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Old 02-06-2010, 04:13 PM   #1
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4.55 or 4.88 I only want to do this once lol

Hey guys I currently have 33x1050's and will eventually upgrade to 1250's or 35/1250's. I have 3.07's in it right now which the thing is seriously painful to drive. I had it in my head that I wanted 4.55 untill I saw that quadratec said 4.88 will help to make up the diff in torque loss from 33's to 35's. This is my daily driver and I dont go on the high way alot but I want to be able to make 75-80 without killing my jeep. So if you have them what would you recommend? I only want to do this once since im looking at over a thousand dollars to have this done. (for gears and rebuild kits) Thanks for all the reply's

Jesse

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Old 02-06-2010, 08:44 PM   #2
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We need to know what transmission you have before a good recommendation can be made.

But if you have the more common 5-speed manual, then 4.88 is ideal for 35" tires and liveable with 33" tires until you upgrade to 35" tires. I would not want to run 4.56 with 35" tires. I used to have 4.10 with 33" tires which produces similar engine rpms & performance as 4.56 would with 35" tires & I hated it.

When I still had my 5-speed manual transmission, my 4.88 gearing with 35" tires was absolutely ideal. I still run 4.88 gearing with 35" tires but it's no longer ideal for me since I converted from my former 5-speed manual to the more rock-worthy 3-speed automatic. It's great offroad but the higher rpms the 3-speed automatic produces on the highway are a bit higher than is ideal.

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Old 02-06-2010, 09:02 PM   #3
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I had 4.56's with 5spd, 35's and heavy one ton axles, it did okay, 4.88's certainly would have been better but 70-75mph was not an issue. Also what rear axle is in your jeep? 35's and low gears even in a unlocked dana 35 don't go well. Dana 44 no issues.
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Old 02-06-2010, 10:54 PM   #4
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sorry guys should of put more info in. I do have a dana 44 and the tranny is a 6spd. Right now it basically seems like the engine has to work for ever to get me up to speed. Now I know jeeps are not fast but my gas mileage went down 70 miles shifting at 2k. I also know that I bought a jeep! and they are not gas worthy for crap. BUT! lol I hate going 70 on the high way and have no passing power what so ever/ or any acceleration what so ever. Basically I just want well rounded power as I can get with my 33's. O also, Im getting a powertrax locker in the rear that will fit the ring gear but will I need a new carrier for the front. Im guessing so just curious.
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Old 02-07-2010, 08:53 AM   #5
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Google gear ratio/tire sizing. You will find some charts that show what your Stock tire/Stock axle ratio is now.

The chart then shows if you go to 35-36" tires and what gear ratio would equal the same driving experience.

I have 36s with 4.88s and they work fine.

Keep in mind...Jeep put 3.07 gears in but they aren't great for comfortable driving. 3.55 gears are more common and provide good all around power. So I would use 3.55 as your first number.

Short answer...You will probably end up at 35s cause they look good. Thus you will probably want to do this ONCE at 4.88s. Consider if your going with a full detroit locker or not. Cause that needs to be installed with the gear setup. If you go with a lunch box locker, then you don't need to reset the gears.
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Old 02-07-2010, 09:39 AM   #6
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Would there be an issue using 4.88 gears in a Dana 35 or super 35 for that matter?I read something about pinion gear size being too large with 4.88 in the d35.
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Old 02-07-2010, 11:04 AM   #7
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Google gear ratio/tire sizing. You will find some charts that show what your Stock tire/Stock axle ratio is now.

The chart then shows if you go to 35-36" tires and what gear ratio would equal the same driving experience.
No, they don't show what will give the "same driving experience", they only show what the rpms will be at a 1:1 final drive ratio (not in Overdrive) which can be extremely misleading to the novice.

For example, let's say you have 30" tires and are getting 2400 rpms at 70 mph. So you go to the charts find find that some certain ratio will give you 2400 rpms at 70 mph so you regear to that ratio. So you regear to that ratio & go drive it but within a few miles, you go WTF I don't have near the power I used to & can't figure out why because you're at the same exact rpms you had before when you had 30" tires.

What has happened is all this: 1) The Jeep has a suspension lift so it has more wind resistance because it sits up taller in the windstream. 2) The bigger tire's longer radius against the axle shaft means it has more leverage against the drivetrain so it's harder to turn. 3) The bigger tire weighs more & is harder to rotate, not to mention being harder to stop. 4) The bigger tire has more rolling resistance. 5) Your Jeep is more armored with skidplates etc. so it is heavier, not to mention the heavier tires again.

What you have to do is talk with someone with actual experience, you can't just rely on charts as way too many think they can. You have to regear so you end up with slightly higher rpms than you had with smaller tires to truly compensate for everything. The charts can be a guideline but they're not the end-all answer to what ratio to go with. It's best to ask someone who understands the whole thing & will take into account all that plus the transmission type. Especially since the charts never show rpms for once you're in overdrive. If you have a 5-speed transmission, for example, your engine will only show the same rpms as the chart gives when you're in 4th gear. So with any modern Jeep transmission, your highway rpms will always be significantly (!) lower than what the chart says it will be because all charts show their rpms with a 1:1 final drive ratio like 4th gear gives if you have a 5-speed.
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Old 02-07-2010, 01:17 PM   #8
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I would run 4.88's. IN mine now I run 5.13's on 33's with a 5 speed and turn 3200 at 75ish. It runs like A RAPED ape too very nice and also the crawl ratio is amazing in 4lo
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Old 02-07-2010, 01:49 PM   #9
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If you have a 5-speed transmission, for example, your engine will only show the same rpms as the chart gives when you're in 4th gear. So with any modern Jeep transmission, your highway rpms will always be significantly (!) lower than what the chart says it will be because all charts show their rpms with a 1:1 final drive ratio like 4th gear gives if you have a 5-speed.
Now that is some handy info to know right there!
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Old 02-07-2010, 03:34 PM   #10
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Ok so I am gonna do 4.88's whats the diff between and lunchbox locker and a detroit?
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Old 02-07-2010, 03:48 PM   #11
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whats the diff between and lunchbox locker and a detroit?
Both are fully automatic lockers. The Detroit Locker entirely replaces the carrier inside the differential that holds the ring gear & spider gears and is the smoothest operating automatic locker bar none. It's called a full case (or carrier) locker and is the strongest of the two types because it replaces the entire carrier. You also need to have this type of locker professionally installed unless you can adjust the backlash between the ring & pinion gears.

A lunchbox locker is inserted into the existing carrier and it replaces the spider gears. It's physically smaller so it can fit inside the carrier so it isn't as strong as a full case locker which also includes ARB Air Lockers. Neither are they as smooth operating on the street as a Detroit Locker is.

But neither type of locker should ever be installed into a Dana 35c axle like is most commonly found in TJ Wranglers. Only install a rear locker if you have the stronger optional extra-cost Dana 44 axle, or if you upgrade the rear Dana 35c with a Super 35 or C-Clip Eliminator kit from Superior Axle.

If you have a Dana 35c rear axle and don't want to pay the $$$ to upgrade it, install a lunchbox locker into your front Dana 30 that is strong enough for a locker.

Hope that helps.
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Old 02-07-2010, 07:23 PM   #12
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ok so I guess I answered my own question thanks

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