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Old 11-03-2011, 10:03 PM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Itsfun00 View Post
Thanks, you were right.

Machine shop said a Fel-Pro gasket will be a bit more heavy duty and hold up longer. They said they see this alot because the exhaust ports are so close between those cylinders.
compression ratio and internal tolerances/clearances depend on the head gasket thickness, so make sure you take the new gasket thickness vs stock gasket thickness into account.

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Old 11-04-2011, 09:57 AM   #62
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compression ratio and internal tolerances/clearances depend on the head gasket thickness, so make sure you take the new gasket thickness vs stock gasket thickness into account.
Good point. I will have to do some research and see how it will affect the ratios... I don't know how much thicker it is. Maybe a couple hundreths of an inch.

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Old 11-04-2011, 10:59 AM   #63
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Your guy at the machine shop should know this.

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Really need to take it off and wash it. that way you can inspect the oil pump pickup tube/screen
Yes, you are right. Itsfun00, while you are waiting on the head to be refreshed, drop the sump.
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Old 11-04-2011, 12:00 PM   #64
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while you are waiting on the head to be refreshed, drop the sump.
Ok, Sounds like a good project for tonight!!!
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Old 11-06-2011, 05:50 PM   #65
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Machine shop said head was in great shape. No warping or cracks. He recommended that I use a heavy duty gasket this time because of the previous gasket failure. I bought the fel-pro sd. It has re-enforced rings.

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""".....looking at the input shaft and the output shaft....the two should be very much synchronized....if they are not, you have slop in the box"""
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Old 11-06-2011, 05:53 PM   #66
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They recommended replacing the rockers because of the rust? Should I? I already had them do all new springs because they were rusty, and I could see them failing under tension.


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But I soaked the rockers in diesel and scrubbed all the rust off.
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""".....looking at the input shaft and the output shaft....the two should be very much synchronized....if they are not, you have slop in the box"""
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Old 11-06-2011, 06:01 PM   #67
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Not warped? Hum. That's very odd
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Old 11-06-2011, 06:09 PM   #68
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They recommended replacing the rockers because of the rust? Should I? I already had them do all new springs because they were rusty, and I could see them failing under tension.


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But I soaked the rockers in diesel and scrubbed all the rust off.
As long as the push rod cup, pivot and valve tip end are in good shape, you should be fine
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Old 11-06-2011, 08:01 PM   #69
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As long as the push rod cup, pivot and valve tip end are in good shape, you should be fine
Those parts are in good shape. All that rust was just on the surface and easy to remove.
The pivots are a bit worn underneath where that groove is that goes from narrow to wide. You can tell it wears a bit there because its shiny steel. Is that an issue? or normal?
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Old 11-06-2011, 09:47 PM   #70
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normal.
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Old 11-08-2011, 12:06 PM   #71
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Where's the manifold gasket? Or did you only get the headgasket?
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Old 11-08-2011, 08:34 PM   #72
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I got head, manifold and thermo gaskets. I went with the felpro on the head and thermo but Victor Reinz brand on the manifold. Its metal and double layered (like the original). The felpro manifold gasket was one layer and thicker but I didn't see it being able to expand and contract with heating and cooling like the double layered Victor Reinz.
Then went back and got oil pan gasket...lol...
Got the head back today. Looks great (like new). It was a booger to put the head on myself, so i just lined it up and rested it on and hand tightened the bolts tonight. Tomorrow I will get it all tightened up and put everything back together.
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Old 11-08-2011, 09:59 PM   #73
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I got head, manifold and thermo gaskets. I went with the felpro on the head and thermo but Victor Reinz brand on the manifold. Its metal and double layered (like the original). The felpro manifold gasket was one layer and thicker but I didn't see it being able to expand and contract with heating and cooling like the double layered Victor Reinz.
Then went back and got oil pan gasket...lol...
Got the head back today. Looks great (like new). It was a booger to put the head on myself, so i just lined it up and rested it on and hand tightened the bolts tonight. Tomorrow I will get it all tightened up and put everything back together.
Put a little oil or grease on the threads and under the head of the bolts and need some type of sealer on the threads of the front left bolt (it goes into water)
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Old 11-09-2011, 10:16 AM   #74
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And that bolt has a different torque setting!
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Old 11-09-2011, 01:32 PM   #75
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Thank goodness someone on here led me to a copy of the FSM. I saw the Bolt #11 needed thread sealant and lesser torque setting. I was going to torque it down last night but it got to late and the wrench I bought is in inch pounds. I looked up the conversions but I think I am just going to take it back and get a ft lbs one. Less room for error and the one I got from Autozone says in the manual (after reading through 3 paragraphs) *not guaranteed for accuracy*
Kind of defeats the purpose...
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Old 11-10-2011, 03:49 PM   #76
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Yeah, get a good torque wrench or rent one. Mine is in Nm (newton meters), but I got the conversion down thanks to Google...LOL
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Old 11-11-2011, 02:28 AM   #77
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Wow, talk about a good thread. I'm definitely subscribing to this one for when I need to strip apart my TJ. Thanks to all those who posted with info, questions, and answers!! I hope your projects goin' well Itsfun00!
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Old 11-11-2011, 09:52 AM   #78
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Tailhole - a month behind? Sounds like you have too many customers and not enough profit.

Basic rule of business - don't lose business because you don't have time to do it. Raise your prices a little at a time till your backlog is caught up without cutting any quality or service. You'll still be busy, but make much more profit for yourself. You actually should be at about 90-95% saturation.

Unless of course, it's just a hobby.
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Old 11-11-2011, 07:41 PM   #79
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So, I had the head rebuilt and changed all the gaskets, flushed the radiator, Cleaned out the oil pan (no more sludge), cleaned everything top to bottom, torqued everthing back down exactly to speck and cranked her up today... No Bueno... Ran ok (kind of knocked but I think it was bad gas) for a few minutes, then hell broke loose. I got on the service road and it started knocking like crazy, I let off the accelerator and pulled over and it bogged down and died on me. I waited a few minutes and cranked it back up again, and cranked and cranked... It finally started but I limped her home in 1st. Never overheated but now I have more antifreeze in the oil. Radiator is about 1" low and overfil tank is empty (which was 1/2 full). I think I have a cracked block I am going to pull off the valve cover off tomorrow and take a look around.
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Old 11-11-2011, 07:45 PM   #80
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addition to previous post - I checked the oil level on the dipstick when I got it home just to see and it was about 4 inches above the full level... May be why it bogged down on me on the road, it was getting watered down oil. It wasn't but 10 minutes though. Cracked Block is the only thing I can think of.
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Old 11-11-2011, 08:11 PM   #81
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addition to previous post - I checked the oil level on the dipstick when I got it home just to see and it was about 4 inches above the full level... May be why it bogged down on me on the road, it was getting watered down oil. It wasn't but 10 minutes though. Cracked Block is the only thing I can think of.
Dang. Sure hate that for ya.
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Old 11-11-2011, 08:46 PM   #82
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Tailhole - a month behind? Sounds like you have too many customers and not enough profit.

Basic rule of business - don't lose business because you don't have time to do it. Raise your prices a little at a time till your backlog is caught up without cutting any quality or service. You'll still be busy, but make much more profit for yourself. You actually should be at about 90-95% saturation.

Unless of course, it's just a hobby.
Yea, I've been trying to go up on labor prices. Its imposable to go up on parts with everyone on the internet.
I only sell brand name parts from companies I know,and have a good rep.

I know I lose some customers and there ones that need a motor tomorrow.
I do a lot of custom work and build stuff that you just cant make a call and exchange a core.

Just for example, last couple months. 51 L head jeep, 280z stroked to 3.1, two 540 chevys, one 565 ford, one 408 win ford with yates heads, 1.8 MG midget. few small blocks chevys, 22r, etc etc, and today a geo tracker motor.
To many heads to count. Mostly just check for cracks and surface.

Hobby? haha lol. funny, thats how it all started. now im stuck
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Old 11-11-2011, 08:53 PM   #83
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Wow, talk about a good thread. I'm definitely subscribing to this one for when I need to strip apart my TJ. Thanks to all those who posted with info, questions, and answers!! I hope your projects goin' well Itsfun00!
I've been thinking about the next time a 4.0 comes in, doing a thread on a basic rebuild.
showing all thats involved and the machines that do it.
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Old 11-12-2011, 02:46 AM   #84
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I've been thinking about the next time a 4.0 comes in, doing a thread on a basic rebuild.
showing all thats involved and the machines that do it.
That'd be a good one to. I don't know nearly enough about engines and don't have the tools to work on one, but I'd love to learn.
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Old 11-12-2011, 08:24 AM   #85
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Well, if for nothing else, it was very good experience/education for me. And I got to purchase a nice torque wrench! Always good when you can add a new tool.

I think a detailed write up would be awesome! So many of us have issues w this engine that require a rebuild.

Wish you were here. You could do mine
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""".....looking at the input shaft and the output shaft....the two should be very much synchronized....if they are not, you have slop in the box"""
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Old 11-12-2011, 08:29 AM   #86
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Old 11-12-2011, 05:21 PM   #87
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I would LOVE that... but dont have quite that much to drop into it right now.
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Old 11-14-2011, 06:29 AM   #88
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Darn...talk about bad luck. Sorry to hear it didn't work out.
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Old 11-14-2011, 08:03 AM   #89
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[QUOTE=Itsfun00;1739174]Well, if for nothing else, it was very good experience/education for me. And I got to purchase a nice torque wrench! Always good when you can add a new tool.

This has been one of the better discussions on this forum since I've been watching ... although I'm sort of a newbie. This group of participating mechanics has got to be one of the best kept secrets out there, what with all their experience and their eagerness to help out fellow Jeepers on this forum.

ITSFUN00, how 'bout keeping us posted on your final fix? Your last thought was that you had a cracked block ... but nothing absolute has been determined. It would be great to know how you finally resolve the whole issue and who you take it to, etc, etc.

If you do decide to post your final outcome, maybe you could title the thread "How I Finally Fixed my Engine" or something like that so we can remember who you are and what you went through at the beginning. Also, your photos were excellent (IMO).

Best of luck.
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Old 11-14-2011, 08:06 AM   #90
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Well, if for nothing else, it was very good experience/education for me. And I got to purchase a nice torque wrench! Always good when you can add a new tool.
This has been one of the better discussions on this forum since I've been watching ... although I'm sort of a newbie. This group of participating mechanics has got to be one of the best kept secrets out there, what with all their experience and their eagerness to help out fellow Jeepers on this forum.

ITSFUN00, how 'bout keeping us posted on your final fix? Your last thought was that you had a cracked block ... but nothing absolute has been determined. It would be great to know how you finally resolve the whole issue and who you take it to, etc, etc.

If you do decide to post your final outcome, maybe you could title the thread "How I Finally Fixed my Engine" or something like that so we can remember who you are and what you went through at the beginning. Also, your photos were excellent (IMO).

Best of luck.

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