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Old 07-10-2013, 11:19 PM   #31
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No, just leave the track bar in the stock location and save up for an adjustable, if you re-drill the hole and move it the way they say to it will be as far out of alignment the other way. To really center the front axle with the 3.25" lift the track bar needs to be moved about 1/4"-3/8", but this makes the metal between the two holes way too weak, so they say 3/4", which is too far by about a little more than 1/4". So, to avoid a track bar bracket that is weakened with uneeded holes, just leave it in the stock hole and get an adjustable track bar (though be careful not to get the one with the drop bracket on the frame side, you want one that mounts to the stock locations). And driving it until you can get the track bar will be fine, it's only going to be off center about 1/4" and that isn't going to hurt you for a few weeks.

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Old 07-11-2013, 05:09 AM   #32
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I disagree on the steering stabilizer wearing your box out early. I have installed dual opposing steering stabilizers with great success. I agree on the fact that you could be masking the real problem but as far as wearing the box out, I feel that the stresses placed on the steering box from larger tires and hitting bumps with larger tires far outweigh the amount of stress the compression of the stabilizers places on it. If off road with 33" tires and you hit a rock with one front tire. The amount of jarring stress that places on the steering box without stabilizers has to be far more than with them. Ohh well that's my .02 any way.

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Old 07-11-2013, 04:51 PM   #33
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No, just leave the track bar in the stock location and save up for an adjustable, if you re-drill the hole and move it the way they say to it will be as far out of alignment the other way. To really center the front axle with the 3.25" lift the track bar needs to be moved about 1/4"-3/8", but this makes the metal between the two holes way too weak, so they say 3/4", which is too far by about a little more than 1/4". So, to avoid a track bar bracket that is weakened with uneeded holes, just leave it in the stock hole and get an adjustable track bar (though be careful not to get the one with the drop bracket on the frame side, you want one that mounts to the stock locations). And driving it until you can get the track bar will be fine, it's only going to be off center about 1/4" and that isn't going to hurt you for a few weeks.
Hey man I appreciate the advice and I'm deffinttlly gonna take it. I hate drilling iti the frame anyway lol. Well I got 2 1/2 hours and ill begin the install wish me luck lol.
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Old 07-11-2013, 10:26 PM   #34
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It will be interesting to see what you get done in 2 1/2 hours...I think it took me about 6 hours to get my springs/shocks in by taking my time to make sure I did it right double/triple checking everything.
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Old 07-11-2013, 11:08 PM   #35
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It will be interesting to see what you get done in 2 1/2 hours...I think it took me about 6 hours to get my springs/shocks in by taking my time to make sure I did it right double/triple checking everything.
I had another hand helping me. It was 3.5 hours round trip to install the 3.25" RC lift, new wheels& tires then wash it.
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Old 07-12-2013, 01:15 PM   #36
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Well yesterday afternoon was a fail lol. I got all the way to the spinrg replacement and OMG. Auto zone gave me the wrong spring compressor so I was trying to figure out a way to compress them without killing myself. So I went back to where I work and cut two flat 1/2" pieces of steel with a torch, blew some who's through them, and found me some long bolts. By he time I got that all made it was like 1230 at night. So I ended up finishing the front at around 3 am lol. I gotta get it done tonight. This weekend is supposed to e pretty dang nice lol
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Old 07-12-2013, 01:18 PM   #37
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I had another hand helping me. It was 3.5 hours round trip to install the 3.25" RC lift, new wheels& tires then wash it.
Yea there's no way to do this in 2 1/2 hours lol I was saying I'm starting the install in 2 1/2 hours.
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Old 07-13-2013, 01:37 AM   #38
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Well I finally it own and I have a question got everyone. What can be done about shifting gears I can't shift in second and 4th is hard ass hell. What can be done ???
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Old 07-13-2013, 02:55 AM   #39
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did you drop your tc?
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Old 07-13-2013, 06:00 AM   #40
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did you drop your tc?
Yes
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Old 07-13-2013, 07:46 AM   #41
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You can try loosening your shifter Bezel and sliding it back a bit; or you can try adjusting your shifter linkage..
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Old 07-13-2013, 07:51 AM   #42
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I didn't use the TC drop, at first I did, but I took it out and discovered I had no vibrations at all, so I left it out, I never did use the drop bracket even when I used the drop. One of the best things you can do with that lift is get the 1.25" body lift and 1" motor mount lift, if you have any griveline vibrations without the TC drop that will get rid of them.
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Old 07-14-2013, 03:02 AM   #43
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I didn't drop the TC, and have no problems shifting through all the gears..

When you install the TC drop spaces, are sure everything is lining up, might be worth loosen the 6 bolts on the skid plate, just a little bit, the try shifting between the gears.. Once you can find all the gears, tighten it up again

Or

Remove the TC drop spacers ......
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Old 07-14-2013, 09:51 AM   #44
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Well I finally it own and I have a question got everyone. What can be done about shifting gears I can't shift in second and 4th is hard ass hell. What can be done ???
Take your rubber accoridan shift boot off and try it again. If it shift smoothly, then get a $10 plot pleather shiftboot from Autozone.

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Old 07-17-2013, 09:32 AM   #45
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Well I took that boot off and that diddnt help but I dd see what it was hitting and that was the body. So what I do was actually cut the body back about an 1 1/2 and it works perfect now.

Only thing is now is that I accedently broke that little plastic square thing that goes on the bottom of the boot. But I'm gonna try to make something that will work.

Any ideas???
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Old 07-17-2013, 11:28 AM   #46
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Well I took that boot off and that diddnt help but I dd see what it was hitting and that was the body. So what I do was actually cut the body back about an 1 1/2 and it works perfect now.

Only thing is now is that I accedently broke that little plastic square thing that goes on the bottom of the boot. But I'm gonna try to make something that will work.

Any ideas???
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Original Replacement Parts 53000056AB - Shifter Boot Bezel for 97-04 Jeep® Wrangler TJ & 84-94 Cherokee XJ - Quadratec

http://www.amazon.com/Crown-Automoti...rds=53000056AB
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Old 07-17-2013, 10:14 PM   #47
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Old 07-18-2013, 10:59 AM   #48
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Just finished the lift. Hope you don't care how it rides. Lol
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Old 07-18-2013, 11:28 AM   #49
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Just finished the lift. Hope you don't care how it rides. Lol
Ouch , I have 2000 TJ that I just purchased in the shop right now getting some minor frame repairs done and Im having them put the RC 3.25 lift on it.

Lousy ride ?
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Old 07-18-2013, 12:03 PM   #50
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Lousy ride with the rc shocks, now if you get some quality shocks that's a different story..
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Old 07-18-2013, 01:33 PM   #51
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Lousy ride with the rc shocks, now if you get some quality shocks that's a different story..
What shocks would you guys recommend... I have my RC lift for 6 months, and already 2 shocks are leaking... Was thinking of getting them replaced, but might go down the route of replacing the shocks all together..

Bilstein 5100 caught my eye, but seems they only have for a 2" lift... Will these work on a 2.5" lift... Or what other shocks would you guys recommend.. .?
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Old 07-18-2013, 02:06 PM   #52
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Bilstein 5100, Rancho RS9000, and OME Nitrochargers are typical recommend "great shocks".

It's just kinda sucks that RC owners buy the 3.25" Kit for ~$379, then have spend another $350 to correct the problem with stiff/leaky shocks.



WOW - Worst Lifetime Warranty statement ever for shocks! LOL

Quote:
Rough Country Suspension Systems offers a Lifetime Replacement Warranty on all suspension products including Shocks and Stabilizers*. All products are warranted to be free from defects in material and craftsmanship for the life of the vehicle if utilized in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions for installation and operation of said products. Rough Country’s Lifetime Replacement Warranty is non-transferable and may only be enacted by the original purchaser of warranted equipment.
*Note: Some suspension components are prone to gradual wear and tear over time and therefore are not covered within the Lifetime Replacement Warranty. Exclusions to our standard Lifetime Replacement Warranty include wear and tear items such as mountings, bushings, diminished shock and stabilizer dampening resistance, finish, dents and scratches as these components and issues can wear out or occur naturally over time.
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Old 07-18-2013, 07:04 PM   #53
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It's just kinda sucks that RC owners buy the 3.25" Kit for ~$379, then have spend another $350 to correct the problem with stiff/leaky shocks.
You don't, you just have to know what your buying, if you get the 2.0 shocks (old 9000s) instead of the 2.2 they last a lot longer and ride better and they are usually a substitution item, all you do is ask for the 2.0 instead.
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Old 07-19-2013, 08:11 AM   #54
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What shocks would you guys recommend... I have my RC lift for 6 months, and already 2 shocks are leaking... Was thinking of getting them replaced, but might go down the route of replacing the shocks all together..

Bilstein 5100 caught my eye, but seems they only have for a 2" lift... Will these work on a 2.5" lift... Or what other shocks would you guys recommend.. .?
Those are suggested a lot; don't just get shocks that are for x lift you need to measure for appropriate extended/collapsed lengths in order to get the right shocks..

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Bilstein 5100, Rancho RS9000, and OME Nitrochargers are typical recommend "great shocks".

It's just kinda sucks that RC owners buy the 3.25" Kit for ~$379, then have spend another $350 to correct the problem with stiff/leaky shocks.
I like my Rs9000xls, they work great for my needs. I run then at setting 4&3 for normal daily driving use but then when I tow my 5x8 trailer with firewood in it I switch the rear to 5 instead of 3..
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Old 07-19-2013, 12:48 PM   #55
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You don't, you just have to know what your buying, if you get the 2.0 shocks (old 9000s) instead of the 2.2 they last a lot longer and ride better and they are usually a substitution item, all you do is ask for the 2.0 instead.

So you feel the 2.0's are better then the new 2.2's ? I read in older posts before buying this kit that it was the other way around.... hmmmm

Guess I'll just let her drive it a while and see how it goes. Sheeeesh , I should have just stuck with the OME ultimate kit I had my sights on. Talked myself out of it and into putting the $ 1,000 difference into a good paint job considering shes going to be on pavement 95 % of the time.

Guess I could always craigslist the 2.2's and slap the OME shocks on there if the ride sucks.
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Old 07-19-2013, 03:42 PM   #56
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Had a read up on the Rancho, does looks good..

So the shortlist now

OME
Bilstein
Rancho
Hmmm

What I like about the Rancho is the fact that they adjustable ... And better priced than the others
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Old 07-19-2013, 07:41 PM   #57
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So you feel the 2.0's are better then the new 2.2's ? I read in older posts before buying this kit that it was the other way around.
It's not what I feel, RC will tell you this if you talk to them about what your buying. The 2.0 (old RC9000) is a more street mannered shock, valved for a smoother ride and built more for on road comfort, the 2.2 was valved for a more firm ride, to handle more of an off road demand and to stiffen the suspension for a more harsh terrain.

I have had no trouble with the 2.0s off road, I have had them for a little over a year and no leaks no problems and I haven't noticed a harsh ride, though I may not notice it since I don't look for it, I never had any complaint about how the 2.2 rode either, I ran them for over 2 years.

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