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Old 03-26-2012, 08:15 PM   #31
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They are fat and cost 4x a ford 8.8. And you still need to lock and gear. You can lock gear and set up a front and rear axle for the price of doing one d60 and have $ left.


Obviously if your going 4x tires d60s wouldn't be a bad choice. But for 35/37s or so I don't think they are the best option.

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Old 03-26-2012, 08:28 PM   #32
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The only cheap 60 is full width. If I am going full width then I'm going with a ford 10.25" rear and a hp60 front .

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Old 03-26-2012, 08:29 PM   #33
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I'm assuming because they done want the added width.
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Old 03-26-2012, 08:42 PM   #34
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I keep hearing about an sye and how important it is when you put a lift on a jeep. Would I need it for a d44/8.8? It's probably a stupid question but I don't know too much about axels and differentials etc...well, not yet anyway
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Old 03-26-2012, 08:48 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DeepSouthJeeper
I keep hearing about an sye and how important it is when you put a lift on a jeep. Would I need it for a d44/8.8? It's probably a stupid question but I don't know too much about axels and differentials etc...well, not yet anyway
I have read that it's suggested because of the offset of the 8.8. The sye/cv is really because the stock fixed yoke is long and the stock shafts joints don't handle y'all angles seen with a lift very well.
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Old 03-26-2012, 08:51 PM   #36
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So it'd be a good idea, but not really necessary unless I lift it or get the 8.8? What about the d44? Thanks for all the help guys!
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Old 03-26-2012, 08:56 PM   #37
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Lots of jeeps run a stock d44 so I don't see an issue.
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Old 03-26-2012, 09:09 PM   #38
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Just food for thought...
A locker doesn't always mean that you will break anything easier. Driving/wheeling style isa big factor of parts failure. I think I would rather have a smaller axle (ex.d30) locked vs. unlocked.
Locker = more power to the ground = less wheel spin....obvious outcome is better traction with less stress on parts.

Spinning wheels and bouncing of obstacles to try and get traction with an open locker is harder on your jeep than a controlled climb with a locked differential regardless of size...d30 d35 d44 8.8..whatever.


Just something to think about when deciding to run locked or unlocked on a smaller less desirable differential.
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Old 03-26-2012, 09:12 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KBR97
Just food for thought...
A locker doesn't always mean that you will break anything easier. Driving/wheeling style is the main factor of parts failure. I think I rather have a smaller axle locked vs. unlocked.
Locker = more power to the ground = less wheel spin.

Spinning wheels and bouncing of obstacles to try and get traction with an open locker is harder on your jeep than a controlled climb with a locked differential.
I agree. But you are putting more strain on the shafts with a locker then with an open diff during normal driving. Driving carelessly and bouncing around like you mentioned is not the correct way to wheel and is rarely the answer to overcoming an obstacle. So I agree with you 100% there.
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Old 03-26-2012, 09:17 PM   #40
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Originally Posted by GoldenSahara00 View Post
I agree. But you are putting more strain on the shafts with a locker then with an open diff during normal driving. Driving carelessly and bouncing around like you mentioned is not the correct way to wheel and is rarely the answer to overcoming an obstacle. So I agree with you 100% there.
In normal driving conditions the locker wouldn't be engaged though. So why would it be an issue. Only time when it should be putting any stress is when its locked.

For a smaller diff I would probably just throw some chromo axles and a locker. Thats what I plan to do whenever I come across a deal on a HP30. Thats why I mentioned it.
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Old 03-26-2012, 09:20 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KBR97

In normal driving conditions the locker wouldn't be engaged though. So why would it be an issue. Only time when it should be putting any stress is when its locked.

For a smaller diff I would probably just throw some chromo axles and a locker. Thats what I plan to do whenever I come across a deal on a HP30. Thats why I mentioned it.
That's what I plan to do as well. And are we talking selectable or an auto locker? What I'm saying is with an open diff when you lose traction to one tire the opposite tire is getting the same amount of power as the one with less traction. No big deal. But with a locker the power is constant so instead of that power being shared equally it's not through one shaft and into one tire, more than is possible with an open diff. This puts more torque into the shaft. At least this is how I understand it. So that's the reason why a locker can cause a shaft to break when an open diff could not.
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Old 03-26-2012, 09:22 PM   #42
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I wish I had the cash to upgrade to a super d35/d44/8.8 with a 2 in. lift and 32 in. Rims. But I don't have any spare cash after the cost of the jeep. I guess I better start saving
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Old 03-26-2012, 09:24 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DeepSouthJeeper
I wish I had the cash to upgrade to a super d35/d44/8.8 with a 2 in. lift and 32 in. Rims. But I don't have any spare cash after the cost of the jeep. I guess I better start saving
If you have 32 inch rims those must be some real big tires
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Old 03-26-2012, 09:27 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GoldenSahara00

If you have 32 inch rims those must be some real big tires
Lol I WANT the 32s. I have like 28 in right now. I got the jeep from an older guy who barley drove it and kept it stock, but it's in PERFECT condition for a 2006 car. I just got the car last week so it's still stock.
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Old 03-26-2012, 09:28 PM   #45
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i moved from the d35s to the 44s only cuz i killed my rear axle shortly after liftig my jeep 37s may of been a little big for the d35 though
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Old 03-26-2012, 09:28 PM   #46
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In the front I was considering an auto. Should be cheaper, easier install. And should only be locking when 4wd is engaged. Other than that the axles should be spinning freely....right?
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Old 03-26-2012, 09:29 PM   #47
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I was just picking cause you said rims but meant tires. But yeah I remember 28s... Good times. Gas mileage was good. I wasn't obsessed with mods.
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Old 03-26-2012, 09:36 PM   #48
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I'm in the same boat I can't decide what I want to do I can't find a d44 for a good price and I got a headache from looking at all the things I have to do for a 8.8 swap I think im going to go super 35 kit it's straight forward and I'm only running 32s with mild to medium wheeling it's my dd
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Old 03-26-2012, 09:39 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KBR97
In the front I was considering an auto. Should be cheaper, easier install. And should only be locking when 4wd is engaged. Other than that the axles should be spinning freely....right?
You are correct. Detroit Locker is an auto and is overkill for the front. Aussie or Spartan is the way to go in the front.
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Old 03-26-2012, 09:39 PM   #50
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Oh lol ok. Man I'd love to have a rubicon. Don't they come stock with around 32 in tires?
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Old 03-26-2012, 09:48 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KBR97
In the front I was considering an auto. Should be cheaper, easier install. And should only be locking when 4wd is engaged. Other than that the axles should be spinning freely....right?
Yep. I just installed my Aussie up front and will be putting it in my hp30 later on. But yeah I was reading up on it and learned that which made a lot of sense. Like of your climbing a rock with one tire having a lot more traction it will lock up and cause more torque on that side shaft. I mean technically it's always locked but you don't have any power through the front driveshaft because it just free spins. So I 2wd your not going any harder on it. Just wheeling. And like you said doing stupid things and being heavy on the gas causes a lot more force than slow steady and smart. You watch vids of guys blowing rings or snapping shafts and 95% are doing something stupid.
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Old 03-26-2012, 10:00 PM   #52
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Originally Posted by DeepSouthJeeper
Oh lol ok. Man I'd love to have a rubicon. Don't they come stock with around 32 in tires?
I believe the Tj came with 31s on the rubi. And they are nice but if you plan on building a lot your better off with a non rubi and add what you want with the $ you save. IMO.


Quote:
Originally Posted by TjWranglerMan
I'm in the same boat I can't decide what I want to do I can't find a d44 for a good price and I got a headache from looking at all the things I have to do for a 8.8 swap I think im going to go super 35 kit it's straight forward and I'm only running 32s with mild to medium wheeling it's my dd
That's a good choice for you and nick^ runs that and loves it. I would run up to 35s on it without a worry.
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Old 03-26-2012, 10:04 PM   #53
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Yeah c clips aren't a weakness. Just an issue if you break a shaft. And as I mentioned I don't plan on breaking one.
Of course you don't plan on it. Who does?
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Old 03-26-2012, 10:18 PM   #54
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Originally Posted by Sherpa

Of course you don't plan on it. Who does?
True that

But Indy had pointed out how I probably won't even break the stock shafts of an 8.8 on 37s and I said I was going to be running upgraded shafts nevertheless. So it would be pretty tough to break one aka why I said that. And if I am good enough to break one then I'll just pat myself on the back
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Old 03-26-2012, 10:30 PM   #55
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Originally Posted by GoldenSahara00

True that

But Indy had pointed out how I probably won't even break the stock shafts of an 8.8 on 37s and I said I was going to be running upgraded shafts nevertheless. So it would be pretty tough to break one aka why I said that. And if I am good enough to break one then I'll just pat myself on the back
Axle questions are always fun. I have people telling me I need to truss and replace the axle shafts on my Rockwell's. I keep telling them, "Just because you are stupid and broke a Rockwell doesn't mean I have to spend another grand."
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Old 03-26-2012, 10:47 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nick50471

Axle questions are always fun. I have people telling me I need to truss and replace the axle shafts on my Rockwell's. I keep telling them, "Just because you are stupid and broke a Rockwell doesn't mean I have to spend another grand."
Exactly...

Chromo's? Try a spare set of axle shafts for $35!
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Old 03-27-2012, 06:16 AM   #57
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Guys I understand. $35 shafts and a quick replacement is a lot better sounding than spending a grand, but if I have the money I might as well do it, I might end up beefing her up a little bit more. Who Knows. I'm not telling anyone else they need it just saying its what I'm going to do. I like to overbuild.
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Old 03-27-2012, 06:41 AM   #58
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Lock the front, leave the rear open, throw some 32's on it, control the urge to smash the skinny pedal, and you'll be just fine on the d35 for a while. Know how I know, cause I've been doing it. Trail rides, mud rides, rock crawling, and running the highway. All on some heavy @$$ 32" Super Swamper TSL's.

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Old 03-27-2012, 06:44 AM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GoldenSahara00
Guys I understand. $35 shafts and a quick replacement is a lot better sounding than spending a grand, but if I have the money I might as well do it, I might end up beefing her up a little bit more. Who Knows. I'm not telling anyone else they need it just saying its what I'm going to do. I like to overbuild.
I couldn't agree more . A broken shaft is a good way to rune a day. I broke to many stock shafts back when I ran broncos to ever do that again. In my area we have a lot of rutted up sand hills that take forward momentum and tire speed to climb, so you need to be heavier on the skinny pedal. Slow crawling in loose sand will land you on your diffs. I think people sometimes forget that others don't necessarily wheel in the same terrain they do.
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Old 03-27-2012, 09:23 AM   #60
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Just reading along trying to apply everything to my situation and I feel like the easiest thing for me to do is to just throw it out there.

I'm running an 05 TJ, 4.0L auto, with stock D30/35 (3.73), and currently have 33's. I'm not in a place to swap axles but I am wary of putting money into my 30/35.

Asking advice is usually a game of waiting for the answer you wanted to hear. The answer I have liked so far is essentially the run-it-til-it-breaks tactic. I'd love to have a locked front for that extra grab and climb. What locker do I use and what should I expect to pay for it (and installation if I can't figure it out or don't have the tools)?

Gears. What to do about that. 3.73 with 33's, am I okay with this? I'm okay with being a relatively conservative wheeler for now.

Ultimately I'll save up for something like the 8.8/44 upgrade with 4.88/5.13 and 35" tires. Of course, that's upwards of $6000 right there! Better get a bigger piggy bank.....

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