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Old 10-27-2011, 07:24 AM   #31
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I bought a new long block through Quadratec (ATK) for $1750 and a friend of mine who owns a shop put it in for $7000. Runs great, very satisfied. Old engine had 199K on it and it had a nasty little knock. New engine has a 3 year, 36,000 mle warranty.

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Old 10-27-2011, 08:44 AM   #32
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I bought a new long block through Quadratec (ATK) for $1750 and a friend of mine who owns a shop put it in for $7000. Runs great, very satisfied. Old engine had 199K on it and it had a nasty little knock. New engine has a 3 year, 36,000 mle warranty.
Its nice to have good, mechanically inclined friends...

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Old 10-27-2011, 09:01 AM   #33
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a friend of mine who owns a shop put it in for $7000
And you are still friends?

Tailhole, I wish you were closer to me too

On the piston rings, I always put al of them at TDC and then wiggle the piston to see how much play there is. It's not exact, but you get an idea of how bad/good they are.
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Old 10-27-2011, 09:55 AM   #34
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So, I'm taking the head off this evening and going to have a local machine shop plane it and do a valve job.
My question is - while ita all apart should I dig deper and replace the piston rings? I can only assume that is a major project.
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Old 10-27-2011, 10:24 AM   #35
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No, then you're back at pulling the entire block which by then you might as well freshen up the entire bottom end. Freshen the head and hope for the best or do it all at once.
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Old 10-27-2011, 12:16 PM   #36
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Wiggle the pistons, see how much play they have.
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Old 10-27-2011, 08:42 PM   #37
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No, then you're back at pulling the entire block which by then you might as well freshen up the entire bottom end. Freshen the head and hope for the best or do it all at once.
Probably what i would do. Work the head, but it back on. If the bottom is bad? well, got the head all ready done.
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Old 10-28-2011, 10:57 AM   #38
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This doesn't look good.

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""".....looking at the input shaft and the output shaft....the two should be very much synchronized....if they are not, you have slop in the box"""
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Old 10-28-2011, 12:13 PM   #39
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That looks better then mine did
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Old 10-28-2011, 12:57 PM   #40
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I have been working on this for a few hours and can't even get the valve cover off. Apparently there is a hidden valve cover bolt behind #14... And its not listed in the FSM? It's really back there behind that bundle of wires in the pic ... Anyone have any suggestions?

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""".....looking at the input shaft and the output shaft....the two should be very much synchronized....if they are not, you have slop in the box"""
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Old 10-28-2011, 01:29 PM   #41
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Got it. That ones not getting torqued back to spec....lol. WOW, rust crystals on the rocker arms.

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JEEP Its a four letter word....

""".....looking at the input shaft and the output shaft....the two should be very much synchronized....if they are not, you have slop in the box"""
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Old 10-28-2011, 04:04 PM   #42
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Well. I don't see how other shops charge the prices they do. I wish i could.

I've doing it for 22 years now. and stay like a month behind. I build what you bring. dont mess with the swap out stuff, you know i give you a rebuilt motor and you give me a buildable core.
What's the name of your shop?

Sorry for the hijack
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Old 10-28-2011, 10:25 PM   #43
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Sorry, but after seeing that mess I'm back to my original diagnosis of you need to pull the entire motor. That much crap up top will = 10x down below.
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Old 10-29-2011, 09:26 AM   #44
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The only good news is when I drained the oil to take the head off there was no radiator fluid (or so little I couldn't tell) in the oil. It (the oil) was really really dirty though, not burned like oil that had been run for 3k miles but dirty like it captured a ton of crap in the engine. Maybe rebulid the top, a few short mileage oil changes for the first 1500 miles (Mobile 5000 is only $13 a gallon at Walmart) and a few radiator flushes. I really don't want to rebuild the whole engine, but I will if it comes down to it. I don't want to be stranded on a trail somewhere when it gives up.
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Old 10-30-2011, 12:13 PM   #45
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I overheated my motor two years ago due to a radiator failing... bought a rebuilt head, new radiator, new hoses, water pump, t-stat housing and t-stat, gaskets, etc... mystery coolant loss for over a year... nothing mixing, nothing puffing, nothing seeping... even used dye and still nothing just coolant loss (and no oil pressure but moved up to heavier weight oil and now thats fine). I threw some stop leak in it as a last resort until a rebuild was in order then it started overheating now but after a couple flushes now we're good... dont know how long this will last but hopefully it'll get me through the winter...

Moral to the story... sometimes this stuff is better left to pros.

Now im debating on doing a Dodge 5.9l swap or going with a Jasper longblock.
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Old 10-31-2011, 05:00 AM   #46
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Got it. That ones not getting torqued back to spec....lol. WOW, rust crystals on the rocker arms.

Attachment 74599
Hmm...it has been sitting like that for a while I guess. Got the head off?
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Old 10-31-2011, 11:21 AM   #47
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Hmm...it has been sitting like that for a while I guess. Got the head off?

I still lack that one bolt. I was tired and didn't finish it last night. It hasn't been that bad, just slow progress. A few times I wanted to quit but then I looked around the garage and thought, who the heck would put this all back together....lol

I'll take and post pictures when I get home tonight... Then off to the machine shop.
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Old 11-02-2011, 07:46 PM   #48
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YESSSSSS!!!!!!!!!! The head is off. There is absolutely no sign of a gasket anywhere?? I don't get it? There is residue, but no gasket. Did Chrysler use the liquid kind when building this model?

No play at all in the Pistons, dirty as heck though. Black carbon deposits covering the entire head of the pistons. I'll post pics.
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Old 11-02-2011, 07:49 PM   #49
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Head is off, finally

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YESSSSSS!!!!!!!!!! The head is off. There is absolutely no sign of a gasket anywhere?? I don't get it? There is residue, but no gasket. Did Chrysler use the liquid kind when building this model?

No play at all in the Pistons, dirty as heck though. Black carbon deposits covering the entire head of the pistons. I'll post pics.

No scoring or marks on the metal surfaces. No damage, scratching.. etc. It is almost dry though. I will coat with oil before I close it up after the cylinder head is reconditioned.
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Old 11-02-2011, 07:51 PM   #50
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""".....looking at the input shaft and the output shaft....the two should be very much synchronized....if they are not, you have slop in the box"""
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Old 11-02-2011, 08:01 PM   #51
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Check out the pics. Eveything is covered in Carbon. The PO did say the they drove it to work and back every day, only 3 miles per day, at less than 40mph, for the last 2.5 years before it had its issue. They never got it up to hwy speed to blow the carbon out. I think it will be ok.

Strange there is no gasket at all though.
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Old 11-02-2011, 08:30 PM   #52
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The gasket is still stuck the head
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Old 11-02-2011, 08:48 PM   #53
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Carbon looks normal. Be sure to clean out the lifter valley good. There is some holes between the lifters that are for oil to drain, make sure there not sludge up and blocked. There is 3 spots in there that hold oil but no drain hole so dont try to force anything in there to make a hole.
A wire coat hanger, screwdriver and some brake cleaner should work fine.
Wash the pan.
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Old 11-03-2011, 09:37 AM   #54
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X2 on what Tailhole wrote. I blew a water pump on a Datsun 280, on the highway but close enough to home that I tried to make it in. Didn't. Same symptoms, oil in the coolant, coolant in the oil.

I had a local guy do the head - ground the mating surfaces, ground the valves. Put it back together and it was sucking a quart of oil every 500 miles, leaving a plume 100 feet long behind it. Cost me another teardown to hone the bores and replace the rings.

SO... if it's been cooked, pull it all the way down and replace the rings. Since you'll have it apart anyway, replace the valve springs and the seals too, since they may have been fried.
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Old 11-03-2011, 11:47 AM   #55
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Pete, We've been over that, it's really easy to pull the head of a 4.0 so he's gonna try it first with only a new gasket and a refreshed head.

Good job Itsfun00! From what I can see in the pictures the gasket was blown apart between cylinder 3 and 4.

And don't mess about with the pistons to much, they don't have to shine.
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Old 11-03-2011, 11:52 AM   #56
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Carbon looks normal. Be sure to clean out the lifter valley good. There is some holes between the lifters that are for oil to drain, make sure there not sludge up and blocked. There is 3 spots in there that hold oil but no drain hole so dont try to force anything in there to make a hole.
A wire coat hanger, screwdriver and some brake cleaner should work fine.
Wash the pan.
To get the slush out and clean it up good you could try flushing it with some diesel. Take the sump drain plug out and let it flow....
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Old 11-03-2011, 01:45 PM   #57
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To get the slush out and clean it up good you could try flushing it with some diesel. Take the sump drain plug out and let it flow....

You read my mind. That was my next question...
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Old 11-03-2011, 08:13 PM   #58
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Really need to take it off and wash it. that way you can inspect the oil pump pickup tube/screen
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Old 11-03-2011, 08:51 PM   #59
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Good job Itsfun00! From what I can see in the pictures the gasket was blown apart between cylinder 3 and 4
Thanks, you were right.

Machine shop said a Fel-Pro gasket will be a bit more heavy duty and hold up longer. They said they see this alot because the exhaust ports are so close between those cylinders.

Does getting diesel fuel (accidentally) in pistons hurt them
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Old 11-03-2011, 09:30 PM   #60
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No. wont hurt a thing

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