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Old 06-05-2011, 04:35 PM   #1
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Almost couldn't make it up the hill!

So, took the jeep out for the first time off roading since i got it at Stony Lonesome OHV park. Its a 99 TJ, 4.0l, Auto, 4" susp"lift and 3" BL, 33X12 on 15's. Stock gears, 4high only, low does not work because i think the linkage is wrong.

Anyways. First time out for the jeep since i purchased it 1 month ago. never owned one or any 4x4 for that matter.

So this is a OHV park. So things are marked, Easy, advanced, and extreme. There is a main road that leads to all the trails. I had a very very hard time making it up the first hill on the main road in 4H.

I had the pedal to the floor in 1st gear and i was barley crawling up the hill. I thought i wasn't going to make it. After this point i was scared and worried about even going down the other paths. I made it through all the easy section and didnt get to try the advanced afraid i wouldn't make it up the hill. Oh yea, I did have the air on and it stopped blowing going up the hill. I thought it was weird.

any suggestions?


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Old 06-05-2011, 04:38 PM   #2
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Looks great!

1st thing, get 4 lo fixed, 2nd and that if you need to. Think about better gear ratios.


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Old 06-05-2011, 04:47 PM   #3
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Better gear ratio in the axles + 4lo will solve that. Quick question: Why do you have a 3" BL when you already have a 4" suspension lift? 4" is all you need to run 33's.
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Old 06-05-2011, 04:49 PM   #4
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you need Low and some better gears.
get low fixed first.
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Old 06-05-2011, 05:13 PM   #5
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What happens when you try to shift into 4Lo and are you stopped or driving at speed when trying to shift into 4Lo?
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Old 06-05-2011, 05:41 PM   #6
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When i try to shift into low it goes into position but i hear some grinding. I roll like 5 mph, put the tranny in N, then pull the 4x4 lever from 4h to N then to 4L. I then put it back into Drive and nothing happend. I sit still. Its not making it into 4L.
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Old 06-05-2011, 05:44 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InvertChaos View Post
Better gear ratio in the axles + 4lo will solve that. Quick question: Why do you have a 3" BL when you already have a 4" suspension lift? 4" is all you need to run 33's.
It came this way when i bought it. I personally do not like the 3" body lift. I dont like seeing whats on the other side of my vehicle between my frame and body. lol
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Old 06-05-2011, 05:58 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by headbasha

It came this way when i bought it. I personally do not like the 3" body lift. I dont like seeing whats on the other side of my vehicle between my frame and body. lol
Oh okay. I kniw what you mean. Theyre ugly lol. If it were mine I would take it off.
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Old 06-05-2011, 06:12 PM   #9
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That sounds about like the same issue we had in Shell's TJ trying to get it into 4H we just had to find the sweet spot.
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Old 06-05-2011, 06:20 PM   #10
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Your transfer case's shifter mechanism has likely pulled out of adjustment. The 3" body lift may be partly or even completely responsible for the shifter problem since a 3" body lift misaligns one side of the shifter mechanism's mounting bracket by 3".

There are transfer case mounting bracket kits made to correct that problem but they are a PITA to install and not 100% effective for more extreme situations like a 3" body lift causes. I'd get rid of the 3" body lift and then you can adjust the shifter mechanism so it reliably shifts the t-case into 4Lo.

The bolt circled in red in the below photo is what holds the shifter mechanism in adjustment but it's not so good at doing that if there is a 3" body lift installed.
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Old 06-05-2011, 06:27 PM   #11
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It also has a 1" transfer case drop. If i do take out the body lift, how do i do that? Or should i get a shop to do it. And what will it affect? Is that all that has to be done is just remove the body lift?

Also, Can someone explain the 4low as in how it works compared to 4high.
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Old 06-05-2011, 06:42 PM   #12
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4 low basically doubles your gearing. So If you have 3.07 gears, in 4 low will be like having 6.14 gearing. Get 4 low fixed and you'll be able to crawl over near anything.
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Old 06-05-2011, 06:44 PM   #13
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Shifting from 4Hi to 4Lo would give you roughtly the same power boost and increase in engine rpms like shifting from 3rd gear to 1st gear would.

The 1" t-case drop is further exacerbating the situation caused by the 3" body lift... the two combined are creating a problem for the t-case shifter like a 4" body lift or a 4" t-case drop.

A 3" body lift often needs modification be done to the transmission shifter lever (bending) and fuel lines (extending them) next to the fuel filler cap so it may not be all that easily removed if you're not handy with tools and figuring out issues that it could have caused.

The above are just a couple reasons why I always recommend against the installation of a 3" body lift.
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Old 06-05-2011, 07:38 PM   #14
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Id get my Jeep fixed (something must be wrong other than the obvious issue with 4 low). Then I'd replace those half bald mtz's with some 37" TSL's and wheel with a ride home till you destroy the rear end and rebuild as you break shit.

If I already had a 3" sl and a 3" bl, I'd put some meat under there and enjoy.
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Old 06-05-2011, 07:57 PM   #15
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Replace the 3" body lift with a 1.25" body lift. It will come with new bolts and grill supports so you will not have to worry about shortening or finding the right length body bolts. It will also come with a TC linkage bracket in case you need it (although I would recommend a Novak cable shifter). You will also be set for a tummy tuck should you want one in the future. Then, adjust your linkage by the above method.

JMHO.
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Old 06-05-2011, 08:34 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hendog View Post
Id get my Jeep fixed (something must be wrong other than the obvious issue with 4 low). Then I'd replace those half bald mtz's with some 37" TSL's and wheel with a ride home till you destroy the rear end and rebuild as you break shit.

If I already had a 3" sl and a 3" bl, I'd put some meat under there and enjoy.
What do you think could be wrong? What are TSL's. 37 seem huge. What are the draw backs of having those on there? I feel as if i am underpowered already with the 33's. It is my toy so it is a 3rd vehicle. On the way to the park its a 20mil drive. I have to get on the highway and its tough keeping up with traffic. Especially going up hill. Its bad lol. Never had a vehicle act like this jeep. lol
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Old 06-05-2011, 08:34 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hendog View Post
Id get my Jeep fixed (something must be wrong other than the obvious issue with 4 low). Then I'd replace those half bald mtz's with some 37" TSL's and wheel with a ride home till you destroy the rear end and rebuild as you break shit.

If I already had a 3" sl and a 3" bl, I'd put some meat under there and enjoy.
So your suggesting that he puts on 37" tall tires and wheels his Jeep until he blows the rear?...Then what? Completely swap out the front and rear differentials?
I dont see the logic behind any of that, unless it was a joke.


To the original poster. First thing I would do is get rid of the 3" body lift. Then adjust the transfer case linkage. That would most likely clear up any issues with shifting into 4lo.
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Old 06-05-2011, 08:36 PM   #18
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I took some pics of the linkage now that i know what im looking at. Can anyone make a prognosis?











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Old 06-05-2011, 09:09 PM   #19
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Anyone?
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Old 06-05-2011, 09:21 PM   #20
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I agree with TJDave that you should just get the 1.25" BL that's complete and that should solve most of your problems.

Don't go that 37" route because you'll still have to deal with the massive body lift, a regear, and new axles when you blow those up.

As far as the shifter linkage I can't be of much help. I know with my 1.25"BL there was a bolt that was preventing the linkage from engaging the 4lo all the way. Welding the linkage and taking out the bolt solved that problem.
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Old 06-05-2011, 09:32 PM   #21
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That flat plate hanging down from your tub is an add on bracket. The tub mount looks as if it has also been relocated and lowered. The whole thing is eff'd up. There lies your problem. The body lift is so tall, the angle to your shift lever is still messed up no matter how many fudged fix-its the PO added. You may (maybe) be able to adjust the slide rod to get your 4lo back, but I am doubtful.
I stand by my suggestion above.
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Old 06-05-2011, 09:48 PM   #22
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Thanks dave, what BL should I go with? Will that kit come with all the stuff to fix the effd up stuff? Now, what about the power loss issues on highway and going up hill. That tag says 272 gears. What gears should I get? Should I stick with 33"?
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Old 06-05-2011, 09:52 PM   #23
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Headbasha, do you live in the Cullman area? I am in Huntsville, I haven't been to Stoney yet but I want to. I have been a couple of times to Hale Mountain OHV. It is about 30-45 min. northeast of Huntsville in Elora, TN.
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Old 06-05-2011, 09:53 PM   #24
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The 2.72 ratio is in your transfer case. What most people swap out is the axle gears. I'm gonna guess that you have 3.07s. I actually went from 3.73s to 4.56s a few months ago. Its the perfect ratio for the 4.0L and 5 speed. However its not cheap and can set you back $1100-1800. Since this isn't your DD getting your highway power back probably wont be as important to you as it was to me though.
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Old 06-05-2011, 09:57 PM   #25
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I only have experience with the JKS 1.25" body lift. I also installed their 1" motor mount lift at the same time. I had some vibes after adding a 2" spacer lift years ago, the MML solved that without dropping the transfer case. There may be better ones out there, but the JKS has been working great for almost 4 years since the install.
Keep in mind, the PO probably messed with other stuff when he installed that 3" body lift that may need to be addressed. Find a buddy with a TJ and crawl under and around it and look for goofy stuff on yours.
Your tranny, 4.56 gears, and 33" tires are ideal.
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Old 06-05-2011, 10:00 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TJDave
Your tranny, 4.56 gears, and 33" tires are ideal.
I thought that for the 3 speed auto that 4.11 would be ideal due to not having an O/D gear. Then 4.56 for the 5 speed, and 4.88 for the 4 speed auto.
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Old 06-05-2011, 10:07 PM   #27
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I thought that for the 3 speed auto that 4.11 would be ideal due to not having an O/D gear. Then 4.56 for the 5 speed, and 4.88 for the 4 speed auto.
I think you may be right. I have the 42rle OD auto. I just went from 33's with 3.73's to 35's with 4.88's. It is a ton better than it was. It would be better with 5.13's, but I am as low as I can go with my D30 up front.
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Old 06-05-2011, 10:08 PM   #28
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I thought that for the 3 speed auto that 4.11 would be ideal due to not having an O/D gear. Then 4.56 for the 5 speed, and 4.88 for the 4 speed auto.

The 3 speed has the lock up torque converter which does roughly the same thing as an OD gear. I would say either 4.11 or 4.56 would be fine. depends on if the OP wants a sportier ride or better MPGs.
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Old 06-05-2011, 10:26 PM   #29
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All those plates are definitely drop down brackets for your shifter linkage. I agree with TJDave that your angle is so severe that it is preventing you from shifting to 4low.

To fix your shifter linkage after you remove the body lift you will need to remove all those drop brackets. The pivot point mounts directly to the U bracket and move the U bracket back up. Then adjust the shifter using the bolt that Jerry pointed out. Oh and while doing this and if you need to remove any of the rods try to pop them out while leaving the rubber bushings in the arms and not on the rods. Those things are a royal pain to put back in.

Most suggested body lift is the JKS 1.25" (this comes with a drop bracket to use on your shifter when you have a t-case drop and/or no engine lift). It is considered the max body lift you would want to install. Other good one is Daystar 1", I believe it comes with all new hardware so if any stock part is mangled you would have a replacement. Definitely wait for a guy that is experienced at removing a 3" body lift for what you would need to do to correct the "problems" with installing one.
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Old 06-05-2011, 10:33 PM   #30
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The 3 speed has the lock up torque converter which does roughly the same thing as an OD gear.
The 3-speed 32RH auto tranny's locking torque converter only locks the torque converter so it doesn't slip and allow extra mpg-robbing engine rpms. It's not the same as an overdrive ratio, especially since the 4-speed automatic used in later TJs both locks the torque converter and has a true overdrive that significantly drops the rpms.

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