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Old 11-07-2010, 06:50 PM   #1
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Thumbs up Beefed the rear driveshaft up

The aftermarket rear CV driveshaft in my Rubicon started making some noise recently that didn't sound good. After determining its u-joints and CV joint all seemed ok, I figured out that it was caused by the extra steep angle at the CV caused by the recent installation of a used belly-up skidplate. The bellyup raised the t-case approx. 2.5" which is when the drivetrain started getting noisy from the steeper angle at the CV. The angle at the CV didn't look all that steep but the existing driveshaft apparently didn't like it.

I emailed driveshaft guru Tom Wood for his advice and he immediately replied with his well-known outstanding support. The first of two options Tom presented involved a pure 1330-based CV driveshaft with 1330's at both ends. The second option having a 1330 at the rear and two larger 1350 u-joints in the CV, a beefier CV joint, and a new front flange mount. The new front flange also created a bit more room so the driveshaft could be a tad longer which helps with the angles. I couldn't resist the stronger option so I went with Tom's "hardcore" 1350 version. I also requested Tom build it with all sealed u-joints which he readily agreed to.

The new driveshaft arrived and I immediately noticed how much heavier it was even before excitedly opening the box.




When compared to my old 1330 driveshaft side-by-side, the awesomeness of the new 1350/1330 driveshaft is readily apparent.



Weight-wise, the new driveshaft was nearly 25% heavier at 20.6 lbs. vs 16.0 lbs.. The larger CV and larger DS diameter is responsible for that.

All in all, I'm pretty stoked to have a Tom Wood driveshaft again now that I have replaced my stolen '97 TJ with the '04 Rubicon Jeep... especially that it looks pretty bombproof. The last time I wheeled my '97 TJ with its 1310 based rear CV driveshaft, I managed to break it at its yoke and rear u-joint. Because of the way things broke, which also went beyond just the driveshaft with a ripped off control arm mount, broken control arm bolt and a broken wheel, I had to make one driveshaft out of two bad ones to get home the next day.

Here's the new shaft installled...


The old shaft...


So now the old DS has become a spare for the unlikely event I manage to break this one... which sure doesn't seem very likely. Thanks Tom, I am stoked with the new DS and just how fast you got it to me!

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Old 11-07-2010, 06:57 PM   #2
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Looks great. I wish he would of built mine like that the second time when I blew mine up after only having it in the truck for 8 months.

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Old 11-08-2010, 04:53 PM   #3
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That thing is a beast compared to stock
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Old 11-08-2010, 05:08 PM   #4
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Funny that you started this thread. I just finished reinforcing my rear DS. rock solid baby. lets hope I have a catastrophic DS failure this weekend and get to test the tensile strength of that pink nail file
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Old 11-08-2010, 05:15 PM   #5
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Funny that you started this thread. I just finished reinforcing my rear DS. rock solid baby. lets hope I have a catastrophic DS failure this weekend and get to test the tensile strength of that pink nail file
Tom Woods has nothin on that
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Old 11-08-2010, 05:20 PM   #6
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Really good info, Jerry. Coincidentally, I am going to be installing my Rokmen belly-up skid just as soon as it comes off back order (supposed to be this month), and I've been thinking about what to install for a new drive shaft. I think I know now. Be sure to keep us posted if any issues crop up, but it looks bullet proof, particularly the side by side pics.
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Old 11-08-2010, 05:21 PM   #7
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Hows the nail file gonna help
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Old 11-08-2010, 05:22 PM   #8
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Jerry.....? Is that blood splatter by the e-brake cable?? Running over zombies?
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Old 11-08-2010, 06:00 PM   #9
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Hows the nail file gonna help
Its a known fact that the "pink" nail files are made from one of the strongest substances found, and they have great flexability. However, I do think he chose the wrong tape to hold it all together.
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Old 11-08-2010, 06:22 PM   #10
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Jerry.....? Is that blood splatter by the e-brake cable?? Running over zombies?
That looks like grease from a well maintained non-sealed u-joint in the original shaft. You can tell Jerry's deff. doing his maintance rituals. hehe

Hey jerry, how did you get into the ujoints to grease them withough having to take the shaft out (for those of us who didn't get sealed u-joints), and with the TW shaft what did you replace the output yoke with at the t-case?
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Old 11-08-2010, 07:59 PM   #11
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That looks like grease from a well maintained non-sealed u-joint in the original shaft.
That's what they tried to tell me about Roswell. I know zombie brain matter when I see it!

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Old 11-08-2010, 09:27 PM   #12
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I assume Jerry knows, but for anyone else taking the balancer off the back of a Rubi transfer case, make sure your speed tone ring stays in place and the little pin behind it stays put. If it comes out and gets put back in wrong, it can cause run out that causes vibrations.

I chased this for a long time on my last Rubi. Here are pictures from someone else that I found online.

http://www.thedragonsden.net/jeep/241/
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Old 11-09-2010, 10:42 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by KeeblerKO View Post
Jerry.....? Is that blood splatter by the e-brake cable?? Running over zombies?
That's red grease from greasing the u-joints. Yeah it makes a mess on the underside since I don't try all that hard to get all the excess grease off. I wipe it off best I can but there's always enough to sling out while driving. Personally, I don't like or use greasable u-joints, the previous owner had that driveshaft built which included greasable u-joints. Only if I did a lot of deep mud would I want greasable u-joints. I mean, heck, look what it did to my muffler.

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Originally Posted by EdJonesJeeper View Post
That looks like grease from a well maintained non-sealed u-joint in the original shaft. You can tell Jerry's deff. doing his maintance rituals. hehe

Hey jerry, how did you get into the ujoints to grease them withough having to take the shaft out (for those of us who didn't get sealed u-joints), and with the TW shaft what did you replace the output yoke with at the t-case?
I've had two driveshafts with greasable u-joints Ed and you just can't get to all four zerks without at least unbolting it from one end. I usually removed the entire driveshaft to make it easier to grease properly, and so I could also move the CV and rear u-joint around to feel for any wear problems. I discovered a bad CV I didn't know I had that way a few years ago. I had to replace the t-case output yoke with a flange which Tom provided to match the 1350 size CV.

One more nice thing about the new DS with sealed u-joints... 3 less zerks to grease!

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