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Almost couldn't make it up the hill!

5K views 35 replies 16 participants last post by  headbasha 
#1 ·
So, took the jeep out for the first time off roading since i got it at Stony Lonesome OHV park. Its a 99 TJ, 4.0l, Auto, 4" susp"lift and 3" BL, 33X12 on 15's. Stock gears, 4high only, low does not work because i think the linkage is wrong.

Anyways. First time out for the jeep since i purchased it 1 month ago. never owned one or any 4x4 for that matter.

So this is a OHV park. So things are marked, Easy, advanced, and extreme. There is a main road that leads to all the trails. I had a very very hard time making it up the first hill on the main road in 4H.

I had the pedal to the floor in 1st gear and i was barley crawling up the hill. I thought i wasn't going to make it. After this point i was scared and worried about even going down the other paths. I made it through all the easy section and didnt get to try the advanced afraid i wouldn't make it up the hill. Oh yea, I did have the air on and it stopped blowing going up the hill. I thought it was weird.

any suggestions?

 
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#4 ·
you need Low and some better gears.
get low fixed first.
 
#6 ·
When i try to shift into low it goes into position but i hear some grinding. I roll like 5 mph, put the tranny in N, then pull the 4x4 lever from 4h to N then to 4L. I then put it back into Drive and nothing happend. I sit still. Its not making it into 4L.
 
#10 ·
Your transfer case's shifter mechanism has likely pulled out of adjustment. The 3" body lift may be partly or even completely responsible for the shifter problem since a 3" body lift misaligns one side of the shifter mechanism's mounting bracket by 3".

There are transfer case mounting bracket kits made to correct that problem but they are a PITA to install and not 100% effective for more extreme situations like a 3" body lift causes. I'd get rid of the 3" body lift and then you can adjust the shifter mechanism so it reliably shifts the t-case into 4Lo.

The bolt circled in red in the below photo is what holds the shifter mechanism in adjustment but it's not so good at doing that if there is a 3" body lift installed.
 

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#11 ·
It also has a 1" transfer case drop. If i do take out the body lift, how do i do that? Or should i get a shop to do it. And what will it affect? Is that all that has to be done is just remove the body lift?

Also, Can someone explain the 4low as in how it works compared to 4high.
 
#13 ·
Shifting from 4Hi to 4Lo would give you roughtly the same power boost and increase in engine rpms like shifting from 3rd gear to 1st gear would.

The 1" t-case drop is further exacerbating the situation caused by the 3" body lift... the two combined are creating a problem for the t-case shifter like a 4" body lift or a 4" t-case drop.

A 3" body lift often needs modification be done to the transmission shifter lever (bending) and fuel lines (extending them) next to the fuel filler cap so it may not be all that easily removed if you're not handy with tools and figuring out issues that it could have caused.

The above are just a couple reasons why I always recommend against the installation of a 3" body lift.
 
#14 ·
Id get my Jeep fixed (something must be wrong other than the obvious issue with 4 low). Then I'd replace those half bald mtz's with some 37" TSL's and wheel with a ride home till you destroy the rear end and rebuild as you break shit.

If I already had a 3" sl and a 3" bl, I'd put some meat under there and enjoy.
 
#16 ·
What do you think could be wrong? What are TSL's. 37 seem huge. What are the draw backs of having those on there? I feel as if i am underpowered already with the 33's. It is my toy so it is a 3rd vehicle. On the way to the park its a 20mil drive. I have to get on the highway and its tough keeping up with traffic. Especially going up hill. Its bad lol. Never had a vehicle act like this jeep. lol
 
#15 ·
Replace the 3" body lift with a 1.25" body lift. It will come with new bolts and grill supports so you will not have to worry about shortening or finding the right length body bolts. It will also come with a TC linkage bracket in case you need it (although I would recommend a Novak cable shifter). You will also be set for a tummy tuck should you want one in the future. Then, adjust your linkage by the above method.

JMHO.
 
#20 ·
I agree with TJDave that you should just get the 1.25" BL that's complete and that should solve most of your problems.

Don't go that 37" route because you'll still have to deal with the massive body lift, a regear, and new axles when you blow those up.

As far as the shifter linkage I can't be of much help. I know with my 1.25"BL there was a bolt that was preventing the linkage from engaging the 4lo all the way. Welding the linkage and taking out the bolt solved that problem.
 
#21 ·
That flat plate hanging down from your tub is an add on bracket. The tub mount looks as if it has also been relocated and lowered. The whole thing is eff'd up. There lies your problem. The body lift is so tall, the angle to your shift lever is still messed up no matter how many fudged fix-its the PO added. You may (maybe) be able to adjust the slide rod to get your 4lo back, but I am doubtful.
I stand by my suggestion above.
 
#22 ·
Thanks dave, what BL should I go with? Will that kit come with all the stuff to fix the effd up stuff? Now, what about the power loss issues on highway and going up hill. That tag says 272 gears. What gears should I get? Should I stick with 33"?
 
#24 ·
The 2.72 ratio is in your transfer case. What most people swap out is the axle gears. I'm gonna guess that you have 3.07s. I actually went from 3.73s to 4.56s a few months ago. Its the perfect ratio for the 4.0L and 5 speed. However its not cheap and can set you back $1100-1800. Since this isn't your DD getting your highway power back probably wont be as important to you as it was to me though.
 
#25 ·
I only have experience with the JKS 1.25" body lift. I also installed their 1" motor mount lift at the same time. I had some vibes after adding a 2" spacer lift years ago, the MML solved that without dropping the transfer case. There may be better ones out there, but the JKS has been working great for almost 4 years since the install.
Keep in mind, the PO probably messed with other stuff when he installed that 3" body lift that may need to be addressed. Find a buddy with a TJ and crawl under and around it and look for goofy stuff on yours.
Your tranny, 4.56 gears, and 33" tires are ideal.
 
#27 ·
I think you may be right. I have the 42rle OD auto. I just went from 33's with 3.73's to 35's with 4.88's. It is a ton better than it was. It would be better with 5.13's, but I am as low as I can go with my D30 up front.
 
#29 ·
All those plates are definitely drop down brackets for your shifter linkage. I agree with TJDave that your angle is so severe that it is preventing you from shifting to 4low.

To fix your shifter linkage after you remove the body lift you will need to remove all those drop brackets. The pivot point mounts directly to the U bracket and move the U bracket back up. Then adjust the shifter using the bolt that Jerry pointed out. Oh and while doing this and if you need to remove any of the rods try to pop them out while leaving the rubber bushings in the arms and not on the rods. Those things are a royal pain to put back in.

Most suggested body lift is the JKS 1.25" (this comes with a drop bracket to use on your shifter when you have a t-case drop and/or no engine lift). It is considered the max body lift you would want to install. Other good one is Daystar 1", I believe it comes with all new hardware so if any stock part is mangled you would have a replacement. Definitely wait for a guy that is experienced at removing a 3" body lift for what you would need to do to correct the "problems" with installing one.
 
#31 ·
This is not my daily driver but i do drive it around. I would have taken it on my last vacation but the gas milage is 10-13 mpg at best. I would like to get a gear ratio that is better for highway use but still able to go offroad.

Im starting to think i should just sell this TJ and get me something that has not been modded and then put what i want on it.
 
#35 ·
That could be one way to go but if you did some of the work that has been suggested here, then you'd be ahead of the game in that you personally know what has/hasn't been done to your rig. And you'll get the experience and further insight to how your rig works overall.
Now adding/replacing the current body lift with a 1.25" lift is a good idea and can be done by anyone. Try that first and that should eliminate the issue with the transfer case.
 
#32 ·
Idk-just another opinion----From what I am "hearing" for what you want to do a regear and replace of body lift with a 1.25 and you would be "set". Already have the money invested in the Jeep-the previous owner couldn't have wheeled it in the condition it is in, so it hasn't been "beat on". I think I would find a couple of "good" shops, one for the regear and one for the lift. I would GUESS $3000 tops would cover everything.

Biggest decision will be what gears are going to work best for you? I think it would cost more to get another TJ or even JK close to stock and start over. You already have the 4" suspension and 33s" --If you regear and correct the bodylift you are done. Check the cost of a 4" suspension lift and 33"s a lot more than the $3000 I am guessing at.

just my .02
 
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