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Old 07-31-2013, 11:30 AM   #1
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90,000 mile check-up

Hey all...

My 2003 Jeep Wrangler Sport is coming up on 90,000 miles. Aside from a clutch pedal that occasionally squeaks, everything on the ride is pretty good. Regular maintenance, a few repairs (sway bar for Death Wobble, etc.), and I know I need new tires before winter.

Any suggestions of other things I should consider/review/must do?

Appreciate the input!

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Old 08-05-2013, 03:53 PM   #2
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Just bumping up... in case someone has a suggestion.

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Old 08-05-2013, 04:00 PM   #3
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fluid changes if you haven't already been doing so.
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Old 08-06-2013, 12:24 PM   #4
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I am doing a complete cooling system upgrade and change out.. belt, hoses, fan clutch and radiator. I have 89,000 on the clock. New battery and battery cables too.
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Old 08-06-2013, 12:26 PM   #5
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Plugs, cap, rotor, wires...
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Old 08-06-2013, 12:42 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jherrington View Post
fluid changes if you haven't already been doing so.
Been doing that for sure...

Quote:
I am doing a complete cooling system upgrade and change out.. belt, hoses, fan clutch and radiator. I have 89,000 on the clock. New battery and battery cables too.
Hmmmm.... doing that always concerns me. I've always been partial to the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" idea. The system works well, so I'm not sure I need to repair/replace all that.

Thanks for the tips!
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Old 08-06-2013, 01:13 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jiminmanjr View Post

Been doing that for sure...

Hmmmm.... doing that always concerns me. I've always been partial to the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" idea. The system works well, so I'm not sure I need to repair/replace all that.

Thanks for the tips!
I'm also a fan of the if it ain't broke don't fix it.

Changing out correctly working parts can leave you with broken parts in the end.
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Check out my 5.3 swap in progress here!
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Old 08-06-2013, 09:53 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jiminmanjr View Post

Been doing that for sure...

Hmmmm.... doing that always concerns me. I've always been partial to the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" idea. The system works well, so I'm not sure I need to repair/replace all that.

Thanks for the tips!
To each his own.. I'd rather put in some new parts rather than have old parts fail on me while I am miles back in the woods and halfway crawling up some rocky hill.
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Old 08-07-2013, 04:08 AM   #9
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Plugs, cap, rotor, wires...

the o.p.'s TJ is a 2003 which of course does not have a distributor cap or plug wires. but changing the spark plugs is an excellent idea.

at 90K you should change all the driveline fluids (differential, xfer case, trany).

i'd also think about coating the inside of the frame with Eastwoods internal frame coating if you have not done that yet, you will need 2-3 cans for the complete frame.
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Old 08-07-2013, 04:20 AM   #10
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Replace the serpentine belt (keep the old as a spare) and flush the cooling system.
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Old 08-07-2013, 07:00 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jiminmanjr View Post

Been doing that for sure...

Hmmmm.... doing that always concerns me. I've always been partial to the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" idea. The system works well, so I'm not sure I need to repair/replace all that.

Thanks for the tips!
I would agree no need to replace battery if it is still working good
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Old 08-07-2013, 07:01 AM   #12
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BTW, the Eastwood Internal Frame stuff is only $15.99 with free shipping on Ebay and its direct from Eastwood. Best deal I could find, so I ordered 3 since I needed to do it anyway, lol.
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Old 08-07-2013, 07:05 AM   #13
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the o.p.'s TJ is a 2003 which of course does not have a distributor cap or plug wires. but changing the spark plugs is an excellent idea.

at 90K you should change all the driveline fluids (differential, xfer case, trany).

i'd also think about coating the inside of the frame with Eastwoods internal frame coating if you have not done that yet, you will need 2-3 cans for the complete frame.
Completely missed the year. Thanks for the correction
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Old 08-07-2013, 02:20 PM   #14
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I would agree no need to replace battery if it is still working good

For me it would depend entirely on how old the battery was. If it's near the end of it's probable service life, I'd put a new one in. A new battery will be less expensive than a tow from the middle of nowhere and/or other potential costs.
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Old 08-07-2013, 08:25 PM   #15
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For me it would depend entirely on how old the battery was. If it's near the end of it's probable service life, I'd put a new one in. A new battery will be less expensive than a tow from the middle of nowhere and/or other potential costs.
I carry a jump pack. I guess Im just frugal that way.... nope never mind just poor;p lol
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Old 08-08-2013, 07:02 AM   #16
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I'm gonna let you guys in on a secret about batteries. They don't really die. Industry secret. Its why Wal-Mart or Advance Auto gives you $5 back for the core, but a salvage yard will give you up to $12 back for it...they get recycled. As in reused. Cause they aren't really dead unless the case is cracked or a terminal destroyed, but even those can usually be saved.
My brother-in-law has done countless get rich quick schemes and like most, they don't pan out. One of them wasn't a get rich quick scheme, but a personal business called Battery Doctor. Its a niche business, he had connections at a local post office and was able to get a foothold there and got an annual contract. On the side, he'd charge folks $30 to re-condition their batteries, giving them a full 3 year warranty. Not pro-rated, full. Look around your local Craigslist for a Battery Doctor. They can do any battery, regardless how dead or old. Most charge between $30-$50. If you bring them extra old batteries, most will deduct some off your bill as they will usually turn around and sell those.
And its more than just adding new electrolyte. Its a whole conditioning process. I don't buy new batteries anymore. Good luck!

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