My description of it would be that it feels like my front axle came loose and is going to fall off, or my front wheels are going to fall off. Like as if the wheels were only on with one lug and that was loose. If I slow down immediately, it evens out and goes away.
I went through the exact same thing with my 99' TJ 4" with 33-12.50s. This suddenly began after hitting some rocky trails. When going about 45-50mph it woud shake side to side. It lasted until the next time i flexed the suspension out on the trials. It's driving like it used to before the shudder. I cant explain it.
This is more than a tire problem. I am taking my 2006 Jeep Wrangler X to the dealer tomorrow. Sometimes when I hit a bump at low or high speeds the Jeep shakes violently. It feels like the wheels are going to fall off. I am not exaggerating at all. I just hoped my jeep would come to a stop before it broke up. I mean..the whole Jeep vibrated and it was hard to hold on to the steering wheel. My Jeep is completely stock and I have not had it off-road at all. This happened when my wife was driving it too. Its similar to a problem I had when I first purchased my Jeep. When I hit the brakes it would shake. The dealer ended up replacing the rotors then and told me this problem was due to a "bad batch of Jeeps." Some have suggested its something to do with the steering damper when it comes to the wobble issue. This is not just a little wobble...it is violent shaking. I was ready for a wheel to fall off. I will let you know what the dealer tells me.
Ever since solid axles were used it's been called "shimmy." DW is a more recent term.
I've gotten involved with several "uncurable" DW cases, it's always a challenge.
Start with the easy and basics.
Check tire balance and for bent rims.
Check underneath for anything obviously loose - tie rod ends, ball joints, track bar ends, etc. Just looking isn't enough. Put your fingers on the joint, touching both surfaces while someone wiggles the steering quickly wheel back and forth. You can feel looseness better than seeing it. Do that on all joints.
Look for small cracks or broken welds in the frame, even several feet back from the front suspension.
Check carefully where the steering box mounts - the pod it mounts to often breaks the welds. -- this is important - that pod breaks off and can leave you without steering!
Do the Poorman's Magnaflux Trick on all the welds (spray a light coat of flat black paint on all suspected areas, drive it a few days, look for a small thin orange line of rust along the crack.)
A steering damper will not CAUSE DW, it MAY hide it somewhat, but you should not even need one at all. The damper is to take the sudden shock out of the steering wheel when off roading.
Replace anything that's suspect. I know that can be expensive and lots of work, but it has to be done.
Especially check the axle end of the trackbar where it attaches to the axle. The bolt may be tight, but it's still been the problem on the "impossible" ones.
Remove the bolt, the nut on the backside has a flange on it that keeps it from turning.
Drop the trackbar down.
Put the bolt back in the hole through the mount - notice it's loose - and notice the worn marks on the bolt. The hole warbles out egg shaped, and the bolt itself gets a ridge worn in it. Even if the bolt is tight, it still moves back and forth in the egg shaped hole when DW'ing.
Get a new bolt and nut from THE JEEP DEALER. They will be about $10 for the pair - THE BOLT IS NOT A STANDARD METRIC BOLT, it has a shoulder that must be matched, the nut has the flange to help with installation. Trying to use a standard metric bolt without the shoulder is asking for trouble.
The holes in the mount - the front one can be welded, but the rear there's no access. What I've done is carefully weld the front hole slightly undersized and redrill it. Then shape a hunk of 1/4" plate like the front of the bracket with a new exact sized hole in it. Then weld that plate over the holem aking sure the holes line up. The original bracket is only 1/8, so adding the 1/4" piece makes it now 3/8 thick.
You may have to grind the head of the new bolt slightly to clear the tie rod.
Make sure the trackbar's bushing is tight on the bolt too. If not, replace the trackbar. The bushing itself is not replaceable.
Re-assemble it. Before tightening, make sure the trackbar just barely fits into the bracket. The bracket should "pinch" the end tightly. If there is any looseness, shim it with thin washers.
Tighten it "gorilla tight" using the correct Locktite.
So far - every "impossible" one I've done that did the trick.
It's no wonder the country is falling apart - stupidity abounds!
My jeep is at the dealers. They tell me my rotors are severely warped and brakes are metal to metal. I had the dealer replace the rotors 2 weeks after I drove it off the lot because they told me there was a "bad batch of Jeeps with bad rotors." Now they find the same problem. Not sure if they are going to charge me for this....hopefully nothing.
364.00 and it is "fixed." Warped rotors and metal to metal brakes. This has to be some sort of defect. This has happened to many many people and it is rare for them to go bad so fast. I have never had this type of problem with any other vehicle I have owned. Two weeks after I drove it off the lot they replaced them because they told me there was a "bad Batch" of Jeeps with defective rotors. Who is to say these were not defective too.? I am going to check into it.
Yellow - live with what? DW - read the previous posts! Or sell your rig to me cheap! If you mean the brakes - read on.
Sky - Never heard of it being common in Jeeps, but in your area a bad batch may have come through (or dealer's BSing.) I have seen it a few times on other vehicles. It's not common, but not totally unusual either.
Try something - Press on the brake pedal once or twice - like you were stopping normal - not gorilla hard.
Slide under and open the bleeder valve. You should get just a tiny dribble, a few drops, of brake fluid. We aren't bleeding it, just looking to see if there's any pressure in the line. Bet there is - if so, it'll shoot out a small stream.
If that happens, take it back to the dealer. The check valves in the MC are wrong.
The rear line for the drum brakes are supposed to hold slight pressure - 3-5 lbs - that keeps the wheel cylinder cups expanded against the cyl wall, keeping out air. The MC uses a check valve to keep a slight pressure.
But - the front disc should NOT hold pressure - the pads ride up against the discs all the time - there is no return spring like in the rear drum type. ANY pressure in the front line causes the pads to ride too hard against the disc, causing what you've experienced - very premature wear (and a loss of mileage and power - since the brakes are always on.)
Sometimes the maker of MC's put the check valve in the wrong port (bad batch?) Rebuilders are famous for it - and sometimes they leave them out totally, causing even more, but different, problems.
You can check it yourself - and cure it yourself if you want. Simply disconnect the brake lines from the MC - look right inside the ports - you should see the check valve inside the port. It should be on the line to the REAR brakes, not on the front line to the discs.
If you need to remove it; if brass, use a sheet metal screw inserted carefully in the valve's sleeve and yank it out. If rubber a long nose plier works.
You'll need to bleed it when finished - since any air got in right at the fitting - simply very slowly and gently push the pedal down just slightly, maybe 1/4 of the way down - not enough to feel pressure. Wait a few seconds holding that position (lets the bubbles come back up the the MC.) Then let up, wait a moment - you'll see a few bubbles come up. Repeat gently a few times until no more bubbles. Do it right, you won't have to bleed the entire system.
Let us know.
The other possibility is the MC piston isn't retracting quite far enough. The rod is too long. Easy way is make a small shim to fit between the MC and the booster. Thick Cardboard will work to try it, but something that won't compress over time is needed - metal, plastic etc.
The dealer should have checked for both possibilities rather than just putting on new brakes.
It's no wonder the country is falling apart - stupidity abounds!
Since I saw this thread resurrected, I thought I'd reply with my results.
It was a worn out lower Ball Joint. Once it was out, you could wiggle it around easy, and see why it was a problem. The mechanic couldn't tell, until he went to replace the tie rod ends and realized it wasn't them, but the ball joint that was bad.
Haven't had a DW issue since then.
I'm not gonna go over that......
Going back in tomorrow. Jeep has a shimmy at highway speeds. The service bulletin 19-003-06 involves installing a revised steering damper. I am driving to SC in a couple of weeks so I want everything checked out. This should be a warranty issue therefore no charge. I shouldn't be having any problems with a vehicle with 16,000 mi. on it. I would hate to compare my Jeep to my Honda I currently own or a Toyota I use to own.
Two rotor changes in 16,000 mi. is way out of the norm...for any vehicle. I am 60yr old and drive like it. so it is not because I abuse my jeep. Never off road and all maintenance done. I do not ride my brakes etc. Been driving standards all my life etc.
They are replacing the steering damper tomorrow. They had to order the parts. At least this time it is a warranty issue so no money out of my pocket. I took the service bulletin with me that discussed this issue and the fix.
I love this thread! It is my prob. exactly! I had a bare bones 2005 SE, went with Ruby springs/shocks/wheels/flares, (no stickers)and new 275-15 AT/Ta's. Looks great! But death wobble at the smallest pothole, RR tracks forget it. Thanks for the insight, I will try the suggestions.
I replaced the damper with the factory TSB replacement which was replaced by a different number. Still no fix. Went searching for the front track bar and found it above the axle, my yj didn't have one, and the zerk was never greased. Greased it. Still NG.
I grease my front end every 3k along with the oil and filter. Picked up a new track bar at the dealer for 107.00 and wil replace it when I get a free minute. Note, had the tires rotated and balanced again for good measure. Only 62k on the 04 and it must be the track bar, the yj had over 200k and still had the original front end w/o the DW.