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Old 10-18-2013, 01:20 PM
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BAD Wheel Bearing help

Front passengers side wheel bearing is gone (i think). It makes noise and when the wheel is in the air the tire has play vertical play (push on the top of the tire it has a small amount of move).

Can i just change the wheel bearing or should i change the hub assembly?

I would like to do this tonight if i could.
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Old 10-18-2013, 01:23 PM   #2
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the hub and bearing are one unit "unit bearing" is what it is called.

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Old 10-18-2013, 01:23 PM
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I get the idea the front is just the assembly and that the hole thing has to be changed.

I see rear bearing but only front assemblies.
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Old 10-18-2013, 01:26 PM   #4
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that is correct, not really that hard, but you will need the large axle nut socket. Timken are probably your best bet for replacement.
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Old 10-18-2013, 01:47 PM
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36mm for the socket?
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Old 10-18-2013, 02:03 PM   #6
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Yep
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Old 10-18-2013, 02:14 PM   #7
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If you do not have the metric a 1-7/16" six point will work too.
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Old 10-18-2013, 02:18 PM   #8
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Extremely easy to change but can only be changed as one unit...6 bolts total to get it off (not including the tire)..If your's is seized like mine was...put all 3 hub bolts back in...tighten a little (not tight, just a couple of threads in) and put a socket on the bolt head and beat it..will probably destroy the socket....I have had to do that multiple times...36mm Axle nut..10mm Brake Caliper...13mm 12-point for the hub bearing bolts
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Old 10-18-2013, 03:30 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turbostixxx View Post
Extremely easy to change but can only be changed as one unit...6 bolts total to get it off (not including the tire)..If your's is seized like mine was...put all 3 hub bolts back in...tighten a little (not tight, just a couple of threads in) and put a socket on the bolt head and beat it..will probably destroy the socket....I have had to do that multiple times...36mm Axle nut..10mm Brake Caliper...13mm 12-point for the hub bearing bolts
There is a very simple trick to removing seized unit bearings.

Unit Bearing - 1

Also the axle shaft nut needs to be torqued to 200 ft/lbs and that's a pretty critical value to obtain proper bearing preload.
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Old 10-18-2013, 04:07 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freeskier View Post
There is a very simple trick to removing seized unit bearings.

Unit Bearing - 1

Also the axle shaft nut needs to be torqued to 200 ft/lbs and that's a pretty critical value to obtain proper bearing preload.
ALSO a good trick
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Old 10-18-2013, 10:15 PM   #11
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I have always used a puller and PB blaster. I have also heard to take a old brake rotor and put it on backwards with the lug nuts. Then hit it with a BFH..
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Old 10-18-2013, 10:17 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeeper4life View Post
I have always used a puller and PB blaster. I have also heard to take a old brake rotor and put it on backwards with the lug nuts. Then hit it with a BFH..
I also use another trick, but its hard to type out
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Old 10-19-2013, 07:45 AM   #13
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I also used a bearing puller--had to get one last winter to get a pulley off of my snow-blower, and what they had at HF came in a set of 3 different sizes. I figured I'd never have a use for the other 2, but then I had the bright idea of trying to replace the axle u-joints myself.

after breaking 2 screwdrivers that I used for stops in the rotor vents so I could turn the 36mm axle nut, (which required me, 220lbs, jumping up and down on a 1.5foot long breaker bar), rounding over one of the hub bolts on the back, I finally got all of the fasteners off. I don't think this hub actually needs any fasteners; the rust seems to hold it in place just fine.

Anyway...yeah, I put the hub bolts back in only part way, and used the bfh to pound them...still nothing. So then I remembered the hub puller--put that on, and while it wasn't enough by itself, I was able to alternate between pounding the bolts, then putting more tension on the puller, and it finally popped off.

Then I couldn't get the u-joint out of the axle shaft.

not to mention, I had already given up on the other side, where one of the hub-bolts is rounded over so bad, its going to have to have a hex nut welded to it, which, of course, I can't do.

The link posted above w/ the hub-trick--that has the explanation in it, which I hadn't noticed before, but it is the biggest lesson, here:
"...not a big deal, here in Arizona". a HA!
Don't take advise on how "easy" some repair is from anyone who lives in a place that hasn't seen a drop of rain since the Carter administration.

"Sure," they said. "No problem. It'll be easy," they said.
yeah, right!!
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Old 10-20-2013, 10:33 AM   #14
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+1 on the Arizona comment. I live in phoenix and I can't find a spot of rust anywhere on my 05' TJ. I've done body lift all 4 shocks springs control arms, both driveshafts, motor mounts tranny mount, front unit bearings and never had a frozen bolt or a bolt break or round off.
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Old 10-20-2013, 11:24 AM   #15
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You may need a gear puller, I did
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Old 10-20-2013, 01:02 PM   #16
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Seriously people, work smarter not harder. Don't fart with any of these other "tricks". Go to Home Depot, buy the correct nut/bolt for a couple bucks, stick it between the shaft ear and inner C, crank the steering wheel and out pops the unit bearing. Literally takes less than a minute.
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Old 10-20-2013, 05:37 PM   #17
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I thought jeeps leaked so all the fasteners were pre-lubed? I know mine is.

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