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Old 09-25-2011, 09:27 PM   #1
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Axle gear change question!?

I have a 2003 2.4L, 5 spd, it has 4.11 gear ratio. and in the near future i plan of getting 33's for it. i am thinking ( correct me if im wrong) 4.88 would bring it back to factory settings. But i was wondering if anyone has changed them out by themselves. .or is it just smarter to have a shop do it. I live on a farm so im pretty handy with the tools i have. but is there any special tools needed also. . any advice would be great.
Thanks!

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Old 09-25-2011, 09:38 PM   #2
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You have a 5 speed manual? If so, yes I think you'd be happy with 4.88s. I'd recommend you have a professional regear it. We did the math for my buddy's regear and it is only going to cost him $200 more to have the pros do it vs him buying the parts and us doing the labor. It was a no-brainer for him.

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Old 09-25-2011, 09:48 PM   #3
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You didn't mention your current tire size but with this you should be able to figure it out in no time. Try to match the RPMs as close as possible with your current wheels and gears to your new ones.

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Old 09-25-2011, 09:55 PM   #4
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The 4cyl and 5 speed 4.88s will be perfect for 33" tires

Its very labor intensive, needs special tools, and an extreme amount of precision. Most people let the professionals handle it.
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Old 09-26-2011, 11:24 AM   #5
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I am going to do my D30 myself, but ONLY because I have a good friend with all the proper tools. To buy them is prohibitively expensive, as stated above. There's a great article on this at www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Gear_Setup/ ...
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Old 09-26-2011, 11:43 AM   #6
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Going from 4.11 to 4.88 is not that much of a change.
What size tire do you have now. How does it drive.
I'd say try it with the 33's as is before a regear.
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Old 09-26-2011, 12:11 PM   #7
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Going from 4.11 to 4.88 is not that much of a change.
What size tire do you have now. How does it drive.
I'd say try it with the 33's as is before a regear.

I have duratrecs 31" i can use 5th gear untill im in a head wind, or going up a long incline. i can still drive on the highway doing 65 with the shift from 5th to 4th every so often, but from what i hear from others that have changed, they say they have trouble getting to 60.
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Old 09-26-2011, 01:14 PM   #8
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... what i hear from others that have changed, they say they have trouble getting to 60.
Other people say a lot of things. It costs you nothing to try it first, might save you the cost of the regear.

I'll agee with the majority, let the pro's tackle this one. It's a time consuming setup.
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Old 09-26-2011, 04:15 PM   #9
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if he is limited already with 31's what do you honestly think is gonna happen when he steps up to 33's? sure swapping the tires and taking a spin is free but, in the end you already know what is gonna happen.
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Old 09-26-2011, 04:38 PM   #10
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I run 33's on 4.10 gearing, with a 5 spd and 4.0L
While theres a deffinent loss of power, its not that much to justify a regear for me.
I dont bother trying to use 5th gear unless its completely flat ground...but i dont do alot of highway driving, so it works for me.

If your on the highway alot, itd probably be a bigger issue

The PO got it geared to 4.10 cause it used to have the auto trans. Then he did a swap to a manual, but didnt regear
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Old 09-26-2011, 07:58 PM   #11
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while it may be "OK" with a 4.0 , the 4 cylinder will be struggling even more. 4.88's will keep his rpms in the engines power range instead of lugging and constantly having to downshift.
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Old 09-26-2011, 10:20 PM   #12
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while it may be "OK" with a 4.0 , the 4 cylinder will be struggling even more. 4.88's will keep his rpms in the engines power range instead of lugging and constantly having to downshift.
No doubt. Just wanted to let OP know its not necessary to regear, cause i daily drive without it.
Not at all saying he shouldnt, just saying its possible to get away without it
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Old 09-27-2011, 02:08 PM   #13
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That's the point, it's possible, and may be accepatable. If he does not need it, that's saving a chunk of change.
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Old 09-27-2011, 03:49 PM   #14
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yeah i will probably go to a 32 with out changing my gears when i get my new lift. my work makes me drive to different office stores in a 40 mile area so i do a lot of highway driving. so i just thought the upgrade in gears would help out.
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Old 09-27-2011, 03:57 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeeperharmon
yeah i will probably go to a 32 with out changing my gears when i get my new lift. my work makes me drive to different office stores in a 40 mile area so i do a lot of highway driving. so i just thought the upgrade in gears would help out.
Going from 4.11 to 4.88 would definitely help out. You could even run a 33 provided you could clear it. Its a little different, but going from 3.73 to 4.56 with my 4.0L 5 speed and 33" tires made a world of difference. I also now have a discusting crawl ratio for a non Rubicon now too, its awesome
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Old 09-28-2011, 12:22 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by InvertChaos View Post
Going from 4.11 to 4.88 would definitely help out. You could even run a 33 provided you could clear it. Its a little different, but going from 3.73 to 4.56 with my 4.0L 5 speed and 33" tires made a world of difference. I also now have a discusting crawl ratio for a non Rubicon now too, its awesome


What lift do you have, i saw that it says the 2.25 with 1" bl. thats what i want to run. and i have the 31" duratrecs right now.



EDIT!! ( i see that it says RC, how do u like that lift. i thought about going to the 2.5 with the .75" spaces for the 3.25, or should i just get the 3.75" lift with the 2.5 coils and the 1.25 bl
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Old 09-28-2011, 05:12 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeeperharmon

What lift do you have, i saw that it says the 2.25 with 1" bl. thats what i want to run. and i have the 31" duratrecs right now.

EDIT!! ( i see that it says RC, how do u like that lift. i thought about going to the 2.5 with the .75" spaces for the 3.25, or should i just get the 3.75" lift with the 2.5 coils and the 1.25 bl
Yeah I have the 3.75" kit. I really like the look, it fits 33s nicely, and it's cheap. However the shocks are terrible. After 8 months I have OME shocks in the mail to replace them. Also I had some issues with the tcase shifter linkage after the body lift. Finally, its not a complete kit. You still have to buy a track bar relocation bracket and extended bumpstops. Other than that, its been a good little kit with pretty good flex. If I had to do it over again I would have saved a little more and pieced my own kit together using OME shocks and 2.5" springs, and a jks body lift for the same effect.
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Old 09-28-2011, 02:30 PM   #18
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I am thinking about the 3.25 inch lift. I have 1.75" coil spacers. And it comes with .75" so I can lvl it if needed. And it has the relocation bracket. And looks like control arms too.( but is all that extra stuff needed besides the bracket).
So then I could get the 1-1.25" bl and a 1" mml... instead of the transfer case drop( people don't like the transfer case drop) and the front adjustable control arm. What do u guys think

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