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Old 07-27-2011, 06:18 PM   #1
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About to install OME Stabilizer

I'm about to install the OME Stabilizer on my 04 tj. Anything I should know before I get started?

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Old 07-27-2011, 06:23 PM   #2
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I hear the tapered bolt can be a B to get out

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Old 07-27-2011, 06:26 PM   #3
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Yea I heard about that. I'm sure it'll be fun!
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Old 07-27-2011, 06:31 PM   #4
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i just put a new stabilizer on mine..i wish i had known before hand that i would need a pitman arm puller. I used a gear puller for mine and it worked fine.
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Old 07-27-2011, 06:55 PM   #5
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Let us know how it goes! I'd like to do mine myself but me and tapered bolts don't get along...found that out with the sway bar
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Old 07-27-2011, 07:03 PM   #6
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Pitman arm puller. Check!
I probably wont get to it until Friday but I'll let u guys know.
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Old 07-27-2011, 07:13 PM   #7
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Having removed that particular bolt a half-dozen times as well as many more similar tapered bolts, I can assure you that you definitely do not need a Pitman arm puller, crank puller, steering wheel puller, joint popper, pickle fork, or any of that kind of stuff.

Yes that steering stabilizer's mounting bolt is indeed tight but the following technique will pop it out if done correctly. Simply use a big smooth faced hammer, like a small sledgehammer, to whack the drag link on its side next to where the bolt passes through. Don't bang on the stud (bolt) itself and don't bang on the nut that holds the stud, bang on the SIDE of the drag link. That will force the bolt out.

The below photo shows the technique, though it shows doing it to the bolt that holds the tie rod to the steering knuckle. Notice the hammer is NOT hitting the bolt itself, it is hitting what the bolt passes through. Do NOT bang on the bolt or loosened nut as that will simply deform the bolt and make it even tighter and harder to get out. If you can't get it to work, you're simply not doing it right because it will work 100% of the time. Most likely you're not hitting it hard enough. I can get them out with 2-3 healthy whacks which takes seconds.

I don't want to see anyone coming back here telling me that it doesn't work... it works fine. Most experienced mechanics and a whole bunch of us WF'rs use nothing but that method. Only the very weak or lazy won't be able to get it to work, I assure you.

Squirting that bolt with a little Liquid Wrench, Break-Free, or PB-Blaster before starting might help it pop out a little more easily. WD-40 is better than nothing but not nearly as good as the other three.
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Old 07-27-2011, 07:35 PM   #8
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Thanks! I'm not very weak or lazy so sounds good!
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Old 07-28-2011, 09:11 AM   #9
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Use the hammer method as mentioned. It works. A "Barbie Toolbox" hammer is not going to cut it though.

As mentioned, if you bang on the stud itself, it will mushroom (probably after the first hit) and will not fit through the hole once you break it loose. Then you'll have to cut that tip off to pull it out. Just way more work that needed.

Using a pitman arm puller will usually work as well, but can easily mushroom the tip of the stud.
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Old 07-28-2011, 09:52 AM   #10
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Question If the bolt is not damaged why is nessary to replace it?
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Old 07-28-2011, 10:04 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dalehelman View Post
Question If the bolt is not damaged why is nessary to replace it?
It's not a normal separate bolt, it's part of the OE steering stabilizer.
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Old 07-29-2011, 10:34 AM   #12
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Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
It's not a normal separate bolt, it's part of the OE steering stabilizer.

I know it is tappered to fit the drag link. When I replaced my SS it came with a new one. I am just wondering why if the old one is tight and un damaged why replace it.
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Old 07-29-2011, 10:38 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dalehelman View Post
I know it is tappered to fit the drag link. When I replaced my SS it came with a new one. I am just wondering why if the old one is tight and un damaged why replace it.
Once again, it is not a separate bolt... it is part of the OE steering stabilizer... it is a permanently attached bolt that cannot be removed from the OE stabilizer.
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Old 07-29-2011, 12:45 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dalehelman View Post
I know it is tappered to fit the drag link. When I replaced my SS it came with a new one. I am just wondering why if the old one is tight and un damaged why replace it.
The OP is not trying to replace the stock SS stud, he is trying to replace the entire SS. We've just been talking about the best way to 'dislodge' the factory SS stud.
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Old 07-29-2011, 02:13 PM   #15
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The hammer trick really does work, I just replaced mine with the Skyjacker adj track bar/stabilizer combo and used Jerry's hammer trick.

If anyone cares the Skyjacker combo really is nice and i've very pleased with it.
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Old 07-29-2011, 05:56 PM   #16
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Finished putting the OME SS on! Things awesomely huge compared to stock SS! Everything was smooth. Hardest part was the many wacks I had to give it with the sledge hammer. Put the nut back on the tip of the bolt so it wouldn't mushroom when I hit it. Not to bad at all.
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Old 07-29-2011, 06:52 PM   #17
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Deffinately do not hit the stud itself with a hammer, I can attest to the fact that Jerry mentioned that it will mushroom the end and it won't pass through once you have it loose... I know he asked us not to say the bang on the side of whatever doesn't work 100% of the time, but I haven't had the same luck that he has had. Maybe I'm just not holding my tounge right, lol His way DOES work, but I'd venture to guess about 90% of the time mostly, and like he said, if you soak the bolt with PB Blaster or something similar his way will work with 99% of stock factory parts that aren't to rusted or banged up from trail abuse.
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Old 07-29-2011, 09:58 PM   #18
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Yea my SS was stock and haven't taken it on the trails much. All I had was wd40 so I soaked it.... Alot... Hit it everywhere else but the tip of the bolt and it didn't come out. so I screwed the nut on the tip of the bolt (hoping it would stop the bolt from mushrooming) hit it 3 good times and it popped out.
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Old 08-17-2011, 11:01 PM   #19
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I know it is a little late but here is a picture of it installed and a comparison with the stock SS.
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Old 08-18-2011, 02:36 AM   #20
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Still used a pitman arm puller on mine because I already has one. One tap with a 1/2 air impact and it came right off.
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Old 08-18-2011, 10:19 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willjeep4free View Post
I know it is a little late but here is a picture of it installed and a comparison with the stock SS.
Did you notice a difference in performance? What was wrong with the factory one?
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Old 08-18-2011, 10:29 AM   #22
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He most likely did, it looks like the stud is bent on his old one.

And just from personal experience, yes you will notice a difference immediately, as in first time you turn the steering wheel.

On ours, you could spin the steering wheel to the stop with one finger. With the new stab on you had to work the wheel. Made it feel much more firm.

When I got the old stab off, I could stand it on end, and it would collapse under it's own weight. But then I guess after 14+ years it was a little worn.
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Old 08-18-2011, 02:04 PM   #23
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I like reading this kind of info before I even need it. Stored in my memory bank for whenever the time comes for a new stabilizer. Good thread, thanks guys
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Old 08-27-2011, 12:14 PM   #24
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I definitely noticed a difference! Felt much better after I installed it

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