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Old 05-03-2012, 10:14 AM   #1
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8.8 rebuild

8.8 explorer rear end, 31 splines, posi, disc brakes, new 4.10 gears. Installed for $500. Do you guys think this is a good deal? Right now I just have the stock Dana in the back and I've heard Dana's are about good for nothing except boat anchors. Let me hear your opinion.

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Old 05-03-2012, 10:24 AM   #2
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If that's the price for the rear and the install that's a steal I would jump all over it does the 8.8 have all the brackets welded on for the tj and no u can build a d35 to handle 35s just depends on what ur gonna spend vs upgrading to a new rear end but for 500 u can't beat it

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Old 05-03-2012, 10:32 AM   #3
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That 500 is for the cost of the axle, the installation of the brackets, and the mounting in the jeep? Thats a pretty good deal. Are your current gears 4.10?

I am assuming you have the D35? Those arent the most reliable with larger tires without proper upgrades. However the D44 is a good axle up to 35s, and they came as a factory option on jeeps.
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Old 05-03-2012, 11:20 AM   #4
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Yes cost includes everything and no I don't have 4.10 gears. I have 3.07
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Old 05-03-2012, 11:23 AM   #5
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And I wanna go 37s if that matters.
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Old 05-03-2012, 11:34 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by BigGreenMachine
And I wanna go 37s if that matters.
Ok so ull have to do one of two things one re gear ur front and make it stronger but for 37s the Dana 30 isn't going to hold up ever upgraded wit hard abuse and locked (maybe open)

two get a new front end like a Dana 60 that can hold up I have 36s on my 8.8 and I'm down grading to 35s for my front ends sake

And also something else to think about it ull have to re gear ur 8.8 for 37s to somethin like 5.13 or higher and ur Dana 30 can go that High anyway so ull need a new front I have 4.88 and I run pretty good on 36s but on 35s I'll have even more power
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Old 05-03-2012, 11:40 AM   #7
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Wow that's a steal at that price

But unfortunately, the Explorer never came with 3.07 gearing. Most you'll find with 3.73 or 4.10 gearing. You're going to need to have your front differential regeared. And since you want to go up to 37s, you want the gearing even lower - around 4.88 to 5.13. The D30 you probably have up front cant only go up to 4.88.
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Old 05-03-2012, 11:46 AM   #8
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I got my 8.8 from a u pull and pay for 125. Came out of a 2000 explorer. It is open diff and 3.73 though. I wouldn't want the posi though, I hear its pretty crappy and a lot of ford guys swap in open diffs or full case lockers. And of course 4.10 isn't going to cut it for 37s. OP you can find a better deal.
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Old 05-03-2012, 11:47 AM   #9
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And I wanna go 37s if that matters.
One more thing what is ur goal and use for ur rig and is ur suspension and steering up to par for 37s
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Old 05-03-2012, 11:48 AM   #10
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Ok so more realalistic I stay at 35. 4.10 can handle that. What would i have to do to the front end then? Just regear it?
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Old 05-03-2012, 11:49 AM   #11
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I got my 8.8 from a u pull and pay for 125. Came out of a 2000 explorer. It is open diff and 3.73 though. I wouldn't want the posi though, I hear its pretty crappy and a lot of ford guys swap in open diffs or full case lockers. And of course 4.10 isn't going to cut it for 37s. OP you can find a better deal.
Find a better deal then 500 installed him doing no work???? Idk about that one mayb if he fabs or has the know how to do it but 500 for I think it's a steal
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Old 05-03-2012, 11:51 AM   #12
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I got my 8.8 from a u pull and pay for 125. Came out of a 2000 explorer. It is open diff and 3.73 though. I wouldn't want the posi though, I hear its pretty crappy and a lot of ford guys swap in open diffs or full case lockers. And of course 4.10 isn't going to cut it for 37s. OP you can find a better deal.
My understanding is that this axle would be bolt in ready...500 for a bolt in 8.8 is a damn good deal (if the OP cant weld). Since he will need to regear anyways, he can drop the open carrier in or a locker.
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Old 05-03-2012, 11:52 AM   #13
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Ok so more realalistic I stay at 35. 4.10 can handle that. What would i have to do to the front end then? Just regear it?
What are u planning to do Rock crawl, trails or occasional off roading it all depends and 4.10 will be a bit of a dog but it can be done if ur can deal wit always being in 4th at highway speeds all ur would have to do to the front is re gear if left open if u want a locker or LSD then chromoly shafts and stronger u joints are recommend
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Old 05-03-2012, 11:57 AM   #14
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It's not bolt on ready but I can't weld and I'm not doing any of the work. I'm having my guy do it an that price includes welds and everything out the door.
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Old 05-03-2012, 11:57 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TjWranglerMan

What are u planning to do Rock crawl, trails or occasional off roading it all depends and 4.10 will be a bit of a dog but it can be done if ur can deal wit always being in 4th at highway speeds all ur would have to do to the front is re gear if left open if u want a locker or LSD then chromoly shafts and stronger u joints are recommend
I plan on rock crawling, trails and mud bogs. Also my daily driver.
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Old 05-03-2012, 12:03 PM   #16
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I missed the 500 "installed", but still, think about it. Brackets only cost 250$ at the min, 100-150$ in labor to weld on brackets, thats 150$ish left over for the axle. Its a run of the mill cost, nothing phenomenal unless you needed 4.10 gears. If you want to run 37s you need more than 4.10.

Also whats the installers definition of bolt in ready? Is he just welding brackets on? What about brake lines? E-brake cables?
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Old 05-03-2012, 01:31 PM   #17
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I missed the 500 "installed", but still, think about it. Brackets only cost 250$ at the min, 100-150$ in labor to weld on brackets, thats 150$ish left over for the axle. Its a run of the mill cost, nothing phenomenal unless you needed 4.10 gears. If you want to run 37s you need more than 4.10.

Also whats the installers definition of bolt in ready? Is he just welding brackets on? What about brake lines? E-brake cables?
Idk if he is welding it on or bolting it or what. He is one of my buddies has his own shop. He is building it for my jeep. Custom welds bolts and everything from scratch. He's putting disc brakes in and hooking up the brake lines and everything. I will not need to do any work. Be said that the axel will last forever.
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Old 05-03-2012, 01:34 PM   #18
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Idk if he is welding it on or bolting it or what. He is one of my buddies has his own shop. He is building it for my jeep. Custom welds bolts and everything from scratch. He's putting disc brakes in and hooking up the brake lines and everything. I will not need to do any work. Be said that the axel will last forever.
You never answered the ??s what are you plainning on doing wit ur rig and what's ur current set up wheel size lift size but like said before 500 for everything Is a complete steal
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Old 05-03-2012, 01:44 PM   #19
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You never answered the ??s what are you plainning on doing wit ur rig and what's ur current set up wheel size lift size but like said before 500 for everything Is a complete steal
I did answer them but I didn't quote sorry, I plan on trail riding, rock crawling and mud bogging. Right now I have 4" suspension and 3" body. 33x12.5x15. I plan on going to 6" suspension and one more in in body in the front to level my h
Jeep because I don't have a soft top, spare tire/tire carrier and it sits higher in the rear and I also plan on going to 35s.
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Old 05-03-2012, 01:45 PM   #20
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It is also daily driver!
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Old 05-03-2012, 01:47 PM   #21
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I meant I dont have a hard top.
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Old 05-03-2012, 02:12 PM   #22
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I did answer them but I didn't quote sorry, I plan on trail riding, rock crawling and mud bogging. Right now I have 4" suspension and 3" body. 33x12.5x15. I plan on going to 6" suspension and one more in in body in the front to level my h
Jeep because I don't have a soft top, spare tire/tire carrier and it sits higher in the rear and I also plan on going to 35s.
Anything more then a 2in body you won't get much use out of it and looks tacky and why do u want a 6in lift wit a 3in body lift that's crazy high thats a total of 9in over kill in my opinion and 35s will look tiny I have a 6in lift and I'm looking to lower it to a 4in a 4in lift and 2in body lift is enough for 35s and get good clearance

And if ur planning on crawling and hard trails then you should upgrade the d30 with chromoly shafts locker and u joints along with the re gear
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Old 05-03-2012, 02:30 PM   #23
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Anything more then a 2in body you won't get much use out of it and looks tacky and why do u want a 6in lift wit a 3in body lift that's crazy high thats a total of 9in over kill in my opinion and 35s will look tiny I have a 6in lift and I'm looking to lower it to a 4in a 4in lift and 2in body lift is enough for 35s and get good clearance

And if ur planning on crawling and hard trails then you should upgrade the d30 with chromoly shafts locker and u joints along with the re gear
Well for right now I have 7" I might go up to 8" instead of 9" it is crazy high but once I get the rear end done I might go up to 37s that's what I want the 6"
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Old 05-03-2012, 02:31 PM   #24
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Right now I have 7" with 33s and I think it looks fine. I can get some pretty good flex withy quick disconnects too!
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Old 05-03-2012, 02:35 PM   #25
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This is mine 6in long arm 2in body 36in tsl and mine is tall
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Old 05-03-2012, 04:08 PM   #26
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$500 regardless is a great deal, but you will still need to factor in regearing your front ($600) and if you're going above 35s, definitely upgrading the front. 4.10 gearing is fine for highway driving and daily cruising with mudding, but you're not going to have the low-end power. Mine is 4.10 gearing, as that's what I had with the OP and haven't regeared, and I'm fine with the east coast trails I'm on, but it's not a crawler.

With 35s, you want 6" lift max. That provides good flex. Don't even think about slapping on a 3 inch. body lift. They look ridiculous. Personally, a 4 inch lift with flat fenders gives a great combination of both.

37s and you're talking a few more necessary modifications.
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Old 05-03-2012, 06:49 PM   #27
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$500 regardless is a great deal, but you will still need to factor in regearing your front ($600) and if you're going above 35s, definitely upgrading the front. 4.10 gearing is fine for highway driving and daily cruising with mudding, but you're not going to have the low-end power. Mine is 4.10 gearing, as that's what I had with the OP and haven't regeared, and I'm fine with the east coast trails I'm on, but it's not a crawler.

With 35s, you want 6" lift max. That provides good flex. Don't even think about slapping on a 3 inch. body lift. They look ridiculous. Personally, a 4 inch lift with flat fenders gives a great combination of both.

37s and you're talking a few more necessary modifications.
I'm gonna go 4.88 and the body lift gives me more tire clearance.
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Old 05-03-2012, 07:14 PM   #28
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I'm gonna go 4.88 and the body lift gives me more tire clearance.
With a 4in lift is and 2in body lift that plenty of lift for 35s but its ur rig do what u want
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Old 05-03-2012, 07:21 PM   #29
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With a 4in lift is and 2in body lift that plenty of lift for 35s but its ur rig do what u want
Well I plan on going bigger tires eventually.
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Old 05-03-2012, 07:27 PM   #30
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You can pick up a HP30 from a Cherokee and it's a direct swap. Cherokee axles are cheaper than Wrangler axles, even though they're basically the same.

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