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View Poll Results: Quick Disconnects or Currie Antirock?
Currie Antirock 68 69.39%
Quick Disconnects 30 30.61%
Voters: 98. You may not vote on this poll

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Old 12-01-2011, 10:25 AM   #61
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The SwayLOC is simple, well at least the manual lever version - IMO.

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Old 12-01-2011, 10:41 AM   #62
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Originally Posted by IslandTJ
The SwayLOC is simple, well at least the manual lever version - IMO.
I'm not knocking the SwayLOC, trust me, my job/life is complicated. But like Imped said, if it helps on road and off, and there isn't anything involved in switching, then I'm all for it. My driving conditions and your write-ups have convinced me to go with Tru-Trac's front and rear. I just haven't heard of many arguments that justify the price difference between the AR and the SwayLoc.

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Old 12-01-2011, 10:53 AM   #63
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I'm not knocking the SwayLOC, trust me, my job/life is complicated. But like Imped said, if it helps on road and off, and there isn't anything involved in switching, then I'm all for it. My driving conditions and your write-ups have convinced me to go with Tru-Trac's front and rear. I just haven't heard of many arguments that justify the price difference between the AR and the SwayLoc.
It is expensive, I find it difficult myself to justify the additional cost vs an AR. I have forgotten to switch the lever back to the firm setting after wheeling (in this scenario, it would be similar to driving with an AR) and honestly, it's not that bad or scary.

I also don't appreciate how ORO treated the original designer of the SwayLOC .
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Old 12-01-2011, 10:56 AM   #64
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My view on the SwayLoc--while it's certainly not complex, it's got more going on than the AR. I only accept more moving parts IF and ONLY IF the difference is worth it and it's just not. I wouldn't want a stiffer sway bar on the road, but then again my setup isn't exactly standard. I can understand the need for a stiffer bar on a looser, taller rig. From the one SwayLoc I've been around, it's noisier and the arms were constantly loose. The AR is dead nuts simple, works incredibly well, and doesn't make a peep. After checking out the SwayLoc, it just doesn't interest me at all but that's just my opinion.
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Old 12-01-2011, 11:04 AM   #65
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I also don't appreciate how ORO treated the original designer of the SwayLOC .
My one complaint about it (besides the price); I've never seen one in action though so I can't comment on it otherwise.
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Old 12-01-2011, 07:08 PM   #66
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I just haven't heard of many arguments that justify the price difference between the AR and the SwayLoc.
Especially since TJs handle just fine with the Antirock, even at its loosest setting like I run mine at, so long as your shocks aren't sloppy/soft/dead/defective.
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Old 12-02-2011, 05:30 PM   #67
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I've the teraflex quick discos for many years now, and I won't change them. It is a bit of extra work, you have to have a leveled stance to disconnect/connect, but altogether, they are simple to use. I rather have a on/off solution than a compromise. But that is only my personal preference.
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Old 12-02-2011, 05:34 PM   #68
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I've the teraflex quick discos for many years now, and I won't change them. It is a bit of extra work, you have to have a leveled stance to disconnect/connect, but altogether, they are simple to use. I rather have a on/off solution than a compromise. But that is only my personal preference.
What is the compromise?
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Old 12-02-2011, 05:58 PM   #69
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What is the compromise?
If you read the postings, there is a consensus that with the AR, there tends to be more of body roll. Some people don't mind, but I have driven jeeps with the AR on winding mountain roads, and I personally did not like the sensation. Maybe the AR were not set at their optimal setting, but in any case, it didn't feel as good as a with a stock sway bar. I 'm not knocking the AR down, it is just a question of personal preference.
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Old 12-02-2011, 06:02 PM   #70
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If you read the postings, there is a consensus that with the AR, there tends to be more of body roll. Some people don't mind, but I have driven jeeps with the AR on winding mountain roads, and I personally did not like the sensation. Maybe the AR were not set at their optimal setting, but in any case, it didn't feel as good as a with a stock sway bar.
actually the feeling i'm getting from the other posts is the AR performs fine on road as long as it and the rest of the suspension is set up correctly. it is my understanding that the disconnects are a compromise.
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Old 12-02-2011, 06:06 PM   #71
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If you read the postings, there is a consensus that with the AR, there tends to be more of body roll. Some people don't mind, but I have driven jeeps with the AR on winding mountain roads, and I personally did not like the sensation. Maybe the AR were not set at their optimal setting, but in any case, it didn't feel as good as a with a stock sway bar.
Lol, reading comprehension FTW right?

I think you need to go back through and read the postings. You'll notice that those who are making such claims as what you believe are those that have limited to no experience with the AR. Those of us who have real experience with the AR have already said multiple times (in multiple threads) that what you've said is not the case. I can assure you whatever "sensation" you felt was not because of the AR, but rather because of the suspension of the Jeep you were driving. If you were to drive my Jeep, you'd never know it had the AR based on how you think it makes a Jeep feel.
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Old 12-02-2011, 06:08 PM   #72
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actually the feeling i'm getting from the other posts is the AR performs fine on road as long as it and the rest of the suspension is set up correctly. it is my understanding that the disconnects are a compromise.
This ^
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Old 12-02-2011, 06:42 PM   #73
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I havent been able respond to the poll yet, but I picked mine up this week and will be installing tomorrow...

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Old 12-02-2011, 06:50 PM   #74
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If you read the postings, there is a consensus that with the AR, there tends to be more of body roll.
I gotta agree with others above that the only consensus about more body roll with an Antirock is from those who either don't have an Antirock or those whose suspensions has problems like worn out/sloppy shocks.
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Old 12-04-2011, 01:22 AM   #75
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I got R.C. 2.2 shocks. Theyre stiff as hell. I assume they will do fine with anti-rock.

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Old 12-05-2011, 11:35 AM   #76
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Currie Anti-Rock

Getting the Anti-Rock from Rusty's $289, should be here tomorrow. Got the same shocks as KidRock. Looking forward to not crawling to disco/hook-up. Will post with results from wheeling.
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Old 12-05-2011, 12:22 PM   #77
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Getting the Anti-Rock from Rusty's $289, should be here tomorrow. Got the same shocks as KidRock. Looking forward to not crawling to disco/hook-up. Will post with results from wheeling.
That seems like a great price. I did a quick search and the Rusty's page showed it fitting 97-00 TJs... Is that a typo? Any difference different TJ sway bar kits - that is news to me!
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Old 12-05-2011, 12:31 PM   #78
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There is no difference; I wouldn't put much faith in what you read over at Rusty's.
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Old 12-06-2011, 07:30 PM   #79
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Currie Anti-Rock

Just received the Currie Anti-Rock from Rusty's for $289 + shipping. Six days from order to my door. Seems Rusty's gets lots of bad reviews, but they won't get one from me. Good price and service.
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Old 12-06-2011, 07:44 PM   #80
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Their bad reviews don't come from the products they sell for other manufacturers. They come from the inferior products they "design" and sell, such as their control arms with flex joints.
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Old 12-06-2011, 08:29 PM   #81
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I got R.C. 2.2 shocks. Theyre stiff as hell. I assume they will do fine with anti-rock.

Long hair don't care.
Don't mistake a shock that provides an overly stiff, crappy ride to one that handles well.....the RC 2.2's provide as crappy of a ride as they do handling. My body roll is far less with Bilstein 5125's (outboard mounts) and the dampening is also much improved over the old 2.2's. High quality gas-charged shock vs. low quality non-charged shocks.
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Old 12-07-2011, 12:37 AM   #82
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Whoa whoa whoa. I didn't say they were quality. I just said they weren't worn out and spongy. When funds provide I'm switching my RC front coils with OME heavy duty and shocks with rs9000's
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Old 12-24-2011, 10:50 AM   #83
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Ive been doing a ton of research on the Currie sway bar & from what Ive been reading on reviews it seems like the ideal piece.BUT I dont 100% understand about how it does what it does and about the sway bar sys.Anyone have any good articles about this stuff.I want to fully understand it before I buy it & bolt it on.
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Old 12-24-2011, 10:52 AM   #84
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John Currie has a video on the Antirock on his website at Currie Enterprises - Custom Rearends, Jeep/Off-road Parts, Crate Rearends, 4x4 Rearends which gives a very good explanation of how it works.
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Old 12-24-2011, 11:13 AM   #85
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Ive been doing a ton of research on the Currie sway bar & from what Ive been reading on reviews it seems like the ideal piece.BUT I dont 100% understand about how it does what it does and about the sway bar sys.Anyone have any good articles about this stuff.I want to fully understand it before I buy it & bolt it on.
I have now had a few weeks of time w my new AR set up. I wanted to experience all driving terrains before commenting. I will say that I noted a bit more initial roll in turns, but it was minimal and I forgot about it by the 2nd time I drove it, it just was not a factor to me. I am on the loosest setting and have my shocks at the mid setting. I can see how someone w weak shocks might get more roll, but again that is not the AR. As far as everything else, it is great. I was most surprised at how much smoother the ride was on street and light trails, smoother than completely disconected. I will now complete the survey and list my discos for sale.
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Old 12-24-2011, 11:14 AM   #86
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...........I dont 100% understand about how it does what it does...........
I don't either and I have watched the Currie vid several times. I can tell you that it is one of the best mods for the money that I have spent on my heep. I was highly skeptical and loved my disconnects. Sometimes when all is confusing, you have to trust people like Jerry, Blaine, Stu and several others.
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Old 12-25-2011, 10:23 AM   #87
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I can see how someone w weak shocks might get more roll, but again that is not the AR.
I have read a lot of these shock comments, and I understand where (and who) this is coming from.

However, shocks do not and are not intended to limit body roll (that is the sway bar, and to some extent spring rates job). Their function is to control and slow suspension movement (including body roll). So during a quick maneuver you may get less roll dependent on shocks just because there was not time for the suspension to roll as much as it would w/out shocks slowing the motion. But under constant load like a long sweeping corner, an obstacle on a trail, or a high lateral load situation like hitting traction when sliding sideways the shocks will not limit body roll.

I'm not sure if I have explained this fully, but expecting stiff shocks to take the place of sway bar rate is at best a band aid. That said, the band aid may be enough to keep people happy.

I am in no way discouraging the anti-rock, mine is in the mail. Just like to discuss suspension principles.
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Old 12-25-2011, 10:47 AM   #88
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Ive been doing a ton of research on the Currie sway bar & from what Ive been reading on reviews it seems like the ideal piece.BUT I dont 100% understand about how it does what it does and about the sway bar sys.Anyone have any good articles about this stuff.I want to fully understand it before I buy it & bolt it on.
It's a simple torsion bar, just designed to fit the TJ dimensions. They are used in tons of applications, including all kinds of racing. It's a very simple design and isn't complex at all. A torsion bar is just a high quality, heat treated steel bar that can "spin" around its center axis. Obviously when you twist it, it wants to return to its neutral state. A sway bar positively influences the relationship between the frame and axle, hence the arms (connected to the sway bar at the frame end) and the links (connect arms to mounts on axle). With a solid axle, when one side droops the other side will tuck. With no sway bar, the tub/frame will want to torque over in that direction. A sway bar will simply be countering that action to attempt to keep the frame more neutral to the surface. When you run them on both ends, you'll receive the equal and opposite forces at both ends, which will work to maintain a level frame while the axles do what they want. The reason leaf spring vehicles don't need this is because the springs already have a built in lateral constraint (they are bolted to the axle housings) and have a built in return to neutral. Coil spring suspensions don't have this. Coils just hold the frame up over the axles but don't have any sort of locating element, hence the need for flexible sway bars.
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I have read a lot of these shock comments, and I understand where (and who) this is coming from.

However, shocks do not and are not intended to limit body roll (that is the sway bar, and to some extent spring rates job). Their function is to control and slow suspension movement (including body roll). So during a quick maneuver you may get less roll dependent on shocks just because there was not time for the suspension to roll as much as it would w/out shocks slowing the motion. But under constant load like a long sweeping corner, an obstacle on a trail, or a high lateral load situation like hitting traction when sliding sideways the shocks will not limit body roll.

I'm not sure if I have explained this fully, but expecting stiff shocks to take the place of sway bar rate is at best a band aid. That said, the band aid may be enough to keep people happy.

I am in no way discouraging the anti-rock, mine is in the mail. Just like to discuss suspension principles.
I agree to an extent. But you also can't argue with the fact that a gas charged shock, like a Bilstein 5100, adds spring rate at all times. My 5125's take quite a bit of force to compress. When I went from RC 2.2 shocks to Bilsteins about 2 years ago, I gained 1/4" in static ride height at all corners and noticed a marked improvement in cornering and "return to ride height" immediately. Coming down off ledges felt like landing on a pillow and I never experienced any bottoming out on the bump stops like I did with the 2.2's. The RC springs also have excessively light rates. Replacing them with heavier rate springs helped as well.
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Old 12-25-2011, 10:54 AM   #89
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Is there anything wrong with JKS Quicker Disconnects? I'm installing a modest 2" lift and was thinking about getting the quick disconnects. I thought that if I go with larger tires and a taller lift down the road, I could upgrade to the Currie AR or something similar.
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Old 12-25-2011, 11:11 AM   #90
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I have read a lot of these shock comments, and I understand where (and who) this is coming from.

However, shocks do not and are not intended to limit body roll (that is the sway bar, and to some extent spring rates job). Their function is to control and slow suspension movement (including body roll). So during a quick maneuver you may get less roll dependent on shocks just because there was not time for the suspension to roll as much as it would w/out shocks slowing the motion. But under constant load like a long sweeping corner, an obstacle on a trail, or a high lateral load situation like hitting traction when sliding sideways the shocks will not limit body roll.

I'm not sure if I have explained this fully, but expecting stiff shocks to take the place of sway bar rate is at best a band aid. That said, the band aid may be enough to keep people happy.

I am in no way discouraging the anti-rock, mine is in the mail. Just like to discuss suspension principles.
I am not sure I understand your 1st line about who and where this is coming from, but although there are many factors in a Jeepsng and how it handles in corners, my comment was simply addressing the people that are afraid that they will get a scary amount of roll with an AR. I still beleive that week or worn out shocks would add to that. I was implying nothing more or less.

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