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Old 10-25-2011, 12:03 AM   #61
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simple if your gonna do anything more than minor flexing you only want to go with 31 or most 32's witha two inch lift. with 31 and a two inch spring not spacer lift front sway disconected i can fully extend and tuck without ever rubbing. you can fit 33's but will have cuts in them if you do any real off roading.

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Old 10-25-2011, 12:29 AM   #62
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Get a 2 inch spring and then put a 1 inch spacer in the front and run your 33,s. Then you tires won't look so stuffed and you rake will be level

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Old 10-25-2011, 02:32 PM   #63
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Originally Posted by AFGUY1980 View Post
Get a 2 inch spring and then put a 1 inch spacer in the front and run your 33,s. Then you tires won't look so stuffed and you rake will be level
thats what i was going to but keep my 31's. im a firm believer in having fender clearance at all times. i dont like having any close calls.
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Old 10-25-2011, 02:38 PM   #64
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Originally Posted by svtyone View Post
thats what i was going to but keep my 31's. im a firm believer in having fender clearance at all times. i dont like having any close calls.
You can't have a 'close call' if your bump stops are correct.
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Old 10-25-2011, 03:22 PM   #65
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A newly installed a 2.25" Skyjacker BBL, it's just to get me started. My 30x9.5x15s were bald, so I put this on to fit the 33x12.5x15 Duratracs, it does fine on road and dirt roads/trails, I respect my limitations, for now. My new wheels with 3 5/8" backspacing keep them from rubbing things up front and the rear spring perches. Keep in mind that actual tire sizes vary too, the Duratracs that I got were really 32x11x15.
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Old 10-25-2011, 03:29 PM   #66
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I can agree with most things on this. But 4 in and 33's with proper bumpstop is what is recommended by engineers (smart ppl) or at least supposed to be. I dont see why you would put on a 2 to 3 in lift then a 2 in or whatever bumpstop on to keep from chewing up the fender and tires. You still have very little travel. A 4 in lift set right is cheaper than replacing tires and body parts. Not starting a fight just an opinion and we all have them. My 6 in lift with 35's. The tire still gets to the fender flare under hard flex so i do need a little more on the bumpstop.
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Old 10-25-2011, 03:43 PM   #67
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Adding bumpstop because you run too big of tires with too small of lift is not a good reason to add bumpstop. Bumpstop is fine tuning once you get the most out of your suspension. mostly to keep from destroying things, not just fenders, but others.

I would keep 31s with up to 3 inches. at 3 inches 33s are so/so. I have 33s on my rig, and you can see what I run in my sig.

As mud runner said, its easy to stuff tires with 5 or 6 inches of lift, so 2 just isn't gona cut it offroad.

Okay, so here is how my rig looks on the street. nice little stance, tons of room in the wheel well right? esp compared to MANY jeeps I have seen.



Okay, so here. Looks like plenty of flex right? Nope, still stuffing the other side.



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Old 10-25-2011, 04:17 PM   #68
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You can't have a 'close call' if your bump stops are correct.
that is true but if you install the new bumpstops then you end up with same travel as factory only sit 4 in higher. with the factory bump stops in place i can get full travel more than factory and never rub. ive been 3 ft in the air and fully tucked never hit bumpstops and never even got close to hitting fender. i just dont believe in maximizing tire size when all its gonna do is raise the vehicle but not improve or progress the performance. i dont know im just speaking from what i'm running.plus the gas milage with 33 gets horrible gas milage and is extremely tough on dana 35/30 combo's it just isnt a priority to look like a tonka toy to me.leave room and let the tires move.
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Old 10-25-2011, 08:08 PM   #69
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Originally Posted by svtyone View Post
that is true but if you install the new bumpstops then you end up with same travel as factory only sit 4 in higher. with the factory bump stops in place i can get full travel more than factory and never rub. ive been 3 ft in the air and fully tucked never hit bumpstops and never even got close to hitting fender. i just dont believe in maximizing tire size when all its gonna do is raise the vehicle but not improve or progress the performance. i dont know im just speaking from what i'm running.plus the gas milage with 33 gets horrible gas milage and is extremely tough on dana 35/30 combo's it just isnt a priority to look like a tonka toy to me.leave room and let the tires move.
i get 17 mpgs if I baby it

and I agree with you, but you should hit bumpstops before you (fully tuck) otherwise your hitting suspension components or extending/compressing shocks which is all bad.
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Old 10-25-2011, 08:17 PM   #70
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There's a lot of inexperience/ignorance in this thread along with a few guys that have a general idea of what they're talking about.

Blanket statements that keep being repeated:
Extended bump stops harm overall performance
2" springs are not enough for "offroad", especially with big tires
4"+ is required for 35's

This is on stock rear coils--5" of up travel in the rear
RC 2.5" front coils--6" of up travel
19" @ the belly
96" wheelbase
More suspension work than I care to list

So what am I missing?

Not saying X amount of lift with Y tires is wrong or right. I'm simply trying to eliminate the blanket statements and open some eyes to other ways of doing things.
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Old 10-25-2011, 08:56 PM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Imped View Post
There's a lot of inexperience/ignorance in this thread along with a few guys that have a general idea of what they're talking about.

Blanket statements that keep being repeated:
Extended bump stops harm overall performance
2" springs are not enough for "offroad", especially with big tires
4"+ is required for 35's

This is on stock rear coils--5" of up travel in the rear
RC 2.5" front coils--6" of up travel
19" @ the belly
96" wheelbase
More suspension work than I care to list

So what am I missing?

Not saying X amount of lift with Y tires is wrong or right. I'm simply trying to eliminate the blanket statements and open some eyes to other ways of doing things.

Eyes aren't closed, but for someone taking a stock jeep and modding it, the general rules that have been stated are accurate. You can fit any size tires on STOCK suspension if you want to. literally anything can be done. But if he is only touching suspension and is installing a lift kit, not anything custom, then he needs accurate advice to get him what he wants correctly.

I don't disagree with you that 2 or 3 inches can't be run with larger tires, but with stock fender flares and control arms there is going to be rubbing on one side or the other. And if you do add bumpstops long enough to stop it. you aren't gaining any travel over stock. This may not both some. but the whole point is to gain travel and droop.


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Old 10-25-2011, 09:30 PM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Imped
There's a lot of inexperience/ignorance in this thread along with a few guys that have a general idea of what they're talking about.

Blanket statements that keep being repeated:
Extended bump stops harm overall performance
2" springs are not enough for "offroad", especially with big tires
4"+ is required for 35's

This is on stock rear coils--5" of up travel in the rear
RC 2.5" front coils--6" of up travel
19" @ the belly
96" wheelbase
More suspension work than I care to list

So what am I missing?

Not saying X amount of lift with Y tires is wrong or right. I'm simply trying to eliminate the blanket statements and open some eyes to other ways of doing things.
I have noticed a lot of inconsistencies across the various forums and forum posts. This one seems to have conflicting info too. Maybe you or anyone else reading this can help me confirm my plans.

I'm getting a 2012 JKU Rubicon. Doing some mods.

• MOPAR front & rear bumpers
• Warn 9000 winch
• 1" spring spacer in the front
• Classic 5 hole Jeep wheels 17x9 w/ 4.7" backspace
• 295/70r17 or 11.5 x 33.4 (?) Nitto Terra Grappler AT
• Bushwacker flat fenders
• other non related accessories

My goal is to get some extra ground clearance with the bigger tires. Go wider for looks and traction off road. However, to do so without rubbing, I plan to run flat fenders and wheels. The 1" spacer is to to level & offset weight of bumper+winch.

I know a guy running 35s with 17x7 and 4.25" backspace, and no fenders without any rubbing whatsoever.

Do you have any concerns about this set up causing the tires to rub anywhere? Could I go with bigger tires, say 35s?

My Jeep is supposed to deliver to the dealer next Wednesday or Thursday, and all of this happen within 1-2 days after.

Thank for your for your help.
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Old 10-25-2011, 09:33 PM   #73
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Might want to ask in the JK forum. They are very different on lift VS tire size compared to TJ's.
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Old 10-26-2011, 12:05 AM   #74
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True, lots of disagreement about height of lift, bump stop length and spring length. I am happy with what I have. I don't think anybody is going to agree on anything totally. What one person has and is happy with is not good for another: This is what I have: 2.5" Spring Lift (more like 3.5") 1.25" BL, 1" MML, 2.5" rear Bump stop Extensions, Front 2" extensions, Extended brake lines and BFG 33x10.5 AT's on Crager 15x8 Soft 8's. Also a JKS Adjustable Track Bar and Home made Disconnects. Took a bunch of time on paper, test fitting and calculating before disconnecting and flexing for the first time. I can stuff the tires up into the fender well with touching the stock flairs but yet coming up JUST short of the fender well. That's why I went with 10.5" wide tires. Plus, it rolls with 4.56 gears.
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Old 10-26-2011, 10:49 AM   #75
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Originally Posted by GoldenSahara00 View Post
i get 17 mpgs if I baby it

and I agree with you, but you should hit bumpstops before you (fully tuck) otherwise your hitting suspension components or extending/compressing shocks which is all bad.
you know i dont and i dont see any binding. maybe im not getting full tuck but my bumpstops look like they hardly ever have been touched and i take my jeep out everychance i get and use it not baby it. so maybe i have more travel then i thought. but i have open diffs and maybe i loose traction before actual full tuck. but my tires are in the fender wells. i know on droop my control arms extend fully out then stop on the brackets. i'm just saying from what ive gone thru.. and by the way a 2" spring lift and 31's will get you plenty far off road. ive prved it many time following rigs with 4 and 6 " long arms and had a tougher time than them but made it all the same. its about knowing your rig and how it can be used in unorthodox senerios
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Old 10-26-2011, 02:09 PM   #76
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you know i dont and i dont see any binding. maybe im not getting full tuck but my bumpstops look like they hardly ever have been touched and i take my jeep out everychance i get and use it not baby it. so maybe i have more travel then i thought. but i have open diffs and maybe i loose traction before actual full tuck. but my tires are in the fender wells. i know on droop my control arms extend fully out then stop on the brackets. i'm just saying from what ive gone thru.. and by the way a 2" spring lift and 31's will get you plenty far off road. ive prved it many time following rigs with 4 and 6 " long arms and had a tougher time than them but made it all the same. its about knowing your rig and how it can be used in unorthodox senerios
yep, its possible. the bulb part of the bumpstop actually compresses a bit so it wont show much wear. But all I was saying is they should be taking the force otherwise your putting a large amount of the weight of your jeep on other parts which could break them, which would suck

and I agree, thats why I suggested to the OP to run 31s with the smaller lift he was thinking. 2-3 inches with 31s is an awesome setup offroad. I ran it myself for a while.
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Old 11-01-2011, 02:44 PM   #77
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2" lift with 33 x 10.50 -15" rubs a little on arms at full turn.
This Jeep is the reason I ordered the 2012 in Orange Crush - hope it looks half as good as yours.

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