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Old 02-23-2012, 08:44 PM   #121
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cold air intake

Ok while waiting on the ecu to get reflashed. I could use some feedback on the best way to run the cold air.

This option one, it has the advantage of fewer elbows and a little neater. Its also cheaper as all I need to do is cut the main pipe. The disadvantage is that it puts the filter not in the best place for building the box around, and its closer to the headers.


Option 2 will need one 90 deg elbow and a 45 deg elbow. this will put the filter in the best location and will be a better box also. Disadvantage it will cost $80 in fittings and take up more room.


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Old 02-23-2012, 09:51 PM   #122
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I prefer option two. Looks better and it isn't sitting about the hot exhaust.

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Old 02-26-2012, 09:54 AM   #123
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Lowel, can you rotate the intake tube 180 in option 1, putting the filter in the same corner as option 2?
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Old 02-26-2012, 11:58 AM   #124
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roxtar
Lowel, can you rotate the intake tube 180 in option 1, putting the filter in the same corner as option 2?
Tried that and angle is too soon and hits rad.
I think im going at near battery location. I have stuff to do it and could change later if I don't like it.

Update Tracy and I got the brakes working and belly pan lowered.
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Old 03-15-2012, 09:22 AM   #125
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Update from harness guy. He says my ecu started another truck. So he is putting my harness and ecu on that truck this sat.
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Old 03-19-2012, 08:34 PM   #126
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Well IDK if its good news or bad news but the harness guy said the test sat started the test truck. SOOoo IDK if the the chages he made this time fixed it or there is a problem here. (he said he made some chages this time before testing).

So I will but it on and cross fingers. But if it doesnt start being the harness is now tested good and only has 12(+)sw and (-) so not much to check.
Anyway its on its way back. MAybe I should sacrifice a goat or something first.....
Or maybe get a bucket of salt water and pour over hood.
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Old 03-24-2012, 06:32 PM   #127
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Katrina LIVES AGAIN!!! BOOOOWHAHAHA

I will post vid asap

Running great doing test is field now..

LOL I had a bunch of big grins buy forum said no to post LOL
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Old 03-24-2012, 07:51 PM   #128
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Congrats. Look forward to the videos.
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Old 03-24-2012, 08:25 PM   #129
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Quote:
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Congrats. Look forward to the videos.
Thanks
Here is a vid of first fire up. The funny thing is that its running on 7 cly in this vid, I forgot that cly 5 was disconected, But it still sounded good to me LOL
http://s620.photobucket.com/albums/t...-04-48_841.mp4


Here is a pic of why it did not start, the short pink/blk wire is the one I added and ran to a ground, pin 52


and a big thanks to Todd for thinking of it,

TODD MCCULLOUGH
S & S PERFORMANCE
HARNESS AND ECM SERVICE
BELLA VISTA AR
479-696-7778
WWW.LSX-HARNESS.COM
He really went the extra mile to help
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Old 03-24-2012, 09:32 PM   #130
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Wow that looks really good in the jeep bay. I have a 99 tj and going to do an engine swap too, but im thinking about putting a small hemi in there. And even if it was only 7 cylinders it still sounded good. Gratz on getting her up and running.
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Old 03-24-2012, 09:40 PM   #131
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Congrats. I glad Katrina is back to life.
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Old 03-24-2012, 10:16 PM   #132
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Quote:
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Wow that looks really good in the jeep bay. I have a 99 tj and going to do an engine swap too, but im thinking about putting a small hemi in there. And even if it was only 7 cylinders it still sounded good. Gratz on getting her up and running.
Thanks, been a long process (almost a year). I would say the biggest thing you need to do a swap like this is patience, lots of patience
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Old 03-24-2012, 10:19 PM   #133
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Congrats. I glad Katrina is back to life.
Me too, and thanks for all your help getting her this far. Now to fix the alignment. Thats your area of skill.
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Old 03-25-2012, 08:18 AM   #134
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Great reading. I can't wait to do this to mine.
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Old 04-11-2012, 12:25 AM   #135
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That was great, thanks for all of the updates. Your Jeep turned out great! My 5.3 came in today and I will be gathering parts and starting the build in few weeks. I will be referencing this thread often I am sure. I hope you don't mind a pm or two lol.
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Old 04-11-2012, 12:17 PM   #136
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Pm me anytime this is a fun build. I had my first ride the other day with a fellow WF buddy. He was standing at the top of the hill guiding me. As drove by him we both had that grin on our faces that a v8 will do lol.
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Old 04-16-2012, 06:46 PM   #137
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exhaust

Hard to get a good pic but this angle shows how the stock header worked out. It also shows in this pic the heat shield I added to the bottom of the tub. I got a complete piece from junkyard and cut it as needed.



Oh and I had the o2 wire fastened a little better but I was doing some testing lol
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Old 04-16-2012, 07:02 PM   #138
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oil pan clearance

Here is a shot of the oil pan clearance. I would have been below axle about a 1" without the lift. but I wanted the lift away way.


some more pics been meaning to upload



this is what happens if you forget to seal between tc and trans LOL

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Old 05-19-2012, 08:09 AM   #139
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I got my 35"x12.50x15 general grabbers on today. I felt like a kid with new shoes lol.
I will have to be easy on it till I finish 8.8 build up



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Old 08-26-2012, 09:24 AM   #140
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Got axle stripped and painted. Probably better to leave unpainted before welding I know but just wanted to prevent rust. I think it will be no problem burning through during welding. I need to accelerate the axle build so far 6k miles and two all day trips to the off road park at Turkey Bay. So it feels like Im pushing my luck with the stock D35. And bouncing over rocks on a steep hill is harder because Im so easy on the throttle to prevent breakage.

What do you guys think would be the best idea for future front axle upgrades being Im going with the 8.8 rear?



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Old 08-26-2012, 09:44 AM   #141
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Lowell, too late now, but there's a weld through primer available that is made for what you're doing. It protects from rust but is made to be welded through.
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Old 08-26-2012, 12:48 PM   #142
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I didn't know that. I will still need to do some more painting so I will ck if Oreillys has it. I hope to start welding some of the truss stuff today. I had started putting the pinion in but thinking that's a bad idea and will take it back out as I don't want to contaminate the bearings with grinding.
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Old 08-26-2012, 05:21 PM   #143
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Quote:
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I think you would be better off checking cl or another yard for a 5.9 magnum. I got mine at you wrench it for $100.00 and it runs like a champ!
how is it on gas in the jeep ? i have a 98 durango and get around 12 mpg with 33" tires and 3.92 gears. but its much heavier than the jeep
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Old 08-26-2012, 05:51 PM   #144
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Got the truss tacked in place and the spring perches in place
Ya new parts also


I set the angle on 13 deg, the 35 is at about that now so Im hoping thats correct. Then I set the truss level, and I put the cover back on to keep crap out of bearings

The bump stop is going to end up with the nut sticking up, I hope thats correct maybe it will go into the center of the stop, I dont see any other way it could have gone on.

And yes I know work area is a mess, but its a organized mess lol
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Old 08-28-2012, 05:27 PM   #145
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Keep up the good work! Im thinking about doing this same swap!
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Old 08-29-2012, 11:57 AM   #146
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Keep up the good work! Im thinking about doing this same swap!
Thanks. What engine you considering?
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Old 08-29-2012, 08:19 PM   #147
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I really want the 5.3HO (325hp). Its the aluminum 5.3 truck engine. It came in the silverados and trailblazers. Its weighs 90lbs less then the 4.0L. The Iron version is only 30ish lbs less. I would settle for the 4.8 or regular 5.3 if the price was right. I wouldn't mind getting a high mileage engine cheap, and rebuilding it with better parts. LS6 intake, Port-n-polish the heads, and maybe a cam.
I plan on keeping my 6spd too! It will simplify the install a little.
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Old 08-30-2012, 08:35 PM   #148
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I really want the 5.3HO (325hp). Its the aluminum 5.3 truck engine. It came in the silverados and trailblazers. Its weighs 90lbs less then the 4.0L. The Iron version is only 30ish lbs less. I would settle for the 4.8 or regular 5.3 if the price was right. I wouldn't mind getting a high mileage engine cheap, and rebuilding it with better parts. LS6 intake, Port-n-polish the heads, and maybe a cam.
I plan on keeping my 6spd too! It will simplify the install a little.
I looked at doing the alu block one as well, but for me Im thinking if it ever overheated then it would be very bad. Not sure if thats the case or not but it cant be as tough as the iron block IMO. And working out the bugs Ive got mine hot two or three times. What six speed you got?
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Old 08-30-2012, 08:42 PM   #149
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truss question

Im trying to put the control arm brackets on the 8.8 ,

Was thinking the instructions say tack weld and put under jeep. Im thinking fasten the brackets to the arms roll axle under Jeep and tack weld brackets while arm is holding them in place. That way they have to in correct location and will not be in any load.
Agree?
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Old 08-30-2012, 09:13 PM   #150
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I have the jeep 6spd that came in the 05/06 wranglers. My Jeep is a 2005 Rubicon Unlimited. Novak says it will hold up to a good amount of power. I will be running one of their adapters if I do the swap.
I have no idea on the axel. I have never setup one up. If im going to go through that much trouble, im doing it to some Dana 60's! haha

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