot on that website. It has some really good prices for all the work you don't have to do. 30 bucks for a practically new alternator that is almost a 40% increase in power over my 117amp
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Just bought a True Hi9 rear and a D44 front, both with ARB's and 4.88 gears!! Check out the build!
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Old 01-16-2011, 11:54 PM   #9
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The thing you have to remember is the amp rating is the max it will do, and its never at idle or even off idle....its more like 2500 rpm, so unless you rev it up its not gonna do any more than your stocker did. That's the reason aftermarket alternators with that rating are expensive...for instance the one on my trail rig cost me 250.00, but it does 157A at 900 rpms.
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Old 01-17-2011, 12:08 AM   #10
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The thing you have to remember is the amp rating is the max it will do, and its never at idle or even off idle....its more like 2500 rpm, so unless you rev it up its not gonna do any more than your stocker did. That's the reason aftermarket alternators with that rating are expensive...for instance the one on my trail rig cost me 250.00, but it does 157A at 900 rpms.
I understand all that. but a 160amp alternator will put out more amps at idle than a 117amp one. I also know that I will probably never see 160 amps from the alternator because 160 is the max at optimum conditions. But I am practically guaranteed better amp levels over my 117amp at 2000rpm's. I have an Odyssey battery already, and installing the Taurus fan soon then will be getting a winch down the line. I would much rather be safe than sorry. And if 50 bucks is all it takes to make me comfortable with the extra electrical accessories I am putting on then I am going to do it.

PS: do you have the Mean Green alt or what? That 157a rating is crazy!
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Old 01-17-2011, 08:47 AM   #11
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Nah I haven't had any luck with theirs, its a modified Powermaster....but I'm gonna be trying out a badder one soon I will do a post on it when I get it.
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Old 01-17-2011, 10:44 AM   #12
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I was planning on installing this on my jeep
Amazon.com: Dorman 55204 HELP! Push-Button Locking Vernier Universal Control Cable: Automotive

The rigs at the firestation that i work at have them to pressureize thier pumps on the tankers. I was planning on using it to gain a couple hundred rpm while winching. and i know you dont get full amps like Ibuildembig said at idle, but i'm hoping that this will help a bit, especially compaired to stock.
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Old 01-17-2011, 10:47 AM   #13
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I was in a pick a part looking at a Dodge 1500 van with the 136amp alternator when I double checked the part numbers and came across your post. I read about the 160amp mod but heard it wouldn't work for some. But I also have a 2003. That site you provided have some good prices. I would rather pay an extra 20 than spend another full day searching for the right dodge, also there were very few out there anyway. On a side note I grabbed a Taurus fan and a spare set of d30 shafts, so wasn't a wasted day.

Yeah they do have good prices, i paid 15 for shipping so a total of 40 all together. they have a section where you can name your price on it and they will send you an email regarding that. I was only able to get them down $5 but i'm not too good at that kind of thing. Who knows you may get 10 or more off.
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Old 01-17-2011, 11:22 AM   #14
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Awesome thread! I was leaning toward shelling out the $$$$ for a Mean Green 200A. Now I can apply the savings toward something else!
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Old 01-17-2011, 11:26 AM   #15
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If a taurus fan is close to what a mark 8 fan draws your gonna be upsidedown again. a Mark8 one spikes at 90A on startup and draws a constant 35-45 while running.
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Old 01-17-2011, 11:28 AM   #16
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Awesome thread! I was leaning toward shelling out the $$$$ for a Mean Green 200A. Now I can apply the savings toward something else!

Yeah it saves a lot. Granted the mean green and even the wrangler performance alternators have better amps at low rmp. But for my application it works great.
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Old 01-22-2011, 01:16 PM   #17
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Ok, so I can verify that the Liberty 160 amp alt fits perfectly. The only thing is that the plug doesn't do the same. I filed it down to fit it in but it seems to still not be working. I get very low voltages and a "Check Guages" warning from my dash. Is it possible that it is on the wrong way?

Mike, what did you do with the plug?

Now some pics.

Old amp



New amp



Compared

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Just bought a True Hi9 rear and a D44 front, both with ARB's and 4.88 gears!! Check out the build!
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Old 01-22-2011, 01:33 PM   #18
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Well I tried again just now. Apparently I didn't have the plug pushed in fully. Though I think there is something wrong with the voltage regulator as it was giving 19 volts and in just 10 seconds started cooking my battery!!
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Just bought a True Hi9 rear and a D44 front, both with ARB's and 4.88 gears!! Check out the build!
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Old 01-22-2011, 04:50 PM   #19
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Well I tried again just now. Apparently I didn't have the plug pushed in fully. Though I think there is something wrong with the voltage regulator as it was giving 19 volts and in just 10 seconds started cooking my battery!!

I havent had any problems with mine so far. Did you connect it directly to the battery?
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Old 01-22-2011, 05:18 PM   #20
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I havent had any problems with mine so far. Did you connect it directly to the battery?
I am using the same wires as the old one.
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Just bought a True Hi9 rear and a D44 front, both with ARB's and 4.88 gears!! Check out the build!
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Old 01-22-2011, 05:25 PM   #21
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I think the stock wire isnt ment to handle that kind of voltage. I went to autozone and bought a 4gauge wire for a few bucks. I connected that to the alt and then to the fuse block, elminating the stock wire. Picks are in the original post. Try it and see if it helps
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Old 01-22-2011, 06:08 PM   #22
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I doubt using a higher guage wire would do any difference in changing the voltage. Also, it was only idling and it was putting out way to much voltage. I has to be with a voltage regulator. Do you know if the '03 has an external voltage regulator or a internal voltage regulator in the alt. What is the part number of your alt?

Were you able to plug in the stock 2 pin connector into the back of the alt?
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Just bought a True Hi9 rear and a D44 front, both with ARB's and 4.88 gears!! Check out the build!
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Old 01-22-2011, 07:14 PM   #23
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I doubt using a higher guage wire would do any difference in changing the voltage. Also, it was only idling and it was putting out way to much voltage. I has to be with a voltage regulator. Do you know if the '03 has an external voltage regulator or a internal voltage regulator in the alt. What is the part number of your alt?

Were you able to plug in the stock 2 pin connector into the back of the alt?

Yeah mine was a direct fit for the plug, looked exactly the same as the stock one. You're right on the bigger wire, but its not a bad idea to have it, bigger wire for bigger amps. not sure on the volt regulator but i'll try to find something. here's the number for my alt
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Old 01-22-2011, 07:19 PM   #24
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I found out that the tjs volt regulator is in the ECM and yjs are in the alt. So if you dont have the right plug in the alternator then it could mess up the computer
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Old 01-22-2011, 07:32 PM   #25
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this is deff my next mod
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Old 01-22-2011, 07:40 PM   #26
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this is deff my next mod

Yeah I like it, but you dont get the full 160amp at idle only when the engines revved. Unless you have the money for a wrangler performace alt.
still better than stock tho.
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Old 01-22-2011, 07:45 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by Mike_3303

Yeah I like it, but you dont get the full 160amp at idle only when the engines revved. Unless you have the money for a wrangler performace alt.
still better than stock tho.
What is the increase amperage at idle with this conversion?
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Old 01-22-2011, 07:48 PM   #28
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Around 117 i believe
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Old 01-22-2011, 07:51 PM   #29
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Stock is around 60 right? Pretty good increase then IMO
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Old 01-22-2011, 07:54 PM   #30
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Stock is around 60 right? Pretty good increase then IMO

Sorry, i read your post wrong. The stock peak amp is 117. At idle i'm not sure on either one. I plan on installing this to keep the engine revved up while winching to keep the amps up

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