Does anyone has some pictures of their tj on 33s with a 3in lift?
Also with a 3in lift do you need any additional drive train modifications? sye, longer drive shaft etc?
Finally what 3in lift would you recommend I install on my jeep without braking the bank $$$<2000. Preferably something that would work good for now, giving me the height and flex, that I could upgrade later if i wish.
3" of lift is not really sufficient for 33's for off road/flex. Without major amounts of bump stop or fender mods, your tires will be in your fenders if disconnected. Closer to 4" of total lift is typically recommended for 33's.
Does your budget include tires/wheels, or is that just for the lift?
Here's a couple of options...if going with the Zone, I would recommend also getting a metalcloak front adjustable track bar:
3" of lift is not really sufficient for 33's for off road/flex. Without major amounts of bump stop or fender mods, your tires will be in your fenders if disconnected. Closer to 4" of total lift is typically recommended for 33's.
Does your budget include tires/wheels, or is that just for the lift?
Here's a couple of options...if going with the Zone, I would recommend also getting a metalcloak front adjustable track bar:
What is the benefit of the metalcloak track bar? Is it a nessesity?
Is there anything else I need to order to make this lift work. I was going to upgrade to the sway bar disconnect's. And go with the hydro shocks.
Do I need anything else?
For cheap money, nothing currently available beats the Zone 4.25" combo lift. It will get you where you need to be. Upgrade or add stuff as you gain knowledge, experience and seat time actually wheeling it.
Upgrade #1 -- Do not get the proffered JKS track bar. Get the Metalcloak one. It is *that* good and costs about the same as the JKS.
Upgrade #2 -- Get the Zone Hydro shocks. I read more people liking them than the nitros. I am not sure the nitros are even offered anymore.
You can install it at home with a floor Jack and some 4x4 blocks and hand tools.
You will want PB Blaster (good) or Kroil (better) and may have to fight a tragic battle against your upper, rear shock bolts. Don't use a breaker bar if they are rusted in place. Come back here for help. They easily snap off up in the frame, which sucks hind tit.
I don't know much about the OME Kit, but I run their *very* nice Nitrochargers on my Metalcloak lift. Sweet! I think it costs more but would require less tweaking later.
My Metalcloak 3.5" kit with aluminum double-adjustable arms and the OME shocks actually netted my lightweight TJ (no real armor) 4.5" of lift. It has no provisions for a MML/BL or a TC drop, so you could do that for more or spend another $700 for an SYE and a new driveshaft.
I really like my lift but had the cash not been there I would have done the Zone to get my crappy, blown out Skyjacker lift off the jeep.
Post pics, regardless of what you choose to install.
Listen to Dennis, OP. For cheap money, nothing currently available beats the Zone 4.25" combo lift. It will get you where you need to be. Upgrade or add stuff as you gain knowledge, experience and seat time actually wheeling it. Upgrade #1 -- Do not get the proffered JKS track bar. Get the Metalcloak one. It is *that* good and costs about the same as the JKS. Upgrade #2 -- Get the Zone Hydro shocks. I read more people liking them than the nitros. I am not sure the nitros are even offered anymore. You can install it at home with a floor Jack and some 4x4 blocks and hand tools. You will want PB Blaster (good) or Kroil (better) and may have to fight a tragic battle against your upper, rear shock bolts. Don't use a breaker bar if they are rusted in place. Come back here for help. They easily snap off up in the frame, which sucks hind tit. I don't know much about the OME Kit, but I run their *very* nice Nitrochargers on my Metalcloak lift. Sweet! I think it costs more but would require less tweaking later. My Metalcloak 3.5" kit with aluminum double-adjustable arms and the OME shocks actually netted my lightweight TJ (no real armor) 4.5" of lift. It has no provisions for a MML/BL or a TC drop, so you could do that for more or spend another $700 for an SYE and a new driveshaft. I really like my lift but had the cash not been there I would have done the Zone to get my crappy, blown out Skyjacker lift off the jeep. Post pics, regardless of what you choose to install. Good luck!
If you're looking for height and flex then you need to move up to a 4" or put on different fenders. I ran 33s with a 3.25" everything else stock and obviously they rubbed offroad up front. The tires would bend the fenders, just not ideal off road. I opted for different fenders as I plan to go with the metal cloak lift Holton mentioned above in the future.
For 33's, I agree 4" of additional tire clearance is the way to go. For that, my choice would be a 3" suspension lift plus a 1" body lift. Cheaper and easier to get working right, not to mention having a lower center-of-gravity, than a 4" suspension lift where a SYE kit and CV driveshaft is pretty much mandatory.
+2 for Zone. Have had the 3" lift on mine for 2 years. I also have 33" Mastercraft MXT. Will post a pic later. I admit I was nervous the first time off road, waiting for the sound of tire to fender, but so far nothing. Mine handles blue trails well and I've had it flexed as far as it can go. (still have stock control arms) Granted I only have about 1" to spare. I would agree that 4" is perfect, but depending on what you plan to do, you can get away with 3" to start and come back later with the BL. I think the amount of offset in the wheel would also play a roll in the clearance results.
I am looking at 2000$ not including wheels and tires. I also have aftermarket fenders, the barricade fenders, on it now front and rear. So what im hearing is the zone 4.25 combo kit is pretty good if I get the metalclock adjustable track bar.
For those with the zone lift, how is the road rid equality. I am trying to turn the jeep into a dual purpose DD, to get me to work and handle the trails. I don't do to much driving being in the military but, having a half way decent ride quality would be nice.
Right now the jeep has a 2.5in body lift, and in my opinion looks horrible, I really want to avoid body lifts if possible.
Is the Zone kit the best option without getting the sye and new drive shaft, or for 2000$ could I get a better kit sye and drive shaft for 2000$. It seems there are so many different routes you can go when doing this, I just want to make sure my money is well spent.
The Zone 4.25 combo lift comes with an 1.25" body lift, which is barely noticeable. That way you will have everything you need to get rid of you 2.5" body lift.
An even nicer set up is the OME kit that DPG Off Road has put together. It uses a combination of suspension lift and small body lift as well, plus includes JKS track bars and they will provide the correct spring rates for the way your Jeep is set up. Old Man Emu (ome) is a well respected company that produces excellent parts. You don't need an sye with either of the kits. Old Man Emu Ultimate TJ/LJ Wrangler Kit | dpgoffroad.com
I have the Zone 3" lift with a metalcloak front track bar and, for the price, it is definitely a great buy. I'm very happy with both products and have never had any issues with either. I also just got JKS quicker discos to replace the extended solid ones from the lift. For under $1k you could get the 4.25" lift from them, the metalcloak front track bar and JKS quicker discos for the front sway bar and have yourself a very solid kit that rides better than stock and handles great off-road. I was keeping up with two JKU's last time I went wheeling last month. One was a 2016 hard rock Rubi on 35s and the other is a fully built, supercharged jku on 40s. Some of you may know her as JK Lady on any of the forums or on Instagram.
Blackjack and I have the exact same setup, zone 3" and JKS disco. I do just fine with the setup. I am happy with my choice. We are putting the same setup on my daughters 97 in about a month.
These replace your front sway bar links that connect the axle to the sway bar. When you disconnect these links and zip-tie them up to the frame with the sway bar out of the way, your front suspension can fully flex. The difference is truly amazing when you are disconnected.
However, driving on the road without a sway bar is a bad idea with a TJ. A lot of YJ drivers simply remove their sway bars and cannot understand why we bash on them for that if they do that to a TJ. The suspension system is different and what worked for a YJ could cause a wreck in a TJ.
So we have to disconnect and reconnect, over and over.
It is just a couple of nuts to remove, but the quick disconnect system is much nicer and easier to use.
There are a number of discos out there to purchase and many simply make their own. But the JKS, while spendy, are pretty much considered to be the best of them all. They simply work.
For less $$ than the DPG kit you can go with the JKS Jspec lift and add the JKS rear track bar, 1.25 body lift and motor mounts (which you might not need if already installed with your current body lift). Jspec kit comes with JKS quick discos and JKS front track bar.
So I have come to the decision of either the zone 4.25 combo kit, with the addition to the metalclock track bar, and the JKS quick discos, or the following lift.
For this lift what is the height the will be gained from it. It seems dpgoffroad did not mention the height gain.
Finally what is going to be the noticeable differences between the two lifts? I know there is a big price difference but what will be the noticeable differences on and off road?
So I have come to the decision of either the zone 4.25 combo kit, with the addition to the metalclock track bar, and the JKS quick discos, or the following lift.
For this lift what is the height the will be gained from it. It seems dpgoffroad did not mention the height gain.
Finally what is going to be the noticeable differences between the two lifts? I know there is a big price difference but what will be the noticeable differences on and off road?
The ome lift will provide a better ride according to everyone I've talked to. I have not ridden in a Jeep with the Ultimate kit on it, but I do run 4" ome springs and ome nitro charger shocks, and couldn't be happier with the ride.
My son has the Zone combo lift on his Jeep with the hydo shocks and it rides nice, but there is a noticeable difference between the two.
I believe the Ultimate lift nets approximately 3.75" of lift over all, but maybe someone that actually runs it could chime in and verify that. They claim it is sufficient for 33" tires so it would have to be close to that.
Ooo what do you guys think of the Jspec 3.5in suspension lift? Will this one require the sye and new drive shaft? or anything else in addition to this lift?
Ooo what do you guys think of the Jspec 3.5in suspension lift? Will this one require the sye and new drive shaft? or anything else in addition to this lift?
I have the Ultimate OME kit from DPG and I can confirm that everything about the ride is better than stock. I do believe it is thought of as a 3.75" lift but I netted more like 4.25"-4.5".
I've kind of pieced together my own kit to be able to run 33s. Rubicon Express 2" BB with shocks, Daystar 1" BL, Daystar 1" MML, Teraflex quick disconnects, and I trimmed my stock fender flares.
I doubt I'm even seeing a total 3" lift because I'm weighed down with a lot of accessories, but I've run some trails with the sway bar disconnected and so far so good, but I haven't flexed the suspension all the way out yet with the 33s on. I just picked up some Rubicon springs, so I'll see if they help out with a little more spring rate and lift.
Eventually I'll go with a whole suspension kit, but if you're on a budget it's not impossible to fit 33" tires and still allow for a sufficient amount of flex.
3 inch pro comp lift and 33s. I'll get an upgraded pic since I swapped that for Bilstein 5100 3.5 inch kit. Words of advice. Be prepared for stuff going wrong. Initially I went in just wanting to swap out the pro comps. Then I decided to upgrade everything, and it being a 99 it needed it.
You don't need an SYE. Mine now drives like a Cadillac and I don't have one.
Adjustable lower control arms
Adjustable TB
Steering stabilizer
And I also swapped out my tie rod and such.
3 inch pro comp lift and 33s. I'll get an upgraded pic since I swapped that for Bilstein 5100 3.5 inch kit. Words of advice. Be prepared for stuff going wrong. Initially I went in just wanting to swap out the pro comps. Then I decided to upgrade everything, and it being a 99 it needed it.
You don't need an SYE. Mine now drives like a Cadillac and I don't have one.
Adjustable lower control arms
Adjustable TB
Steering stabilizer
And I also swapped out my tie rod and such.
Don't tell anyone they don't need one. Every jeep is different with that. I have a buddy with a 2.5in lift that had to get one due to vibes. His may be different from yours
From personal experience, my new 3.5 inch lift, which is new shocks and springs along with 33 inch brand new Duratracs does not need one. OP was looking for a 3 inch lift with 33s. SYE would set him back hundreds, and tons of work to install.
My jeep rode like crap until I got adjustable lower control arms and an alignment. Now it drives as smooth as my 2015 Chevy Malibu.
If your buddy has vibes, he should have looked into a cheaper option than jumping straight to an SYE.
From personal experience, my new 3.5 inch lift, which is new shocks and springs along with 33 inch brand new Duratracs does not need one. OP was looking for a 3 inch lift with 33s. SYE would set him back hundreds, and tons of work to install.
My jeep rode like crap until I got adjustable lower control arms and an alignment. Now it drives as smooth as my 2015 Chevy Malibu.
If your buddy has vibes, he should have looked into a cheaper option than jumping straight to an SYE.
Look man I'm glad it worked out for you with your adjustable arms. But your slip yoke only has so much room to slip. That stock drive shaft is only so long. You do you man. But I'm telling you all tjs have their own habits. Yours may be good and someone else with the same setup might not be good. But skipping out on a part that will keep you from having not only vibes but keeps your yoke from being fully extended like I'm sure yours comes close to, isn't really a good trade of for me
This is a noob question, what exactly is the importance of the adjustable trackbar? Or rather, why the metalcloak over another brand. I went with Rough Country for mine. Was that a mistake and should I swap it out for the metalcloak down the road?
And I'm sure the metalcloak is of higher quality, but apart from that, any difference? Is that something where a cheaper one can cause a bad quality ride or break easily offroad?
in the simplest terms, the track bars position your axles laterally, allowing you to steer, turn and drive.
the differences are in the details. bends to clear stuff like the diff cover, the frame and other linkages, the quality of ends and eventually strength. don't know what you've got? start by checking full bump front and rear....should have been done as part of changing suspension, so if you haven't done that, get to it...see what problems exist and what you need to do to fix them.
And to install a SYE isn't tons of work. I followed the instructions I received with mine and watched the Quadratec YouTube video so I had a good understanding of what was involved. I did it in an evening.
Adjustable Track bar is good upgrade, but the instructions explain how to create a new hole to make use of the stock track bar. The main thing people worry about is how strong the hole is, now being closer to the edge of the bracket.
I am still running the stock track bar with the drilled hole for 3 years now and all it still good as the day I installed it.
Adjustable Track bar is good upgrade, but the instructions explain how to create a new hole to make use of the stock track bar. The main thing people worry about is how strong the hole is, now being closer to the edge of the bracket. I am still running the stock track bar with the drilled hole for 3 years now and all it still good as the day I installed it.
An adjustable isnt " Necessary" with a lift. Its recommended to re center your axle. I'd run the factory one in the factory location before i drill out the bracket. Its not recommended UNLESS you reinforce the new hole with some plate and gussets.
I agree. I no longer trust such a mod without some real reinforcements welded to the bracket. For $150 you can fully avoid this possibility. Breaking this bracket while at Interstate speeds could cost you your life. It is rare that this happens, but I value my life (and my TJ) too much to take such a risk when $150 can completely avoid a situation where the bracket was weakened by drilling a second hole.
X2 I completely forgot that drilling a new hole was a thing. A very silly not thought out thing. It'll rust from the inside out because your drilling off the factory paint and exposing metal as well, just not worth the stress I'd have, if it works for some people good for them but when you budget by with too many components like sye and control arms as well you end up with a scetchy rig
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