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Old 02-27-2011, 07:12 PM   #1
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Exclamation All of a sudden... stalled & won't run

1998 TJ Sport 6cyl 4.0L manual

I drove her around this morning to get the differential fluid warmed up for a front fluid change. An hour after I finished up with the front differential fluid change, I cranked her up, let her warm up a little, then backed out of the driveway and drove less than 100' down the road to the stop sign. Everything seemed just fine. As I pulled away from the stop sign, the Jeep kind of lurched and died. It wouldn't crank.

I pushed it back to near my driveway and cussed at it for a while. The starter tried but it wouldn't fire. Eventually, I discovered that if I stood on the accelerator, I could get it to fire & eventually crank. It sputtered and spit and blew black smoke & liquid out the tailpipe & died again. Eventually, I could get it to idle but touching the accelerator caused a long, slow increase in RPMs and it would die. Crank it again and it sputtered, spit, gasped, & died. WHen I do get it to idle, I hear a sucking sound from the airbox.

I need a diagnosis, please. Preferably one with a cure that costs less than $50.

I was thinking IAC. Could this be it? I need a hand with this one.

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Old 02-27-2011, 07:35 PM   #2
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When you say it wouldn't crank, do you mean the starter would crank the engine (spin it) but it just wouldn't start?

If the starter is cranking the engine as normally but it just won't start and run right, my first suspicion would be the crankshaft position sensor that is mounted on the driver's side, up high where the transmission bolts to the engine. I don't think it's the IAC since stepping on the accelerator, which bypasses the IAC, doesn't help. Could you have bumped into the CPS or its wiring somehow?

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Old 02-27-2011, 07:36 PM   #3
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Check for codes.

Could be a number of things ranging from the IAC, to fuel pump, CPS, MAF, coil...

I'd really start looking around in the area where you were working to see if you knocked a sensor connection loose or some other inadvertent damage.
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Old 02-27-2011, 07:47 PM   #4
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When you say it wouldn't crank, do you mean the starter would crank the engine (spin it) but it just wouldn't start?

If the starter is cranking the engine as normally but it just won't start and run right, my first suspicion would be the crankshaft position sensor that is mounted on the driver's side, up high where the transmission bolts to the engine. I don't think it's the IAC since stepping on the accelerator, which bypasses the IAC, doesn't help. Could you have bumped into the CPS or its wiring somehow?
The starter is cranking the engine but it won't turn over unless I stand on the accelerator. When it does start, it skips, sputters, blows black smoke, & dies. When I did get it to idle, hitting the accelerator caused it to slowly climb in RPMs then die. While idling, it makes a sucking air sound.

I don't think I touched anything other than the differential today. I was going to attempt to change the plugs & wires until I saw that one plug was hidden behind the A/C compressor & decided not to fool with it today. That's when I was going to take the kids for a ride and she starting having problems all of a sudden.

Even if I hit the CPS, would it have run like a top from startup, warm-up, & a drive down the street then all of a sudden crap out? Where can I find a diagram of the CPS & wiring location?
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Old 02-27-2011, 07:48 PM   #5
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Check for codes.

Could be a number of things ranging from the IAC, to fuel pump, CPS, MAF, coil...

I'd really start looking around in the area where you were working to see if you knocked a sensor connection loose or some other inadvertent damage.
I don't have a code checker. Is there some other way?
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Old 02-27-2011, 09:20 PM   #6
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I just went back out & checked some things.

The fuel pump is working & I'm getting fuel to the fuel rail. SInce I could get it started, I figured this was the case.

I found the CPS & it looks OK. It was way too high for me to have touched it this weekend.

It started fine & ran fine. I shit it down & it started again. The 3rd time I tried it took me standing on the accelerator but it started. I drove it about 1/2 mile then parked it again and shut it down. It was like deja vu all over again. The exact same as this afternoon. Once I did get it started, it wouldn't stay running. Coughed, sputtered, & died.

Funny thing I noticed when I had it running. The engine was fully warm but when I started it, the needle rose to about halfway to 210 then slowly dropped back to 0 and stayed there. The tach needle also was jumpy at idle.

What the heck is going on??!??!
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Old 02-27-2011, 09:51 PM   #7
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As far as codes go - you can do a simple search within this forum for codes. Dash display- Beyond that - check sensor
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Old 02-28-2011, 08:32 AM   #8
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My 98 won't give CEL codes. It just does a gauge test.

The temp gauge dropping to 0 is puzzling.
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Old 02-28-2011, 11:12 AM   #9
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It cranked & ran this morning so I took it to my mechanic. His tech hooked up to the computer, frowned a lot, mumbled, them hooked the computer leads to the ground on the battery & stuck the other end into the engine coolant sensor connector from the top side. Immediately, the temp gauge started working and the engine ran smoother. He messed with it a while longer & said the connector lost connection so the sensor was telling the engine to run very rich & that is where I got my horrible running, dying, & black smoke out the tailpipe.

He said he'd wait & see if it gave me more trouble before replacing the connector. I think I need to replace it BEFORE if gives me more trouble.
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Old 02-28-2011, 05:02 PM   #10
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He said he'd wait & see if it gave me more trouble before replacing the connector. I think I need to replace it BEFORE if gives me more trouble.
X2... Sooner would seem better than waiting for it to happen again!
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Old 02-28-2011, 05:08 PM   #11
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X2... Sooner would seem better than waiting for it to happen again!
Was at the dealership today so I got them to order me a new kit to replace the connector.

Has anyone ever used the dealership's kit for replacing one of these before? Is it difficult? Will I need special tools?









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Old 02-28-2011, 06:15 PM   #12
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before picking up your part from the dealership,go to a auto parts like carquest or etc.they should have a replacement connector for half as much as the dealer will rape ya for!
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Old 03-01-2011, 09:35 PM   #13
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Was at the dealership today so I got them to order me a new kit to replace the connector.

Has anyone ever used the dealership's kit for replacing one of these before? Is it difficult? Will I need special tools?











Anyone ever changed the connector using the factory "kit"? Hard, easy, run away?
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Old 03-02-2011, 05:33 AM   #14
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It all depends on how the kit is. If it an assembled plug and all you need to do is cut and butt connect the wires, easy. If you need to crimp/solder the pins, then assemble, it can be a pain but doable. Just make sure you do it in the right order and keep your wires in the right spot.

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