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Old 05-17-2011, 06:38 AM   #1
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2002 Jeep Wrangler not starting

2002 Jeep Wrangler 4.0L 5-speed not starting sometimes, when I turn the key I get all the usuall dash lights lit and no engine start but after a few tries then it start. I also get on the odometer reading CODE.

I am guessing it may be the clutch switch but not sure 100%.

I have checked the battery and all seems OK, I checked the wires and fuses also seems fine.

Any comments would be helpfull, thank you in advance.

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Old 05-17-2011, 07:47 AM   #2
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No clue on "CODE", But if you are not hearing any noise at all, it sounds like a clutch switch not activating. Take a peak, maybe it's come slightly loose and not making full engagement. Or jump the harness and put a big note on the dash so you remember it will start in gear.

If it seems to work OK then, replace the switch.


Also Jeep is notorious for electrical problems. The plug for the instrument panel (poor connection) is a big one. If you have the time pull the cluster out and check the plug terminals for corrosion and make sure the plug is tight when it plugs back in.

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Old 05-17-2011, 08:20 AM   #3
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not clear on wording-think "not starting" means it won't crank-no starter engagement. About 4 or 5 years ago had same issue with my Jeep. Was sure it was battery - replaced it to no avail. Than remembered that had driven through deep water a couple days before. Sprayed the starter with WD-40 to dry it out-and double checked all connections. Still had intermittent problems for a couple days, but eventually went away. Never to return.

My point is to check and double check electrical connections and switches-even when they "look fine" there can be issues. I would personally suspect the wiring under the hood, before wiring inside the cab, out of the elements.

my .02
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Old 05-17-2011, 01:02 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shelby427 View Post
No clue on "CODE", But if you are not hearing any noise at all, it sounds like a clutch switch not activating. Take a peak, maybe it's come slightly loose and not making full engagement. Or jump the harness and put a big note on the dash so you remember it will start in gear.

If it seems to work OK then, replace the switch.


Also Jeep is notorious for electrical problems. The plug for the instrument panel (poor connection) is a big one. If you have the time pull the cluster out and check the plug terminals for corrosion and make sure the plug is tight when it plugs back in.
I have checked all connection and I have played araound with clutch switch and 99% the switch seems to be a problem.

My other question is how to by-pass the switch so my jeep always start without having to press down the clutch.
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Old 05-30-2011, 12:11 PM   #5
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I am having the same issue. If I hold the ignition to crank it, I have to move the clutch in and out to find the "sweet spot".

If you want to jump a switch, just cut it out of the loop. Attach the wires from each side to each other using some kind of connector.

I will likely bypass the switch as well, if the switch isn't cheap enough.
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Old 05-30-2011, 01:31 PM   #6
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Just remember, that if someone else jumps in the jeep they know it will start with the clutch not engaged. For safety sake, just buy the switch. *


Oh and on your "code" on the odometer. You can read the codes on some jeeps by flipping the key from on to off to on several times. Could be in your aborted start attempts you accidentally kicked it into the read out phase. Let it go long enough and you get a list of P codes stored. P followed by some numbers, for each one. If you don't have any codes, it will read "done" on the odometer.


*Way back I was working on a Mustang at the house. Told the ex to turn the wheel so I could finish installing a mud flap. She reaches in the car to turn the key to unlock the steering.

Turned the key a tad too far. Engine fired up and car backed into the garage, with the driver's door open.

Luckily(?) the door on the Stang caught the garage. It stalled out the car, but not before it folded the door over the front fender.

Yep same thing. Owner had jumped the clutch switch. So much for a brand new paint job.
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Old 05-31-2011, 08:53 PM   #7
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I am going through the same problems now i changed the starter relay all the battery wires and the started and nothing. I also get a code on the odometer and it says "done" and that's about what i am. I just cant figure it out. Anyone can help it would be amazing cuz I'm so tired of driveing my wife KIA to work guys are starting to laugh. I have a 2001 Wrangler.
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Old 05-31-2011, 11:07 PM   #8
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"DONE" is the computer telling you it's run through the diagnostics for codes and finished.

There is another little bug a boo on jeeps. Between the ignition lock cylinder (part you put the key in) and the rod that activates the ignition switch at the bottom of the column, is a plastic/metal gizmo that breaks. When it does it won't push on the rod far enough to activate the ignition switch enough to go to the start position. All you get is the run position, you'll get dash lights working, radio plays, but starter doesn't crank.

That's just for info for now.


With any problem you start with the basics. You got good grounds and power to the starter? Most likely since you replaced all the wires. But go back and check em all, are the new cables on the ground side connected to good grounds, not rusty/corroded metal. Did you clean up the battery terminals and posts? Same for the starter lug where the cable attached?

Got those all right? Now you can take the next step. When you turn the key to "start" power is fed via the ignition switch, through the relay to the starter solenoid.
Also thrown in is your clutch switch and/or neutral safety switch.

First thing, do you have power at the switch? Most likely as if you didn't, nothing on the ignition side would work, like the odometer reading "DONE".

Well give that a pass.

Now go to the other end of the circuit. The starter solenoid.
You'll see the big old battery cable and one or two smaller terminals on either side of it. One terminal is for start, usually has an "S" beside the terminal.

This one gets voltage when you turn the key to start. Hook up a test light to ground, touch the terminal and have the wife turn the key to start. The light should light up.

If it does, and the starter doesn't crank, your problem is there. Either the solenoid is bad, or the starter itself is.

Now if the test light doesn't light up when the key is turned to start, we now know the problem is further back in the system.

Jump to the next "normal" break in it. The relay. Pull it out. Take the test light, and probe the terminals, key off. One will be a ground, one will be 12 volts, one is the trigger, and the other is output. Find the two that are ground and 12 volt. Remember them and ignore em for now.

Take your test light and check the others as the key is turned to start. One should light up. If it does your trigger part of the circuit is working. Reinstall the relay. Put your finger on it, and turn the key to start. You should feel and hear the relay click. If it doesn't you got a bad relay.

If you hear it work, and you didn't have power to the solenoid, you will need to look for a broken wire between the relay and solenoid.

Now then, if you didn't get a terminal in the relay socket that lit up when you turned the key to start, problem is further back.

On to the ignition switch, the next "Normal" break in the system.

There are going to be a slew of wires at it. Start testing with your test lamp, key off.
Eliminate any that have power. Now turn the key to the run position, do the same.
You've now gotten left are wires that should only be powered when the ignition is turned to start. Check each wire as the key is turned to start. If you get power on them, you have a bad wire between the ignition switch and starter relay.

If you don't you "may" have a bad ignition switch. Remember the tip I first posted?
That cheap connection that breaks. Well let's get past that. Pull the ignition switch off the column. MAKE SURE THE JEEP IS IN NEUTRAL AND PARKING BRAKE IS ON!

You'll see where the rod from the column goes into the switch. The switch is a 3 position switch. Off/run/start. It's spring loaded on the start portion, not so on the other two.

Fun part now. Take a small screw driver or punch and push slowly on the the switch, where the rod pushed it. It will click to the run position. Radio should come on, dash lights, etc. Now push hard on the switch to get it to the start position.

If the engine cranks over, your switch is good. Your problem is from the rod up to the ignition cylinder. And most likely that piece of doo doo broke on you.

Dealer will tell you it's not serviced, you need a whole column. BS!!!
That part can be bought from Davey's or aftermarket. It's around $150.00 for it, but beats what a column will cost you.


WHEW!
Also like mentioned before, don't forget to check your clutch switch if you have a manual trans, or the neutral safety switch on an auto. Both are breaks in the starter circuit. If they don't work neither does your starter.
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Old 05-31-2011, 11:46 PM   #9
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Oh well since I'm on a roll, how to check your safety switches.
Clutch is an easy one. Power is fed to it, when the clutch is depressed, it closes a contact in the switch, and power crosses over and feeds the starter circuit.

Check it with a test light for power on one wire. When the clutch is depressed you should get power on the other wire. If not you got a bad switch. NOTE: if your jeep has cruise control, your switch may have multiple wires, or there may be a second clutch switch. What happens there is the exact opposite of what the starter circuit gets. Instead of power transfer, you get a power cut. Voltage will be eliminated when the clutch is depressed on a wire, to kill the cruise.

Again easy enough to check, if you got two switches, check em both. One will cut the circuit, one will power the circuit, when the pedal is depressed.

If you have a single multi wire switch, check for power at the wires, some will, some won't have power. Push the clutch in. The other wires will have power if the switch is good. If not, bad switch.



Lastly the neutral safety switch on an auto trans. Does the same thing as the clutch switch. Only lets power flow to the start circuit if the trans is in park or neutral.

This one is on the side of the trans, where the shift linkage connects to the trans.
Can't miss it. Plastic switch around the shift shaft, with a bunch of wires coming out of it.

Before we check it electrically, play with the shifter. Often the switch will go bad in one position, like park, but will work fine in neutral. Or it goes wonky and may only work part way into park/neutral. So hold the key in the start position, FOOT ON THE BRAKE, while slowly working the shifter back all the way to first, then back up to park. If you hit a spot where the starter starts cranking, you have a bad or mis-adjusted switch. And you got your foot on the brake as it may fire up in gear.

If it's just mis-adjusted, no biggie. Loosen the retainers, have "trusted" wife place trans in park, and hold the key in the start position. Slowly rotate the switch till you hear the starter crank. YELL AT WIFE TO LET GO OF THE KEY!. LOL!

Snug up the retainers. Check to see that it only attempts to start in park or neutral.


If all that didn't happen, you gotta check the wires with the test lamp.

Key in run position, trans in park. Find the power wire. If none, you got a bad wire to the switch.
If you get a power indication, have wife turn key to start and hold it. You should have at least now one more wire with power flowing. That's the one that feeds the rest of the start circuit. If you don't you got a bad switch.


You've now been educated on both diagnosing the starter circuit and the clutch/neutral safety switch circuits, in layman's terms.

There will be a test on this.
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Old 06-02-2011, 07:40 PM   #10
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I figured it out it is the ignition switch that lil piece yall talked about was the problem. Thank to everyone for ur help
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Old 06-27-2011, 03:31 PM   #11
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Thank you for all your inputs to try and help me solve my starting problem.

So far I have put a new 30amp fuse in the number 20 fuse box behind the glove compartment and seems to be working for now.

I have experience once more the same starting problem with the fuse in but after few tries it did start.

The question is: Even with the fuse in to bypass the switch the problem was repeated just once, what can it be?

Any inputs would be appriciated, thank you in advance
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Old 06-30-2011, 05:11 PM   #12
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new starter fixed the problem.
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Old 06-30-2011, 05:18 PM   #13
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Hahaha now that Shelbys fingers have fallen off. Glad you found your problem
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Old 09-19-2014, 03:17 PM   #14
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key cylinder

The ignitioncylinder is locked in the off position. It will not turn from the off - remove key position. To remove the cylinder, the key must be in the run position. The tang is locked down in the off - remove key position, and cannot be depressed. Is there some way to remove the key cylinder without destrying it? How can I get it out?

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