I have the fuel lines re-run with the wix (waiting on the mpi -6 end) The fuel pressure reg I have was a boost reg Im told and didnt have a return. Im also told it must have a return! So I went with the corvette wix and its built in reg and plumbed a return, summit racing #33737
Also the gauges came in today. I have mounted in a cardboard mock up
I have not decided what material to use behind the gauges, maybe black leather, carbon fiber, or something else
I like your dash. Very much like the way I did mine.
The underside of the guages require enough room for the clamps, so make sure those two main guages are spaced accordingly. Also, I cut my plate on a buddy's water jet, as it was easier than using a hole saw. Be very careful when you cut yours in metal.
Also, what are the 6 holes for? Left, Right, Brights, Check Engine & ??
Thanks man, Yep when ever I have free time , im in the shop lol.
Trying to resist temptation to rush through just to get it running however. Each step I have done I did the best I could and didnt settle untill I thought it would hold up to abuse later , (abuse I know I will do lol) And that reminds me about two other items, fire suppresion, and roll cage! Next winter!
Im really proud of my fan shroud I built from scatch. And its built so that the fan assembly can come out with one bolt lol. I hate those shrouds that are PITA.
I got the dash back in, working on the brake wire system today.
I did some more diging to check what the harness guy told me. He had said 12v to blue/wht wire when pedal pressed. That didnt sound correct to me so I have been looking for confirmation.
Here is what I found on lt1swap.com
Brake Switch Signal - For automatics with lock up converter, the PCM needs signal when brake pedal is pressed. However, the signal needed is opposite how you're brake lights work. The PCM wants 12v+ constant on this wire when brake IS NOT pressed, and OPEN Circuit when the brake IS pressed. If you vehicle was equipped with a lockup trans to begin with, you probably already have the proper normally closed switch mounted by your brake light switch. If you do not, you can use a relay to perform the same thing. On most relays, there are 5 terminals, 2 of them turn the relay ON when provided ground/power. There are then a normally open leg and a normally closed leg on the relay and a supply. By feeding 12v+ on the supply leg, and hooking the Brake Switch Signal wire to the normally closed leg, you will now have the correct signal for the PCM. When the brake is pressed, 12v+ flows to brake lights, tap into this wire, and run it to the relay to turn the relay on. This will cause the normally closed leg to become open, thus turning OFF the 12v+ signal to the PCM. When you release the brake pedal, the relay will turn OFF, and then feed 12v+ to the PCM.
I assume they mean switched 12v is the only thing now.
after that wire I think I will be ready to turn it over and see if it will fire up. (everybody cross fingers lol) If it does its going to be very loud lol, tall metal shop 3" long straight pipe for now, eventually dual flowmaster or magnaflow idk yet
soldering indicator lights tonight
I used hot glue to fix the bulbs in place. I also used the hot glue to insulate the solder and help hold the wires in place. It will have leds for chk engine,brake,4x4 engaged,turn signals,and bright light indicator.
__________________ My Toys
2003 RED Jeep Wrangler X - Can't stop adding stuff and updating.
2014 White Jeep Liberty Sport
2011 Carbon Black GMC Yukon Denali
2007 Black GMC Sierra 2500HD 4x4 Duramax/Allison
2007 Keystone Laredo 284BHS TT
Going to tie trans line to rad and may try first turn over today, maybe.
BUT, The cold air is not here yet and was really wanting to do a test. So is it goinng to cause any problem to do a test fire without the MAF sensor installed??? (its connected just not on the TB, and the TB is just open to air)
Also turning key on I can hear TB and fuel pump prime but I get a odor of bad gas smell, I guessing thats from the a small amount of fuel that had been traped. The fuel in the tank should be good and not that old. But im going to put some treatment in the tank all the same.
Well it didn't fire. Oh well I was hoping it would just fire right up but I knew things never go that easy lol. Going to do standard checks today. The ecu shows no codes and will give vin and moduals present which I guess is good.
I see you used the same gauges I used. You can have them add led for the blinkers ses high beam and brake light.
I like your build. I have the exact one and love it.
I made my turn signal ,chk engine and brake using leds. I wish I had asked them ,oh well
One of my gauges is not responding however. The fuel gauge. I sent a question ticket to speedhut , no ans yet. If I ground out the signal wire needle does nothing, if I plug the config button into the rear of the gauge and hold it while power up, it still does nothing,
I have a tech guy coming thusday to see if I can get engine to fire. I have a bad feeling the harness is going to have to come back out and ship back to fix IDK
Hey a tech question what wire did you tap into for the tach? (On the injector right? but which wire) and what wire on the speedo? Instuctions just say pick one , Id rather know lol
I called speedhut today to get my fuel gauge working. I think its DOA They were helpful and said they would take care it.
Also I asked them about the tac wires and speedo wires. They said to hit the wire on the coil above each inj and to use the only wire that was diffrent than the other two. Im guessing the hot. The speedo they said use the the one thats not a ground.
Still working on first fire up. Checked today fuel pressure 58 psi, noid light nothing, pulled spark plug and layed on block nothing. Maybe the guys thursday can find something. Oh and the cold air intake came in. Im going to have to do moding to get it fit lol . I will post a pic later to get some feed back , there are a couple ways to do it.
I had the guy come by today that had a GOOD scanner. It said VTD password incorrect theft detected. Im betting thats why no fire lol. I talked to harness guy and he said he would fix asap. Im kinda glad the guy found something, i was afraid he would say no codes. Just goes to show you the diffrence in a rented scanner and a good one.
SO I guess the ecu is off to the harness guy and I havent heard from him as to if he wants the harness also. Im hoping its just ecu as taking the entire harness off is going to be a PITA lol
Oh I forgot to post this pic of the trans cooling lines. I thought they turned out ok. I used the oem silverado lines cut them in two un bent in some places and added new line as needed. But I also kept the splices easy to see and work on in the future if need be. And by using the oem lines the end at the rad had short rubber hoes to allow for vibration.