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Old 11-22-2011, 02:16 PM   #151
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Ok, easiest thing ever to remove once I had the strap wrench. Removed belt, put strap on fan pulley, made sure when it torqued the power steering pulley blocked it from rotating and I got it off with little effort... See pic for placement.

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JEEP Its a four letter word....

""".....looking at the input shaft and the output shaft....the two should be very much synchronized....if they are not, you have slop in the box"""
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Old 11-22-2011, 06:47 PM   #152
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Alright. Now time to tackle all the rusty bolts. And the top two bell housing bolts, hehe

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Old 11-23-2011, 12:30 PM   #153
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Cool!
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Old 11-23-2011, 02:25 PM   #154
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Quote:
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Alright. Now time to tackle all the rusty bolts. And the top two bell housing bolts, hehe
I've been reading about those bell housing bolts. I think I need the E-12 torx socket? and a lot of mountain dew to get me through the hours it is going to take to get to them...
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Old 11-25-2011, 02:23 PM   #155
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To remove the fuel line

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I bought this set (last time I just rented it).

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Makes quick work of it

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JEEP Its a four letter word....

""".....looking at the input shaft and the output shaft....the two should be very much synchronized....if they are not, you have slop in the box"""
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Old 11-25-2011, 02:27 PM   #156
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Nice! You can never have to many tools...lol
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Old 11-25-2011, 08:09 PM   #157
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Nice! You can never have to many tools...lol
Exactly what I thought, and it was only $7. Cheapest tool(s) I think I have ever purchased...
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Old 11-25-2011, 08:20 PM   #158
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Disconnecting the AC lines to pull the engine?

I am almost at the point where I need to disconnect the A/C lines. The two lines run directly in front of the engine, so in order for me to pull the engine I have to remove them.

The system has already been discharged, but where do I disconnect it from? There appear to be a few places where I can unbolt the lines. But where is the easiest? or safest as to not damage the lines?

I read about the quick disconnects by the heater core inlett, and thats about all I can find searching online. Just releasing those won't get them out of my way though. It appears as though I need to completely remove them.
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Old 11-28-2011, 08:47 AM   #159
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Can't help you with that one. ...
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Old 11-28-2011, 03:47 PM   #160
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Where do you all buy your Engine Rebuild Kits?

It appears most retail companies get theirs from Enginetech (who doesn't sell to the public). Even though they are right here in my own back yard in Carrollton...
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Old 11-28-2011, 07:48 PM   #161
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Quote:
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Where do you all buy your Engine Rebuild Kits?

It appears most retail companies get theirs from Enginetech (who doesn't sell to the public). Even though they are right here in my own back yard in Carrollton...
Any machine shop should be able to get the parts you need.
But you need to get sizes before you order parts (piston,rings,bearings)
Get the parts local , if there wrong its easier to take back .
Buying in a kit will save you some money.
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Old 11-28-2011, 09:13 PM   #162
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enginetech is fine, its mostly all reboxed stuff.
Im not real happy with the gaskets they use. But everything else I've seen from them lately seems fine.
I dont use them much, just cus they moved out of memphis and takes two days for me to get parts. And I kind of feel better getting parts that are boxed by the company that made it,so i know what brand is in it
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Old 12-05-2011, 11:05 AM   #163
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What exactly should I have the machine shop do to the block?

Rebore, hone and deck... ?

I was told to have them turn the crank and let them provide the bearings and install that part so they match up?
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Old 12-05-2011, 12:38 PM   #164
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What exactly should I have the machine shop do to the block?

Rebore, hone and deck... ?

I was told to have them turn the crank and let them provide the bearings and install that part so they match up?
Bore and hone. Deck just enough to clean it up.
Install cam bearings and freeze plugs.
Have them check the main bores for size and out of round.

Have them mic the crank, if its on size and not scratched up bad, just polish it.

RODS. check for size and out of round (rework if needed). have new pistons put on. may ask them to install the rings too
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Old 12-07-2011, 10:02 AM   #165
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Bore and hone. Deck just enough to clean it up.
Install cam bearings and freeze plugs.
Have them check the main bores for size and out of round.

Have them mic the crank, if its on size and not scratched up bad, just polish it.

RODS. check for size and out of round (rework if needed). have new pistons put on. may ask them to install the rings too

Thanks

another quick question.

Where do I put the chains to pull the engine? I know under/around the block, but is there a weaker part I want to stay clear from?
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Old 12-07-2011, 12:18 PM   #166
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Here's something I wanted to show you earlier but couldn't find it anymore because I thought it was posted on here.

Here ya go:

2.5-4.0 swap is underway!! - JeepForum.com
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Old 12-07-2011, 05:38 PM   #167
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tonycrd View Post
Here's something I wanted to show you earlier but couldn't find it anymore because I thought it was posted on here.

Here ya go:

2.5-4.0 swap is underway!! - JeepForum.com

Thats is Awesome... They made that look easy

It was 23 degrees when I woke up today and its been so cold the last few days I haven't even gone into the garage to look at her...lol
But I am off this weekend and have NO excuses.
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Old 12-11-2011, 12:02 PM   #168
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This is a tricky part to remove. I had to remove it to get to one of the bell housing bolts. Thanks again to forum members for helping me through. Turns out you carefully snap the swivel part off then pinch in the clips and pull it out.

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JEEP Its a four letter word....

""".....looking at the input shaft and the output shaft....the two should be very much synchronized....if they are not, you have slop in the box"""
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Old 12-11-2011, 12:34 PM   #169
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Itsfun00

Thanks

another quick question.

Where do I put the chains to pull the engine? I know under/around the block, but is there a weaker part I want to stay clear from?
I put one chain link on a head bolt on the drivers side towards the back and tightened a nut over it.. and took the alternator off and used the top bolt going through the bracket to go through another chain link
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Old 12-11-2011, 03:45 PM   #170
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Good idea.
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JEEP Its a four letter word....

""".....looking at the input shaft and the output shaft....the two should be very much synchronized....if they are not, you have slop in the box"""
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Old 12-11-2011, 03:49 PM   #171
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Worked perfectly for me.. :-) hope it helps you.. I was recently in a similar situation as you.. fortunately I was able to get a great deal on a 99 motor with a redone head..
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Old 12-18-2011, 02:41 PM   #172
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So, my bell housing didn't have those torques sockets like everyone's talking about I have 15 millimeter bolts ... lucky I guess
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JEEP Its a four letter word....

""".....looking at the input shaft and the output shaft....the two should be very much synchronized....if they are not, you have slop in the box"""
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Old 12-18-2011, 06:44 PM   #173
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Finally, after a few weeks of working on it every now and then after work, and a few Sundays I got it out and its off to the machine shop to become a STROKER..... Hopefully its back for my jeep clubs Christmas run! It will be our first time out!

This was my first time doing anything more advanced than a brake job and I have to say, thanks to the forum members, it wasn't that bad....

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JEEP Its a four letter word....

""".....looking at the input shaft and the output shaft....the two should be very much synchronized....if they are not, you have slop in the box"""
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Old 12-18-2011, 07:42 PM   #174
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Im gonna be building a 4l we have laying around in my buddies garage to a stroker.. doing a 4.7? Im still debating on 4.6 or 7.. working on blueprinting it now, reading a lot into it since i plan on keeping it on low to mid octane with a low dynamic compression ratio.. :-) what are your plans? Im thinking of starting a stroker thread documenting my whole process
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Old 12-18-2011, 08:53 PM   #175
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Im gonna be building a 4l we have laying around in my buddies garage to a stroker.. doing a 4.7? Im still debating on 4.6 or 7.. working on blueprinting it now, reading a lot into it since i plan on keeping it on low to mid octane with a low dynamic compression ratio.. :-) what are your plans? Im thinking of starting a stroker thread documenting my whole process
I was going to rebuild it myself but the local machine shop said they would do a 4.6 stroker for me for for a couple hundred more than a standard rebuild (the owner has one and loves it) and since I am doing the removal and instalation myself, its really reasonable. Less than 1/2 the price of buying the 4.6 Golden Stroker (supposedly the best) and it will be the same thing.

I thought of purchasing the Titan engine they have on Ebay listed as the High Performance 4.0 242 for $1895. I called them about it to see what it was all about. They said its the engine they build for their JeepSpeed race Jeep. The shipping was just to much for me to justify so i got lucky and found this shop.
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Old 12-18-2011, 09:10 PM   #176
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Nice.. im going to blueprint it all, and take it in and have them machine it then assemble it myself.. this will be my first motor build and I've got a friend who's interested in buying it so he'll be the guinea pig and ill put it in his yj..
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Old 12-18-2011, 09:15 PM   #177
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I've got a bit more research and reading to do though.. luckily im not at home to be tempted to start early.. I hope to be done by march.

Id be interested to see what parts they use in yours.. im still debating what way I wanna go with mine in case I cant sell it lol
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Old 12-18-2011, 09:22 PM   #178
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You can get some good ideas on the stroker forum Jeepstrokers.com
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Old 12-18-2011, 09:26 PM   #179
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Yeah I've been looking at various websites.. lots to consider really..
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Old 12-20-2011, 06:54 AM   #180
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Finally, after a few weeks of working on it every now and then after work, and a few Sundays I got it out and its off to the machine shop to become a STROKER.....
......

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