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Old 11-22-2011, 08:06 PM   #1
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2" Body Lift

I am getting ready to install a 2" body lift on my 2002 Jeep Wrangler. Can someone please tell me what I am about to get into?? Is this going to be a difficult task?? 8 hours, 16 hours.....is there a time frame??

Also, I bought an In Dash Navigation CD/DVD player only to find out that it can't be mounted without a few mods. Has anyone on here done this to their Wrangler yet???

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Old 11-22-2011, 08:09 PM   #2
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Seriously, I'd return it and exchange it for a 1" body lift which is really the tallest body lift that is recommended. You want your Jeep's height to come primarily from a suspension lift, not a body lift. Plus a 2" body lift just creates installation problems in multiple areas not present in a 1" body lift.

It is actually easier to install a 2" suspension lift than a 2" body lift. A 1" body lift can be installed in an hour, maybe 90 minutes since it may take you a while to find all the mounts. The two most difficult body mounts to find are located next to the upper rear shock mounts.

One last hint... don't remove all of the body mount bolts at once. Leave three body mount bolts loosely threaded in on the side you are not inserting the body lift pucks on. That way the tub can't slide out of position to the side while you're lifting it to insert the spacers.

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Old 11-22-2011, 08:13 PM   #3
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Ive actually never installed one. I was wondering how does one usually lift the tub?
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Old 11-22-2011, 08:15 PM   #4
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I was wanting to put some 33x12.50 tires on 15" rims on the jeep. Is a 1" body lift sufficient???
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Old 11-22-2011, 08:15 PM   #5
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Agree 100%,,, took me only 4 hours to install mine, including moving the fan shroud..
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Old 11-22-2011, 08:18 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by srad600
Ive actually never installed one. I was wondering how does one usually lift the tub?
Floor jack, big wood blocks.. Like I said earlier 4 hours including fan shroud, 4 hours cause I have friends that enjoy my tapper,,
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Old 11-22-2011, 08:19 PM   #7
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Ive actually never installed one. I was wondering how does one usually lift the tub?
I use a floor jack with a piece of 4x4 between the tub (under the door) and the jack to give the added required height.

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I was wanting to put some 33x12.50 tires on 15" rims on the jeep. Is a 1" body lift sufficient???
Not even close Shane. For 33" tires, you need a minimum of 3" extra inches of clearance and that's for street use. For offroading, you need 4" of clearance to run 33" tires.

For 33" tires, my least expensive recommendation is a 2" budget boost (2" spacers on top of the springs and new shocks) plus a 1" body lift. That will get you by for street use and occasional easy offroad trails.

If your budget isn't all that restricted, a 3" suspension lift plus a 1" body lift is ideal for 33" tires.
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Old 11-22-2011, 08:22 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shane34
I was wanting to put some 33x12.50 tires on 15" rims on the jeep. Is a 1" body lift sufficient???
1" body and 2" spring might work I'm running 33x11s. (255/85/16s) BFG KM2s
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Old 11-22-2011, 08:22 PM   #9
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What would be the maximum tire size I could get on there with a 1" body lift???
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Old 11-22-2011, 08:24 PM   #10
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You can safely run a 32x11.50 with a 1" body lift Shane. Yep I know that may not make a whole lot of sense but it has to do with tire width too, not just tire height.
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Old 11-22-2011, 08:25 PM   #11
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What kind of mods would have to be made for a 3" suspension lift with a 1" body lift??? I want to take it off road and I want it to look good so the money isn't really the concern here.
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Old 11-22-2011, 08:38 PM   #12
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...... so the money isn't really the concern here.
Uh oH. Now you gone and said it. Get ready!
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Old 11-22-2011, 08:39 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by TJDave

Uh oH. Now you gone and said it. Get ready!
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Old 11-22-2011, 08:53 PM   #14
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Cheapest way to run 33x12.5's?
I used to run a 1.25" Body lift(BL), 2.25" spring spacer lift(BB), with a 1" motor mount lift(mml) to avoid a transfer case drop, and 33x12.5x15. My BB kit did not come with longer shocks, but did come with extended bump stops. All kits seem to be different. I later swapped in 3" front springs due to sagging weight of a winch.

Now it's all different, and I've spent way more than if I would of just waited until I could afford the right stuff the first time. I still have some cheap junk under there that I need to swap out. But, that's another topic....and more money.
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Old 11-23-2011, 04:07 PM   #15
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Old 11-23-2011, 06:26 PM   #16
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getting over 2 in" cause 1000 different problems. 1in is easy and quick. i would also recommend a 1" motor mount lift keeping everything in line.
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Old 01-04-2012, 07:12 PM   #17
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good video.My question is do the body bolts come out as easy as they had it look in that video or are they usually rusted in place?
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Old 01-04-2012, 07:51 PM   #18
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In NY where the roads are salted, they may be seized in place. I'd be prepared with heat and penetrants like Kroil, PB-Blaster, Break-Free, Liquid Wrench. In fact, I'd start with a penetrant days before you plan to do the job to give it some time to work into the threads. Heat can do wonders for helping to get a seized bolt out... serious heat like from an acetylene torch.
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Old 01-04-2012, 08:08 PM   #19
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In NY where the roads are salted, they may be seized in place. I'd be prepared with heat and penetrants like Kroil, PB-Blaster, Break-Free, Liquid Wrench. In fact, I'd start with a penetrant days before you plan to do the job to give it some time to work into the threads. Heat can do wonders for helping to get a seized bolt out... serious heat like from an acetylene torch.
Good ideas.Will I be able to get to the nut thats in the body or will I be heating the bolt? Wont heating the bolt cause it to expand & make it harder to get out?
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Old 01-05-2012, 07:11 AM   #20
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Thanks Leeroy Jeepkins, I was thinking of doing a body lift. That video was a big help.
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Old 01-05-2012, 07:25 AM   #21
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I use a floor jack with a piece of 4x4 between the tub (under the door) and the jack to give the added required height.

Not even close Shane. For 33" tires, you need a minimum of 3" extra inches of clearance and that's for street use. For offroading, you need 4" of clearance to run 33" tires.

For 33" tires, my least expensive recommendation is a 2" budget boost (2" spacers on top of the springs and new shocks) plus a 1" body lift. That will get you by for street use and occasional easy offroad trails.

If your budget isn't all that restricted, a 3" suspension lift plus a 1" body lift is ideal for 33" tires.

Jerry,

When I go my TJ it had 33x12.5 1 1/4 BL and Buschwhacker 6" flares from the previous owner. I drove it for 2 years that way on the street and mild trails. I had no rubbing. I have since added a 2" BDS spring lift.
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Old 01-05-2012, 08:59 AM   #22
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What kind of mods would have to be made for a 3" suspension lift with a 1" body lift??? I want to take it off road and I want it to look good so the money isn't really the concern here.
33's are fit in two common ways on TJ's:

1. 4" suspension lift, with 2" bumpstop extensions in front and 2-2.5" in the rear. Requires a SYE/CV shaft.
2. 2.5" suspension lift, with a 1" body lift, with 1" bumpstop extensions in front and 1.25-1.5" in the rear. The 1" BL usually accompanies a 1" Motor Mount Lift to offset some of the driveline angles.

Either way you go, figure on many of the following components: longer front brake lines, extended sway bar links front and rear, gears, brake and steering upgrades to accommodate larger tires, SYE, CV shaft, bumpstop extensions, new shocks, adjustable track bars, and a rear track bar bracket.

32x11.50 is kind of a funky size, like 33x10.50 and a few others...stick with 31x10.50R15 if you do just the 1" BL, there are far more abundant options as far as brands, treads, cost, etc in that size. FWIW, a 1-1.25" BL with 31x10.50R15's is a great combination....I ran that for several years with a tummy tuck and engine skid, and wheeled the heck out of it.
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Old 01-05-2012, 09:28 AM   #23
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My 97 has a 2.5" Rancho lift with a 2.25" JKS BL and 1"MML. Serial number on springs match a 3" to 3.5" lift so I go some extra. Al new Lower control arms and new rear Bumpstops (that I added anoth inch to) new relocation Bracket for rear Trackbar and a Front JKS Adjustable Trackbar. Added new front bumpstops (2" + on the low pads and Also JKS Quicker Disconects up front. The PO had just started to rebuild the TJ, had got as far a putting on Bigger Brakes and longer Break lines (give him credit, he was thinking the importants things first) when him family quickly became one more. I guess his wife wanted a family car. But, outside of breaks and breaklines I have gotten my TJ to where it is by Myself (having some other mechanical work done along the way by a mechanic I can trust) but it took time. If you want it done right it's going to take time. things I still need: Gas Tank Skid, Oil Pan Skid Rock Bars which I just haven't put on yet etc. The wants take up a bigger list Bought the Jeep in May and here are pictures from then to now:







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Old 01-05-2012, 11:46 AM   #24
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My wrangler came to me with a 3 in that I'm going to be removing 1st chance i get for a suspension lift... body lift dosent really do much since your frame and undercarage pretty much stay in the same place... also make sure you get your gas filler tube right... mine was kinked in the process and now takes for ever to fill because it keeps shutting off.
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Old 01-05-2012, 01:41 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by Pontiackid87
My wrangler came to me with a 3 in that I'm going to be removing 1st chance i get for a suspension lift... body lift dosent really do much since your frame and undercarage pretty much stay in the same place... also make sure you get your gas filler tube right... mine was kinked in the process and now takes for ever to fill because it keeps shutting off.
Mine also came with a 3. But to get stock bushings and everything u need is around $400. BL do have a purpose. Tire clearance.

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