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Old 03-17-2008, 12:17 AM   #1
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4.56 or 4.88 with 35s

I have a 97 TJ 4.0L High Output I-6 with a 5.5" Long Arm lift kit. I'm gonna put 35" tires on it and i could use some advice on my gears. I have 4.10s in it now and am considering 4.56 or 4.88 gears. I want to have a like-stock or better-than-stock ride so which ones? Thanks
~wynn

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Old 03-17-2008, 12:28 AM   #2
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what transmission do you have
I'm running 4.56 with 35's and I have the 3speed auto
it I had the overdrive tranny or a 5speed standard I would have gone with 4.88's mostly for the lower offroad gearing

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Old 03-17-2008, 12:28 AM   #3
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Auto or Stick?

Either way, 4.88's would be the way to go really.
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Old 03-17-2008, 12:32 AM   #4
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idk exactly what transmission I have but I know its a 5 speed stick.. Good! I was hopin yall'd say 4.88s
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Old 03-17-2008, 02:47 AM   #5
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yep I agree with the 5 speed I would go 4.88's
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Old 03-17-2008, 08:11 AM   #6
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4.88
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Old 03-17-2008, 01:59 PM   #7
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4.88 btw you have a ax15 for your tranny.
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flowmaster40,hpd30 with aussie locker,currie upper joints,4.88's, lca skids,chromo shafts,vanco brakes,d35 with super 35 and arb locker,re 4.5" springs,currie arms,re front uppers,Re shocks in back,walkerevens shocks up front, Re track bars with currie jj joints,anti rock,ss brake lines,re rear sway bar links,jks 1.25" bl and mml,bfg 35x12.5 km2's,craiger soft 8's,ome steering stabilizer,currie hd steering,rockmen front bumper,emp tank skid,lots more too.
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Old 03-17-2008, 02:51 PM   #8
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Alright thanks yall 4.88 it is. One question though: how bad is this gonna make my jeep run in 5th gear?
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Old 03-17-2008, 03:13 PM   #9
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With 35's it should bring it back close to stock.
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Old 03-17-2008, 03:24 PM   #10
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Go 4.88 for sure. I ran the 4.88/35" tire/5-speed combination for years in my TJ and 4.88 is ideal for that tire size and transmission combination. 4.56 just doesn't go quite far enough towards restoring the performance lost with a 35" tire. It'll be sweet in 5th gear too, RPMs won't be too high (2750 at 70 mph) and you'll have plenty of power at highway speeds.
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Old 03-17-2008, 05:02 PM   #11
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Go 4.88 for sure. I ran the 4.88/35" tire/5-speed combination for years in my TJ and 4.88 is ideal for that tire size and transmission combination. 4.56 just doesn't go quite far enough towards restoring the performance lost with a 35" tire. It'll be sweet in 5th gear too, RPMs won't be too high (2750 at 70 mph) and you'll have plenty of power at highway speeds.
awesome and i'd assume i'd be able to crawl in 2h 1st gear right? if not, it doesn't matter thats why i have 4L
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Old 03-17-2008, 05:25 PM   #12
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awesome and i'd assume i'd be able to crawl in 2h 1st gear right? if not, it doesn't matter thats why i have 4L
I dunno, I never tried to crawl in 2Hi but it's sweet in 4Lo.
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Old 03-17-2008, 05:31 PM   #13
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I dunno, I never tried to crawl in 2Hi but it's sweet in 4Lo.
yea i'd imagine. man i can't wait to put em in and test em out
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Old 03-17-2008, 05:42 PM   #14
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Ok so I put the Jeep on the rack today and looked the diffs over and I think the front is D30 and rear D35 and the gearing is 3.07 with 3 speed auto now my question the front cover has REV on it does this simply mean it is reverse cut or something else and if the front is reverse cut I assume the rear would be normal cut is this correct and what would be my options on gearing?I would like to go 4.56 being only 3 speed I assume this would be good considering it really doesn't do to bad right now so any input i would be greatfull.As far as DO-it -yourself??? I have put new pinion seals and spiders and even new ring carrier bearings but have never changed ring and pinion.
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Old 03-17-2008, 05:54 PM   #15
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Your TJ's front Dana 30 runs straight cut gears, it's the YJ and XJ that run reverse-cut gears in the front axle. The proper axle ratio depends on what size tires you plan to run. R&P gear jobs are not for the casual home mechanic, you really need to know what you're doing to avoid turning the new gears into toast in short order. That or have at least an entire weekend (or two) to learn by doing so long as you have patience, detailed instructions with photos, and the right tools like a dial indicator for measuring the backlash.

I do all of my TJ's work short of engine overhauls but I won't tackle an R&P installation. I've paid for two R&P installs and that was $$$ well spent.
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Old 03-17-2008, 06:08 PM   #16
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I can rebuild a engien and measure and check and do all the needed stuff to rebuild a engien but have never done a r&p but would love to learn how to. I have a general idea.
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Old 03-17-2008, 07:34 PM   #17
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I have done inner and outter axle bearings for customers before and with the inner the hog head has to be pulled from the houseing and new shims at the time of reinstall but I hate doing it is the thing cause the least little bit off and you get a wine or a roar and I do have patients to a pointI have even done one once about 3 years ago just by feel and got it right the first time with no noise and it is a still going to this day.But aside all that I am running 33s and don't plan on going any bigger any time soon.Now with 3.07 gears I would have to go with carrier and all correct?If so would it be more practical to go ahead and put a locker in the rear at the same time???? P.S never done 4x4 either it has been 2wd chevy and ford full size.
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Old 03-17-2008, 07:56 PM   #18
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The TJ's axle doesn't have a 3rd member (hogs head) that can be removed to make an R&P installation easier. It has to be done inside the axle housing.
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Old 03-17-2008, 08:29 PM   #19
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Good info Jerry.Haven't had the cover off one yet.That tells me POF4x4 will be getting a call from me.So what would I be lookin at for the R&P both,rear Locker,and if the carries doesn't come out what else will I need???
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Old 03-17-2008, 08:53 PM   #20
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Jerry I just done a search and found pics of the D35 R&P and the carrier unbolts with end caps the same as most other rear ends I have worked on so the carrier does come out so what are you talking about cant be removed for the regearing?
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Old 03-18-2008, 10:20 AM   #21
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Jerry I just done a search and found pics of the D35 R&P and the carrier unbolts with end caps the same as most other rear ends I have worked on so the carrier does come out so what are you talking about cant be removed for the regearing?
When you talked about a "hogs head" I just assumed you meant the usual 3rd member like a Ford 9" axle has that a Jeep Dana axle does not. It is a separate removable unit that contains the pinion shaft, carrier, and ring gear that is assembled, set up, then installed into the axle housing as a finished unit. That is commonly called a "hogs head" because it physically resembles one. I had no idea you were referring to the carrier which absolutely needs to come out in a Dana axle for a R&P job. The carrier used in a Dana axle isn't usually referred to as a hog's head, at least I had never heard it called that because it's nothing like a 3rd member that physically resembles one.
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Old 03-18-2008, 10:43 AM   #22
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By the way, here's a pic of a 3rd member, you can see why they're often called a "hog's head".

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Old 03-18-2008, 04:25 PM   #23
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When you talked about a "hogs head" I just assumed you meant the usual 3rd member like a Ford 9" axle has that a Jeep Dana axle does not. It is a separate removable unit that contains the pinion shaft, carrier, and ring gear that is assembled, set up, then installed into the axle housing as a finished unit. That is commonly called a "hogs head" because it physically resembles one. I had no idea you were referring to the carrier which absolutely needs to come out in a Dana axle for a R&P job. The carrier used in a Dana axle isn't usually referred to as a hog's head, at least I had never heard it called that because it's nothing like a 3rd member that physically resembles one.
Yeah I did say hog head because I was thinking of one perticular job I had done once but yeah anyway I was reffering to the carrier were you have to unbolt the end caps and pull the races,bearings and shims out to change the bearings.but yeah the 3rd member does not unbolt to be able to work on it on the bench or nothing I knew that but the carrier still has to be removed to get the ring gear off but like I said I still hate messing with the dead nuts deal of an R&P so I will most likely use a "life-line" on this one

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