its also worth noting the only way you'll know if the clearances work is to pull the springs out and set the spring pad on the bumpstop cup. thats full suspension compression - both bumpstops bottoming out - testing flex doesn't help. anyone that says they don't have any problems with XX track bar and YY lift, and doesn't need any bumpstops is plain wrong.
here's my Jeep flexed out. looks awesome right?
^That drivers side tire is nowhere close to stuffed, and the track bar is resting on the diff cover, with 1/2 the weight of the vehicle on it...not cool.
here's my old JKS track bar hitting the Riddler diff cover with a loss of ~3" of uptravel right there.
^^Needed 3" bumpstops to avoid this.
when someone says their junk clears "fine" or they have "no problems"...have them show you a picture of the Jeep sitting on the bumpstops.
here's an example:
notice there is no springs, and the bumpstop cup is still 2" off the bumpstop pad, but the track bar mount is hitting the diff cover in the background. if you don't check the clearances with no springs, you simply won't know if your setup works or not.
So what about using the stock TB?
Aside from your axle being off center, the negative about using the stock TB is three fold:
1. redrilling the mount isn't a very good idea...its not too strong. you'd want to weld some reinforcement to the bracket.
2. the track bar is pretty much straight at the axle end, that means it can bind on the bracket...which can cause bad things to happen.
3. with most lift shocks, the frame end will bind long before full droop is reached.
But, all of the above on the stock track bar can be resolved with a shop press. the stock track bar is solid, so you can bend the bar to clear the bracket and keep the frame side alignment. then hack it in half along the straight long center section, sleeve it, center the axle, and weld it.