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Old 07-21-2013, 10:35 PM   #1
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33" tires. No SYE or DC shaft.

Hey guys I just have a quick question regarding to the title of this thread. I'm looking at getting an '03 tj that has a 3" lift on it and 33s with no SYE or DC shaft. It has a t case drop. The owner claims that there are no vibes. Besides having less clearance, what else is the effect of just using a t case drop to solve the vibe issue? I think I've read somewhere before that it will eventually wear out the U joints. Can anyone verify this and tell me any other issues that could arise? Also, how soon will I have to address the problems that may be brought up due to this before it causes damage to the jeep?

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Old 07-21-2013, 10:37 PM   #2
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Has Dana 30/35 in case anyone need to know for any reason.
It also has 3.07 gear ratio but I am aware of how crappy the acceleration will be on the high end but I'm hoping it'll be a little better since it is a manual.

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Old 07-21-2013, 10:44 PM   #3
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The transfer case drop is what is preventing the driveline vibrations. If you put a SYE, then you can take the drop out to gain the belly clearance back. Best Option.

Another way to go is that if you install a Motor mount lift (aka MML) that too will change the angles enough for 3" springs that you can remove the drop...or reduce it down to just a few washers worth of a drop and gain most of your belly clearance back.
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Old 07-21-2013, 11:09 PM   #4
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Vibration can wear u joints, but the drop itself will not. If you've got no vibrations the only consequence of the tcase drop is that the shifter sits lower, and you lose ground clearance.
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Old 07-22-2013, 12:23 AM   #5
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If an SYE would solve the issue then in what circumstances is a DC shaft needed for? Only when there is a bigger lift then the 3" one on right now?
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Old 07-22-2013, 12:26 AM   #6
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If an SYE would solve the issue then in what circumstances is a DC shaft needed for? Only when there is a bigger lift then the 3" one on right now?
Do you happen to me a CV drive shaft? If so, the main thing to know is the difference between a slip yoke drive shaft (that you have) and a CV drive shaft. A SYE needs to be used with a CV drive shaft.
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Old 07-22-2013, 12:32 AM   #7
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Isn't a CV shaft the same as a DC shaft?
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Old 07-22-2013, 01:18 AM   #8
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CV is Constant Velocity, a form of driveshafts. The Double Cardan (DC) is a part of this category: two-joints, hence the name double, that allow for greater angles.
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Old 07-22-2013, 01:24 PM   #9
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Can anyone recommend a good but cost effective SYE/CV shaft combo?
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Old 07-22-2013, 01:28 PM   #10
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Can anyone recommend a good but cost effective SYE/CV shaft combo?
You install a SYE. Then you measure, and have a DC shaft built. You'll also need adjustable upper and lower rear control arms to properly set the pinion angle and axle position.

Read this:
What is a CV shaft and why do I want one? - JeepForum.com
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Old 07-22-2013, 01:58 PM   #11
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Pull the T-case drop put skid back up to frame Go to Tom Woods site See how they want you to take the measurements . Call them order your SYE and DS . Pull your rear shaft drive in 4-hi until you get your order. He is quick my past couple orders came with in a week .
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Old 07-22-2013, 02:01 PM   #12
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Pull the T-case drop put skid back up to frame Go to Tom Woods site See how they want you to take the measurements . Call them order your SYE and DS . Pull your rear shaft drive in 4-hi until you get your order. He is quick my past couple orders came with in a week . Also you need at least rear upper CA's to make things work get the lowers when you get extra $$$ .
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Old 07-22-2013, 02:06 PM   #13
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I've read it probably ten times before and each time I thought I understood it a little better but I guess I don't know it as well as I thought. That's why I was calling it a DC shaft instead of a CV shaft haha.
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Old 07-22-2013, 02:19 PM   #14
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I've read it probably ten times before and each time I thought I understood it a little better but I guess I don't know it as well as I thought. That's why I was calling it a DC shaft instead of a CV shaft haha.
DC or Double Cardin is technically the correct term. So you're doing just fine.
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Old 07-22-2013, 02:30 PM   #15
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If you had 3.07 gears with 33" tires, a 3" suspension lift, and a 5 speed would it be a priority to regear to 4.56 or install a SYE/CV shaft first? I'm on a tight budget so there would be probably be a half year gap between the two.
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Old 07-22-2013, 02:36 PM   #16
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If you had 3.07 gears with 33" tires, a 3" suspension lift, and a 5 speed would it be a priority to regear to 4.56 or install a SYE/CV shaft first? I'm on a tight budget so there would be probably be a half year gap between the two.
I would regear first. 3.07's with the 5 speed, you probably don't use 5th until you hit about 65mph. As long as there's no vibes, just leave the tc drop in until after the regear.
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Old 07-22-2013, 02:36 PM   #17
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I'm in Florida so there's no hills. I know that would probably play a role in the choice because of the gearing.
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Old 07-22-2013, 02:44 PM   #18
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Hey guys I just have a quick question regarding to the title of this thread. I'm looking at getting an '03 tj that has a 3" lift on it and 33s with no SYE or DC shaft. It has a t case drop. The owner claims that there are no vibes. Besides having less clearance, what else is the effect of just using a t case drop to solve the vibe issue? I think I've read somewhere before that it will eventually wear out the U joints. Can anyone verify this and tell me any other issues that could arise? Also, how soon will I have to address the problems that may be brought up due to this before it causes damage to the jeep?
Vibes come from binding u joints.

If you use a TC drop you are doing the same thing as spacing your skid with washers. You can. Add washers until the vibes go away.

The problem is that you are just bringing it to a marginal threshold for vibrations. As soon as you go over a bump or flex your lift you are into the vibe area again. You may not notice it because you are not going fast. But just because you can't feel the vibes it doesn't mean your joints are not binding. It is when you flex your rig (wheeling) that you do not want them breaking. What's more is that those binding ujoints can take out your TC or pinion; a much bigger problem.

So getting rid of the vibe problem by spacing your TCS is masking a problem that will rear its head at the worst time; and you won't know it until its broke.

And CV is an incorrect term. A CV joint is a completely different animal than a DC joint. CV joints don't belong on a jeep.
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Old 07-22-2013, 03:14 PM   #19
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I'm in Florida so there's no hills. I know that would probably play a role in the choice because of the gearing.
Hills or no hills. With 33's you'll want either 4.56 or 4.88 gears depending upon your setup. What engine and trans do you have?
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Old 07-22-2013, 03:25 PM   #20
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Hills or no hills. With 33's you'll want either 4.56 or 4.88 gears depending upon your setup. What engine and trans do you have?
4.0 engine.
NV3550 transmission
NV231 transfer case
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Old 07-22-2013, 03:31 PM   #21
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4.0 engine.
NV3550 transmission
NV231 transfer case
4.56s for that trans.
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Old 07-22-2013, 03:35 PM   #22
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Vibes come from binding u joints.

If you use a TC drop you are doing the same thing as spacing your skid with washers. You can. Add washers until the vibes go away.

The problem is that you are just bringing it to a marginal threshold for vibrations. As soon as you go over a bump or flex your lift you are into the vibe area again. You may not notice it because you are not going fast. But just because you can't feel the vibes it doesn't mean your joints are not binding. It is when you flex your rig (wheeling) that you do not want them breaking. What's more is that those binding ujoints can take out your TC or pinion; a much bigger problem.

So getting rid of the vibe problem by spacing your TCS is masking a problem that will rear its head at the worst time; and you won't know it until its broke.

And CV is an incorrect term. A CV joint is a completely different animal than a DC joint. CV joints don't belong on a jeep.
After reading this I'm thinking that the SYE/DC shaft might be more important to do first for the health of the jeep.
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Old 07-22-2013, 03:39 PM   #23
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SYE /DS , and adj CA's first . I would want my Drivetrain right and full Potential of my lift . Then gears .
Just my OP GL
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Old 07-22-2013, 03:47 PM   #24
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4.56s for that trans.
x2. Beat me to it.

And there is something to the point of doing the sye/cv (or DC, whatever you prefer) before the regear. But if you do the sye/cv first, I'd highly recommend to save up, get both rear uppers and lowers adjustable CA's and do a TT all at the same time. It'll be worth the wait in the end.
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Old 07-22-2013, 03:58 PM   #25
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To fix vibes if they occur just add a MML, easy enough.
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Old 07-22-2013, 05:48 PM   #26
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Regarding the gearing, how bad will the power loss be? I've read a lot of old threads about the topic and they seem to complain a lot about the power loss on hills but never too much on straight highways. Which is what all we have here in Florida except your occasional bridge.
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Old 07-22-2013, 07:03 PM   #27
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Regarding the gearing, how bad will the power loss be? I've read a lot of old threads about the topic and they seem to complain a lot about the power loss on hills but never too much on straight highways. Which is what all we have here in Florida except your occasional bridge.
well since you haven't had a properly geared Jeep yet, you'll probably think everything is fine.

....then after you regear you'll just think you have a Corvette with 4x4.
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Old 08-02-2013, 08:11 PM   #28
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Hey guys I have another question regarding this topic and instead of starting a new thread I figured I'd just bump if back up to the top. Right now my jeep is running a 3" zone suspension lift with a t-case drop. Which works ok for my current use but I'm going to be adding the zone 1" body lift soon. I've read on their website that after adding this body lift along with their 1" mml I will no longer need a t-case drop or a SYE/CV shaft.
My question to you guys is this really true or is it just covering up the vibes and down the road I could have some serious issues?
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Old 08-02-2013, 09:09 PM   #29
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It was true for me. When I installed my MML, I was able to remove my transfer case drop and bring my skid back to factory height. At the time I was running a 2" BDS lift and 1.25" JKS bodylift, no SYE or custom driveshaft and factory control arms all around.
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Old 08-02-2013, 09:20 PM   #30
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Anyone think the extra 1" of suspension lift could make a difference for me?

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