4" RC N2.0 suspension kit installed! - Jeep Wrangler Forum
Jeep Wrangler Forum

Go Back   Jeep Wrangler Forum > TJ Jeep Wrangler Forum > TJ General Discussion Forum

Join Wrangler Forum Today


Reply
 
Thread Tools

Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about them on WranglerForum.com
Old 09-09-2011, 11:35 AM   #1
Newb
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 2
4" RC N2.0 suspension kit installed!

Alright, so I'm a little late on posting this but better late than never right? I purchased the 4" N2.0 suspension lift kit from Rough Country a few weeks ago and immediately began the installation the day it was dropped off at my door. Now, I'm not the most mechanically inclined guy out there and I am certainly no expert when it comes to Wranglers. If I had to rate my proficiency in the automotive department I would probably get about a 4.5.. and that's being generous! With that being said, I completely installed the whole kit on my own in a matter of 2 days with little to no complications. I definitely enjoyed being able to go into this project, not knowing a thing about lift kit installations, and coming out somewhat victorious in the end. Btw, I am installing this kit on a 2006 Wrangler Sport with a manual transmission with absolutely no mods ever done to it.

Ok, down to business now. The purpose of this post is to give you guys a little insight on the process I went through installing this kit and to hopefully get some feed back on what I should look out for now or in the near future. The tools I used included: 3 ton jack stands(x2), 2 ton jack stand(x2), an extensive set of socket wrenches, an adjustable wrench, coil spring compressors(x2), ball point hex key allen wrench(for the bolt on the track bars), a BFH, and a case of Yuengling.

After I went over everything to make sure the packages included all the parts I went ahead and jacked the front end up since it seemed like it would be the easiest place to start.

*Notice: I did not fully tighten the lower control arms, the sway bar links or the trackbars until the Jeep was lowered to the ground on all 4 tires.[/U][/U]

-I placed the stands underneath the frame just behind the front lower control arms.
-Removed both front tires
-Disconnected front sway bar on the passenger side but remained connected on the driver side
-Supported the front axle with 2 ton jack stands and removed the shocks, sway bar links and lower control arms
-Lowered the front axle as much as possible and removed the springs with the aid of 2 coil/spring compressors
-Installed, but didn’t completely tighten, all the hardware that came with the kit: lower control arms, sway bar links, springs and shocks (All on the front end)
-I put the front tires back on and lowered the vehicle
-(Relocated the hole where the trackbar sits on the driver side) When all four tires were grounded I lined the end of the trackbar that I disconnected with the bracket it mounts to, made a mark on the bracket where I needed to drill a new hole, drilled a nearly perfectly aligned hole through the front and back side of the trackbar bracket then connected it back to it’s new spot

* The instructions tell you to drill the hole, for the trackbar relocation, a certain length away from the original mount spot but instead I followed the step that I explained above. It definitely helped mitigate the time and frustration it would have taken me if I had drilled the new hole too far over.

-I raised the back end of the jeep and suspended it with 3 ton jacks on the frame behind the rear lower control arms
-I followed the same exact process with the back as I did the front; removed the springs, shocks, sway bar links and control arms, installed the new RC N2.0 hardware and relocated the trackbar mount location with the new bracket supplied with the lift kit
-I lowered the jeep with all 4 tires on the ground, tightened the bolts on the parts that were replaced and checked over everything to make sure all the parts were secure
-After the front and rear suspension had been fully assembled I moved on to the transfer case(I did not lift the jeep on stands for this portion)
-I removed the carpeting from the driver side where the e-brake is located and removed the bolts that hold the torque shaft bracket
-I dropped the bracket from the body and installed the RC torque shaft extension bracket
-I removed the bolts from the skid plate and installed the spacer, that came with the kit, between the frame rail and the skidplate
-After I installed the spacer on the driver side I moved over to the passenger side and installed the spacer exactly like I did on the driver side
-Lastly, I attached the torque shaft lever back in and mounted the bracket back to the body, tightened the bolts(driver side bellow e-brake) and tucked the carpeting back where it belongs.

…and after 2 days, about 16 hours, of working on it off and on it’s FINALLY FINISHED!

Like I said before, I had absolutely no major complications with installing this kit. Thankfully I did not have to use a ton of PB blaster since the previous owner took excellent care of the vehicle and rarely took the jeep offroading or mudding. I would, however, highly advise that you get a hold of some PB blaster, it helps out a significant amount when removing the trackbar bolts!

Immediately after I finished installing everything I took her out for a spin.. Turned out to be one of the scariest rides I had ever taken! After getting to about 35mph I felt a strong wobble in the front end, it wasn’t quite death wobble yet. As I increased speed the wobble became worse until I hit a pothole, I think we all know what happened after that.. The front end wobbled uncontrollably from side to side, obviously I had just been diagnosed with the infamous “death wobble”. Now a lot of people THINK they have “DW” but in reality have nothing of the sort. The difference between DW and a regular wobble is whether or not you’ve shit yourself by the time you come to a complete stop! All joking aside, it was actually a pretty terrifying experience. Imagine being in an earthquake that was full of strong and very rapid tremors, now imagine being in that same earthquake in your vehicle moving at 55mph. Your vision becomes blurred due to the amount of rapid shaking and all you can think about is keeping your as cheeks tightened enough that you won’t soil yourself.

I wasn’t too worried about the DW since I was on my way to get the suspension aligned and the tires balanced anyways. I brought it to Firestone since I have the lifetime alignment there and had it out within a couple of hours. I took her for a spin and VOILA, the DW was gone! I had DW prior to installing the kit which is one of the reasons I decided to purchase the kit in the first place. I couldn’t figure out exactly what was causing it, but now I’m pretty certain, although not 100% positive, the origin of the problem was caused by one of the parts replaced during the installation.

My current problems..

Some other problems I am having deal with the transfer case drop… I think. When I reach 4th gear and hit about 2200 RPMs I can hear/feel a slight vibration in the drivetrain. This vibration remains throughout 5th and 6th gear as well and tends to become a little more intense as I accelerate. I would rate the intensity of the vibrations at around a 2 out of 10 so it’s not THAT big of a deal but obviously still needs to be dealt with.
I am also having problems with putting the jeep in reverse. I’m also skeptical that the transfer case drop has something to do with this. When I put it in reverse I have to apply a small amount of pressure to the gear stick(since it won’t stay in place on it’s own) and slowly let off of the clutch until the gear pops into place, at this point I no longer have to hold the gear stick in reverse. This problem is a religious occurrence that doesn’t seem to get any better or any worse.

-If anyone knows how I can take care of either of the above problems or have any advice please do not hesitate to respond to this post. Any help I can get, whether it be a professional or “newbie” opinion, will be greatly appreciated and will not go unnoticed.

All in all I really enjoy the kit and for the price of it I would say it was a pretty good deal. It may not ride like a Cadillac but it drives a lot smoother than it did with the stock suspension. I haven’t taken it climbing yet so I can’t really say how well it works off-road but I have taken it mudding a few times and it handles GREAT!

I’ve thrown in a pic of how it looks now and all the components that came with a kit.. There’s also a link to the RC website with a video pretty much walking you through how to install this exact kit on a TJ.

Link to RC installation video:
Jeep TJ N2-Series Suspension Lift
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	JeepAfterLift.jpg
Views:	180
Size:	222.8 KB
ID:	67189  
Attached Images
 

RedTJ86 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 09-09-2011, 01:36 PM   #2
"Seamed Like a Good Idea

WF Supporting Member
 
TJWenatchee's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Near Wenatchee, WA
Posts: 1,200
Images: 29
Did you look from underneath on how much clearence you have between the shift lever and the floor when it's in reverse? I have a 2.5" lift and mine ALMOST hits the back end of the shifter hole in the floor. I have seen many just take a saw or grinding wheel and shape until all gear positions clear. Just my thought on the reverse issue.

Jeeps looks very nice! Well done job!!!!!

__________________
See my TJ Build Page on Facebook
TJWenatchee is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 09-09-2011, 01:51 PM   #3
Jeeper
 
SinfulDragon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Indiana
Posts: 981
Looks good.
you put in bump stop extensions?
SinfulDragon is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 09-09-2011, 02:16 PM   #4
Supporting Member

WF Supporting Member
 
HarryJeepGuy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 3,109
You need a SYE kit and a CV style driveshaft. With it you can get rid of the T-case drop and pos bracket adjustment. Both problems solved. Are your rear control arms adjustable? They'll need to be, at least the uppers to change your pinion angle.
HarryJeepGuy is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 09-12-2011, 01:34 AM   #5
Jeeper
 
Stanton Tucker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Chache Valley Utah
Posts: 355
Images: 1
Quote:
Originally Posted by HarryJeepGuy
You need a SYE kit and a CV style driveshaft. With it you can get rid of the T-case drop and pos bracket adjustment. Both problems solved. Are your rear control arms adjustable? They'll need to be, at least the uppers to change your pinion angle.
What does SYE and CV stand for? Sry I'm a newb and learning
Stanton Tucker is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 09-12-2011, 04:10 AM   #6
Jeeper
 
icp1327's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 71
SYE=Slip Yoke Eliminator
CV=Constant Velocity

Because of the things you have dropped and the brackets you lose clearance. I have a 3" BDS lift with the T-Case drop....it is one of my last upgrades (that is a SYE/CV upgrade).

I sent you a PM...
icp1327 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 09-12-2011, 05:37 AM   #7
Newb
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Nor Cal
Posts: 10
I got rid of my DW after installing front and rear adjustable track bars
BlueMoon is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 09-14-2011, 02:52 PM   #8
Jeeper
 
noctrnl's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Long Island
Posts: 304
just did this lift in my 06 wrangler sport automatic. im getting rid of the TC drop to much vibration. Going with a sye and new driveshaft and upper adjustable control arms. sucks because Rough Country lied to me on the phone saying i dont need any of that lol
noctrnl is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 09-14-2011, 02:56 PM   #9
Jeeper
 
rockhard98's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: western oregon
Posts: 792
Quote:
Originally Posted by noctrnl
just did this lift in my 06 wrangler sport automatic. im getting rid of the TC drop to much vibration. Going with a sye and new driveshaft and upper adjustable control arms. sucks because Rough Country lied to me on the phone saying i dont need any of that lol
Will ride like a caddy when done to.... Well a jeep caddy anyway lol.... Difference will be night and day.. Smart decision
__________________
:Theory of a dog:
If you can't eat it or screw It, piss on it and walk away!

!Just Empty Every Pocket!
"J-E-E-P"
rockhard98 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 09-14-2011, 03:11 PM   #10
Jeeper

WF Supporting Member
 
O_M_Jeep's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: South Central Wyoming
Posts: 1,132
I dont use the TC drop on my 3.25" lift, but before I go up to the 4" non-progressive springs from RC I will install a SYE, you can get good Advanced Adapters SYE with a custom long travel CV shaft on e-bay for $410, that will solve your vibration issues, be aware though you'll want to get adjustable upper control arms when you do the SYE to keep the pinion angle properly aligned. as for the shifting, what I would try is the RC 1.25" body lift and the 1" motor mount lift and take the drop bracket they sent you out (this works best without the TC drop installed). I'm a huge fan of RC, and they make some excellent products, any questions you have they are extremely freindly and knowledgable and will take all the time you need to help you get the most out of their lift.

Good catch on the trac-bar relocation, I wish they would change that part of the install instructions.
O_M_Jeep is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 09-14-2011, 08:26 PM   #11
Jeeper
 
noctrnl's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Long Island
Posts: 304
Quote:
Originally Posted by rockhard98 View Post
Will ride like a caddy when done to.... Well a jeep caddy anyway lol.... Difference will be night and day.. Smart decision

lol jeep caddy, thats great!
noctrnl is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 09-14-2011, 08:50 PM   #12
Custom JEEP Decals
 
TJe0454's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: MD
Posts: 1,480
adjustable upper CAs is what u need to set the pinion angle.
__________________
I brake for humans.
Maryland Flag JEEP Stickers!!

My 3/4 link build
TJe0454 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 09-16-2011, 06:56 PM   #13
Newb
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 2
Thanks for the input guys! I would have responded sooner but I have had some major issues with my internet connection lately…

@TJWenatchee – I went ahead and had a mechanic at a local Jeep garage go ahead and do what you advised… worked like a charm, Thanks!

@SinfulDragon – I haven’t installed the rear bump stops on it yet but I did purchase a set through RC. I’m going to throw them on before I head up to Uwharrie!

@HarryJeepGuy – I’m definitely going to have to end up getting an SYE kit and CV shaft. There’s a mechanic at a Jeep shop up the road that says he can get me a great deal on an SYE kit and CV shaft combo for less than $500. Not sure what brand they are but he vouches for them. No matter what set up I end up getting I’ll be sure to post the results on here for everyone.. If anyone has any suggestions for an affordable SYE kit or CV Shaft post it up!

@BlueMoon – I’ve been looking into getting an adjustable front and rear trackbar as well. RC has a couple of nice one’s but I think I’m going to have to research it a bit more before I commit to something.

@noctrnl – They told me the same thing.. Apparently the LJ’s not only can do without getting an SYE kit or shaft, but they don’t even need to drop their transfer cases(don’t quote me on that though, just “hearsay”). Let me know how it goes after you’re all done. How do you like the kit so far? Any issues with it other than the TC related stuff?

@O_M_Jeep – I’m going to look into that SYE/CV shaft set up you’re talking about later on. Would I need to take the bracket I installed for the TC drop off if I remove the spacers and put the skid plate back into it’s original position? I agree, they should definitely change the “trackbar” section of the instructions, it would end up being a headache trying to re-install it if you were off by even a 1/8 of an inch when you make the relocation hole. However, had I been a little more knowledgeable on that specific area I would have definitely purchased an adjustable rear and front trackbar instead of relocating them… That will more than likely be my next project.
RedTJ86 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 09-16-2011, 07:13 PM   #14
Jeeper
 
Jeepoffroad04's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Cocoa, Florida
Posts: 3,261
Images: 19
Looks good
__________________
-33x12.50 Trxus MTs on 15" American Outlaws
-4" Skyjacker lift kit
-Rampage bowless soft top, 1.25" JKS BL
-Smittybilt xrc8 winch, xrc stinger, and step rail
-Detriot lockers front and rear
-ARB safari snorkel & more
Jeepoffroad04 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 09-16-2011, 09:43 PM   #15
Jeeper

WF Supporting Member
 
O_M_Jeep's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: South Central Wyoming
Posts: 1,132
If you put the skid plate back to the frame then yes, the linkage bracket would be taken out, you could also eliminate the transfer case drop and bracket by doing the 1.25" body lift and 1" motor mount lift, that gives your driveline a better angle to the rear axle, if you decide to go that route, be sure to remove the tc drop last, checking the angles as you go.
__________________
There are a million ways to build a Jeep, pick one and do it - you bought a canvas, not a painting!

Click here to support Wranglerforum
Or else the teddy bear gets it
O_M_Jeep is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 09-17-2011, 01:37 AM   #16
Jeeper

WF Supporting Member
 
Mortalis5509's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Winder, GA
Posts: 1,728
Send a message via AIM to Mortalis5509
Not in the mood to read everything but make sure whoever does the front bumpstops that they are done right. Meaning take the coils out and rubber bump in the cup for the bump stops. Push the axle all the up until the bumpstop cup and that flat perch on the axle where the coil go at together. Make sure all of your steering componets are not hitting each other.

Check the rear bumpstops because you can easily bottom out going down the road which is bad on your shocks.
__________________
Go DAWGS!!

YOU ONLY NEED TWO TOOLS IN LIFE - WD-40 AND DUCT TAPE. IF IT DOESN'T MOVE AND SHOULD, USE THE WD-40. IF IT SHOULDN'T MOVE AND DOES, USE THE DUCT TAPE.

IF YOU CAN'T FIX IT WITH A HAMMER, YOU'VE GOT AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM.
Mortalis5509 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 09-17-2011, 07:35 PM   #17
Jeeper
 
noctrnl's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Long Island
Posts: 304
Quote:
Originally Posted by RedTJ86 View Post
Thanks for the input guys! I would have responded sooner but I have had some major issues with my internet connection lately…

@noctrnl – They told me the same thing.. Apparently the LJ’s not only can do without getting an SYE kit or shaft, but they don’t even need to drop their transfer cases(don’t quote me on that though, just “hearsay”). Let me know how it goes after you’re all done. How do you like the kit so far? Any issues with it other than the TC related stuff?

I do like the ride quality of the kit and how it handles.I didn't take it off road yet except for making my own exit ramp off a park way lol, I did some modification to my skid plate for the automatic transmission because the front drive shaft would hit it. RC said remove the skid plate lol which leave my transmission pan unprotected so I modified it to work, no way am I removing it. The vibration in the drive shaft has not stopped yet and the springs have defiantly settled by now, so I ordered the upper adjustable control arms for the rear to set my pinion angle which should cure the drive line vibration. If not then i will go the full root and put in the sye i have and order a custom drive shaft, which still will require the adjustable arms anyways.
noctrnl is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 10-25-2011, 03:38 PM   #18
Jeeper
 
noctrnl's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Long Island
Posts: 304
i take back what i said, once the kit broke in and the springs settled it was garbage. i was bouncing all over the road. shocks started to make noise, The kit came out and was sent back to rough country.
noctrnl is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 10-25-2011, 10:49 PM   #19
Jeeper
 
TJ-JAM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 103
Wow Noc.... I have the same lift I'm in shock with your results.....but good to know I'll be on the look out to see how my turns out. Question when you sent it back they refunded your money no questions asked or they gave you a hard time. Also what lift did you go with now......? I'd be really pissed if after I had to do all that hard work to put it on ... To have to take it off... You must have been on fire
TJ-JAM is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 10-26-2011, 07:44 AM   #20
Jeeper
 
tailhole's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: oxford. ms.
Posts: 938
Quote:
Originally Posted by noctrnl View Post
i take back what i said, once the kit broke in and the springs settled it was garbage. i was bouncing all over the road. shocks started to make noise, The kit came out and was sent back to rough country.
You say you sent it back? Did you get your money back?
tailhole is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 10-26-2011, 08:00 AM   #21
Jeeper
 
elephantrider's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: round rock
Posts: 166
Quote:
Originally Posted by noctrnl View Post
just did this lift in my 06 wrangler sport automatic. im getting rid of the TC drop to much vibration. Going with a sye and new driveshaft and upper adjustable control arms. sucks because Rough Country lied to me on the phone saying i dont need any of that lol
as long as you run the tc drop, you dont need anything else, so
rc didnt lie. they've been around for a long time and know whats
needed with what.
__________________
jason
2009 g8 gt
2005 lj trail rig
1992 club cab le
elephantrider is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 10-26-2011, 07:58 PM   #22
Jeeper
 
Phaeton's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Bend Or
Posts: 62
You guys are killing me I just bought this lift and plan on installing it this weekend. If it's total crap then I will send it back. All I want is a 4" lift with an ok ride and no issues (Death wobble, Driveline vibration)
Phaeton is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 10-26-2011, 08:26 PM   #23
Jeeper
 
2003x's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Boston, MA
Posts: 973
Quote:
Originally Posted by elephantrider View Post
as long as you run the tc drop, you dont need anything else, so
rc didnt lie. they've been around for a long time and know whats
needed with what.
I run the 4" Series II kit with the 1.5" T-Case drop and never had any issues, except some minor vibes at certain mph, did this for about 4 years.. When I finally had the money, I removed it and added the sye/ds.
This kit is just fine for a DD, weekend wheeler, person on a budget, I still run it but added their long arms to it.
__________________
HP D30, Ford 8.8, 4.88s, 4" RC Long Arm, 1" BL, 35" Toyo MT's.
My Build
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/2...-build-944608/
2003x is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 10-26-2011, 10:45 PM   #24
Jeeper
 
TJ-JAM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 103
Like they say each Jeep is different I installed mines got vibrations had to order an SYE and Tattons drive shaft, and upper control arms (rear) and rear track bar. If I had to do it again I'd go with their X-series because little by little I'm finding myself upgrading their basic to the X series.
TJ-JAM is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 10-26-2011, 11:13 PM   #25
Jeeper
 
noctrnl's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Long Island
Posts: 304
You have 60 days to get a full refund...
noctrnl is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 10-26-2011, 11:37 PM   #26
Jeeper
 
noctrnl's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Long Island
Posts: 304
i was told 4in is the border line between short arm and long arm. but the more i looked into the RC kit when i had all the problems my springs became stupid soft i could flex them by hand while in the jeep. also the shocks are made by Gabriel which is like a $20 shock at auto zone cheap shit. but i drove my jeep stock suspension from florida to ny and it was perfect. Once i did the rc kit it was great at first then just turned to a nightmare once it settled in. also the kits 2in pucks for the automatic transmission skid plate did not give enough clearance and it bent my front drive shaft when i hit a bump. Rough Country told me they would change the instructions for future buyers and sorry they wont do anything for me since their kit caused damage to my drive shaft. They just kept trying to sell me more of their crap. but i guess you get what you pay for.... I also did an SYE and drive shaft with their kit still in my jeep because the tc drop didn't work out for me.
noctrnl is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 10-27-2011, 12:25 AM   #27
Jeeper
 
zpratt4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Knoxville, TN
Posts: 257
To resolve your reverse issue, move your console back as much as you can without it getting in the way of your e-brake. You will have to drill new holes for the screws. That is what I did when I had that problem and it worked like a charm. Hope that helps.

By the way, congrats on the new lift. It looks great.
__________________
GO VOLS!
zpratt4 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 10-27-2011, 07:49 AM   #28
Jeeper
 
tailhole's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: oxford. ms.
Posts: 938
Quote:
Originally Posted by noctrnl View Post
You have 60 days to get a full refund...
Well dang. Mine is at 6 months. Guess i will be giving someone a great deal on a lift kit
tailhole is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 10-27-2011, 04:42 PM   #29
Jeeper
 
2003x's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Boston, MA
Posts: 973
Quote:
Originally Posted by tailhole View Post
Well dang. Mine is at 6 months. Guess i will be giving someone a great deal on a lift kit
That bad?
__________________
HP D30, Ford 8.8, 4.88s, 4" RC Long Arm, 1" BL, 35" Toyo MT's.
My Build
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/2...-build-944608/
2003x is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 10-27-2011, 09:33 PM   #30
Jeeper
 
tailhole's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: oxford. ms.
Posts: 938
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2003x View Post
That bad?
Well. I have read that every jeep is different. Mine is one that doesn't like RC.

tailhole is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Jeep Wrangler Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Rough Country 4" Suspension Lift? Shocks? 1991 Wrangler YJ Renegade YJ Tech Forum 4 02-17-2011 08:24 AM
BDS 2" or Rough County 2.5" suspension lift Ansx97 TJ General Discussion Forum 6 01-13-2011 06:29 PM
Need suspension advice asap! Jp90Talon TJ Tech Forum 5 05-03-2010 09:08 PM
suspension articulation with 4" lift cru9 TJ Tech Forum 2 04-15-2010 10:24 PM
4" FABTECH Suspension and 1" Body lift Sandman6160 TJ General Discussion Forum 4 03-27-2007 11:42 PM



Download our Mobile App

» Network Links
»Jeep Parts
» Featured Product

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:47 AM.



Jeep®, Wrangler, Liberty, Wagoneer, Cherokee, and Grand Cherokee are copyrighted and trademarked to Chrysler Motors LLC.
Wranglerforum.com is not in any way associated with the Chrysler Motors LLC