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Old 10-22-2011, 11:14 AM   #1
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4" or 6" lift on 33's?

Ive had a few threads recently about getting rid of my Jeep's body lift, and puttin on a bigger suspension lift. Thanks for those who have helped me so far. Im currently still in the planning phase
Currently my jeep's on a 2"-2.5" suspension lift, and a 3" body lift

When im taking my body lift off, im not sure if i want a 4" or 6" lift. I know most people run the 4" lift on 33's. However, my jeep currently has 5" of lift if you add suspension and body, and im not sure how i feel about goin down to a 4" lift from a looks standpoint. Obivously the 4" suspension lift will give me more droop for flexing, but i dont want my buddies joking about me "downsizing" so to speak.

Im most likely gunna be doing a Rough Country lift... and yes i know what their reputation is. But u cant beat it on a budget.
My assumption is that both the 4" and 6" (links below) kits are complete kits, meaning the only other thing i would need to run the kit is a sye and cv driveshaft. Is this correct?
EDIT: I think they need bumpstops as well

Jeep TJ N2-Series Suspension Lift

Jeep TJ Wrangler Suspension Lift

Finally, how would a 6" lift look on 33's? would it be funny lookin?
I deffiently dont have the budget to run 35's.
Thanks for reading

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Old 10-22-2011, 04:04 PM   #2
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Keep in mind with a 4" you will be gaining some cog. At 6" you will be pretty top heavy. In reality you'll be droppin 1"....I can't imagine your friends will even be able to see the difference, plus you'll be a little safer....you can always add a cheap 1" bl if its that bad and come out equal

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Old 10-22-2011, 04:22 PM   #3
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I wouldn't run 33's with a 6" lift... I've got 33's with 4.25" of lift and there's a lot of room in the wheel wells. It may look disproportional with a 6" lift.

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Old 10-22-2011, 04:25 PM   #4
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4" is absolutely ideal for 33" tires. I wouldn't run a 6" lift even with 35" tires.
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Old 10-22-2011, 06:27 PM   #5
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I wouldn't run a 6" lift even with 35" tires.
Me either! I run 4+3 with 35's! Lol

But to the OP, 4" looks great with 33's. Have you concidered running tube fenders and dropping your body lift down to about 1.25 inches so you can still do a tummy tuck? I'm thinking that you could run the lift you already have and put the money towards the tube fenders instead of a new lift, and maybe you could cut the body lift you already have down to 1.25 inches.... Lower suspension lift will keep your control arm angles more reasonable.
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Old 10-22-2011, 09:44 PM   #6
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Me either! I run 4+3 with 35's! Lol

But to the OP, 4" looks great with 33's. Have you concidered running tube fenders and dropping your body lift down to about 1.25 inches so you can still do a tummy tuck? I'm thinking that you could run the lift you already have and put the money towards the tube fenders instead of a new lift, and maybe you could cut the body lift you already have down to 1.25 inches.... Lower suspension lift will keep your control arm angles more reasonable.
Ive never really liked body lifts. I guess i could do tube fenders...i dont know much about em...but i know metalcloaks run over $500 bucks anyway. Wouldnt i get more flex out of doing a lift?

When i picked the jeep up i assumed it was only an inch of body lift, because thats what most people do. It was several months before i broke out the tape measure, and realized the body lift was three inches.

I like the idea of no body lift, and possibly goin for the tummy tuck (i think its by aev) that requires no body lift. I think ive seen the skids for a normal tummy tuck go for around $250, so add another $150 for the BL and MML, and its starting to get close in price to the $500 for the tummy tuck that doesnt need a BL.

I linked a 4 inch lift in the first post. I know RC's product isnt known to be the highest quality product out there. But for my uses, the RC will (probably) hold up fine. Would it be really dumb to not get control arms like savvy that have the johnny joints? The RC kit says it only comes with lowers -lower tubular control arms- These are adjustable i assume?...so i can set my pinion angle right?

One question i have is whether or not the kit i linked to includes everything i need to get the job done right. The only things that seemed off to me were the control arms mentioned above, and that the kit doesnt come with bumpstops. Is there anything else missing?

Also, does anyone have experience with RC's sye and extended driveshaft?
RC sells the sye and driveshaft for about $100 less than a Tom Wood. Im sure there is a reason for that, so thats why Im asking.

Im no expert, all of my jeep knowledge has come from this forum over the last few months...so im sorry if i misused any terms.
Thanks for the help
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Old 10-22-2011, 09:48 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by s3nt3nc3d View Post
I wouldn't run 33's with a 6" lift... I've got 33's with 4.25" of lift and there's a lot of room in the wheel wells. It may look disproportional with a 6" lift.

Thats nice man. I dont think it looks disproportional or like alot of room in the wells. Hell check out the room i have now.



Im deffiently sporting atleast the same amount of room, if not more.
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Old 10-22-2011, 09:58 PM   #8
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i dont want my buddies joking about me "downsizing" so to speak.
Put a locker in there so you can laugh at them when they can't make it through half the stuff you cruise through.
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Old 10-22-2011, 10:02 PM   #9
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Put a locker in there so you can laugh at them when they can't make it through half the stuff you cruise through.
I wish buddy. Deffiently not wasting $ on locking my crap D35. If i ever toast it though, i can assure you that ill be throwing in a locked 8.8
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Old 10-22-2011, 10:06 PM   #10
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I wish buddy. Deffiently not wasting $ on locking my crap D35. If i ever toast it though, i can assure you that ill be throwing in a locked 8.8
Then lock just the front. That'll put you through at least 30% more of what your super-lifted non-locked buddies can make it through
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Old 10-22-2011, 10:09 PM   #11
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Then lock just the front. That'll put you through at least 30% more of what your super-lifted non-locked buddies can make it through
Ill put that on the list. Ill be emptying every pocket for sure haha
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Old 10-22-2011, 10:33 PM   #12
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A 6" lift would be a bad idea in many ways IMO. Too much lift equals far too high cog. Dont worry about what your friends think.

If they think having a tall lift is the best thing you need to do, than there opinions are very uneducated! Just my opinion though
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Old 10-22-2011, 10:50 PM   #13
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A 6" lift would be a bad idea in many ways IMO. Too much lift equals far too high cog. Dont worry about what your friends think.

If they think having a tall lift is the best thing you need to do, than there opinions are very uneducated! Just my opinion though
Based on the fact i read this forum alot, and i know s3nt3nc3d, Jerry, Necromancer, and yourself are all well reputed posters, id be crazy to ignore all of your input and go with the 6". Ill be going with the 4"

Just wanted some opinoins, and i got the best ones out there haha.

It was more of a ball busting thing. I didnt wanna get the 4", and later think i could have gone bigger. But now i know 4" is deffiently the right choice. All that its down to now is seeing if the RC kit linked in the first post fits my needs. Itd be great if someone could address the couple of questions i asked in post #6
Thanks again guys
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Old 10-22-2011, 10:56 PM   #14
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One thing I didn't think about before is that you need to be mindful of what modifications were made to fit the 3" BL. They may need to be reversed when taking it off. Radiator shroud, TC linkage comes to mind first. Make sure your TC linkage is disconnected before removing the BL. If I were you, I'd try cutting the pucks down to just one inch. You'd still have to work on the shroud and linkage though.

4" SL + 1" BL = 35s and TT and/or fuel skid lift options
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Old 10-22-2011, 10:57 PM   #15
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I have heard that the RC arms are horrid due to their joint design and poly bushings make for a bad ride. I don't have them so i don't know from experience so take what I say with a grain of salt.
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Old 10-22-2011, 11:01 PM   #16
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I would also run the 4 inch with no or small BL. It is worth it. You will have plenty of flex out of 4 inches, and you won't be limited by suspension travel until you get to 37+ inch tires after you do everything else. You really want to keep your COG low. Its really hard to set up a good rig with 6 inches that is nimble on the tough trails. Now that my .02 cents is in....

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Originally Posted by Briangr View Post
Ive never really liked body lifts. I guess i could do tube fenders...i dont know much about em...but i know metalcloaks run over $500 bucks anyway. Wouldnt i get more flex out of doing a lift?

When i picked the jeep up i assumed it was only an inch of body lift, because thats what most people do. It was several months before i broke out the tape measure, and realized the body lift was three inches.

I like the idea of no body lift, and possibly goin for the tummy tuck (i think its by aev) that requires no body lift. I think ive seen the skids for a normal tummy tuck go for around $250, so add another $150 for the BL and MML, and its starting to get close in price to the $500 for the tummy tuck that doesnt need a BL.

I linked a 4 inch lift in the first post. I know RC's product isnt known to be the highest quality product out there. But for my uses, the RC will (probably) hold up fine. Would it be really dumb to not get control arms like savvy that have the johnny joints? The RC kit says it only comes with lowers -lower tubular control arms- These are adjustable i assume?...so i can set my pinion angle right?

One question i have is whether or not the kit i linked to includes everything i need to get the job done right. The only things that seemed off to me were the control arms mentioned above, and that the kit doesnt come with bumpstops. Is there anything else missing?

Also, does anyone have experience with RC's sye and extended driveshaft?
RC sells the sye and driveshaft for about $100 less than a Tom Wood. Im sure there is a reason for that, so thats why Im asking.

Im no expert, all of my jeep knowledge has come from this forum over the last few months...so im sorry if i misused any terms.
Thanks for the help

You would get more flex out of 6 inches of lift, but it would not neccessarily be useable. its kinda complicated to comepare, but leave it at this, 4 inches will be a ton of flex compared to 2 inches.

You can go either way you want to on the TT, but the BL will let a little extra room for flex, and also gives you some more room to work up under the jeep IMO.

RC is fine, you get what you pay for. Its not crap, but its not the BEST. you can upgrade your arms if you want, but I feel you would be better going with another 4 inch lift. If your gona go big and do this, you might as well shoot for quality.

The CA's should be adjustable. I can't imagine they aren't.

I am sure there is some stuff like adj track bars and bumpstops that you need to get. Didn't really look at the kit because I am tired as hell. lol.

I have no experience with the RC sye/cv but like I said earlier, if you are going big and doing this once, pay a little bit more for the quality. The support that tom is known for is unrivaled. I wouldn't hesitate to save up for his product.
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Old 10-22-2011, 11:06 PM   #17
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I have heard that the RC arms are horrid due to their joint design and poly bushings make for a bad ride. I don't have them so i don't know from experience so take what I say with a grain of salt.
Tis what ive heard too, but just like you its what Ive "heard" I have no first hand experience with RC's arms, just their 2.5" rear springs! An arm with Johnny Joints on both ends will have a great affect to your handling on and off road, but if the extra for them is worth it to you is personal choice!

Look at it this way, atleast you will start out with a decent kit lift that you can eventually fine tune and figure what works best for your personal needs from your rig

It definitely pays to do it correct the first time, I can attest to that. And the whole TT thing is awesome to think about. If you were to install a completely flat TT which is possible with a 1.25" BL you can gain about 3" of tc clearance. Thats equal to running 37"s on your rig, while only having to run 33"s
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Old 10-22-2011, 11:20 PM   #18
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Here is a friends LJ with the RC 4" N2 kit with 35" tires. He did very well off road with out disconnecting the sway bar.
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Old 10-22-2011, 11:25 PM   #19
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IMO well offroad and not disconnecting the sway bar don't belong in the same sentence... but hey whatever floats your boat. Just makes you wonder if there are underlying issues if he would disco.
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Old 10-22-2011, 11:26 PM   #20
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One thing I didn't think about before is that you need to be mindful of what modifications were made to fit the 3" BL. They may need to be reversed when taking it off. Radiator shroud, TC linkage comes to mind first. Make sure your TC linkage is disconnected before removing the BL. If I were you, I'd try cutting the pucks down to just one inch. You'd still have to work on the shroud and linkage though.

4" SL + 1" BL = 35s and TT and/or fuel skid lift options
Yupp, i considered all that. My guess was if i can get the lift and driveshaft on, that those will be the easy parts of the job.

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Originally Posted by InvertChaos View Post
I have heard that the RC arms are horrid due to their joint design and poly bushings make for a bad ride. I don't have them so i don't know from experience so take what I say with a grain of salt.
My first problem is that im gunna use whatever the cheap shocks are that come with the kit. You wont hear any complaints from me though. Im fully aware the that Rough County = Rough Ride. Im comfortable with the idea of a rough riding jeep. Hell, the shocks on there now are whatever came with the Skyjacker lift the PO put on, and they aint too great either.

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I would also run the 4 inch with no or small BL. It is worth it. You will have plenty of flex out of 4 inches, and you won't be limited by suspension travel until you get to 37+ inch tires after you do everything else. You really want to keep your COG low. Its really hard to set up a good rig with 6 inches that is nimble on the tough trails. Now that my .02 cents is in....




You would get more flex out of 6 inches of lift, but it would not neccessarily be useable. its kinda complicated to comepare, but leave it at this, 4 inches will be a ton of flex compared to 2 inches.

You can go either way you want to on the TT, but the BL will let a little extra room for flex, and also gives you some more room to work up under the jeep IMO.

RC is fine, you get what you pay for. Its not crap, but its not the BEST. you can upgrade your arms if you want, but I feel you would be better going with another 4 inch lift. If your gona go big and do this, you might as well shoot for quality.

The CA's should be adjustable. I can't imagine they aren't.

I am sure there is some stuff like adj track bars and bumpstops that you need to get. Didn't really look at the kit because I am tired as hell. lol.

I have no experience with the RC sye/cv but like I said earlier, if you are going big and doing this once, pay a little bit more for the quality. The support that tom is known for is unrivaled. I wouldn't hesitate to save up for his product.
IMO, im sure others disagree, but my wrangler is a 98. Dont get me wrong, i love her, but she doesnt need the holy grail of lift kits at this stage in her career. I do alot of trails, and plan to get into some more difficult terrian this spring and summer, so im lookin for something that will hold up, but by no means is top of the line. Im probably going to go with RC for the lift, but as far as sye and driveshaft, it may be worth spending a little more.

Okay, so the kit doesnt say anything about the CA's, other than that it comes with them. Ill have to find out if they are adjustable. If they werent for some reason, i deffiently wouldnt consider this kit.

The kit also only comes with a track bar drop bracket for the rear. Does that suffice? or do i need to address the front track bar as well?

I already noticed the kit doesnt include bumpstops, so i knew id be picking those up.

Id love if someone who has the RC sye and driveshaft could chime in, but i wouldnt be suprised if alot of people dont run it, just because thats a part worth getting from a company with better rep. We'll see.

Thanks for the help thus far
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Old 10-22-2011, 11:31 PM   #21
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I know what you mean, but realise that these jeeps are the only ones. The TJs we have now are all the world has. Thats why I take good care of mine. I plan on keeping it forever. so I plan on putting high quality parts into it. I understand the smart spending as well though. I don't have anything against RC, just shooting the wind.

I would get adjustable front and rear track bars with a 4 inch lift.

I am sure they are adjustable.
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Old 10-22-2011, 11:35 PM   #22
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I don't remember where I heard it (it was probably here though) but either the front or rear adjustable can rub the diff so the bracket should be used (but welded). I can't remember front or back but it was one of them.
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Old 10-22-2011, 11:36 PM   #23
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Tis what ive heard too, but just like you its what Ive "heard" I have no first hand experience with RC's arms, just their 2.5" rear springs! An arm with Johnny Joints on both ends will have a great affect to your handling on and off road, but if the extra for them is worth it to you is personal choice!

Look at it this way, atleast you will start out with a decent kit lift that you can eventually fine tune and figure what works best for your personal needs from your rig

It definitely pays to do it correct the first time, I can attest to that. And the whole TT thing is awesome to think about. If you were to install a completely flat TT which is possible with a 1.25" BL you can gain about 3" of tc clearance. Thats equal to running 37"s on your rig, while only having to run 33"s
Im aware that rough country aint a good ride, and im aware that alot of people would say doin a rough country lift isnt "doing it right". But i deffiently wanna try out RC at some point in my lifetime, if i dont like it, i wont go to them again. Itd be a different story if the RC CA's didnt last as long, or something like that, but as long as ride quality is the only factor affected, its worth a shot in my book.

Im considering doing one of AEV's TT to keep body lift off my jeep. AEV has a skid that requires no body lift. Do you know anything about that one? and if it gets around the same amount of clearance
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Old 10-22-2011, 11:41 PM   #24
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I know what you mean, but realise that these jeeps are the only ones. The TJs we have now are all the world has. Thats why I take good care of mine. I plan on keeping it forever. so I plan on putting high quality parts into it. I understand the smart spending as well though. I don't have anything against RC, just shooting the wind.

I would get adjustable front and rear track bars with a 4 inch lift.

I am sure they are adjustable.
Very true man. Id love to hang on to the TJ for as long as i could. Ill deffiently be the one to kill mine, wont ever have it up for sale. If someone told me the RC doesnt last as long as higher quality kits, itd probably sway my decision. But as long as the quality of the kit only affects ride quality, i dont have a problem with it.

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I don't remember where I heard it (it was probably here though) but either the front or rear adjustable can rub the diff so the bracket should be used (but welded). I can't remember front or back but it was one of them.
Thanks for the heads up man, ill do a search
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Old 10-22-2011, 11:56 PM   #25
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Anyone have experience with the tattons (spelling?) sye and driveshaft thats on sale in the vendors spotlight section? now thats a deal!
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Old 10-23-2011, 03:05 AM   #26
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Briangr, the 2 links you provided are 2 different styles of lift kit. The first 4" kit that you linked to only replaces the lower control arms with tubular arms, it uses clevite bushings (which are basically the same as the stock bushings) and it uses a transfer case drop bracket to control the driveline angles.

The second kit you posted is the 6" lift, but it's completely different from the first kit, it uses flex joints on one end of the arm, that are basically a clone of the Currie JJ with a few changes... it also has a replacement front trackbar, and sway bar disconnects, and you would be able to adjust your pinion angles with that kit, how ever you wouldn't be able to run it as is because you would still need a way to control driveline vibrations, so you'd need a SYE, and CV driveshaft.

Here's a link to the set up a good friend of mine runs: Jeep TJ Wrangler Suspension Lift It's also made by RC. It's the better 4" option IMO if you're going to go with RC. My buddy loves his set up and he recently wheeled Moab with it with no complaints. It's basically the 4" version of the 6" kit you first linked to, so keep in mind that you would still need a cv driveshaft and a SYE to use it without a TC drop/MML...
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Old 10-23-2011, 09:03 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by necromancer_tat View Post
Briangr, the 2 links you provided are 2 different styles of lift kit. The first 4" kit that you linked to only replaces the lower control arms with tubular arms, it uses clevite bushings (which are basically the same as the stock bushings) and it uses a transfer case drop bracket to control the driveline angles.

The second kit you posted is the 6" lift, but it's completely different from the first kit, it uses flex joints on one end of the arm, that are basically a clone of the Currie JJ with a few changes... it also has a replacement front trackbar, and sway bar disconnects, and you would be able to adjust your pinion angles with that kit, how ever you wouldn't be able to run it as is because you would still need a way to control driveline vibrations, so you'd need a SYE, and CV driveshaft.

Here's a link to the set up a good friend of mine runs: Jeep TJ Wrangler Suspension Lift It's also made by RC. It's the better 4" option IMO if you're going to go with RC. My buddy loves his set up and he recently wheeled Moab with it with no complaints. It's basically the 4" version of the 6" kit you first linked to, so keep in mind that you would still need a cv driveshaft and a SYE to use it without a TC drop/MML...
Right, I was gunna ditch the t case drop from the kit, and go with the sye and cv driveshaft. But your saying the kit i linked to wouldnt let me adjust my pinion angle? Id have to go with the one you linked to do that?
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Old 10-23-2011, 09:21 AM   #28
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33's are small and don't require that much height. Stick with 2-3" coils, correct-length shocks, proper bump stops and good quality components. Maximize clearance at the belly and gas tank and do it right.

Currie track bars and arms
Currie steering
Currie AR
JB Conv. SYE
Double cardan shaft from any good shop (preferably Spicer parts)
Flat belly
Savvy gas tank skid and armor

That's a good start.
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Old 10-23-2011, 11:01 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Briangr View Post
Right, I was gunna ditch the t case drop from the kit, and go with the sye and cv driveshaft. But your saying the kit i linked to wouldnt let me adjust my pinion angle? Id have to go with the one you linked to do that?
Correct. If you look at the links in the first kit you posted they are basically bent tubing with factory style bushings on both ends, there isn't any way to adjust them so you'd be stuck running whatever the manufacturer felt was the best angle.

If you're looking for the best possible bolt on option for 4" of lift, then what Imped posted is the way to go. I would add the Currie Johnny Joint axle housing kit to his list of parts though, but that's just because I don't believe in mixing and matching bushings.
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Old 10-23-2011, 11:15 AM   #30
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2-3 inch coils are not gona give enough room to allow full flex, and while if they are properly bump stopped, it's still wasting potential. The only way to run that and work would be to add in hiline or metal cloak or some other variety of fender to allow the tires more room to flex. I still completely tuck my 33s up front with 5 inches of lift.

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