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Old 01-22-2014, 10:54 AM   #1
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6 inch lift questions

So I'm thinking about goin with a 6 inch lifter for my pride and joy I was asking the collective what they would run tire wise 33 or 35 I know gear ratio would change what would be an optimum set of gears Running 33s and or 35s it will be the first lift I've had done to mine anybody got any lift picks of that size just talkin it out with my jeep brethren about the situation here's my ride as it sits now riding wrangler authority 31 1050 r15 lt sprayed the wheels and fenders with matte black plasti dip for the price I'm very happy and if I want to go back its easy to do .. Let me hear ya guys show me what you got
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Old 01-22-2014, 11:01 AM   #2
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unless you have many thousand $ ready to spend on lifting your jeep 6" and running 35's the right way, stick to a combo 3" suspension/body lift and run 33's. You still might have to regear, depending on what gears you currently have.

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Old 01-22-2014, 11:36 AM   #3
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Slow down and do some research. You don't have to have a 6" lift to run 35's. In fact, hardly anyone runs a 6" lift and there's a good reason for that. It adds nothing to the jeep that a 4" lift and 1.25" bl can give you and actually can make it less safe on uneven ground. Not to mention, unless you can weld, a 6" lift is not a good idea purely from a suspension geometry perspective.

There's two common way to run 35's:
1) Get a set of high clearance fenders such as Metalcloak's
OR
2) 4" suspension lift and a 1"-1.25" bl.

But since this is your first lift, research for a couple months. Learn about suspension geometry, steering geometry, and driveline angles and how a lift affects all three.
35's are a totally different monster from 33's. 35's often require axle upgrades and definitely require steering upgrades, a regear, brake upgrades, etc. Basically, the bigger the lift and/or the tires, the longer the list gets to run them properly and reliably. If you have any specific questions, I'd be happy to answer them, but just asking what it takes to run 35's is pretty broad.
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Old 01-22-2014, 11:42 AM   #4
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Youll need around 7-8k to run 35's...

you could just do a zone 4.25" kit and run 33's which will cut down on a lot of expense...

as the others said, slow it down and do some research first. Heres a good read about 35's - http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/i-...-my-tj-751873/

Here's mine sitting on 35's...cost me about 7500 bucks to get it to this point.



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Old 01-22-2014, 12:12 PM   #5
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6" is a lot of lift even for 35s I'm barely running 6" of lift with 40s. Plus as mentioned above, 35s on stock axles/brakes is a lot of stress.
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Old 01-22-2014, 12:50 PM   #6
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Here is my rig with 35s and a 6" lift. Keep in mind I purchased it with this setup and would have never bought this rig if it was not selling at a discount compared to stock. As you can see, the 6" lift is excessive for these tires.

If you do not have a healthy budget then stick with 33s and 4" lift maximum. In addition to the $3,000 lift be prepared to pay at least $500 for steering, $2500 for lockers and regear, $600 for upgraded D30 axleshafts, and various other items that will cost you hundreds of dollars.
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Old 01-22-2014, 06:46 PM   #7
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I did. 6" on 35s. I wish I had gone with a 4.5. And you can do 4.5 on 35s without high clearance fenders.

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Old 01-22-2014, 06:49 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carlray View Post
I did. 6" on 35s. I wish I had gone with a 4.5. And you can do 4.5 on 35s without high clearance fenders.
If I hadn't found this lift for 1600 I would never had spent what it cost new. And I did the work myself I couldn't a fine what it would have cot to have it done.
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Old 01-22-2014, 08:45 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Owen_TJ View Post
Youll need around 7-8k to run 35's...

you could just do a zone 4.25" kit and run 33's which will cut down on a lot of expense...

as the others said, slow it down and do some research first. Heres a good read about 35's - http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/i-...-my-tj-751873/

Here's mine sitting on 35's...cost me about 7500 bucks to get it to this point.



Where are you getting $7-$8k from? I'm truly asking. Over the past year and a half I have spent about $2k on a 3" sl 1.25bl and a tummy tuck and 33x10.5. Everything I've bought was separate. No lift kits. I haven't regeared yet but I'm planning to.
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Old 01-23-2014, 11:10 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TJspeed View Post
Where are you getting $7-$8k from? I'm truly asking. Over the past year and a half I have spent about $2k on a 3" sl 1.25bl and a tummy tuck and 33x10.5. Everything I've bought was separate. No lift kits. I haven't regeared yet but I'm planning to.
Very simple you will have to regear both axles which should be in the $1000-$1200 ranger while your in there might as well install lockers so u don't pay to do it twice..add in the price of Chromolly axles, brakes the price of the tires themselves, heavier steering setup..and that assuming you don't have a Dana 35.. in which case u should find a Dana 44 or a Ford 8.8..I'm sure there a few more things but u get the point I'm sure
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Old 01-23-2014, 01:07 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by BadApple View Post
Very simple you will have to regear both axles which should be in the $1000-$1200 ranger while your in there might as well install lockers so u don't pay to do it twice..add in the price of Chromolly axles, brakes the price of the tires themselves, heavier steering setup..and that assuming you don't have a Dana 35.. in which case u should find a Dana 44 or a Ford 8.8..I'm sure there a few more things but u get the point I'm sure
This exactly...

Axles
Gears
Brakes
Steering
Tires themselves
Upper and lower control arms
The lift itself
Front and rear track bars
Extended brake lines
SYE
Driveshaft
etc

I already had my lift, brakes, and fenders when i put my 35's on...right after i did my 35's i got (all at once):

8.8 rear axle
chromoly front shafts
4.88 gears
sye
drive shaft
upper adjustable control arms front and rear
lower fixed arms front and rear
adjustable track bars front and rear
extended brake lines
etc

I still need to do the durango steering box conversion but that wont be too much...

So, yeah...the price goes up fast
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Old 01-23-2014, 07:20 PM   #12
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Out of your list their, the only I haven't bought yet is longer brake lines, axle shafts, gears and brakes. But I did forget about labor. I don't pay for labor so that makes everything cheaper.
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Old 01-23-2014, 07:32 PM   #13
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Out of your list their, the only I haven't bought yet is longer brake lines, axle shafts, gears and brakes. But I did forget about labor. I don't pay for labor so that makes everything cheaper.
Are you running 35's, though?? You definitely notice the jump between 33's and 35's. My steering box is now junk because of them. Black magic brakes are a good choice for brakes if you dont want to spend the cash on a big brake kit.

I'm with ya on the labor...i did most of the labor on mine. The other stuff (my regear, axle shafts, and 8.8 install) was done by someone for a great price so wasnt too bad.

If you're gonna run disconnected then i'd recommend longer brake lines...i got a pair which were for a chevy 1500 or 2500 and were so cheap...were only about 10 bucks a line. I can get a part number for you if you'd like. I didnt have them when i was running my 3" springs but i'm now running 4.5" springs in front which made me do the lines. Great purchase, though.

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