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Old 02-22-2011, 10:07 PM   #1
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33s to much?

Ok so I'm going to be getting another tj soon and I don't do much offloading. If I do then it's very mild and or on snow and sand. So anyways I want to put 33s on with a 3.25" lift it going to be my daily driver. Will the 33s strain my tie rods and the end of my axels?
I will be upgrading to D44s soon after but will they do any damage to my front end?
I have 31s on my current tj and have no problems...

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Old 02-22-2011, 10:44 PM   #2
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Should be good but I would recommend putting 4.56 gears in for better performance on and off the road.

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Old 02-22-2011, 11:03 PM   #3
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You will be fine but if you will be regearing then no less than 4.11.
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Old 02-22-2011, 11:10 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 97'wrangler View Post
Ok so I'm going to be getting another tj soon and I don't do much offloading. If I do then it's very mild and or on snow and sand. So anyways I want to put 33s on with a 3.25" lift it going to be my daily driver. Will the 33s strain my tie rods and the end of my axels?
I will be upgrading to D44s soon after but will they do any damage to my front end?
I have 31s on my current tj and have no problems...
33 inch tires will rub with 3.25 inches of lift especially if you disconnect the front end but if you do no serious off road driving you can get by, it is the bare minimum of lift needed. As far as 33 inch tires straining your axles or tie rods, I have never heard of it. I would be more concerned with the 33 inch tires breaking your dana 35 rear axle. The 44 would be a good choice.
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Old 02-23-2011, 09:18 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by 530ktm View Post
33 inch tires will rub with 3.25 inches of lift especially if you disconnect the front end but if you do no serious off road driving you can get by, it is the bare minimum of lift needed...
Not true, in my recent experience. Just did a Rusty's 3in basic kit over the weekend and my new 33x12.5 mud terrains have ZERO rubbing even when the wheel is cut all the way over. Did a little LIGHT off-roading (basically a path with some inclines/declines) and had no problems with articulation.

If, like you say, you do some light wheeling and not that often, you will have zero problems, just make sure you get the right wheel size for the tire size you buy and you'll have no problems.
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Old 02-23-2011, 09:26 AM   #6
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I wheeled my tj on 35s with a 4" lift from rc and the tire only rubbed on a hard stuff into the wheel wells. and they only reason the rubbed was the bushwacker flairs hang lower then stock. I did later add a 6" long arm for more flex and to keep the rubber on the ground.
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Old 02-23-2011, 09:36 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by 97'wrangler View Post
Ok so I'm going to be getting another tj soon and I don't do much offloading. If I do then it's very mild and or on snow and sand. So anyways I want to put 33s on with a 3.25" lift it going to be my daily driver. Will the 33s strain my tie rods and the end of my axels?
I will be upgrading to D44s soon after but will they do any damage to my front end?
I have 31s on my current tj and have no problems...
you'll be fine...just make sure to do the necessary supporting mods:
-set the bumpstops properly (you'll need at least 2" front and rear for the Rough Junk 3.25" lift & 33s)
-ZJ V8 tie-rod (direct bolt on & much beefier)
-regear to 4.56s for a 5-speed, 4.88s for a 4-speed auto or 4.10s for a 3-speed auto
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Old 02-23-2011, 09:51 AM   #8
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Thanks guys. And yeah I'm going to this summer buy a d44 from the junkyard and clean it up and regear both d30 and that axel. Also I will look into upgrading tierods and things to. I don't no where to get them around here but I could go online. Does anyone no how much it is to buy gears and what ever else i need to regear? Can I do it my self?
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Old 02-23-2011, 10:08 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by 97'wrangler View Post
Thanks guys. And yeah I'm going to this summer buy a d44 from the junkyard and clean it up and regear both d30 and that axel. Also I will look into upgrading tierods and things to. I don't no where to get them around here but I could go online. Does anyone no how much it is to buy gears and what ever else i need to regear? Can I do it my self?
the general rule of thumb is: if you have to ask if you can do the regear yourself, you can't.

its pretty involved, and you need experience to get it setup right...so just have a shop do it. call up some local drivetrain shops and see how much they charge for a regear. have the shop provide the gears, carriers, install kit, etc...that way its warrantied.
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Old 02-23-2011, 11:16 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UnlimitedLJ04 View Post
you'll be fine...just make sure to do the necessary supporting mods:
-set the bumpstops properly (you'll need at least 2" front and rear for the Rough Junk 3.25" lift & 33s)
-ZJ V8 tie-rod (direct bolt on & much beefier)
-regear to 4.56s for a 5-speed, 4.88s for a 4-speed auto or 4.10s for a 3-speed auto
Never thought about the tie-rod. Literally a bolt-on part?
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Old 02-23-2011, 11:39 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by redbandit View Post
Not true, in my recent experience. Just did a Rusty's 3in basic kit over the weekend and my new 33x12.5 mud terrains have ZERO rubbing even when the wheel is cut all the way over. Did a little LIGHT off-roading (basically a path with some inclines/declines) and had no problems with articulation.

If, like you say, you do some light wheeling and not that often, you will have zero problems, just make sure you get the right wheel size for the tire size you buy and you'll have no problems.
Yes, it is true that you will rub when disconnected with a 3 inch lift unless you do as Unlimited says and bumpstop the crap out of it which limits the amount of travel you will have.
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Old 02-23-2011, 12:45 PM   #12
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Never thought about the tie-rod. Literally a bolt-on part?
Have you met Stu?

ZJ Tie Rod Conversion
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Old 02-23-2011, 12:52 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by 530ktm View Post
Yes, it is true that you will rub when disconnected with a 3 inch lift unless you do as Unlimited says and bumpstop the crap out of it which limits the amount of travel you will have.
Oh ok, because originally you had said it WILL rub with 3.25in lift, ESPECIALLY when disconnected

Weird though, I disconnected the sway bar (I'm guessing this is what you mean with you say "disconnected"?) before my trek off pavement and I had no problems with rubbing. Again, wasn't doing anything crazy but got some ok flex going on. Just re-used stock bumpstops.

You rubbed with your setup? Strange...

Ah, Stu! Nice to meet you!
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Old 02-23-2011, 01:12 PM   #14
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Oh ok, because originally you had said it WILL rub with 3.25in lift, ESPECIALLY when disconnected

Weird though, I disconnected the sway bar (I'm guessing this is what you mean with you say "disconnected"?) before my trek off pavement and I had no problems with rubbing. Again, wasn't doing anything crazy but got some ok flex going on. Just re-used stock bumpstops.

You rubbed with your setup? Strange...

Ah, Stu! Nice to meet you!
if you don't extend the bumpstops with 33s, you will rub. extending the bumpstops changes the distance between the hub center and the fender. if you don't change this distance, you will rub. lift height is not correlated to tire size, but bumpstop height and uptravel certainly is....because it doesn't matter what lift you have, what matters is what the suspension does at full compression.

if you don't rub, and haven't extended the bumpstops, then you either didn't cycle the suspension fully, or the shocks are too long. if the shocks are too long, you still need more bumpstop to prevent them from bottoming out and causing damage. if you add spacers on top of lift coils, you need even more bumpstop extension to prevent coil bind.

4" of lift is common, and requires about 2" bumpstop front and 2.5" rear to prevent the shocks from bottoming out...and 33's don't rub.

If you don't have a BL, you'll need at least 2" bumpstop front and rear to clear 33s. Of course, if you never cycle the suspension (that includes speed bumps and potholes)....and i'm not talking about the flares...i'm talking steel fender...
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Old 02-23-2011, 01:19 PM   #15
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I don't rub...... 33's with no lift.
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Old 02-23-2011, 01:23 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by UnlimitedLJ04 View Post
if you don't extend the bumpstops with 33s, you will rub. extending the bumpstops changes the distance between the hub center and the fender. if you don't change this distance, you will rub. lift height is not correlated to tire size, but bumpstop height and uptravel certainly is....because it doesn't matter what lift you have, what matters is what the suspension does at full compression.

if you don't rub, and haven't extended the bumpstops, then you either didn't cycle the suspension fully, or the shocks are too long. if the shocks are too long, you still need more bumpstop to prevent them from bottoming out and causing damage. if you add spacers on top of lift coils, you need even more bumpstop extension to prevent coil bind.

4" of lift is common, and requires about 2" bumpstop front and 2.5" rear to prevent the shocks from bottoming out...and 33's don't rub.

If you don't have a BL, you'll need at least 2" bumpstop front and rear to clear 33s. Of course, if you never cycle the suspension (that includes speed bumps and potholes)....and i'm not talking about the flares...i'm talking steel fender...
Interesting... I guess my shocks are too long? How does one tell if they are too long?

I have no idea really, I just followed instructions from Rusty's exactly as printed, everything seems to be working fine...

So you're saying I need to add 2" bumpstops?

Cycling suspension meaning... breaking it in? Yeah I just installed over the weekend, live in a city with tons of potholes and crappy roads, so if that's what it takes, I'll find out soon enough I gues?

edit- sorry to thread-jack! but this is all stuff you need to know for 33s, I guess? hehe
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Old 02-23-2011, 01:29 PM   #17
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Interesting... I guess my shocks are too long? How does one tell if they are too long?

I have no idea really, I just followed instructions from Rusty's exactly as printed, everything seems to be working fine...

So you're saying I need to add 2" bumpstops?

Cycling suspension meaning... breaking it in? Yeah I just installed over the weekend, live in a city with tons of potholes and crappy roads, so if that's what it takes, I'll find out soon enough I gues?
if you've got a RC 2.5 or 3.25" lift, chances are pretty good the shocks are too long...RC doesn't include bumpstops with anything
http://www.wranglerforum.com/f5/boug...got-78933.html
anybody who.works at 4wheel parts help!

How to check:
http://www.wranglerforum.com/f5/corr...gth-70047.html
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Old 02-23-2011, 01:41 PM   #18
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Oh, no I have a Rusty's 3" basic kit. Good links though, thanks!
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Old 02-23-2011, 03:52 PM   #19
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Oh, no I have a Rusty's 3" basic kit. Good links though, thanks!
Rusty's basic 3" kit doesn't include bumpstops either. and the Rusty's lift coils I've seen are rather shotty - they're stock height, just thicker diameter (stiffer)...so they don't actually help during droop, since they'll unseat pretty quickly...a 3" lift coil should be around 19-20" long...
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Old 02-23-2011, 04:25 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 97'wrangler View Post
Ok so I'm going to be getting another tj soon and I don't do much offloading. If I do then it's very mild and or on snow and sand. So anyways I want to put 33s on with a 3.25" lift it going to be my daily driver. Will the 33s strain my tie rods and the end of my axels?
I will be upgrading to D44s soon after but will they do any damage to my front end?
I have 31s on my current tj and have no problems...
In my opinion, the D44 is a poor choice if you're swapping from a D35. D44's are great if they are installed from the factory, but cost wise to put one in is far too expensive for my tastes.

I suggest getting a Ford 8.8 and either modding it yourself or ordering it from East Coast Gear Supply. Even from them it's way cheaper than a D44, and it's actually a bit stronger. As for a front D44, they are a complete waste. The D30 with withstand 33's with a locker, or pull an HP D30 out of a Cherokee.

Also, for the people saying they don't rub, you aren't fully understanding what Unlimited is saying. He's saying on full flex, you'll rub on your fenders. That is different from saying you rub at full wheel turn. I've seen guys with improper bump stops that have rounded out the top of their fenders. If you go wheeling, you'll see what I'm talking about when you look at someone with improper bumpstop length.
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Old 02-23-2011, 04:40 PM   #21
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Also, for the people saying they don't rub, you aren't fully understanding what Unlimited is saying. He's saying on full flex, you'll rub on your fenders. That is different from saying you rub at full wheel turn. I've seen guys with improper bump stops that have rounded out the top of their fenders. If you go wheeling, you'll see what I'm talking about when you look at someone with improper bumpstop length.
yup.

Pics help...

This IS rubbing.


here's what happens with 35s on stock length arms in the wheelwell:

notice the rubbing in the back? yea you need to hack that off if you want to stuff tires without lots of bumpstop...
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Old 02-23-2011, 06:35 PM   #22
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Rusty's basic 3" kit doesn't include bumpstops either. and the Rusty's lift coils I've seen are rather shotty - they're stock height, just thicker diameter (stiffer)...so they don't actually help during droop, since they'll unseat pretty quickly...a 3" lift coil should be around 19-20" long...
Right they say to reuse stock. Regarding the springs...Compared to stock during install, they were longer. Wish I had taken pics.
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Old 02-23-2011, 06:38 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by UnlimitedLJ04
if you've got a RC 2.5 or 3.25" lift, chances are pretty good the shocks are too long...RC doesn't include bumpstops with anything
http://www.wranglerforum.com/f5/boug...got-78933.html
anybody who.works at 4wheel parts help!

How to check:
http://www.wranglerforum.com/f5/corr...gth-70047.html
X2 rc shocks suck
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Old 02-24-2011, 12:13 AM   #24
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Old 02-24-2011, 12:16 AM   #25
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ops sorry bout that last post..


[QUOTE=UnlimitedLJ04;1077064]yup.

Pics help...

This IS rubbing.




Dude you need more lift on your Jeep it looks like your wrecking something when you do that...... It would be sweet to watch that wheel
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Old 02-24-2011, 07:49 AM   #26
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Dude you need more lift on your Jeep it looks like your wrecking something when you do that...... It would be sweet to watch that wheel
did you miss the part of this thread where I outlined how lift height is not related to tire size or rubbing? how about the discussion about bumpstops?

and thats not my jeep.
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Old 02-24-2011, 09:37 AM   #27
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I need to take pics of my springs/shocks with wheels off, see what you think, UnlimitedLJ04
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Old 02-24-2011, 10:32 AM   #28
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I need to take pics of my springs/shocks with wheels off, see what you think, UnlimitedLJ04
once you have the springs off, and the wheels off, push the axle up to full bump (compress the jounce bumper)...and see if the shocks fit...I bet they don't
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Old 02-24-2011, 01:25 PM   #29
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So I need to remove wheels first, obviously, and the springs, then push the axle up on one side until I hit the bump-stop? So you're saying I need a bump stop that's the length of my shock when it is fully compressed? That'd be like a 12" bumpstop!

Gosh darnit, even after reading everything and seeing the visuals, I'm still not understanding this.

*sigh*

The bumpstop is just there to prevent hitting your fender on full flex, right?

so confused.... it sucks being a newb
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Old 02-24-2011, 03:01 PM   #30
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Gosh darnit, even after reading everything and seeing the visuals, I'm still not understanding this.
read:
http://www.wranglerforum.com/f5/bump...ons-80786.html

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f5/bump...cer-80665.html

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