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Old 01-29-2011, 11:52 AM   #31
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I bought my used Dana 44 out of a TJ and had it regeared to 4.88 for $1200, less than it would cost for the majority of Jeepers to get an 8.8 ready to bolt into a TJ. Everyone talks about the proverbial $200 for an 8.8 but by the time it is rebuilt, regeared, and you buy the TJ brackets and have a welder get them welded in position, it's not going to be any less than $1200. If you're a welder/fabricator then yes you can do it for way less than that but I'd venture that maybe only 1% of us in the various Jeep forums have those skills.

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Old 01-29-2011, 11:56 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
I bought my used Dana 44 out of a TJ and had it regeared to 4.88 for $1200, less than it would cost for the majority of Jeepers to get an 8.8 ready to bolt into a TJ. Everyone talks about the proverbial $200 for an 8.8 but by the time it is rebuilt, regeared, and you buy the TJ brackets and have a welder get them welded in position, it's not going to be any less than $1200. If you're a welder/fabricator then yes you can do it for way less than that but I'd venture that maybe only 1% of us in the various Jeep forums have those skills.
Alex, I'll take reasons to buy a TJ with a D44 already installed unless you want tons for $1200 please

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Old 01-29-2011, 12:00 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
I bought my used Dana 44 out of a TJ and had it regeared to 4.88 for $1200, less than it would cost for the majority of Jeepers to get an 8.8 ready to bolt into a TJ. Everyone talks about the proverbial $200 for an 8.8 but by the time it is rebuilt, regeared, and you buy the TJ brackets and have a welder get them welded in position, it's not going to be any less than $1200. If you're a welder/fabricator then yes you can do it for way less than that but I'd venture that maybe only 1% of us in the various Jeep forums have those skills.
I must add something too Jerry.

Owning a welder does not mean you are a welder. Owning a sawzall and angle grinder does not mean you have the skills to be a fabricator. Having a brain doesn't mean your intelligent.
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Old 01-29-2011, 06:59 PM   #34
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i went with the alloy 27 spline alloys so that i could buy or borrow a stock axle on the trail,,,how many of you have a 30 spline d35 axle on the trail to help out ?
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Old 05-12-2011, 10:06 PM   #35
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Help me understand why larger tires cause such serious problems with a Dana 35. I understand that the larger tire increases the twisting forces on the axle because because of the larger wheel circumference. But, going from 31's to 35's is an increase in circumference of only 4/31 or about 12%. So the increase in stress on the axle is 12%. Am I to conclude that the whole thing is engineered so close to the edge that an increase of 12% causes disaster? It would seem that how much gas I give the motor, i.e. how much torque I send to the wheels, would play a much larger role than the 12% from the larger circumference. Or, does the axle break when the wheel goes from spinning to stopping suddenly, for example it hops off a rock and then hits another rock? But still, I think we're looking at a 12% increase.
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Old 05-12-2011, 10:15 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by PA_Jeepster View Post
Help me understand why larger tires cause such serious problems with a Dana 35. I understand that the larger tire increases the twisting forces on the axle because because of the larger wheel circumference. But, going from 31's to 35's is an increase in circumference of only 4/31 or about 12%. So the increase in stress on the axle is 12%. Am I to conclude that the whole thing is engineered so close to the edge that an increase of 12% causes disaster? It would seem that how much gas I give the motor, i.e. how much torque I send to the wheels, would play a much larger role than the 12% from the larger circumference. Or, does the axle break when the wheel goes from spinning to stopping suddenly, for example it hops off a rock and then hits another rock? But still, I think we're looking at a 12% increase.
Factor in the weight of the bigger tire as well. More moving mass, taller, etc etc. just all adds up and will put stress on an already week axle. I have seen them bust on 31's.
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Old 05-12-2011, 10:41 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by PA_Jeepster
Help me understand why larger tires cause such serious problems with a Dana 35. I understand that the larger tire increases the twisting forces on the axle because because of the larger wheel circumference. But, going from 31's to 35's is an increase in circumference of only 4/31 or about 12%. So the increase in stress on the axle is 12%. Am I to conclude that the whole thing is engineered so close to the edge that an increase of 12% causes disaster? It would seem that how much gas I give the motor, i.e. how much torque I send to the wheels, would play a much larger role than the 12% from the larger circumference. Or, does the axle break when the wheel goes from spinning to stopping suddenly, for example it hops off a rock and then hits another rock? But still, I think we're looking at a 12% increase.
You are looking at it all wrong. Think of the axle as a bolt you are trying to remove. The shorter the wrench the more strength it takes to loosen. When you use the breaker bar and a pipe the bolt breaks with much less effort. The larger diameter tire is a bigger wrench.
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Old 05-13-2011, 12:45 AM   #38
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i was going to go with the detroit truloc b/c its a lsd type carrier and you gotta buy a carrier to get a ring and pinion with the right gear ratio for the larger tires. they sounded good cause they werent a full locker and i didnt want to invest to much in these axles since i want to upgrade later.
That's what I'm doing.
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Old 05-13-2011, 01:20 AM   #39
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Just so ya'll know, the poster stopped responding the day he posted it in January. Lol, don't want to think you're actually helping him/her anymore.
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Old 05-13-2011, 02:42 AM   #40
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Here is my opinion to the Original poster... Dana 35 with 35's won't work. Modding/Locking/Building a Dana 35 is a waste of time and money. A Factory Dana 44 Rubicon comes with the arb air locker and you could most likely buy one for the price of building the d35 like you plan on doing. Ford 8.8's are also better than the D35 but I recomend going with a Ford Dana 60 setup

Bottom line don't even put money into your stock axles Run some 10.50 31'' mud terrains in the mean time, it will be completely offroadable believe me and while you wear down the 31''s look for used rubicon dana 44's or atleast the rear, and buy it the day you see it because they go fast like throwing a hundred dollar bill in front of homeless people.
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Old 05-13-2011, 03:22 AM   #41
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You said ARB in the Rubicon D44



It would have been nice but was not to be. Nothing wrong with the Air Locker in the Rubi TJ/LJ but it's just not a ARB
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Old 05-13-2011, 04:46 AM   #42
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You said ARB in the Rubicon D44



It would have been nice but was not to be. Nothing wrong with the Air Locker in the Rubi TJ/LJ but it's just not a ARB
Woops haha nice catch my mind must have been in dream mode, when i think "air locker" i think "arb air locker" funny how a 3 letter word typo in a paragraph can make me look completely idiotic
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Old 05-13-2011, 08:17 AM   #43
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Having a brain doesn't mean your intelligent.
Classic
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Old 05-13-2011, 08:28 PM   #44
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You are looking at it all wrong. Think of the axle as a bolt you are trying to remove. The shorter the wrench the more strength it takes to loosen. When you use the breaker bar and a pipe the bolt breaks with much less effort. The larger diameter tire is a bigger wrench.
Nick50471: I think we're saying the same thing: the bigger tire is like a longer handle on the wrench. What puzzles me is the "handle" from the 35's is only 12% longer than with 31's, and making my wrench 12% longer doesn't gain me much in torque, so I'm still puzzled why such a seemingly small change in torque increases the chance of breaking the axle so dramatically. It seems the answer may be that the axles are so close to the limit with 31's, that the extra 12% is significant, since you can't "slightly" break an axle.
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Old 05-13-2011, 09:36 PM   #45
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As stated before the extra weight of each tire is adding stress to the axles as well. I don't know the difference in weight but I can tell you the 31s I ran on steel wheels were significantly lighter than my 33s on aluminum wheels. You are right though in that the Dana 35 could have been close to it's tolerance with 31s especially if your beating on it
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Old 05-13-2011, 10:03 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PA_Jeepster View Post
Nick50471: I think we're saying the same thing: the bigger tire is like a longer handle on the wrench. What puzzles me is the "handle" from the 35's is only 12% longer than with 31's, and making my wrench 12% longer doesn't gain me much in torque, so I'm still puzzled why such a seemingly small change in torque increases the chance of breaking the axle so dramatically. It seems the answer may be that the axles are so close to the limit with 31's, that the extra 12% is significant, since you can't "slightly" break an axle.
If you fill a glass up with water, it's filled up 100%. If you add 12% more water to your already full glass, it over flows.

12% doesn't sound like much, but if you're already at your limit....12% is a lot.

So what you're saying is right. It just makes sense to think of it that way.
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Old 06-18-2011, 01:06 AM   #47
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Originally Posted by 4Jeepn

Factor in the weight of the bigger tire as well. More moving mass, taller, etc etc. just all adds up and will put stress on an already week axle. I have seen them bust on 31's.
Shredded gears and cracked carrier on 31s

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