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Old 04-08-2013, 07:05 PM   #1
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3" w/ factory arms until mind is made up

Undecided which route to take as far as arms go but I know I want to go with a 3" suspension. I'm going back and forth between sticking with the short arm or going mid length. I am set on Savvy double adjustable arms w/ whatever I end up going with.

Until I make up my mind and can save for arms would I be able to run a 3" basic kit (springs, shocks, rear trac bar bracket, drop pitman arm, rear sway links, front JKS disconnects, and t-case drop) and factory arms for the time being?

If I can do this then I will get the 3" lift completed before the Metalcloak arched fenders, if not then the Metalcloaks will probably come first.

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Old 04-08-2013, 07:09 PM   #2
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DO NOT INSTALL A DROP PITMAN ARM.

yes, you can use the stock control arms. get cam bolts from NAPA to correct caster in front to keep the driveability reasonable until you get adjustable arms.

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Old 04-08-2013, 07:15 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by UnlimitedLJ04 View Post
DO NOT INSTALL A DROP PITMAN ARM.

yes, you can use the stock control arms. get cam bolts from NAPA to correct caster in front to keep the driveability reasonable until you get adjustable arms.
why do you not reccommend the drop pitman arm? I was looking at the Rusty's 3" basic kit and it comes with it
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Old 04-08-2013, 07:42 PM   #4
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do a little research on that Pitman arm and you won't find any one who knows what they are doing running a drop pitman on a 3" lift that I have seen . While you are searching enter Rustys in one too and you will probably never think about Rusty again along with Rough Country.
As far as control arms go you will be fine with OE arms for 3" until the money arrives . I started with lower front Savvy arms and that alone did a lot for steering improvement on the road .
You are also going to have to address rear driveline vibes . For that I would start with a 1" JKS budget Motor mount lift ( no body lift needed ) and fine tune the DS with a washer or so between the TC skid and frame .
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Old 04-08-2013, 07:44 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SaltyWaterTJ View Post
why do you not reccommend the drop pitman arm? I was looking at the Rusty's 3" basic kit and it comes with it
because I understand basic steering geometry.

when talking about TJ's, if a kit comes with a drop pitman arm, it's a clear indication the selling entity doesn't understand basic steering geometry, and that the kit is bottom of the barrel quality.
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Old 04-08-2013, 08:10 PM   #6
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I just installed a Performance Accessories 1" BL and RC 1" mml, so that I could run a rokmen tummy tuck later on but I guess having the mml will help me with the rear end later too. I've heard mixed things about Rough Country but never had an issue with my XJ lift besides the adjustable trac bar being junk!

I've never ran a Rusty lift but know 2 people that have and they said it was worth the money. I did look into BDS for a little but then went back to Rustys.

So the pitman arm is something to scratch off the list but what about front and rear trac bars? will i need adjustable ones to make the stretch?

Thanks for all the great info and opinions!!!! its really helping put an idea of what lift to put together to make a kit that will be correct and function how I imagine in my mind.
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Old 04-08-2013, 09:47 PM   #7
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Some kits require a new hole drilled in the front mounting bracket to scoot it over to work, some people it works and some get death wobble. I got a zone 3 inch lift and for the front required new hole drilled but i bought a rubicon express adjustable front track bar which worked perfect. For the rear mine came with a new mounting bracket that installs into the old one while relocating rear track bar which worked great as well. Btw check with allen on this forum at allens offroad, i think his username is AOR. I ordered my lift from him, he will get you some great deals, i got all my stuff for a good bit cheaper than anywhere else. Its worth a pm just to see!
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Old 04-16-2013, 10:23 PM   #8
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I'll have to check it out,

Other questions...
What's everyone's take on a front trac-bar relocation bracket or is it worth just going adjustable?
Any opinion on Full Traction lifts?
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Aussie Locked D30
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Old 04-16-2013, 10:30 PM   #9
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Quote:
Some kits require a new hole drilled in the front mounting bracket to scoot it over to work, some people it works and some get death wobble.
Nobody gets death wobble from drilling a new hole in the track bar bracket.
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Old 04-16-2013, 10:33 PM   #10
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Nobody gets death wobble from drilling a new hole in the track bar bracket.
Ive read multiple times where the hole gets drilled slightly too large causing it to shake.
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Old 04-16-2013, 10:43 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by thgr8alex View Post
Ive read multiple times where the hole gets drilled slightly too large causing it to shake.
drilling the hole isn't the problem. it's drilling it WRONG.

read here:
Broken front track bar bracket - JeepForum.com
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Old 04-16-2013, 10:45 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by thgr8alex View Post
Ive read multiple times where the hole gets drilled slightly too large causing it to shake.
The hole size isn't critical if the bolt is properly torqued. The bushing sleeve gets clamped in the bracket.
I guess I should have worded that differently. If it's assembled properly, merely drilling a new hole for the track bar bracket will in no way induce or intensify death wobble.
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Old 04-16-2013, 10:53 PM   #13
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Maybe its not the actual death wobble but the main reasons i got my adjustable track bar vs drilling the new hole is 1) sometimes it pulls if not done perfect, 2) it weakens the mount like posted above, and 3) ive read where people got some sort of a shake after drilling the hole, then got an adjustable bar in the factory hole and shake went away.
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Old 04-16-2013, 11:35 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by thgr8alex View Post
Maybe its not the actual death wobble but the main reasons i got my adjustable track bar vs drilling the new hole is 1) sometimes it pulls if not done perfect, 2) it weakens the mount like posted above, and 3) ive read where people got some sort of a shake after drilling the hole, then got an adjustable bar in the factory hole and shake went away.
The axle being off set won't cause it to pull. I reinforced my bracket as described in that link and re-drilled the hole to center the axle. Worked perfectly. Then I later installed an adjustable track bar using the new hole I drilled in the reinforced and re-drilled bracket. Works perfectly.

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