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Old 06-08-2010, 03:34 PM   #1
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2 Jeeps, same year, what to do

I think that I have narrowed it down to 2 Jeeps. Here is the issue, the cheaper one is from and Individual and the other is from a Dealer. The less expensive one has a Carfax showing 3 owners one of which was near Boston. This scares me as I do not feel comfortable buying a car that could have potential rust from the salt/ snow.

The one from the dealer has spent its life around the south. Is this a deciding factor for most, or is it a big deal to worry about?

2001 5 speed 6 cyl hard top
$9k, 80k miles

2001 5 speed 6 cyl hard top
$12k, 75k miles (dealer)

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Old 06-08-2010, 03:35 PM   #2
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buy both. okay next question?

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Old 06-08-2010, 03:38 PM   #3
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Actually in all seriousness, potential rust means rust you should be able to see. Check ALL over the Jeep, inside, outside, underneath the carpet etc. It's rare (but of course possible) that you're going to find some hidden undetectable spot down that is going to rust your Jeep completely apart in a matter of months.

For me, if the Jeep isn't showing the signs of cancer, then it's not a concern to me. $12k is a lot for a 2001, but it does give you some wiggle room. The saving grace for both is that mileage is practically brand new. For me, I'd look into the $9k slightly more, and not base it so much on the rust if there is little to rust. Some surface rust wouldn't be a turn off to me (sanding and painting is a ten minute job) but of course I live in the north so it's something I deal with and expect.
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Old 06-08-2010, 03:46 PM   #4
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My Jeep has spent its entire existence near boston (9 years), and there aren't any signs of rust anywhere. Inspect them both thoroughly, and get which ever one picks you.
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Old 06-08-2010, 04:03 PM   #5
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I guess it is just something that people tell you down here in Texas to worry about. We see snow maybe once every other year so we only have to worry about the salt water rust from the ocean.
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Old 06-08-2010, 04:09 PM   #6
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Can you somehow determine if one of those two TJs has the highly desirable stronger optional Dana 44 rear axle? If one of them does, that would be the one I would buy.

I would lean more towards the southern Jeep, less chance of corrosion from salt damage from the salted streets of the north. And that $12K is just what the dealer is asking, he would fall over from shock & surprise if you actually agreed to pay $12k.
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Old 06-08-2010, 04:09 PM   #7
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Lonur: You know what's even worse? A day or two after you FINALLY pull the trigger and buy your Wrangler, the absolute perfect one will suddenly appear before your eyes.

Don't worry, that happens to all of us. Heck, I've been banned from looking at Craigslist after I've purchased something. My wife gets mad when I start bitchin' and moanin.'
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Old 06-08-2010, 04:17 PM   #8
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LOL Geoff. That is the truth. I'm looking at both tonight after work. The dealer would probably drop down a grand but not sure if they would go to 9k. That is worth a try, but I'm not sure. Now, if they will give me more for my paid off car, that's a different story.

Here are the two pics. Silver is at Dealer.
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Old 06-08-2010, 04:24 PM   #9
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12 seems awfully high, go in and lowball the dealer, two can play that game! Or after more inspection, make the other owner a reasonable offer. When we sell stuff, it's expected that folks are gonna make offers. Just depends on how bad the seller wants to be rid of it. It cracks me up when people tell me what a great deal they got and only saved a few bucks. Everythings negotiable!
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Old 06-08-2010, 04:25 PM   #10
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$12K may be a little steep from the dealer, but ya gotta think too, is the dealer offering a warranty? It would be a pisser to get the one from a private seller and then a few days later have a tranny drop or someting else that could cost big bucks. No matter which one don't buy unless they will let you take it to another mechanic if you are not inclined for a self exam...
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Old 06-08-2010, 04:30 PM   #11
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From those pictures it looks like you'd have trouble telling them apart on a dark night.

Here's a page with the 2001 option and packages. As Jerry pointed out above, the bigger Dana 44 axle is the hidden cherry with some of these Jeeps. with any luck, they'll still have the window sticker.
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Old 06-08-2010, 04:49 PM   #12
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I guess there is no way of knowing about the DANA 44 without them havein paperwork on it right?
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Old 06-08-2010, 04:52 PM   #13
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check this identification chart... it may help:
Axle Identification Chart
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Old 06-08-2010, 04:53 PM   #14
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If it has a metal plug on the differential, then it is D44. If it has a rubber plug, then it is D35.
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Old 06-08-2010, 05:05 PM   #15
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That link shows that all "Sport" packages came with the dana44.
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Old 06-08-2010, 05:19 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lonur1 View Post
That link shows that all "Sport" packages came with the dana44.
That is not true! D44 in Sports package was an optional upgrade.

Where does it say that? This is from that link ...
Quote:
DANA 44
All domestic manufacturers have used Dana axles, and the 44, with its 8 1/2-inch ring gear, is likely to be a step up on anything smaller than a 1/2-ton. A narrowed 44 could be the hot ticket for vehicles smaller than a full-size sport-utility. It was standard under the front of pre-1976 Chevy Blazers and 1/2-tons, solid front-axled F-150s and Broncos, and Jeep J-10/J-20s and Grand Wagoneers.
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Old 06-08-2010, 05:53 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lonur1 View Post
I think that I have narrowed it down to 2 Jeeps. Here is the issue, the cheaper one is from and Individual and the other is from a Dealer. The less expensive one has a Carfax showing 3 owners one of which was near Boston. This scares me as I do not feel comfortable buying a car that could have potential rust from the salt/ snow.

The one from the dealer has spent its life around the south. Is this a deciding factor for most, or is it a big deal to worry about?

2001 5 speed 6 cyl hard top
$9k, 80k miles

2001 5 speed 6 cyl hard top
$12k, 75k miles (dealer)


Its all up to you. Mine spent its whole life in NJ and now resides in pa. I hasve some light surface rust but nothing threttning.
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Old 06-08-2010, 07:36 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lonur1 View Post
I think that I have narrowed it down to 2 Jeeps. Here is the issue, the cheaper one is from and Individual and the other is from a Dealer. The less expensive one has a Carfax showing 3 owners one of which was near Boston. This scares me as I do not feel comfortable buying a car that could have potential rust from the salt/ snow.
Oh man you arent kidding, mine has spent it's entire life in boston and this baby is a rust machine.

Just imagine this all over the chassis and pretty much everywhere. Thats why I call her Rusty.


(Oil Pan Area)
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Old 06-08-2010, 08:00 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lonur1 View Post
That link shows that all "Sport" packages came with the dana44.
If that link actually says that, it is wrong. The Dana 44 was strictly an optional upgrade for any of the TJs sold around the U.S. Only the Rubicon came stock with Dana 44 axles.
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Old 06-08-2010, 08:25 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
The Dana 44 was strictly an optional upgrade for any of the TJs sold around the U.S. Only the Rubicon came stock with Dana 44 axles.
Not that it is being considered for purchase here,
but the D44 was standard in the rear of the '04 - '06 TJ Unlimiteds also.
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Old 06-08-2010, 08:27 PM   #21
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but the D44 was standard in the rear of the '04 - '06 TJ Unlimiteds also.
The Unlimited is an LJ, not a TJ.
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Old 06-08-2010, 09:26 PM   #22
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Um Jerry (tapping politely on the shoulder), I think he's actually right. Although we refer to it as an LJ, it's technically a TJ.
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Old 06-08-2010, 09:38 PM   #23
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Lonur: This thread will quickly derail itself, now that it's on to topics like "rust" and "LJs aint' TJs".

So I just wanted to add this comment quickly while there's still hope: any Wrangler like the ones you're looking at will give you tons of fun. Keep it mostly stock, modify it some, or go nuts and build a monster, it doesn't matter - they're fun Jeeps. And you need to go buy one soon.

The other stuff is just trivia. Yes, a Dana 44 is neat and special. No, you don't need one.

Long weekend coming up soon - it would be nice to have a Jeep.
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Old 06-08-2010, 09:48 PM   #24
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My opinion- STAY CLEAR FROM STEALERS, I MEAN DEALERS...LOL.
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Old 06-08-2010, 09:54 PM   #25
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I must say, you guys are just as helpful as my Harley forum friends and I appreciate the comments and help. That said here is an update:

I went to the dealer after work and looked at the silver one, flashlight in tow for D44 inspection. Get this, the Jeep was bought in Canada and all of the gages were in kilometers. I passed.

I'm looking at the blue one for 9k tomorrow. I think it is good deal and after talking to the latest owner it's only seen the beach once, the road elsewhere. He said that it rides better than his car and that it has never been lifted. It's all stock except for the hard top. I guess that means that since he hada soft top at first it should be easy to purchase one for summer use with ease.

If there is no rust I may tell him I'll take it tomorrow. You guys are sure that 80k miles is not an issue and that, if maintained well, I should get many more great miles out of it?
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Old 06-08-2010, 10:07 PM   #26
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Without question. 80k on a 4.0L 6cyl is nothing. If you properly maintain it, 250-300k is a reasonable expectation.
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Old 06-08-2010, 11:37 PM   #27
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Don't fret about the milage. I've seen these inline 6's capable of 150k-170k being negleted. when taken care of =200 +
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Old 06-09-2010, 12:33 AM   #28
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Actually they are both over priced in my opinion. My Bro' just sold his '99 tj limited in great shape with higher mileage for under 5k.... Never been off road and was well taken care of.
It is was Midwestern TJ all of it's life. Everything worked on it, save for the notorious heater switch trouble.

C.
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Old 06-09-2010, 01:18 AM   #29
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You're brother just got ripped off then. I paid $6k for a 1999 w/ 120k miles and I knew the guy, talked him down, and was paying cash. A 2001 could easily be worth $3k more then that for a good year and a lot lower mileage. And what's a TJ limited?

80k miles is fantastic, and for a Jeep Wrangler that's practically brand new. At 80,000 for a nine year old car you're looking at under 9k miles a year driven, beating the 14k average. Honestly, I wouldn't pass on the dealer Jeep yet. Was the rear axle a Dana 44? It's a big deal if you plan on lifting and putting bigger tires on down the line since swapping axles can get expensive. Plus I think the canadian gauges are pretty sick - that will DEFINITELY give you some wiggle room, "Oh, I'm really not into the Canadian gauges and that's going to be a hard sell. Maybe if you reduce the price a little bit more so I can get the gauges swapped properly." In actuality, it's a 30 dollar fix and 10 minutes of your time six phillips head screws, pull the needles, swap 'em out and your golden!

Soft tops are no sweat to purchase, but there are about 3 million parts you have to make sure you have. We can help you out with that when the time comes.

Oh course, if the two are nearly identical then go for the cheaper (and nicer looking IMO) one obviously!
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Old 06-09-2010, 07:54 AM   #30
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Also look at the axle ratio. Many 6 cyl TJs have 3.07 gears. Good for flat streets and mild off road. #.73 or even 4.10 is a better gear, especially if you upsize the tires. Look for a metal tag on the rear differential. There may also be a tag advising to use a special additive. This means it has a limited slip differential.

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