Having removed that particular bolt a half-dozen times as well as many more similar tapered bolts, I can assure you that you definitely do not need a Pitman arm puller, crank puller, steering wheel puller, joint popper, pickle fork, or any of that kind of stuff.
Yes that steering stabilizer's mounting bolt is indeed tight but the following technique will pop it out if done correctly. Simply use a big smooth faced hammer, like a small sledgehammer, to whack the drag link on its side next to where the bolt passes through. Don't bang on the stud (bolt) itself and don't bang on the nut that holds the stud, bang on the SIDE of the drag link. That will force the bolt out.
The below photo shows the technique, though it shows doing it to the bolt that holds the tie rod to the steering knuckle. Notice the hammer is NOT hitting the bolt itself, it is hitting what the bolt passes through. Do NOT bang on the bolt or loosened nut as that will simply deform the bolt and make it even tighter and harder to get out. If you can't get it to work, you're simply not doing it right because it will work 100% of the time. Most likely you're not hitting it hard enough. I can get them out with 2-3 healthy whacks which takes seconds.
I don't want to see anyone coming back here telling me that it doesn't work... it works fine. Most experienced mechanics and a whole bunch of us WF'rs use nothing but that method. Only the very weak or lazy won't be able to get it to work, I assure you.
Squirting that bolt with a little Liquid Wrench, Break-Free, or PB-Blaster before starting might help it pop out a little more easily. WD-40 is better than nothing but not nearly as good as the other three.
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Use the hammer method as mentioned. It works. A "Barbie Toolbox" hammer is not going to cut it though.
As mentioned, if you bang on the stud itself, it will mushroom (probably after the first hit) and will not fit through the hole once you break it loose. Then you'll have to cut that tip off to pull it out. Just way more work that needed.
Using a pitman arm puller will usually work as well, but can easily mushroom the tip of the stud.
Finished putting the OME SS on! Things awesomely huge compared to stock SS! Everything was smooth. Hardest part was the many wacks I had to give it with the sledge hammer. Put the nut back on the tip of the bolt so it wouldn't mushroom when I hit it. Not to bad at all.
Deffinately do not hit the stud itself with a hammer, I can attest to the fact that Jerry mentioned that it will mushroom the end and it won't pass through once you have it loose... I know he asked us not to say the bang on the side of whatever doesn't work 100% of the time, but I haven't had the same luck that he has had. Maybe I'm just not holding my tounge right, lol His way DOES work, but I'd venture to guess about 90% of the time mostly, and like he said, if you soak the bolt with PB Blaster or something similar his way will work with 99% of stock factory parts that aren't to rusted or banged up from trail abuse.
Yea my SS was stock and haven't taken it on the trails much. All I had was wd40 so I soaked it.... Alot... Hit it everywhere else but the tip of the bolt and it didn't come out. so I screwed the nut on the tip of the bolt (hoping it would stop the bolt from mushrooming) hit it 3 good times and it popped out.