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Old 05-30-2012, 12:25 AM   #1
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3" and 33s to 35s ?

I have a 2006 LJ currently have 3" suspenison Lift and 33 bfg Alts. I've got the bug to go bigger now that I am in need of new tires. What exactly is REQUIRED and what is RECOMMENDED for me to be able to run 35s. Add Body lift or new suspension lift? Bigger brakes? Current gears are 3.73 I know everyones going to say to regear, but what would you recommend? I live in Houston. Very flat. Mostly city driving but also make the drive to san antonio (3hour highway) every other weekend. What else? What would i need to do for at a bear minimum to run 35s? I wouldn't do just the bear minimum but just curious. I look forward to your helpful responses. And I'll be upfront I'm not the most mechanically inclined person but working on becoming better with it so base your responses on that fact as well.

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Old 05-30-2012, 07:11 AM   #2
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I would do a 1" BL and 1" MML, then buy some Tube Fenders front and rear. This will help keep the COG low and still plenty of clearance for the 35's. You could get by with the current/stock brakes with the 35's as well I ran stock brakes on mine when I had 35's and no issues with them.

As for regearing do you have Auto or Manual???? Your probably going to need atleast 4.88s if not 5.13s depending on your tranny. If you have a manual you could get away with 4.88s.

Also what axles do you have??? are they the stock D30/D35 combo...

How much wheeling do you plan on doing and the type of terrain as well... that D35 in the rear can be your biggest issue.

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Old 05-30-2012, 12:16 PM   #3
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I love my LJ

You have the D44 in the back so you don't really need to worry about your axles. You will need to regear though, there are many threads on that. I would look at the Black Magic brakes. Who doesn't want more stopping power? If you did Metal Cloak tubes you shouldn't have to worry to much about lift with what you've mentioned. The only other thing I can think of would be bump stops. and I'm no expert where those are concerned. The only other thing I could think of would be your bump stops
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Old 05-30-2012, 12:44 PM   #4
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By looking at your jeep profile, it doesn't look like you'll be ready for 35 inch tires anytime soon. Read this: I want to run 35's on my TJ - JeepForum.com
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Old 05-30-2012, 01:15 PM   #5
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3.73s and 35s isn't the worst thing in the world, I got around just fine
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Old 05-30-2012, 02:25 PM   #6
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Thank you all very much for the responses. I dont think i'm mentally prepared to throw that much money at my jeep all at once to have it done right. But, lets say on my next go around I want 35s...in another 50-60k miles...What you recommend my plan of action be to gradually build my rig up to be able to do 35s the right way?
So how would you tackle this over a 4-5 year period?
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Old 05-30-2012, 03:05 PM   #7
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If you plan on doing it in stages, then I would say BL/MML and the Tube Fenders together. After that I would look at gearing cause to regear it's going to cost some coin, anywhere from $800 to $1200 in labor depending on shops in your area.

Since you mentioned not mechanically inclined your biggest costs are probably going to be labor.

Look at finding a club in your area and look at joining and meeting people. Most clubs and memebers are always willing to help wrench or even have wrenching parties as well.
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Old 05-30-2012, 03:15 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snwchris View Post
If you plan on doing it in stages, then I would say BL/MML and the Tube Fenders together. After that I would look at gearing cause to regear it's going to cost some coin, anywhere from $800 to $1200 in labor depending on shops in your area.

Since you mentioned not mechanically inclined your biggest costs are probably going to be labor.

Look at finding a club in your area and look at joining and meeting people. Most clubs and memebers are always willing to help wrench or even have wrenching parties as well.
This would be your best bet to save money. Building in stages is an excellent idea, and sometimes the only way stuff gets done if money is tight. I would do the fenders first, then brakes, then regear, then when you're ready for the tires buy the BL/MML when you get those (it'll run you less than 200 bucks for both lifts). Doing regears isn't hard as long as you have the right tools and tons of patience. Almost every club has or knows somebody that can do it, if not for free the cheap.
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Old 05-31-2012, 09:31 AM   #9
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I have a 2.5" SL, 1" body lift and DIY highline fenders with 35s. I have 411s and it works just fine with no issues. My brakes are ok, not perfect, but they make the 35s howl when I stomp on them. They wont lock, but that's fine with me. (EBC yellow pads and rotors).
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Old 05-31-2012, 10:03 AM   #10
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Thanks, did you ugrade steering or anything? What rims are those?
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Old 05-31-2012, 03:06 PM   #11
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Thanks, did you ugrade steering or anything? What rims are those?
I put in a new stabilizer, but the old one seemed to work fine. I did install a bolt on the chassis side that was 0.030" larger in diameter so that the stabilizer wouldn't have any play. That cured the little jiggle in the wheel when going over bumps. I have a ZJ tie rod in my garage that I'll install sometime soon. The wheels are hutchinson double bead lock 17" with 35" MTZs.
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Old 05-31-2012, 07:45 PM   #12
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Whoa. Just looked them up. I hope you got a discount on those things. Look sweet though. $$$$
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Old 05-31-2012, 08:36 PM   #13
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Whoa. Just looked them up. I hope you got a discount on those things. Look sweet though. $$$$
haha, no I wish! It was $4k for wheels and tires, but they are dot legal, built by a huge company that makes military wheels, and DOUBLE bead lock. I wanted black 17" aluminum bead lock wheels and there are not a lot of options. The aev wheels were about $300ea, then I would need to powder coat them. Might as well go for the very best.

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