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Old 04-30-2011, 08:05 PM   #1
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Advanced Adapter and Tom Woods CV Driveshaft

Hey guys I'm about to pull the trigger on a SYE and CV driveshaft. Does anybody know of any discounts or redemption codes for this kit? This is the best deal I have found on it. I do want the AA and Tom Wood unless someone has a really good arguement for a different brand.

Shipping is only $10 for this kit.

Let me know what you think.

http://www.4x4groupbuy.com/store/adv...t_8}5{6}11{5}7

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Old 04-30-2011, 09:27 PM   #2
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I say go for it! I bought mine for $525 with the XB (no boot) DC shaft and AA SYE. Awesome combo! Almost no vibes with 4" lift and 3" TT (1 inch below the frame rails)

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Old 04-30-2011, 09:35 PM   #3
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Live my tom woods. I have a jb super short though, it requires something like the speedo healer which takes the price up. Think it was around 6 before that
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Old 04-30-2011, 11:01 PM   #4
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Good price. Going to order mine in a few days as well. Might use your link.
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Old 04-30-2011, 11:58 PM   #5
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I thought it was a pretty good price. Just make sure there is plenty to go around ForumKing.
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Old 05-01-2011, 07:35 PM   #6
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Did you call Rusty's? While they have it listed for $480 on their website I called them in the past and gotten deals (free shipping, military discount, etc.) I'm not bashing 4x4groupbuy.com at all; I've bought stuff from them before without any issues but Rusty's customer service is second to none. Rusty himself is usually the one answering the phone and talking to him will insure you get the correct drive shaft length.

Rustys Offroad: A/A SYE & Tom Wood CV Driveshaft
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Old 05-01-2011, 08:01 PM   #7
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If you don't find a discount for Tom Wood (not Woods!), call and tell Tom Wood I sent you from the forum. Tom might give you a discount based on that. Tom normally answers the phone but if he doesn't, ask for Tom specifically because he knows me.
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Old 05-01-2011, 08:07 PM   #8
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I got mine from adams.... Total deal was about $400. Included advance adapters SYE kit and the shaft.

I dunno whats so much better about the Wood shaft.... Nothing wrong with my mine.... looked just the same as the wood shaft. Aint broke it yet either.
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Old 05-01-2011, 08:13 PM   #9
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Any shop can build a good quality driveshaft using the same or similar quality components that Tom Wood does. What has made Tom wood a nearly household name for driveshafts is his outstandng pre and post-sales support. Tom has even called me several months after shipping me a driveshaft (I've had five or six TW driveshafts over two different TJs) to check up on it and to make sure I was happy with it.
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Old 05-01-2011, 08:19 PM   #10
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5 or 6 in 2 jeeps..... Dang Jerry...you must be hard on em!

I didn't need any support for mine. Told em what I had, told em what I was doin...bingo. Perfect set up on the first try. I had more trouble taking off the rear shocks than installing the SYE and Adam's driveshaft.

Oh yeah.... and they sent me a cool Tee shirt too!
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Old 05-01-2011, 08:29 PM   #11
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5 or 6 in 2 jeeps..... Dang Jerry...you must be hard on em!
Most were just configuration/length changes, only a couple were broken when I was still using 1310 u-joints. The last one I had Tom build for me had 1330 in the rear and 1350 joints in the CV, all sealed.
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Old 05-01-2011, 08:50 PM   #12
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I'm glad you guys are having this discussion, I need to do this conversion on my TJ soon and now I have two options to consider. I'm assuming AA is the way to go for the t-case, I was sure that I was going with Tom Wood for the shaft but I'll look into Adams. Maybe Tom would match the price? Maybe I shouldn't bother and buy the cheaper of the two but I'd prefer service after the sale over a free gift...decisions.decisions...
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Old 05-01-2011, 09:02 PM   #13
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I bought mine through 4x4GroupBuy. The Customer service was excellent and the shipping was fast as hell. I've checked out Rusty's before and the shipping is absolutely ridiculous - not to mention I called in and did not receive a discount. Same with Tom Wood - great service, but wouldn't budge on the price.

Make sure that you write in to send the SYE first and then call in for the CV cause you'll need to give the length.
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Old 05-03-2011, 05:31 PM   #14
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Great info guys. I really appreciate the input. I think I'll give these places a call and see what the deal is. Do a little price and service comparison. I'll let you guys know what I end up doing.
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Old 05-11-2011, 07:01 PM   #15
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Well i got a great deal and ended up going with 4x4groupbuy. Also got some other goodies on the way! Can't wait! I had a couple more questions hopefully someone can help me out with. I also have adjustable upper control arms on the way and soon I will be adding a 1" body lift and a ucf ultra high clearance transfer case skid. I am measuring the length for the new cv driveshaft after installing the sye but do I need to factor in the fact that I'll be adding the ucf skid and 1" body lift with the measurement or just go ahead and measure normally?

Lastly they asked me if I would like to upgrade my driveshaft with the following:

"There are a couple upgrades too that are available. Long Travel and Premium. $25 and $40 extra. Let me know if you want to upgrade. If vehicle will be used off road a lot, it is a good idea to at least go up to the Long Travel... Both Upgrades are picture in the Guide I have attached... The S spline is a conventional spline stub that will yield a safe, effective and usable stroke of 3”. The X spline is longer than the S spline. The X spline is cut for the full length of the spline stub. This gives a bit more than twice the contact area between the slip yoke and spline stub and a stroke of 4-1/2". This in and of itself will net more than twice the life on these two components.
With the XB configuration, we will use a heavy rubber boot which is banded down with stainless steel banding to seal all of the contaminates out and keep the grease in. The XC configuration uses the same slip yoke & spline stub but instead of using the rubber boot, we drill and tap the slip yoke for a grease fitting and use a dust cap which has convolutions that follow the spline stub for sealing. We consider the XB configuration to be the longest lasting and best value. "

Should I spring for the upgrades? Any real pros or cons to each option? I am willing to spend the money to get the best set up. I just don't want to order an option that will hinder me in the future. Please let me know what you think!
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Old 05-11-2011, 07:48 PM   #16
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Depending on your lift height, and rear axle type you can decide what, if possible to upgrade. I wasn't able to upgrade to the longer spline because of my setup so it depends on what upgrades your doing.
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Old 05-11-2011, 08:30 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
Most were just configuration/length changes, only a couple were broken when I was still using 1310 u-joints. The last one I had Tom build for me had 1330 in the rear and 1350 joints in the CV, all sealed.
How do you decide if you need a 1310, 1330, or 1350 DC Shaft? Or a mix like you have?
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Old 05-11-2011, 11:29 PM   #18
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I have a dana 44 rear end. Also I guess I should add I have a 4" suspension lift. I know I need to update my profile soon. Also I just installed my jks quicker disconnects which are amazing! A word to those who decided to use their own homemade quick disconnects... spend the money and get real quick disconnects. I just happened to look under my jeep and notice one had completely fallen out. Close call! Don't skimp on your safety!
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Old 05-12-2011, 06:19 AM   #19
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Where is Jerry when you need him!? Haha
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Old 05-12-2011, 01:02 PM   #20
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bumpity for some help
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Old 05-12-2011, 07:20 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TORO View Post
Well i got a great deal and ended up going with 4x4groupbuy. Also got some other goodies on the way! Can't wait! I had a couple more questions hopefully someone can help me out with. I also have adjustable upper control arms on the way and soon I will be adding a 1" body lift and a ucf ultra high clearance transfer case skid. I am measuring the length for the new cv driveshaft after installing the sye but do I need to factor in the fact that I'll be adding the ucf skid and 1" body lift with the measurement or just go ahead and measure normally?

Lastly they asked me if I would like to upgrade my driveshaft with the following:

"There are a couple upgrades too that are available. Long Travel and Premium. $25 and $40 extra. Let me know if you want to upgrade. If vehicle will be used off road a lot, it is a good idea to at least go up to the Long Travel... Both Upgrades are picture in the Guide I have attached... The S spline is a conventional spline stub that will yield a safe, effective and usable stroke of 3”. The X spline is longer than the S spline. The X spline is cut for the full length of the spline stub. This gives a bit more than twice the contact area between the slip yoke and spline stub and a stroke of 4-1/2". This in and of itself will net more than twice the life on these two components.
With the XB configuration, we will use a heavy rubber boot which is banded down with stainless steel banding to seal all of the contaminates out and keep the grease in. The XC configuration uses the same slip yoke & spline stub but instead of using the rubber boot, we drill and tap the slip yoke for a grease fitting and use a dust cap which has convolutions that follow the spline stub for sealing. We consider the XB configuration to be the longest lasting and best value. "

Should I spring for the upgrades? Any real pros or cons to each option? I am willing to spend the money to get the best set up. I just don't want to order an option that will hinder me in the future. Please let me know what you think!
The body lift will not affect the drive shaft length but the tummy tuck will. The more you shove that transfer case into the body the greater distance and angle you create between the transfer case and rear axle. The measurement will need to be taken once the tummy tuck has been done and in your case the SYE too.

Now on control arms you are gonna need upper and lower rear control arms (usally, but there are exceptions). I know Rokmen uppers will fit the exception. What the exceptions falls under depends on how much of a suspension lift that you have and how much of a tummy tuck you did. The higher the lift and/or tummy tuck the more you will have to rotate the axle with just an upper arm. Rokmen uses a longer threaded JJ and will allow more adjustment than say a Currie upper control arm. Rokmen buys there control JJ's from Currie. Now if you buy Currie rear arms you will need both upper and lower. I have read where a few folks on Jeep Forum were able to get just an upper Currie control arm to work. It is however recommended to use both upper and lower control arms not matter who you go with. It is also recommended to use both JJ's at both end to achiever a better flex. The rubber bushing can bind a little. The bad part is Currie is wanting on a new shippment of JJ's and they wont have them for 2 to 3 weeks. I'm waiting on mine too because of that. If you wanna change out control arms find evergreen 4x4 on here and he does great deals. Where mine are coming from once Currie gets there shippment.

Now on to the DC drive shaft. This what I gather. The shaft can move back and forth along the splines (groves per say) as the axles move. The longer the splines are the great the shaft can move back and forth. On the banding part of the axle: where the splines are there is a rubber boot covering the splines and its sealed with metal bands. Nothing in and out. Other is just like grease fitting on the front of your jeep. Now far a recomendations I'd pm Jerry on the drive shaft. He is out of town per one of his post so he should hit you back shortly. Read this, very informative: Pirate4x4.Com - Extreme Four Wheel Drive

Hope I helped some.
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IF YOU CAN'T FIX IT WITH A HAMMER, YOU'VE GOT AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM.
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Old 05-13-2011, 12:36 AM   #22
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I was planning on installing the SYE and the driveshaft and getting rid of the transfer case drop for now. Eventually I'll do the 1" body lift and the Tummy Tuck to get rid of the stock shovel. I don't want to run into problems when I upgrade though.

I actually already have the JKS upper adjustable control arms on the way. I found them on sale over at Jeepforum with free shipping too so I had to grab em. Hopefully they won't be too much worse without the JJs.

I guess the upgrades to the driveshaft have to do with what type of wheeling I'll be doing but I do a lot of trails with mixed terrain. Probably be getting in to rocks here soon once I make a trip to Superlift ORV Park.

Mortalis that link was very informative! Thank you for posting it. Your help is much appreciated.
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Old 05-13-2011, 01:06 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TORO View Post
I was planning on installing the SYE and the driveshaft and getting rid of the transfer case drop for now. Eventually I'll do the 1" body lift and the Tummy Tuck to get rid of the stock shovel. I don't want to run into problems when I upgrade though.

I actually already have the JKS upper adjustable control arms on the way. I found them on sale over at Jeepforum with free shipping too so I had to grab em. Hopefully they won't be too much worse without the JJs.

I guess the upgrades to the driveshaft have to do with what type of wheeling I'll be doing but I do a lot of trails with mixed terrain. Probably be getting in to rocks here soon once I make a trip to Superlift ORV Park.

Mortalis that link was very informative! Thank you for posting it. Your help is much appreciated.

No problem. Throwing this out there that when you do, do a TT that you more than likely need a new DC shaft since you created a greater distance between the T-Case and the yoke. Food for thought.
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YOU ONLY NEED TWO TOOLS IN LIFE - WD-40 AND DUCT TAPE. IF IT DOESN'T MOVE AND SHOULD, USE THE WD-40. IF IT SHOULDN'T MOVE AND DOES, USE THE DUCT TAPE.

IF YOU CAN'T FIX IT WITH A HAMMER, YOU'VE GOT AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM.
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Old 05-13-2011, 01:24 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
Any shop can build a good quality driveshaft using the same or similar quality components that Tom Wood does. What has made Tom wood a nearly household name for driveshafts is his outstandng pre and post-sales support. Tom has even called me several months after shipping me a driveshaft (I've had five or six TW driveshafts over two different TJs) to check up on it and to make sure I was happy with it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TORO View Post
Well i got a great deal and ended up going with 4x4groupbuy. Also got some other goodies on the way! Can't wait! I had a couple more questions hopefully someone can help me out with. I also have adjustable upper control arms on the way and soon I will be adding a 1" body lift and a ucf ultra high clearance transfer case skid. I am measuring the length for the new cv driveshaft after installing the sye but do I need to factor in the fact that I'll be adding the ucf skid and 1" body lift with the measurement or just go ahead and measure normally?

Lastly they asked me if I would like to upgrade my driveshaft with the following:

"There are a couple upgrades too that are available. Long Travel and Premium. $25 and $40 extra. Let me know if you want to upgrade. If vehicle will be used off road a lot, it is a good idea to at least go up to the Long Travel... Both Upgrades are picture in the Guide I have attached... The S spline is a conventional spline stub that will yield a safe, effective and usable stroke of 3”. The X spline is longer than the S spline. The X spline is cut for the full length of the spline stub. This gives a bit more than twice the contact area between the slip yoke and spline stub and a stroke of 4-1/2". This in and of itself will net more than twice the life on these two components.
With the XB configuration, we will use a heavy rubber boot which is banded down with stainless steel banding to seal all of the contaminates out and keep the grease in. The XC configuration uses the same slip yoke & spline stub but instead of using the rubber boot, we drill and tap the slip yoke for a grease fitting and use a dust cap which has convolutions that follow the spline stub for sealing. We consider the XB configuration to be the longest lasting and best value. "

Should I spring for the upgrades? Any real pros or cons to each option? I am willing to spend the money to get the best set up. I just don't want to order an option that will hinder me in the future. Please let me know what you think!
That is why Tom Wood is the man, you can call him and tell him what you have and he waves his wand and BAM you have exactly what you need.

You should steer away from the u-joints drilled for grease fitting. By drilling the joint for a zerk fitting it takes away from the strength of the joint. Go with a good quality sealed joint. That is one of the ways some companies give a better price is they use cheaper parts and someone like Tom Wood is pretty set in pricing as they use the best parts and there is not a lot of wiggle room.
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Old 05-16-2011, 01:39 PM   #25
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How do you decide if you need a 1310, 1330, or 1350 DC Shaft? Or a mix like you have?
All Wrangler TJ driveshafts come with a 1310 size u-joint in both driveshafts. The Rubicon gets a bit more complicated with u-joints that are 1330 based but with several being a combination of 1310 on one side and 1330 on the other. I can't even say what the p/ns are for the Rubicon's u-joints anymore since my Rubicon didn't come with stock Rubicon u-joints so I never needed to buy any for it.

My current 1330/1350 u-joint combination rear driveshaft in my Rubicon is just so I hope I won't have any more breakages on the trail. I had a pretty bad driveshaft breakage last year with 1330 u-joints (took two driveshafts to make one good one) but that was on a gruesome trail that caused two control arm mounts to fail at once which broke the rear driveshaft. 1350 u-joints are pretty big.

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