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Old 07-27-2011, 02:38 PM   #1
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Beginning - Monstaliner and Dash Paint

OK... I pulled the trigger and ordered a gallon of Monstaliner a few minutes ago after seeing others do their Jeeps. Been thinking on it for some time and have had enough of the carpet rotting the floor. I'm not the original owner.

I'm also going to paint the dash and door panels. Everything is going black (the Jeep, not my vision).

Pulled the carpets today and dismantled the dash. What you see is how much I'm pulling off the dash. I'm not going to screw with the rest. It'll be masking for what I don't want painted.

Still have to pull the seats and fix that hole you see in the driver's floorboard. Luckily, the other rust seems to be surface rust and still solid metal beneath. I also have to convert the metal drain plugs (the large ones) to rubber plugs.

There's going to be a lot of prep work before I get started and this is going to be a total outside project, as I have no garage.

I can only hope to have it finished a couple of days after the Monstaliner arrives. That should give me a few days to get the prep work done.

Say a prayer that I don't make a friggin' mess of it all.
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Old 07-27-2011, 03:33 PM   #2
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Can't wait to see how it turns out. Good luck and have fun.

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Old 07-27-2011, 06:54 PM   #3
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Good luck and take some pics during the process!
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Old 07-29-2011, 01:09 PM   #4
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After spending all day yesterday working on the floor pans to get rid of the rust and bondo the rotted spot, my LED dash lights arrived (Yay! Red!).

Oh yeah, 2 hours of the day spent getting those G.D. torx bolts out so I could remove the seats. Took a breaker bar with a 3 foot pipe to break those SOB's loose!

This morning I decided to get started on painting the dash and get it put back together before the Monstaliner arrives. I still have a lot of prep work to do on the floor and other areas, but at least the dash will be out of the way.

The poor man's painting prep (wish I had a garage to store the hard top for awhile) and the results with masking removed. Seems I'll be needing to get the rubber spray for the grab handle. It is tacky, as other people have said it would be when you paint it.

Now it's off to paint the rest of the dash parts.
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Old 07-29-2011, 02:34 PM   #5
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Looking good so far! Your paint prep is awesome...LOL

And yes, the PlastiDip spray is holding up great on my grab handle. I'm thinking you can pull that off without removing the airbag cover. I think there's a couple screws on the bottom holding it (and the glove box latch and strap). If there's no screws, then there's just 2 nuts on the inside where the handle butts up against the dash. I think they're 10mm, but don't quote me on that. They're really easy to access, just gotta wrench on em backwards so it's a tad awkward. Well actually you'll need a socket cuz they're kinda recessed. If you reach up there you'll feel em.

I'd recommend removing the handle, stripping the paint off it all, and then spraying the PlastiDip on it...it may work fine without but since the paint isn't properly drying, you could end up with adhesion problems. I only stripped the paint off the handle itself...not the plastic of the piece it's attached to. That was perfectly dry so I just painted right over it.

Anyway, can't wait to see the end result...bet you'll be amazed!
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Old 07-29-2011, 02:49 PM   #6
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When you ordered you Monstaliner did you get the free quart of chassis saver? That's what I used to cover any metal/rust when I did the inside, it's really great stuff.

When you do your first coat of Monstaliner do it as thick as possible, even to the point that it starts running. Getting a thick first coat makes it easier to focus on getting a good texture on the second coat instead of worrying about getting coverage.
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Old 07-29-2011, 02:54 PM   #7
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Looking good so far! Your paint prep is awesome...LOL

And yes, the PlastiDip spray is holding up great on my grab handle. I'm thinking you can pull that off without removing the airbag cover. I think there's a couple screws on the bottom holding it (and the glove box latch and strap). If there's no screws, then there's just 2 nuts on the inside where the handle butts up against the dash. I think they're 10mm, but don't quote me on that. They're really easy to access, just gotta wrench on em backwards so it's a tad awkward. Well actually you'll need a socket cuz they're kinda recessed. If you reach up there you'll feel em.

I'd recommend removing the handle, stripping the paint off it all, and then spraying the PlastiDip on it...it may work fine without but since the paint isn't properly drying, you could end up with adhesion problems. I only stripped the paint off the handle itself...not the plastic of the piece it's attached to. That was perfectly dry so I just painted right over it.

Anyway, can't wait to see the end result...bet you'll be amazed!
Thanks for the encouragement... I need it! I knew this was going to be a bit of a project, but can't wait until I'm done. Humidity today must be about 91% in 90 degree temp.

I realized I messed up by painting that handle. I read the other thread and thought people were referring to the door handles when they talked about the "rubbery handle."

What did you strip the paint off with? Just everyday paint stripper?
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Old 07-29-2011, 03:01 PM   #8
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Also be aware Monstaliner cures with moisture. If you're seeing 90% humidity and high heat, time in between the 1st and 2nd coat is going to be VERY short. Hell, here in Colorado when I did mine it was maybe 40% humidity (abnormally high) and the stuff was drying fast.
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Old 07-29-2011, 03:07 PM   #9
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When you ordered you Monstaliner did you get the free quart of chassis saver? That's what I used to cover any metal/rust when I did the inside, it's really great stuff.
Yep. Took advantage of both codes. Free quart of chassis saver and free shipping. I ordered the black CS because I have a few spots on the chassis I was going to use a bit on. Monstaliner website said it did not recommend using the black CS as a base for the Monstaliner. Did you use black or one of the other colors?

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When you do your first coat of Monstaliner do it as thick as possible, even to the point that it starts running. Getting a thick first coat makes it easier to focus on getting a good texture on the second coat instead of worrying about getting coverage.
Thanks for the tip. I was actually leaning toward making sure I got everything covered in the first coat, but will follow what has worked. Also, I know they say not to, but I'd like to keep about a quart of the monstaliner and enough activator separate. I fear having the entire gallon turn on me in a day when I see a spot I missed (I always find something I missed).
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Old 07-29-2011, 03:09 PM   #10
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Also be aware Monstaliner cures with moisture. If you're seeing 90% humidity and high heat, time in between the 1st and 2nd coat is going to be VERY short. Hell, here in Colorado when I did mine it was maybe 40% humidity (abnormally high) and the stuff was drying fast.
Ruh Roh. You mean the Monstaliner in the pan or the can?
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Old 07-29-2011, 03:16 PM   #11
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Don't worry about the stuff in the can. It will get a bit thicker, but I found it being a bit thick helped create the texture. Plus if it's to thick for your liking you can add a bit of MEK to thin it out.

After I rolled my second coat, maybe 3 or 4 hours later, I went back over the whole tub looking for spots I missed. By that time a good film had formed in the can but I just pulled it out and it was fine to use. A small 1/2" brush from Home Depot helped the touch up process.

All I'm saying is the usual 4-5 hours between coats will shrink down to maybe 1.5-2 hours. Just periodically check it. The instructions that come with the kit are extremely comprehensive. They have even added a supplemental sheet for tips on doing the inside of Jeeps.

Have you found the thread on JeepForum? Eric can is also very helpful in answering questions.

Also make sure you go ALL the way up the trans tunnel and as close to the shifter as possible, don't want to find out you didn't paint up enough and the center console doesn't cover it.
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Old 07-29-2011, 04:21 PM   #12
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OK, thanks. Just finished painting the dash parts. Since it just started raining I'll install everything tomorrow, fix up some touch-up spots I came across in other places, and take a couple of pics when it's put back together.

Hopefully, my Monstaliner will be here Monday.
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Old 07-29-2011, 04:35 PM   #13
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Yep. Took advantage of both codes. Free quart of chassis saver and free shipping. I ordered the black CS because I have a few spots on the chassis I was going to use a bit on. Monstaliner website said it did not recommend using the black CS as a base for the Monstaliner. Did you use black or one of the other colors?
Missed this, I got the silver chassis saver, which is what everyone else was using under the Monstaliner. I don't know about the other CS colors though, that would a be a question for Eric.
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Old 07-30-2011, 02:08 AM   #14
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For stripping the grab handle...I dipped a scotch brite pad into Xylol and scrubbed it off. Didn't take much effort. Wear gloves made to handle stuff that harsh...I wore nitrile gloves that said they were for chemical handling and that Xylol ate right through them in about 30 seconds flat and instantly started chemical burning the sh!t out of my hands. You don't wanna go that route, trust me. lol
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Old 07-30-2011, 06:53 AM   #15
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brake cleaner will take the paint right off also. I just krylon sprayed my dash aslo looks great but paint adhered to handle awesome. Guess i got lucky
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Old 07-30-2011, 01:36 PM   #16
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brake cleaner will take the paint right off also. I just krylon sprayed my dash aslo looks great but paint adhered to handle awesome. Guess i got lucky
Yours isn't tacky at all? Yeah, you did get lucky...lol
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Old 07-30-2011, 04:44 PM   #17
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Take a sander to your tub but not to the bare metal. Heck you could just rent a sand blaster and use baking soda. No worry about pitting it. Just want everything off the paint including the wax. I did that stuff in my tub.
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Old 07-30-2011, 06:56 PM   #18
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I had some paint thinner in the basement and it took off the paint with no problem.

Unbelievable as it is, there isn't any Plasti-dip spray within 30 miles of me and I called every hardware store around. Even drove to one place 15 miles away that said they had it in black and all they had was blue in dip form. Idiots can't even check the shelves.

Part of the drawbacks to living in Hickville, though i do like the area. So the grab bar sits undone and I'm waiting for another online delivery.

Since I'm pretty well down to bare metal now in the feet well areas (after getting rid of the rust) I'll put a few coats of heavy primer before sanding so the Monstaliner has something to grab onto.

Still have the rest of the Jeep to prep.
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Old 07-30-2011, 07:09 PM   #19
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I had some paint thinner in the basement and it took off the paint with no problem.

Unbelievable as it is, there isn't any Plasti-dip spray within 30 miles of me and I called every hardware store around. Even drove to one place 15 miles away that said they had it in black and all they had was blue in dip form. Idiots can't even check the shelves.

Part of the drawbacks to living in Hickville, though i do like the area. So the grab bar sits undone and I'm waiting for another online delivery.

Since I'm pretty well down to bare metal now in the feet well areas (after getting rid of the rust) I'll put a few coats of heavy primer before sanding so the Monstaliner has something to grab onto.

Still have the rest of the Jeep to prep.
That's what Amazon is for. If you can buy mac 'n cheese on Amazon I'm sure they have Plasti-dip.
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Old 07-31-2011, 03:47 AM   #20
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That's what Amazon is for. If you can buy mac 'n cheese on Amazon I'm sure they have Plasti-dip.
LMAO...this is a great point...

For those without rust issues, all you need for proper adhesion is to scuff the gloss off the clear coat (just sand until it starts to look hazy) with the provided scotch brite pad...sanding it down any more than that won't hurt anything but it's overkill. If you have rust issues, it's best to sand down to bare metal, prime it good, and stop the rust before just covering it up and allowing it to continue eating away at the good metal if moisture is still in there.
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Old 07-31-2011, 03:10 PM   #21
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God, I hate this prep work, but it has to be done.

Spent the day washing (scrubbing) the inside. Amazing how much dirt, mud, and debris can accumulate in a '97 that never had everything removed from it. I got into every nook and cranny. I doubt it has been this clean since it left the factory.

That, of course exposed small rust issues that had to be addressed before they become big rust issues. Then I finished priming and removing the last plugs and bolts I didn't want covered with Monstaliner.

Now I'm finally ready to scuff up the shiny.

Speaking of scuffing, I came across this product (2nd pic) in Wally-mart. It cost 6 bucks and I figured to use it instead of MEK, as the fumes from MEK will make me ill. I tried a test patch and it does remove the shine. Claims on the bottle say better adhesion because it removes the wax and shine from paint.

Anyone ever tried this or a similar? Almost non-detectable smell, which works for me.
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Old 07-31-2011, 03:16 PM   #22
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I would scuff with the pad and then use that stuff...but it should be ok to use.

Herculiner specifically recommends scuffing with the pad and then taking a rag soaked with Xylol (xylene) and wiping down everything that's been scuffed. I've found it serves two good purposes...it removes all the dust from scuffing and cleans any residues off.
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Old 07-31-2011, 03:23 PM   #23
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I may still change my mind and use the Xylol. I'm not sure how this stuff will react (even the small residue) with the Monstaliner.
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Old 08-02-2011, 03:53 PM   #24
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Bummer... All dressed up and no place to go.

Looks like I'm delayed on finishing the Jeep until next week.

I've been waiting for my Monstaliner and finally ended up talking to Eric directly via the phone to find out about my shipment.

It was a pleasant conversation, but the bottom line is they got swamped with orders and ran out of material. They have to make another batch and then QC it before shipping.

Probably won't have it to my door until the middle of next week.

BTW, I did use the Xylol. Everything went fine with the proper gloves and I got a legal high as a side benefit.
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Old 08-02-2011, 04:31 PM   #25
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Good to hear they are doing so well business wise, but obviously sucks you have to wait.
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Old 08-02-2011, 04:52 PM   #26
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Yeah. Especially when I worked my ass off trying to beat the shipment arriving to me. I'll live.

I don't sweat the little stuff anymore. Maybe they'll throw me a roller or something.
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Old 08-03-2011, 09:38 PM   #27
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I painted my dash with three different types of black paint as I didn't like the tan interior in a black Jeep. I used Dupli-color interior paint for the center console, used Krylon semi-gloss "all surfaces" paint on most of the rest and then did the grab rail and the top piece near the windshield with Rustoleum truck bed liner paint. No stickiness here but got a couple of grumbles from my wife and kids on the bed liner paint being too rough but found the grit wears off in a few months and now I use Armorall on it so don't have any further complaints. I like the liner paint a lot and found it sticks to just about anything you spray it on.

Since the grab rail is rubber, sounds like you have a paint that chemically reacts to it, the bed liner paint didn't. I've also been told that interior trim paint won't be sticky either. Nice thing about the black - get a scratch or mess it up, shake, shake, shake, spray, spray, spray and it's as good as when I first painted it. The lid on my center console gets scratched frequently but a piece of cardboard as a spray barrier and I can touch it up in less than a minute! I think you'll enjoy it...
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Old 08-04-2011, 07:26 AM   #28
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It sounds like you're going about it really well and it should come out incredible. I took a strong hose to the interior to get the crud out of the nooks and crannies.

Before you apply the Monstaliner, WASH your Jeep's interior, dry it well (or let dry in the sun), then apply MEK to get any final residues off the metals.

Park under some shade if possible for the rest of this.

At that point, you can use the Chassis Saver to apply to the rusted areas (you did sand them a bit too right?). Once the Chassis Saver paint is getting really tacky (in about 2 hours when I did mine in May 2010 on a humid weekend), start with the Monstaliner.

Here's how mine looked after scuffing and MEK application:





Then with Chassis Saver applied in areas where I got to bare metal (oops) or had slight rust issues:



Then after Monstaliner application 1:



Notice you can see waviness. This is normal after the first coat. That coat was really to just line the tub. The 2nd thru X coats really build up the texture to have it look nice.

After about 4 coats on the floorboards:



Closeup of texture:


When you're done, try to set it sit a few days before putting the seats back in so the liner has a good chance to cure. I have another truck so I had mine sitting for a week to let it cure well. Since moisture helps it cure, I even used a mist sprayer I had lying around the house (for watering plants), that I'd apply in the morning before I left for work and in the evening when I got home. *shrug* I don't know how much it helped, but I'm VERY satisfied with my interior's results.

Be sure to post the pics when you're done.

Maybe I missed it, but what paint did you use on your dash? I'd love to go from green/black/spice to just green and black on the interior.
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Old 08-04-2011, 07:50 AM   #29
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Erickpl. What body armor is this? Looks like awesome protection.

MattD. Good luck on the Monstaliner, just ordered the raptorliner kit myself.
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Old 08-04-2011, 08:42 AM   #30
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Maybe I missed it, but what paint did you use on your dash? I'd love to go from green/black/spice to just green and black on the interior.
Yours looks great and your original thread, as well as another that got me determined to get mine done.

Everything I'm doing has been the slow way. Due to where I live and where I'm parked (no driveway and no parking on my side of street) I'm a few doors down in a hillside cutout. I don't have access to a hose or electric. Everything has been by hand and carrying buckets of water for rinsing rags, etc. Due to the limited space I can't remove and store the hardtop, as I'd prefer to do the top edge of the tub where the top rests, but that will have to be done in the future.

I used Krylon Fusion for the dash, but I'm not sure how it's going to hold up to knicks and scratching. It says it adheres to plastic, but I don't know about the material the dash is made of - especially the hard plastic like the center console. After putting some panels back in I noticed a few scratch marks that took off the paint. Easy enough to give it a quick touch up squirt, but was disappointed it came off so easily considering I cleaned every part thoroughly to remove Armorall, dirt, and other residue. Maybe I didn't give it enough time to cure? Don't know... maybe I should have mildly scuffed those surfaces, as well.

I ordered the gloss black chassis saver and will be hitting the rust spots before painting (even though I already treated them pretty well. Talked to Eric on the phone and the only problem black chassis saver is the satin. Seems the additive to give it a satin look doesn't play well with the Monstaliner. Other blacks are fine to use, just not recommended due to the possibility of missing spots while putting on black Monstaliner because of the lack of contrasting colors.

Questions for you:
You got 4 coats from 1 gallon? I'm hoping for 4, but will be happy if I can get 2 and have enough time to really get into every nook and cranny with a brush.

Did you use regular bristle brushes? I bought 4 cheapie neoprenes, but now I'm wondering if they'll hold up after dipping into the Monstaliner.

I've gotten pretty anal during the wait time for the Monstaliner to arrive. Wire brushed and repainted all the screw heads and for those that will go back in the cargo area I'm spraying Plasti-dip on the heads of those.

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