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Old 02-23-2010, 11:19 PM   #1
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Any thoughts on Synthetic oils??

I'm considering swapping ALL of my oils for synthetic...like Royal Purple.

I've been doin some research on them lately and it seems that they reduce the parasitic power loss from the moving components better than old school dino oil. That and, they help reduce engine wear/tear.. and reduce breakage and wear in the differential housings.
So far it seems like a good idea all around.


anyone have any input on this?

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Old 02-23-2010, 11:34 PM   #2
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If it were me, I wouldn't waste my money to use Royal Purple (just my opinion), but when I replace all my fluids, I will be switching everything over to synthetic. I usually just stick with Mobil 1...pretty decent quality and won't break the bank.

I think synthetic oils tend to be affected by temperature less...so for instance, wear and tear on the engine on super cold mornings would be reduced a little. Probably not a huge difference...but every little bit helps.

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Old 02-23-2010, 11:37 PM   #3
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Yeah, I haven't checked out Mobil 1 yet (autozone in my town doesn't have it in yet)

I guess they're about the same...just different colour and price.
I kinda like the colouring idea since it'll help me know when i have to change out the oil in the engine...but that's not enough of a "cool idea" to make me shell out extra cash for the royal purple.
RP did come out with a new type of filtre though, that I may check into
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Old 02-23-2010, 11:49 PM   #4
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If your running conventional oil make sure you put in semisynthetic first then on the next oil change switch from semi to full synthetic. As far as what company makes the best oil...in my opinion valvoline if they use it on top dragsters doing over 200 mph down the quarter mile its good enough for me haha. When ever i do my oil change i use valvoline high mileage (i have 119000) on my yj) and a bosch filter. Best oil and filter to my understandings and research.
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Old 02-23-2010, 11:53 PM   #5
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As far as I know...most synthetic oils are designed to be able to be used without doing any transitioning to synthetic blends, etc. I think most are even designed so that they can be mixed right in with conventional oil...though I don't see why anyone would waste their money by doing that.

When running conventional oil, I prefer Valvoline over all else...but I think that's cuz I was a Mark Martin fan and he drove the Valvoline car. lmao
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Old 02-23-2010, 11:53 PM   #6
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Thanks for that advice on slowly "weening" my tj off of dino oil.

I didn't know it'd be bad to go straight from dino to synth.

I'm changing all of the oils in my tj to try and get rid of some of that parasitic power loss
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Old 02-23-2010, 11:54 PM   #7
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I'm gonna ask my dads old racing mechanic about some of the ones they used to use on my dad's rig to see what he recommends (but that was like 15 yrs ago)
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Old 02-24-2010, 04:51 AM   #8
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If you use your jeep for wheeling in mud that could enter water in the system. I wouldn't spend the money on syn oil.

If you use your jeep for a daily driver...then its worth it.

I sell Amsoil. I use it in my daily drivers and my tow rig. My offroad jeeps still use the cheap stuff though. My last trip out, I sunk my XJ in mud/swamp up to the doors. Rear axle got some water in there from a leaking shaft seal. Cost me $15 to change the diff fluid compared to about $40ish had I put Amsoil in there.

Amsoil shows for their engine oils a 25-35k mile usage life. Since I drive the car 30k per year, its one oil change per year for me. Saves me about $150 per year and 2-3 hours of my life when compared to dino oil.

Just some things to think about.
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Old 02-24-2010, 08:12 AM   #9
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My experience is that when you switch over from dino oil to synthetic, there seems to be more little leaks. Does anyone else agree with this?
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Old 02-24-2010, 08:56 AM   #10
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I bought a 2003 Sport in January and am going to change over to Royal Purple as well. I don't have any experience with RP with TJ's, but I have used it in my '71 Mustang for the last couple of years, and it honestly seems to make a big difference. The engine runs quite a bit smoother and it fires up like a charm even after sitting in storage for a month.
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Old 02-24-2010, 08:59 AM   #11
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My experience is that when you switch over from dino oil to synthetic, there seems to be more little leaks. Does anyone else agree with this?

Absolutely not...anyone who tells you this either had another issue with their particular application or they are trying to sway you from synthetics.


Someone else said it but if you are in deep mud and water often use conventional oils in the diffs, t case and trans. You will be needing to change these fluids out FAR more often than if it was strictly a pavement vehicle. Whoever said to "slowly ween" your engine by using a semi-syn first is pulling your chain. This is not only a lie, it is unnecessary.

The benefits of synthetics in diffs, trans cases, and transmissions are non-existant. I have read that using conventional in differentials produces LOWER temps than syn in diffs.

For an engine, synthetics offer a few advantages that you should be aware of, otherwise they will perform the same as a conventional. First, oils are rated and tested to perform according to their weight. A 10w-30 oil whether it is a syn, semi-syn, or conventional will perform the same...HOWEVER, in extreme cold synthetics flow better than conventional oils. The benefits of synthetics comes when EXTREME temps are introduced, such as low temps (10 degrees and below) and high temps such as a high PSI turbo application where shearing and oxidation could occur. Aside from extreme temperatures, synthetics tend to have stronger cleaning additives and can be used safely for extended drain intervals, provided you understand the limits of your oil and filter and you have analyzed your used oil to understand what is going on with it as your put on miles.

I use synthetics in my gears because I rarely (if ever) go into deep water and mud and I use synthetic in my engine for the cleaning attributes and the piece of mind that if needed, I could extend the drain interval. Even with synthetic I still change often, usually every 4k.
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Old 02-24-2010, 11:17 AM   #12
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To me, the "botique" synthetics like from Royal Purple, Amsoil, etc. are just overpriced oils that are no better than the synthetics you can buy from the major oil manufacturers like Valvoline, Havoline, Shell, Mobil, etc.

And except during the dead of winter days in uber-cold areas like North Dakota, Buffalo NY, etc., there's no need for synthetic motor oils. I'm firmly convinced their only real benefit is in extremely cold weather where they do indeed flow better.

Simply changing engine oil regularly is all that needs to be done to provide your engines outstanding protection from today's superb dino oils. I've yet to run synthetic motor oils in 45 years of driving and I've yet to have an engine failure. With 183,000 miles on my TJ's engine, it runs as well today on dino Valvoline as the day I bought it brand new back in '96.

The only two places I run synthetics are in the transmission and transfer case because they don't get changed regularly like the engine does. I don't run a synthetic in the axles because the major aftermarket axle manufacturers like Currie have convinced me they get better protection from dino gear lubes. Currie won't even warranty their axles if the customer has replaced the dino oil Currie installs with a synthetic gear lube.
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Old 02-24-2010, 08:46 PM   #13
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Ive been running castrol(cheap), now Im going with moble 1 fully synthetic. Thats what Ive always run in past cars.... the best
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Old 02-24-2010, 09:09 PM   #14
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My experience is that when you switch over from dino oil to synthetic, there seems to be more little leaks. Does anyone else agree with this?
i see multiple vehicles all day every day, and my opinion is with yours. also speaking to oil reps they have said the same, BUT, synthetic will not cause an oil leak, BUT synthetic's moleculor structure is finer or smaller than dino oil and more uniform. thus on a microscopic level a seal that is somewhat worn that isn't leaking yet from dino oil, may leak w/ synthetic.

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To me, the "botique" synthetics like from Royal Purple, Amsoil, etc. are just overpriced oils that are no better than the synthetics you can buy from the major oil manufacturers like Valvoline, Havoline, Shell, Mobil, etc.

And except during the dead of winter days in uber-cold areas like North Dakota, Buffalo NY, etc., there's no need for synthetic motor oils. I'm firmly convinced their only real benefit is in extremely cold weather where they do indeed flow better.

Simply changing engine oil regularly is all that needs to be done to provide your engines outstanding protection from today's superb dino oils. I've yet to run synthetic motor oils in 45 years of driving and I've yet to have an engine failure. With 183,000 miles on my TJ's engine, it runs as well today on dino Valvoline as the day I bought it brand new back in '96.

The only two places I run synthetics are in the transmission and transfer case because they don't get changed regularly like the engine does. I don't run a synthetic in the axles because the major aftermarket axle manufacturers like Currie have convinced me they get better protection from dino gear lubes. Currie won't even warranty their axles if the customer has replaced the dino oil Currie installs with a synthetic gear lube.
i agree w/ jerry all the way. to add to that and my previous statement, i run valvoline max life, designed for higher mileage engines. i have literally seen oil consumption and leaks be reduced in multiple vehicles of mine with it. i'll use my mj as an example, i put a bunch of work into it, rebuilt the top end completely, bottom end i did not. the bottom end had some leaks, after about a year of using max life there are no more oil leaks, i wouldn't believe it if i haven't seen it. and i've seen the same on previous xj's as well.
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Old 02-24-2010, 10:35 PM   #15
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The only down side to synthetics is price. There is not one advantage to dino oils over synsthetics. And as far as weening your engine from dinos, it is not needed, semi-sythetics are already syns & dinos mixed & are a total waste of money. Just switch & go. All synthetics are compatible with dino-oils. Also change intervals can be drastically.
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Old 02-24-2010, 11:28 PM   #16
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I agree that synthetics do flow better in colder weather, but the cost is what has made me never put them in my engine. There are two things you must remember with your engine oil. It is to lubricate the inner parts of the engine from wear and it is a medium to remove contaminants from where they are created and taken away by the oil in hopes that the oil filter will remove them. Some of the contaminants in the oil are dissolved into the oil and not even the best filter can remove all the dissolved contaminants. Over time your oil will become acidic and no filter will help that. Just change your oil and filter every 3000 miles in harsh driving conditions and you will be fine. My XJ had 247,000 on it and still ran great. 120-130 PSI cylinder compression and I have never used synthetic, but I change the oil every 3k-4k since 1995. I do run synthetic in my transmission, transfer case and both axles. Tranny also had 247,000 on it and still going. Synthetic does lubricate better on the molecular level due to the size of the molecules, but I will stick with a reputable standard dino oil.
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Old 02-24-2010, 11:50 PM   #17
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If you use your jeep for wheeling in mud that could enter water in the system. I wouldn't spend the money on syn oil.

I hope water doesn't enter the system!!!!
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Old 02-24-2010, 11:56 PM   #18
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If you use your jeep for wheeling in mud that could enter water in the system. I wouldn't spend the money on syn oil.

I hope water doesn't enter the system!!!!
It happens often while off-roading...not enough to hydrolock it or anything typically, but like your gear oils will often get mixed with water and depending on the transmission you have, your tranny fluid may also get large amounts of water in it, requiring an oil change after off-roading.

Essentially what they're saying is...when you off-road a lot, you are going to have to change your oil a lot more often. It's a waste of money to buy synthetic when you're changing your oil much sooner than you're "supposed to" anyway..
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Old 02-25-2010, 12:14 AM   #19
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Hey sentenced,
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Old 02-25-2010, 07:44 AM   #20
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This may sound dumb, seeing as you all said just switch to synthetic from dino no problem. Is this the same case scenario the other way around? Going to synthetic to dino? Thanks guys!
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Old 02-25-2010, 09:27 AM   #21
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Sure, syn may withstand much higher heat - but if your engine is generating that kind of heat you have major problems, it won't make it to the next oil change anyway.

They claim it's capable of longer oil change intervals - don't you think that's a way of justifying the higher cost?

The engine always has some blowby - gasses that blow past the rings. Water is a natural product of combustion - water along with some raw unburned gasoline sneak past the rings into the oil. That mixture causes acids to form. That acid eats your engine from the inside. No filter can remove it, it has to be drained out with an oil change. Syns do not/cannot stop the acid formations.

Don't believe it gets acidic? Ever splash oil used crankcase oil on your arm? Where did those welts come from? Get it in your eye it can blind you.

And - where do they find synthetic dinosours?
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Old 02-25-2010, 10:29 AM   #22
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There is not one advantage to dino oils over synsthetics.
There are a number of axle manufacturers who will beg to differ with you on that. As was already mentioned above, for one example, Currie will void the warranty on their axles if they come back for repair and they find the customer loaded it with a synthetic gear lube. Their warranty now requires the use of dino gear lube. The reason is that they were seeing some unusual failures on their extreme-use axles & they tracked it down to the use of synthetic gear lubes. Once their written warranty paperwork began requiring dino gear lubes in their axles, the unusual failure problem went away. In this type of extreme usage, dino gear lube has been found to actually protect the gears better.
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Old 02-25-2010, 07:47 PM   #23
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I know my factory service manual calls for synthetic gear lube for when the vehicle is used in towing things so it can't be that bad. It is a different oil weight, but still it is synthetic.
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Old 02-25-2010, 09:13 PM   #24
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There is not one advantage to dino oils over synsthetics. .
break ins also
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Old 02-26-2010, 09:20 AM   #25
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...but I think that's cuz I was a Mark Martin fan and he drove the Valvoline car. lmao
Ya, but then he ran the Viagra car hows that working out?

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Old 02-26-2010, 09:31 AM   #26
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Ya, but then he ran the Viagra car hows that working out?

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Old 02-26-2010, 11:06 AM   #27
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I tried Viagra in mine - only thing that happened was the clutch got stiffer.

I'm suing them. Ya know how the advertisements talk about 4 hours?
Bull!
They still owe me 3hrs 53 minutes.
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Old 02-26-2010, 08:29 PM   #28
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I use Schaeffer's oil in all my vehicles engines, and the drive train in my Jeep & pick-up. Yea, it cost more than conventional oil, but I feel it's worth it, about $5.30 a qt. In my Jeep it dropped the operating temp about 15 degrees, and added 5-7 lbs of oil pressure. Here in WY, on cold days it will take 3 plus miles to warm-up with cardboard blocking most of the radiator! Schaeffer's can be found by looking on the internet. I know some will cry "fowl" on this, but gas mileage went up 3-5%, engine noise went way down, and coasting distance also greatly improved.
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Old 02-26-2010, 09:05 PM   #29
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What is Schaeffer's oil? Conventional, synthetic, blend?

I've never heard of it...
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Old 02-27-2010, 12:41 AM   #30
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Sure, syn may withstand much higher heat - but if your engine is generating that kind of heat you have major problems, it won't make it to the next oil change anyway.

Just because your temp gauge is reading 210 degrees, that doesn't mean that the bottoms of your pistons and some other parts that contact your oil aren't quite a bit hotter.


They claim it's capable of longer oil change intervals - don't you think that's a way of justifying the higher cost?

Sure it is. That's part of how I help justify the cost to myself. Do I think manufacturers are lying to us and telling us it lasts longer when it really doesn't? Absolutely not.

The engine always has some blowby - gasses that blow past the rings. Water is a natural product of combustion - water along with some raw unburned gasoline sneak past the rings into the oil. That mixture causes acids to form. That acid eats your engine from the inside. No filter can remove it, it has to be drained out with an oil change. Syns do not/cannot stop the acid formations.

Don't believe it gets acidic? Ever splash oil used crankcase oil on your arm? Where did those welts come from? Get it in your eye it can blind you.

Yes, I've gotten used motor oil on my arms many times and it never caused any welts unless it was 200 degrees when it happened. I've never gotten it in my eye, but I have splashed it all down the front of me, soaking some of my more sensitive parts, and it didn't hurt those, either.


And - where do they find synthetic dinosours?

I'm going to assume this was a joke.
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