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Old 06-23-2010, 07:40 PM   #1
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75W140 diff oil ?? screwed?

I let the Salvo talk me into the $18 per quart diff fluid by Mobil 1. I put in two bottles now I have to bite for a third one to finish it. Will it hurt the diff not having the differnt weight? Should I drain it?
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Old 06-23-2010, 07:47 PM   #2
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I don't understand...

You have 75-140. One axle is full. The other needs more. You're asking if a different weight can be added to the axle that needs more?

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Old 06-23-2010, 07:59 PM   #3
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Ehh..I'll just answer it.

You can mix different viscosities in a differential. The axles aren't picky.

You can also run one weight in the front, and a different weight in the back.

I don't know which you're talking about, but either way...you worry too much
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Old 06-23-2010, 08:05 PM   #4
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Sorry about the bad wording. i only did the rear and I was worried that the 75W140 weight would not be sufficient to protect the differential properly. If it is Ok I may add a little cheap stuff to top it off. I will never shop for parts again without coming here first.
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Old 06-23-2010, 08:05 PM   #5
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Yep, mixing viscosities in axles and engines is not a problem at all. Even synthetics and mineral based lubricants can be mixed.
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Old 06-23-2010, 08:34 PM   #6
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You'll be fine.

To be honest, all the different gear oils are roughly the same. It's like a 5-30 or 10-40 engine oil. Thing is, gear oil isn't measured the same.

So feel free to mix and match next time you do the axles. Auto zone only carries maybe 3 qts of maybe 75-90, for the other qt I'll grab maybe 90-120. Axles aren't picky like a transmission or anything.

You did ok. No worries.
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Old 06-23-2010, 09:51 PM   #7
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80W-90 for regular use, 75W-140 synthetic for heavy duty use, per Owner Manual:
Quote:
Axle Differential (front-rear) Mopar Hypoid Gear Lubricant (SAE 80W-90) (API GL5) or equivalent. For trailer towing, use a SAE 75W-140 Synthetic Gear Lubricant. Models equipped with Trac-Lok require an additive.
Just put Quaker State 75W-140 full synthetic GL-5 in my front differential. Plan to do the same for the rear. 80W-90 would have worked fine but since I am doing the work myself, I went for the upgrade. Mixing and matching is not a problem to be concerned about.
When shopping for the differential fluid, I noticed a container fuller than those beside it. Checked and sure enough, the seal was broken. Must have been a return and who knows what was actually in the container, could have been 10W-30, 20W-50, or whatever. Pays to pay attention when buying oil and oil filters due to occasional switching that goes on.
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Old 07-19-2010, 09:30 PM   #8
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Hi I been reading about this 75w140 syn stuff for days now. cause i want to swap my oil out in my diffs as well and they call for this crazy costly stuff. the cheapest deal i can find is 90 bucks to change both diffs. First place i checked was walmart but they dont sell it here but they do sell 85w140 non syn. Also the temperature here in the north pole canada goes down to to -40 so im thinking the thick oils are going to be like tar here in winter. I am also someone who likes to go mudding and swap the oil out after the weekend is over. At 90 bucks a pop who can afford that. so what should i do use syn 75w90, 80w90, 85w140 or the 20$ per qt 75w140 syn stuff (quaker state is the cheapest i could find). I own a 03 rubicon. And the friction additive for the rear diff 50% say i need it and the other say i dont im so confused. anyways i just dont want to waste money if i dont have to. Oh and i dont tow anything and i live 5 mins from work. Will my lockers work with all these oils. anyways any help will be great. I probley put 3500 miles on a year just trails work and fart around town.
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Old 07-19-2010, 09:39 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by FREDO 4X4 View Post
Hi I been reading about this 75w140 syn stuff for days now. cause i want to swap my oil out in my diffs as well and they call for this crazy costly stuff. the cheapest deal i can find is 90 bucks to change both diffs. First place i checked was walmart but they dont sell it here but they do sell 85w140 non syn. Also the temperature here in the north pole canada goes down to to -40 so im thinking the thick oils are going to be like tar here in winter. I am also someone who likes to go mudding and swap the oil out after the weekend is over. At 90 bucks a pop who can afford that. so what should i do use syn 75w90, 80w90, 85w140 or the 20$ per qt 75w140 syn stuff (quaker state is the cheapest i could find). I own a 03 rubicon. And the friction additive for the rear diff 50% say i need it and the other say i dont im so confused. anyways i just dont want to waste money if i dont have to. Oh and i dont tow anything and i live 5 mins from work. Will my lockers work with all these oils. anyways any help will be great. I probley put 3500 miles on a year just trails work and fart around town.
For your purposes I would just stick with 80w90, but you need the friction modifier in the rear if it has the limited slip differential. I run 80w90 all year including in the winter when it 's -40 celsius. And yes all those oils will work in your diff.
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Old 07-19-2010, 10:18 PM   #10
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An additive is not needed. The additive is used for clutch pack differentials to stop chatter - the Rubicon uses a torsen differential gear set in the rear. The additive won't hurt, but it won't help either.

Ok sounds great thats what im going to do 80w90 and change it like 2 or 3 times a year that will still be very cheap cause i can get that free at work. and for the additive im really unsure cause i read this quote up top in like 4 or 5 different places now. Sounds like the trac-lock system in jeeps has clutch packs but tru-lock LSD has this trosen LSD thing which im not sure what it does. In all my searching i never found anything bad happen from putting the wrong oil in. I heard of LSD chatter from using lighter oil but not in the rubicon maybe cause of the torsen deal. I need to do some more studying up on that one thou.
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Old 07-19-2010, 10:20 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by FREDO 4X4 View Post
Hi I been reading about this 75w140 syn stuff for days now. cause i want to swap my oil out in my diffs as well and they call for this crazy costly stuff. the cheapest deal i can find is 90 bucks to change both diffs. First place i checked was walmart but they dont sell it here but they do sell 85w140 non syn. Also the temperature here in the north pole canada goes down to to -40 so im thinking the thick oils are going to be like tar here in winter. I am also someone who likes to go mudding and swap the oil out after the weekend is over. At 90 bucks a pop who can afford that. so what should i do use syn 75w90, 80w90, 85w140 or the 20$ per qt 75w140 syn stuff (quaker state is the cheapest i could find). I own a 03 rubicon. And the friction additive for the rear diff 50% say i need it and the other say i dont im so confused. anyways i just dont want to waste money if i dont have to. Oh and i dont tow anything and i live 5 mins from work. Will my lockers work with all these oils. anyways any help will be great. I probley put 3500 miles on a year just trails work and fart around town.
75W-140 is recommended in order to run thicker under a load that heats up the differentials (like trailer towing). Normally, on a cold winter day, it will likely stay nearer 75 viscosity grade, which is a little lighter than 85, for normal driving. Synthetics tend to have better flowability for the same viscosity grade, than conventional fluids, that's good for winter driving. Some info here on the Quaker State.
Here's what Mobil says about their 75W-140.

The extra cost? In my case, I expect the 75W-140 to run forever without a change.
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Old 07-20-2010, 06:17 AM   #12
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Well i can get 75w90 syn for alot cheaper should i use that than.
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Old 07-20-2010, 06:32 AM   #13
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You will find all the info you will EVER need about oil here: Welcome
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Old 07-20-2010, 08:36 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by FREDO 4X4 View Post
and for the additive im really unsure cause i read this quote up top in like 4 or 5 different places now. Sounds like the trac-lock system in jeeps has clutch packs but tru-lock LSD has this trosen LSD thing which im not sure what it does.
I thought the Rubi's had air lockers, not LSD's.
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Old 07-20-2010, 09:43 AM   #15
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I thought the Rubi's had air lockers, not LSD's.
They do have air lockers but the rear axle also has a gear driven LSD that operates when the locker is not engaged.
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Old 07-20-2010, 09:46 AM   #16
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Well i can get 75w90 syn for alot cheaper should i use that than.
I would consider that a step up and should be fine. Is the 75W-90 a "full" synthetic or a "blend"?
The fluid change will be less expensive if the fluid is pumped out, rather than the cover removed.
Posts #1 and #17 from this Thread give my experience with changing both front and rear differential fluids, one by removing the cover, the other by using a modified $5.00 bulb pump.
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Old 07-20-2010, 03:39 PM   #17
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I have drain plugs in the bottom of my diffs. I let it go until it stops dripping so shes pretty empty before i refill it. The cheapest one i found is a semi-syn 75w90 i figure its still better than 80w90 and i can swap it out for under 40 bucks for both diffs. But i could do it for under 20 bucks if i go 80w90.
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Old 07-20-2010, 05:13 PM   #18
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Do it cheap if you change it a couple times a year. I change mine every couple months, because I do a lot of river crossings and all off road miles. Usually comes out fine, but one in every four comes out milky with some water in it. Plus as much as I drag it across rocks, it is always self clearancing. Use Right Stuff for the diff covers.

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